The Fjords of Norway

July 31 - August 7

On a week long trip from Bergen to Trondheim I expected to be blown away by Norway's scenery, but the scale of grandeur still came as a surprise.

It all began in Bergen - a city whose charm is definitely not overrated. I mean just look at this photo taken from Mount Fløyen. Yup! Quite a stunner! We spent a packed day checking off as many "must do's" as possible. Stepping out of our hotel we gawped at the iconic row of old colorful wooden houses. We squeezed through the narrow wooden alleyways for a glance of the past, awed by the beamed structures almost leaning against each other. At the bustling harbor we absorbed the lively vibe of the fish market, cringing at the crabs and oysters, as we headed for the produce stand, where we grabbed a punnet of glossy cherries for lunch later.

As we headed out to the Kode Museums across a huge lake in the city center, we took a moment to admire and photograph the powerful fountain in the middle. A guided tour of the museum's decent collection of Edvard Munch's paintings helped us better understand the symbolism and depiction of progressive ideas, especially feminism, in his works. We learned about 2 other significant Norwegian painters - Nikolai Astrup and J.C. Dahl - and greatly enjoyed their vibrant landscapes. A substantial collection of European art at these museums gobbled up a chunk of our day.

Next we rode the funicular up to Mount Fløyen. The panorama below us was our introduction to the fjord geography we came to Norway to see. It felt like the start of a Mahler symphony. We found a spot to best enjoy the sublime vista, and munched our cherries (sweet, juicy) - smugly. The swarm of tourists around us seemed more focused on snapping selfies!
In the evening, after a very acceptable pizza at Peppe's Pizza beside the wharf, we headed up a cobbled lane to Korskirken where a cellist and a pianist performed Edvard Grieg's Sonata in A minor and a selection of other pieces. What better way to enjoy the beauty of Grieg's music than in his home country in the intimate setting of an old church! As we ambled back to the hotel after the concert it was still broad daylight at 10:00. This was the furthest north I'd ever been, and I'd be going further and further north each day that week. We couldn't imagine going to bed, so we hiked over to Bergen Castle, which was just past our hotel, close to where the fjord merged into the Atlantic. The park like grounds were great for a stroll. We circled the attractive 16th century Rosenkrantz Tower, then headed over to some ruins for better views of the islands, and the deep curves of this fascinating coastline. We gawked at the postcard scenery in front of us, and shook our heads, and smiled. This was a prelude of what was to follow in the next days ...

Coffee, scrambled eggs, toast, and yummy jams from an immense buffet breakfast spread the next morning at the Radisson Blu, our hotel, fueled us for our road trip adventure. On to our first National Tourist Route, the E16 to Hardangerfjord. Almost immediately we were driving through tunnels. A vertical landscape of green forests emerged. The Mahler symphony entering a crescendo in its first movement... Every so often a waterfall from high up came into view. Soon we were driving along the fjord heading inland. All city signs had disappeared, and instead a wild world encircled us. At some points the road ascended and we drove along a shelf with the fjord below us.

At the end of the fjord, deep inland, we arrived in Granvin, our destination for the night. We stayed in a historic 300 year old building - the Jaunsen Gjestgjevarstad Guesthouse - managed by a jovial Italian couple. In the afternoon we strolled through the tranquil hamlet which sits snugly between green mountains and the fjord. A robust stream sliced through town providing a natural sound track for added assurance that we were truly in the wilderness. Yellow and blue wildflowers brightened up the fjord banks. In the distance sunlight reflected from patches of snow on rounded mountain tops. We followed a stream flanked by thick moss and healthy ferns until we came to a gentle waterfall spilling onto a bed of rocks. The vegetation around it was so dense that it was almost hidden. I breathed in the moist air. It had a sweet, utterly pure smell. Later, at our guest house, we dined on so-so pasta with pesto. Excellent desserts though - lemon panna cotta and marzipan cake.

After a peaceful sleep, we breakfasted on healthy homemade bread and jams before hitting the road for our next adventure. The drive toward the town of Voss started out with pleasant mountain scenery opening up to fruit orchards.

Driving away from the fjord, the scenery turned increasingly dramatic. The mountains rose higher and bigger waterfalls came into view. Then, a gigantic waterfall cascading down into an absurdly green valley, compelled a stop. We got out of the car and tried to get as close as possible to the famous Tvindevossen Waterfall.

Continuing the drive, we arrived in the Naeroy Valley, a landscape evocative of Yosemite Valley.
Granite monoliths towered above us, and down below raging white water rapids dominated the soundscape. We stopped near the 3000 foot dome of granite called the Jordalsnuten or Sugarlump. A brief hike along the gushing stream, gulping in pure air, then, utterly invigorated, we were back on the E16 toward Sogne. A few hairpin bends later, we entered the famous Gudvanga Tunnel - 7.1 miles long and the second longest in Norway. What humans are capable of! Exiting the tunnel we gasped at the mountainous landscape that appeared. Then we were back in another tunnel, and another, and another, until we arrived in Aurland. This little village lay at the tip of a Sognefjord finger. Here, we lunched on bread, cheese, and strawberries at a picnic table with a view of the stunning fjord surrounded by walls of mountains.
After lunch we got on the Snow Road to Lærdal.

As we climbed up from Aurland the vistas were a constant thrill. First, watching the town, at the foot of giant mountains, dwindling in the distance. Then, the fjord, descending below us, and curving around steep cliffs. Then, came the famous Stegastein Viewpoint. We stopped here and walked to the end of the laminated timber and steel structure, 640 meters above the fjord, for more gasp inducing views. Everyone agreed that Slartibartfast deserved his award! Across the road, we hiked up for more views.

Continuing our drive on the "Snow Road" we wound around steep bends as the ascending road narrowed. Higher and higher, the forests disappeared, and the landscape took on a harsher appearance. Soon snowbanks that were higher than us straddled the road. At the highest point, 1,300 meter altitude, we parked the car, donned our winter coats, and braved the chilly bluster. There was certainly a romance in the experience of standing on snow covered ground and gazing out at the misty undulating mountain scenery. Back in the car we began our descent. The forests returned, sheep grazed on grassy banks, and the snow capped mountains receded above us. From Lærdal we crossed a few bridges (watching for trolls) across Sognefjord as we headed for Fjærland. Now the mountains were even higher, and snowier. And to crown it all, we now could see glaciers.

In Fjærland we stayed at the Fjærland Fjordstue Hotel, a wooden structure with lots of charm, situated right beside the fjord. From our room we had a perfect view of a glacier through one window, and the clear, greenish hued water of the fjord from the other window. Despite the town being really small, we were surprised at the large number of activities to do here. We'd imagined after a rest we'd sit on the terrace with a gin and tonic and soak up the beauty around us. But we couldn't resist the nearby hiking trails into the forests. For dinner we feasted on the hotel's topnotch 3 course meal in their elegant dining room with formal service. We had a green salad with marinated Belgian endive for starters, and a goat cheese vegetable pie for mains. The dessert of rhubarb cake with berry and juniper infused ice-cream appropriately concluded a day of constant treats.

The next morning as we were leaving, the owner recommended a stop at Lustrabui Bakery. So, after an aborted attempt to drive to a glacier trail, we stopped at Norway's most famous bakery for the country's specialty - cinnamon swirls. Definitely worth it! Returning on another National Tourist Route - Sognefjellet - we began our ascent up our second mountain pass. Today's destination: Geiranger.

We stopped at the summit - 1,434 meters high - to take in the stark landscape. Gazing at the large expanses of snow in midsummer, I pictured a pristine, silent winter world unavailable for human appreciation. This was Northern Europe's highest mountain pass. Moving on, the road widened and descended sharply. Then came a stretch of hairpin bends from Jolster to Stryn. Now we were in a landscape of sparkling lakes, snowy peaks, and plunging waterfalls. Near Geiranger we were back on narrow, winding roads. Several tour coaches ferrying cruise passengers, were also on the road. Not pleasant! We stopped at a lake for close-ups of icebergs.

 In Geiranger we stayed at the very luxurious Union Hotel which stood above a mighty waterfall. Jaw dropping views greeted us from every window, inducing the obvious conclusion that this was the queen of Norway's fjords. It was also a popular cruise ship destination. We relaxed in the hotel's outdoor hot tub, soaking up the dreamy landscape around us. In the evening we went down to the busy harbor for a pizza dinner with killer views. It was the walk back to the hotel, however, that was the main event of the evening. We climbed up a long, long flight of stairs built alongside a raging waterfall. The staggering force of the water close up, its pandemonium drowning out all other sounds, conjured up images of ruthless gods unleashing their wrath. Wow! Another climactic end to our day.

The next morning we went on the famous Geiranger - Hellesylt ferry cruise. This section of the fjord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the ferry was full of tourists as well as a National Geographic tour group. The one hour cruise gave us a different perspective of fjord scenery. From the water we gaped at the sheer cliffs and the many waterfalls flowing in long, long vertical rivers into the fjord. If each of our previous fjord experiences could be compared to sampling increasingly finer French champagne, then this surely had to be the Dom Perignon of them all. Each exquisite drop delighting the senses, every new frame keeping us mesmerized. A full frontal of the famous Seven Sisters Waterfall created quite a bustle as everyone frantically tried to capture the best shots with their various cameras. After an hour of sensory saturation, we were back on the road heading north. The scenery now went into a decrescendo. Two more ferry rides later, with a lunch stop (which included ice-cream and strawberries) and a hike through bog land in between, we arrived in sedate Molde.

In Molde we had to make the figurative adjustment to good Prosecco from vintage champagne. Here, the mountains teased from a distance, the fjord looked like a bay, and the town was laid-back. Our modest hotel had the one redeeming feature of being beside the harbor, providing enjoyable views from our room. After an okay Mexican meal at the hotel restaurant, we wandered through the quiet town into a pleasant park. We saw farmhouses with a thick layer of grass and weeds on their roofs for winter insulation. Long, long days this far north made evening walks utterly delightful. Later, the 4 of us sipped whiskey in the hotel room and gazed out at the fjord - a flat sheet of blue tinged glass. Then, the water creased into wide ripples as the Hurtigruten docked. We watched passengers alight, wondering if they had arrived from the remote Lofoten Islands. After the ferry left, a cruise ship pulled in, totally blocking our view. Thankfully it left a short while later and the fjord panorama opened up again. Across the water snowcapped peaks glistened as the sun lowered into the horizon. Hours earlier we had been at the foot of those mountains.
In the morning, before leaving Molde, we drove up to the Varden Viewpoint from where we had the most breathtaking views of Moldefjord and the range of jagged peaks framing it.

 On the Atlantic Road to Trondheim the land opened up for ocean views. This scenic drive took us over a series of bridges linking islands. We stopped just past the famous bridge that arches across a bay, and walked along a viewing platform. A combination of photogenic bridge and natural beauty from weatherbeaten crags and open ocean exposed us to completely different scenery than we'd seen in previous days.

Trondheim, a proper built up city with significant traffic, jolted our senses. This university town, smaller than Bergen, was a really fun place to knock us back into the real world. We wandered into the Old Town, past historic wooden houses, then over to the main square, then crossed the Old Bridge - "The Portal of Joy" - as we made our way to the town's main attraction, the Nidaros Cathedral. This 11th century gothic cathedral, built on the tomb of St. Olav, was similar in awesomeness to most cathedrals of its ilk. So we sat across from it and squinted at the gargoyles and the intricate carvings, then moved on. A pleasant walk along the harbor and back to The Clarion, our very fine hotel.
On our first night at the Clarion, unable to resist the sublime fjord and ocean views (blame it on inertia!) from the top floor restaurant, we splurged on G&Ts, which we enjoyed on the terrace, followed by a gourmet meal in their posh restaurant.
We spent our last evening at a lively pub by the river, sipping local craft beer. Our view of the Old Bridge and traditional Norwegian architecture along a pretty river, though not stupendous, suited our low-key mood. The Mahler symphony was now in its final moments of the last movement. Softer notes, andante.

Some Final Thoughts about Norway:

1. Everything here was eye-wateringly expensive. At restaurants, meals were easily double what we pay back home. To preserve sanity we didn't look at prices.

2. The vegetarian food scene was dismal. Ate a lot of pizza. Berries and cherries in season, but not much other fruit to be seem. Very few types of vegetables at markets.

3. All hotels provided enormous buffet breakfasts. I was completely blown away by the variety of fresh baked rustic breads and homemade jams. Of course, the other usual stuff like cheeses, meats, eggs, pancakes, fruit, cereals, yogurts, etc. were always around too.

4. Loved the long daylight hours with sunset close to 11:00 P.M.

5. The weather was mostly mild during that first week in August. Sometimes it got chilly enough for a coat, but it was never uncomfortable. It rained briefly almost everyday.
6. When we arrived at some places, e.g. Fjærland, we realized we needed more than a day to avoid disappointment. It should have been a longer trip.