Sydney Diary - October 2019

Spring in the City

The  switch to Daylight Saving Time on the first Saturday of the month marked the start of spring. Mild temperatures, comfortable, though still chilly enough for sweaters lingered until days ago when the thermometer shot up. Now we're in sandals and at night even a light comforter gets kicked off.

Sydney now has that familiarity where it feels like home. And at times I wish it were home. This easy, livable city is clean, safe, orderly, dynamic and relatively crime free. It has an efficient mass transit system. It's cosmopolitan and sophisticated with no shortage of decent entertainment and an exciting multinational gastronomy scene. On top of all that it is blessed with a generous helping of natural beauty due to its harbor setting. We're so lucky to be able to drink in harbor views right from our apartment. Often, in the evening we glimpse a cruise ship drifting out of the harbor.

Sydney at night

While this antipodean city feels so familiar we've barely scratched its surface. I still discover new stores, bakeries, bars, etc. in my neighborhood. And so we're assured of never getting bored or tired during our time here.

Cousins

At various times this month I spent time with relatives I'd known during my South African childhood but rarely saw in adulthood. My cousins Silvie and Ray emigrated with their families to Sydney in the early '90's. Silvie hosted a birthday party for her sister Letchie, who was visiting from South Africa. Daryl and I took a train to the home of Silvie and Dan in Minchinbury, an outer west suburb. We spent a fun, fun evening with three siblings and their families. We danced and sang to music from the '70's. Music we'd grown up with, the lyrics locked in our memories. Bollywood hits featured too.

Photo pose before Letchie blows out candle

That was one delicious birthday cake layered with fresh mango slices, passionfruit pulp and fresh cream.

Nelson Bay

Two weeks later (Oct 21 - 24) I joined my 3 cousins (and their spouses) on a trip to Nelson Bay on the Port Stephens harbor. We stayed in an Airbnb vacation rental - a huge house, fully equipped - in a quiet neighborhood above the town center. The quiet, laid-back town was full of hotels, restaurants, and beach and water activities eagerly awaiting Sydney-siders seeking escape. Everyday I strolled along the paved walking/cycling track - a former bridle way - that hugged the coastline. It was a beautiful walk with views of little bays, bleached, powdery beaches, and eucalyptus woods. Once I saw a flock of black swans which looked stunning against the turquoise water.

Black swans and picturesque beaches in Nelson Bay

Birdlife out here is quite a phenomenon. Sea gulls and pelicans close to the water. And at the vacation rental my sleep broke every morning to bird sounds. Not quite a chorus - more like an orchestra warming up before a symphony performance. When I opened the blinds I'd see a kookaburra on the telephone wire. Colorful lorikeets fluttering on branches of a tree. Crested pigeons perched on a tree. Sulphur crested cockatoos darting into and out of another tree. Mynahs flitting about. And irate magpies shouting at the world.

Evenings with the cousins and their spouses were highly entertaining and relaxing. The guys went out on (unsuccessful) fishing expeditions during the day. When they returned we'd sit around the dining table with drinks and nibbles, and when darkness fell progressed to big dinners. Biryani, pungent vegetable curries and rotis - all prepared in advance in Sydney to free up time on this vacation. Conversations were lively, often pivoting to the past. The colorful days of childhood and youth in South Africa. Apartheid South Africa. We reminisced about our grandparents, laughing uproariously at their quirks. We all shared memories of Wesselsnek, the coal mining village where our grandparents raised our mothers. We sang songs from our childhood, including Tamil songs, the fragments we could dredge up.

We ended our time together with a boat tour to see bottlenose dolphins. It was a blissful two hours of gazing at clear, turquoise water, rich with marine life.

Bottle nose dolphins in Port Stephens

The dolphins put on a magnificent show for us, providing excellent photo opportunities. Beautiful images to bring to an end a memorable mini vacation in Nelson Bay.

Sunday Coastal Walks

Daryl and I continued our Sunday tradition of packing a picnic lunch and hopping on a ferry to a coastal suburb to pick up a walking trail. Our top favorite walk so far was the one we did on the first October Sunday. It almost counted as a bush walk since the trail got us into eucalyptus forests and fern meadows.

Gum tree woods and fern meadows on the hike to Balmoral Beach

He watches us eat our lunch

From Taronga Zoo on the north shore we headed to Athol Bay to begin the 6.5 km hike. The trail followed the coast, providing delightful views across to the Sydney skyline and the Harbor Bridge. Then when we entered the bush, nature sounds and scents drowned out the city. A discordant but uplifting symphony of birdsong interrupted by the familiar "laughter" of kookaburras. It was a three day weekend and a good proportion of the locals were on the trail too. Small, hidden beaches along the walk were a draw judging by how populated they were. At times we were sandwiched between scrawny gum trees and shrubbery adorned with fragrant spring blooms.







The cackling families of kookaburras on gum trees were tricky to photograph. Then, at a beachside park while we munched our sandwiches, a lone kookaburra was perched above us on the telephone wire.

The trail continued to Bradley's head, an interesting spot with military monuments and panoramic views of north and south heads and city skyline.

North Head and South Head of Port Jackson (Sydney Harbor)

Beyond Bradley's head we entered more bush, interrupted by little bays and secluded beaches. Conveniently benches all along the way allowed for rests in scenic spots. The trail ended at bustling Balmoral Beach, a built up area with a wide, paved promenade and a cluster of cafes and shops. Lots of shade on this beach thanks to a row of giant Moreton fig trees, including the biggest one I'd ever seen.

The biggest Moreton Bay Fig tree I've ever seen!

Another satisfying Sunday walk was the 5km Federation Cliff Trail starting at Dover Heights. It was another cloudless spring day when we ferried over to Watsons Bay for this walk. First we followed the South Head loop to Hornby Lighthouse. Directly across from us we took in stunning views of north head. The views of the city skyline and the Bridge were also terrific. No wonder there were so many coach tour groups out there.
The heat was building up as we headed to Gap Park, onto Old South Coast Road and then to a timber walkway above a series of sheer cliffs. Magical. Blue and green hues of the ocean. Frenetic surf lashing sandstone cliff walls. Rock layers depicting thousands of years of geologic history.

Federation Cliff Trail

Leaving behind the tour groups we arrived in Vaucluse, a neighborhood of palatial homes. Now we had to do some steep climbing in unshaded heat. My energy fizzled. Our goal of ending at Bondi Beach felt absurdly ambitious. The pool back home beckoned.

Fish engraving in sandstone from a thousand years ago

When we awoke to mild weather on the Sunday before Halloween we came up with the bold plan of doing the entire Manly Scenic Walk all the way to the spit. But Manly turned out to be summery hot. Though we were constantly immersed in the beautiful scenery for which the walk is famous, the heat diluted our enjoyment. At Dobroyd Head the views were especially thrilling. Now that we had hiked much of the coastal track we understood the area's geography. At Grotto Point we took a look at the Aboriginal rock engravings of fish dating back a thousand years.

Beyond that we detoured through bush to the Grotto Point lighthouse. I was terrified of encountering native fauna on the narrow trail. But the view of an inlet in the harbor was worth it and our avocado sandwiches tasted like gourmet fare. We didn't make it all the way to the spit this time.

The Culinary Scene

This city is paradise for the epicure. At William Blue Dining, a culinary school near our apartment building, we lapped up a delicious 3 course meal.

Spring has sprung, say those veggies! First course at William Blue Dining

Spring veggies with poached egg; risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and parmesan; panna cotta and dark chocolate mousse for dessert. The bottle of Shiraz we selected was light and pleasant and we actually finished the entire bottle. While the chefs appeared ready for the world of discerning diners, our waitress, a brand new student, seemed visibly nervous. She came to take our order before bringing us the menus! This was a training establishment after all!

On a recent Saturday evening the vegan menu of Alibi Restaurant lured us to Woolloomooloo, on the other side of the Royal Botanical Gardens. At 6:00 PM the park was utterly magnificent for a stroll. What an incredible variety of majestic trees! Arriving at the Ovolo Hotel my heart sank when I realized that the restaurant was tucked within a converted shed like structure. No windows looking out to the water surrounding the building. Sure, the décor was elegant, but it felt more suitable for a chilly winter night. We chose the 8 course tasting menu because the Asian thrust made everything sound divine. First came a slice of house made sourdough bread - warm and delicious with an almond coconut cream spread. Then things slid downhill. Earnest attempts at adventurous flavors were evident - the stuffed pillows featured horseradish and miso - but stodgy textures were the issue. A chargrilled broccoli topped with satay sauce for a main course would've appealed more had we not been stuffed when it arrived. The wine pairing disappointed too, but thankfully two inventive desserts redeemed the meal. A vegan banoffee pie and a fruity suspension in a jelly like cube tasted heavenly.

A meal we adored and badly want to repeat was one we had at Malabar South Indian Restaurant in Darlinghurst. It was Diwali and we hoped for a festive atmosphere. But, apart from a separate Diwali Specials menu, there was no other sign of this major Hindu holiday. When we tasted the samosa starter, a baked filo triangle stuffed with greens, it was clear that a talented chef was in charge. Vegan butter chicken along with baby okra displayed big flavors and pleasant textures. Judging from the packed, atmospheric interior, this restaurant had earned quite a reputation. A 30 minute walk back home was just what we needed after stuffing our bellies. As we cut through Hyde Park we came upon many costumed people in party mood. Both Halloween and Oktoberfest were observed in a big way.

Happy hour is a biggie in Sydney. $5 wine and beer offered everywhere. The Munich bar at the bottom of our street has excellent beer which we enjoyed a few times in an Oktoberfest atmosphere. Friday evenings at Barangaroo are great for party atmosphere and views. And opposite our building the Italian restaurant Rosetta serves delicious woodfired pizzas and decent beer and wine at half price on their terrace. We met up there with our Santa Barbara friends, Ken and Janis, who were in town in early October. However, the music they played to usher in a 3 day weekend made conversation impossible. We got together with Ken and Janis again at an Indonesian restaurant, Salt and Palm, on Glebe Point Road right next to their Airbnb. Here, we sampled traditional rice platters with accompaniments of peanuts, tempeh, and chillies washed down with orange gin and tonic. Ken and Janis were flying the next morning to Cairns for adventures in the Daintree Forest and the Great Barrier Reef.

The best meal of the month would have to be the one we had with Stephan and Brangwyn at their home in Randwick, near Coogee Beach. A beet dip with pita wafers to start. And for mains, stuffed zucchini and savory rice topped with pomegranate seeds straight out of an Ottolenghi cookbook. Dessert was strawberry crumble. Stephan and Brangwyn have a passion for gourmet cooking. But it wasn't just the food that made the evening special. We love this family. Their sons Jasper and Fabian provided pre-dinner entertainment. Fabian got out his magic set and performed some tricks. Jasper showed off his math knowledge, especially his special interest in Pi. After they turned in, our adult conversation hit a variety of interesting topics.

Entertainment

We are definitely taking advantage of the city's many entertainment options, especially because the venues are an easy walk from us. We saw the movie 'The Eulogy' a fascinating documentary about Geoffrey Tozer, an Australian pianist. It examined why the Sydney and Melbourne Symphony Orchestras shunned him. Internal politics? A tormented soul, pampered and idolized by his mother, a music teacher. A prior Australian prime minister, Paul Keating, in a eulogy lamented Tozer's unrecognized talent, and this was the impetus for the documentary.

We saw a hilarious live theatre production called The Wharf Revue at Roslyn Packer Theatre near Walsh Bay. This musical political satire was similar to the Capital Steps in the US. Major political events and figures were skewered in witty sketches. The digs at local politics were lost on us, but we learned more about Scott Morrison (ScoMo) and his conservative views. He ran on an anti immigration platform feeding into the current racist climate. He also believes that "god" has chosen him for the job. The Hamilton songs ridiculing Boris and Trump had us in stitches. There was a touching tribute to Bob Hawke, a respected Labor Party prime minister who died this year.
Aung San Suu Kyi appeared, defending her policies, as her humanitarian quotes  from her jail time flashed on the screen. Then to the tune of Don't Cry for me Argentina she justified the persecution of the Rohingya people. This part was a bit unsettling. All in all, a fantastic night of entertainment!

At the Sydney Opera House we enjoyed an evening of Bruckner's Symphony 7 conducted by Donald Runnicles. Seated just a few rows from the stage we were able to fully appreciate this expansive piece (similar to a Mahler symphony).

Sydney Symphony taking curtain bows after Bruckner Symphony No 7

We returned to Sydney's iconic monument for the opera "Il Viaggio A Reims". We'd never heard of this Rossini work before, then we found out that it is rarely performed. In fact it had been composed in the mid 19th century for the coronation of a king and then disappeared, until the 1980's when it was reconstructed. The music was wonderful. The production creative. Farcical themes open up wide possibilities. The director set most of the opera in an art gallery. Characters from famous artwork come alive and walk across the stage. Lots of laughs and silliness. No plot to speak of.

Curtain bows for Il Viaggio A Reims

Appropriately, on this Halloween holiday, the actors were costumed! Not an opera I'll return to, but glad for the experience in the Joan Sutherland Theatre.

The end of October marked the halfway point of our time in Sydney.