Berlin Diary (Oct 27 - 30)

October 30  Winter is coming! This morning I braved a bracing chill to get bread from the bakery around the corner. Last night we donned hat, scarf, and gloves before trotting off to the opera. A storm system had drenched the city and at 5:30, the Halloween displays we walked past on Wilmersdorfer Strasse brightened up the dreariness from storm debris and the pitch darkness. Yup! The clocks are back on standard time.


German audiences show their passion for opera by prolonged enthusiastic applause after the performance. Nobody rushes to the exits when the curtains come down. The performers take several bows before the lights are turned back on. Verdi's biblical epic Nabucco, showcased fine singing and intriguing staging. This opera tells the story of the defeat and exile of the Hebrews by the Babylonians under King Nabucco. A love triangle in which his two daughters compete for the Hebrew soldier, Ishmael, is treated as a minor subplot. This Keith Warner production made extensive use of symbolism and imagery and combined settings and costumes from different eras. Abigail, the older daughter, wore a high powered business suit, while the other Babylonians wore long dresses from a past century. Props from both present and past, bland colors, nooses dropping at the end .... ? What did it all mean? The oppression of which cultural or religious group is evoked? A deep, intense performance. And Verdi's score and all the arias and the chorus - sombre, sublime, penetrating.
The unusually warm, friendly middle aged gentleman sitting next to me, was very moved. He shook his head slowly at the end and said he just watched the orchestra the whole time, focussing only on the powerful music. We were in a box above the stage with excellent views of both the performers and the orchestra. A truly satisfying ending to a weekend of indulgences.


It started on Friday evening with fine dining at Joyne's Kitchen, just a 2 minute walk from our apartment. The elegant table settings through the window always looked alluring whenever we walked past, so a visit to this small, classy restaurant was long overdue.

The main course of risotto with chanterelles and a white autumn truffle was indisputably the product of a skilled chef. Great teamwork by the chef, from New Zealand, and his German wife to ensure perfection. A well curated wine list, meticulous presentation, careful attention to quality, and a menu that changes according to seasonal availability.
For starters I had grilled pumpkin slices served with roasted pumpkin seeds. Daryl had a mushroom terrine served with a silky savory mousse.

Another weekend highlight was catching up with Julia, Fabian and Max, who arrived from Sydney earlier in the week. The tail end of a yucky storm gave us cold, rainy, unpleasant weather so we were stuck indoors. Brunch seemed like a good idea and the Haus of 100 Beers around the corner with its spread of breads, cheeses, eggs, and other uninspiring, typically German items took care of hunger pangs. Mainly, we were happy to spend time together.