Annual England Visit
(July 27 - Aug 13)
During our roughly two weeks in England, we car tripped from Cambridge to Glossop, up to the Lake District, down to Kenilworth, then to Yatton, and ended in London (via a tow truck!) The trip was characterized by drawn out meals with loved ones, invigorating rambles in bucolic countryside, and rain. Heavy downpours almost daily. Oh, and a temperamental rental car that intermittently lost power at inopportune moments.
Intermittent rain kept us indoors much of the weekend in Cambridge, but over leisurely home cooked meals (Jason's cauliflower cheese, Marie's mushroom tart) we did a whole lot of catching up with Jason, Marie, Luc and Kristal.
On Monday, our third day in Cambridge, we awoke to a cloudless sky. The outdoors dominated the day's agenda so we thanked the weather gods. While Daryl spent the day with Jason in Suffolk, I hooked up with Troy for a long hike. We hadn't seen each other since the Serengeti safari last year so we had much to yak about. We started at Byron's Pool (named after Lord Byron) and followed the trail to the utterly charming old village of Grantchester, returning to Cambridge along the River Cam. In a setting of verdant meadows, birdsong, swan families, punters and willow trees along the riverbank I felt incredibly uplifted. And eager for more nature walks in the next days and weeks.
Daryl and I were on a nature trail in the Pennines the next afternoon. In the morning we had driven up north from Cambridge into the high peaks of Derbyshire. At Langsett Reservoir we stopped for a pub lunch (a pie and pint of bitter). The moors that we could see from the garden table beckoned. We strapped on hiking boots and followed a trail that encircled the reservoir.
We entered a pine forest where the air was heavily scented and the ground cushioned with mulch. Closer to the water we were on an open field of heather and grasses. Then, as we entered another forested section we heard rumbles of thunder. When lightning streaked across the sky we hightailed it back toward the parking lot. By the time we emerged onto the main road, we felt the first drops of rain. We flew into the car and headed for the Woodhead Pass. Within minutes the storm fully erupted. Bright streaks of lightning, deafening thunder, and the Pennines hidden in mist forced us to wait out the storm at a pullout. Luck was definitely on our side. When Glynis and Mike saw us a short while later in Hadfield their relief was obvious.
Snug and safe at the dinner table, we sipped wine and savored a steamy vegetable casserole. Through the window walls of the conservatory where the dining area is set up we admired their well tended garden full of bright summer blooms. The moors of the high peaks were also in full view from their dining table.
Despite rainy weather in Hadfield our days were dominated by the outdoors. And in the evenings we submitted to being pampered by Glynis and Mike. Hearty home cooked fare, lots of wine, and to end, sweet Greek treats that they'd brought back from a recent trip.
Then there was a notable pub lunch after a morning on the Longdendale trail.
A leek, pea and asparagus risotto with a pint of ale is best enjoyed at a picnic table with expansive views of the moors. Especially after a few hours on a nature trail.
The Longdendale Trail, part of the Trans-Pennine multi day walk, deserves some description.
This 10 km mostly level stretch is a section of a former railway line that connected Manchester and Sheffield. We picked up the trail from Hadfield and within minutes we were in a landscape of lush undulating fields, ancient stone walls, the chain of reservoirs providing Manchester's water, overgrown blackberry brambles and even a waterfall. After three hours of immersion in this scenery an ale at a pub's picnic table tasted especially refreshing.
In contrast to the wild moors I had a day of city walking for a change. When I arrived at Manchester's Piccadilly Train Station my goal was to wander around the city, soaking up its summer vibe. I crossed over to the Piccadilly Gardens and for some bizarre reason took a photograph of the Queen Victoria Statue.
At lunch time Glynis and I noshed on tasty vegan burgers at the plant based restaurant called Vertigo in the striking Royal Exchange building. Alone in the afternoon I wandered past other significant buildings like the Manchester Cathedral, St. Anne's Church and the Art Gallery until the rain came down. I ducked in the Arndale Center where I hoped to find a sun hat for our trip to the Dolomites. Amazingly, despite the many sports shops in the center, and despite it being the peak of summer, a few unappealing baseball hats was all I could find! It was still raining when I headed back to the station. Aha, I thought, in this city there was no need for protection from the sun!
Here, we walked on the sandy beach and then onto a section of the Cumbrian Coast trail. On this wild, remote stretch we could've walked for hours. Of course it was rain that forced us back to the car.
On our last day in Cark, Clare accompanied Daryl and me on a walk to Cartmel two miles away. A footpath led us through dairy and sheep farms, into a shady forest, and then through rolling green meadows fringed by stone walls.
We'd already sampled Cartmel's famous sticky toffee pudding and were eager to finally to see this much hyped town. It turned out to be rather charming, with quaint stone buildings, a river flanked by bright gardens, and a lively food scene. We rested our weary legs at a courtyard table munching a sandwich and sampling a craft IPA. Before heading back on the trail we considered a sticky toffee pudding indulgence but opted for a fruit tart smothered in custard.
While exercise, fresh air, and nature defined our days in Cark, the evenings were dedicated to family time over drawn out meals lubricated by craft gin cocktails.
The highlight was the Big Family Dinner on our second day when various relatives who weren't staying at the Cark house drove up for a reunion. We were 3 generations gathered together, 19 in total, around the table in the back garden on a glorious sunny day, summer at its best. On the menu was homemade lasagna made by Troy, accompanied by a hefty salad. Gin, bubbly and wine flowed too freely.
Dessert had to be Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding. Every variety available and everyone gobbled up as much as their bodies could handle.
Intermittent rain kept us indoors much of the weekend in Cambridge, but over leisurely home cooked meals (Jason's cauliflower cheese, Marie's mushroom tart) we did a whole lot of catching up with Jason, Marie, Luc and Kristal.
On Monday, our third day in Cambridge, we awoke to a cloudless sky. The outdoors dominated the day's agenda so we thanked the weather gods. While Daryl spent the day with Jason in Suffolk, I hooked up with Troy for a long hike. We hadn't seen each other since the Serengeti safari last year so we had much to yak about. We started at Byron's Pool (named after Lord Byron) and followed the trail to the utterly charming old village of Grantchester, returning to Cambridge along the River Cam. In a setting of verdant meadows, birdsong, swan families, punters and willow trees along the riverbank I felt incredibly uplifted. And eager for more nature walks in the next days and weeks.
Daryl and I were on a nature trail in the Pennines the next afternoon. In the morning we had driven up north from Cambridge into the high peaks of Derbyshire. At Langsett Reservoir we stopped for a pub lunch (a pie and pint of bitter). The moors that we could see from the garden table beckoned. We strapped on hiking boots and followed a trail that encircled the reservoir.
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| Langsett Reservoir Trail |
Snug and safe at the dinner table, we sipped wine and savored a steamy vegetable casserole. Through the window walls of the conservatory where the dining area is set up we admired their well tended garden full of bright summer blooms. The moors of the high peaks were also in full view from their dining table.
Despite rainy weather in Hadfield our days were dominated by the outdoors. And in the evenings we submitted to being pampered by Glynis and Mike. Hearty home cooked fare, lots of wine, and to end, sweet Greek treats that they'd brought back from a recent trip.
Then there was a notable pub lunch after a morning on the Longdendale trail.
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| Lunch at the Dog and Partridge Pub |
The Longdendale Trail, part of the Trans-Pennine multi day walk, deserves some description.
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| On the Longdendale Trail |
In contrast to the wild moors I had a day of city walking for a change. When I arrived at Manchester's Piccadilly Train Station my goal was to wander around the city, soaking up its summer vibe. I crossed over to the Piccadilly Gardens and for some bizarre reason took a photograph of the Queen Victoria Statue.
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| Piccadilly Gardens, Manchester |
Lake District
Luckily we had a fair amount of dry weather further north. In the humble south Lake District town of Cark (overshadowed by neighboring Cartmel) family members converged for a few days of together time. As this part of England owes its popularity to its way above average natural beauty, daily hikes defined our days.
On our first morning we strolled on the promenade of Grange over Sands. Situated on an estuary, this peaceful coastal stretch, just a couple miles from our vacation rental, gave us a dose of the local geography.
On our first morning we strolled on the promenade of Grange over Sands. Situated on an estuary, this peaceful coastal stretch, just a couple miles from our vacation rental, gave us a dose of the local geography.
On another day we drove further out, to the town of Seascale on the Irish Sea coast.
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| Seascale |
On our last day in Cark, Clare accompanied Daryl and me on a walk to Cartmel two miles away. A footpath led us through dairy and sheep farms, into a shady forest, and then through rolling green meadows fringed by stone walls.
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| Scenery on trail connect Cark to Cartmel |
We'd already sampled Cartmel's famous sticky toffee pudding and were eager to finally to see this much hyped town. It turned out to be rather charming, with quaint stone buildings, a river flanked by bright gardens, and a lively food scene. We rested our weary legs at a courtyard table munching a sandwich and sampling a craft IPA. Before heading back on the trail we considered a sticky toffee pudding indulgence but opted for a fruit tart smothered in custard.
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| Cartmel seen from a distant high point on our walk back to Cark |
While exercise, fresh air, and nature defined our days in Cark, the evenings were dedicated to family time over drawn out meals lubricated by craft gin cocktails.
The highlight was the Big Family Dinner on our second day when various relatives who weren't staying at the Cark house drove up for a reunion. We were 3 generations gathered together, 19 in total, around the table in the back garden on a glorious sunny day, summer at its best. On the menu was homemade lasagna made by Troy, accompanied by a hefty salad. Gin, bubbly and wine flowed too freely.
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| Dinner Party, Cark |
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| Sticky Toffee Pudding anyone? |
It was a beautiful day and a satisfying meal. Despite the recently installed occupant at 10 Downing Street we were able to focus on topics that made us laugh and smile. The somberness and anxiety around Boris and Brexit was discernible everywhere in England, but we made a point of remembering what truly mattered. Family, love, good health, and doing whatever you can for others.
At the Ambleside Pier we had a quick lunch - a boring, cheese sandwich - then boarded a boat to Wray Castle. From there we strolled on a 4 mile lakeside trail to Ferry House.
There were sporadic bursts of showers, but with our rain repellent outerwear and umbrella we embraced the sweet moist air and soaked up the magnificent scenery for which this area is famous.
A short ferry ride then returned us to Bowness.
Time for afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel, a majestic building overlooking the lake.
Early Grey tea, finger sandwiches, an assortment of cakes and of course, fresh, warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam.
In Windemere we stayed in a cute but tiny garden "hut". Most of our time was taken up by walks - to the towns of Windmere and Bowness, as well as down to the lake along the shore.
When we parted with family Daryl and I drove up to Windemere for two more nights in the Lake District. At Bowness-on-Windemere we hopped on a boat headed for Ambleside. We were on England's largest lake, enjoying the lush meadows and forests hugging the periphery.
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| Lake Windemere |
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| Afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel |
There were sporadic bursts of showers, but with our rain repellent outerwear and umbrella we embraced the sweet moist air and soaked up the magnificent scenery for which this area is famous.
A short ferry ride then returned us to Bowness.
Time for afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel, a majestic building overlooking the lake.
Early Grey tea, finger sandwiches, an assortment of cakes and of course, fresh, warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam.
In Windemere we stayed in a cute but tiny garden "hut". Most of our time was taken up by walks - to the towns of Windmere and Bowness, as well as down to the lake along the shore.
Heading south from the Lake District more hearty, drawn out meals and country walks awaited.
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| Ploughman's Lunch at Hatton Locks Café |
We spent a glorious day with David and Rona on the towpath of the Hatton Locks section of the Grand Union Canal. We admired the 21 locks called the "stairway to heaven", picked blackberries, watched narrow canal boats, then sauntered to the café for lunch. Daryl went for the ploughman's lunch, one of the best we'd seen in recent years. Three types of strong cheeses and crusty bread. Yum!
The Epsteins love entertaining. Friends of theirs joined us for a hearty dinner featuring borscht made with homegrown beets. Lucky for us Julia came over from Oxford and we got a chance to catch up with her. Eight of us around the table covered a range of topics. I was pleased to chat with Ian Stewart about his books on math meant for a mainstream readership. I must add that I made the dessert. Summer pudding assembled from homegrown berries and currants, served with rich custard.
Another lingering meal awaited us the next day in Yatton. Saff's elaborate rice salad was the centerpiece of a big dinner gathering. It was so wonderful to see and catch up with Tom, Zoe, Denis, their partners, and Maddy. We'd seen Kathy and her baby earlier.
The walk we did in Yatton was a section of the Strawberry Line. This wide, traffic free path for cyclists and walkers connects several towns in Somerset County. What a fabulous concept! While Daryl and Saff paired up for some good catch up time, Gwen and I shared some quality time too.
Our Yatton visit ended with Sunday lunch in Portishead at The Windmill Inn. With Valerie, Saff and Gwen for company and a pleasing view of Bristol Channel and the Severn Bridge we gobbled up a vegetarian version of traditional (nut roast, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, mushroom gravy).
In London we enjoyed one more dinner gathering at the Self home in Wilsden Green. Gil went all out to prepare a feast, launched by bruschetta topped with roasted bell peppers, and followed by a main course of exquisite nut roast accompanied by a lentil squash casserole. Dom, Randy and Katie chatted about their recent travels. We exchanged Thailand experiences. We laughed about irritations of the expat in the UK. Gil shared with us her travel wishes. So many years of meeting up with this family in the same dining room. So grateful to continue the tradition.
After two beautiful weeks of visiting family and friends we left England for a holiday in the Italian Dolomites and two Austrian cities. For details stay tuned for Parts 2 and 3.
1 comment:
it sounds like a lovely trip! and it's so nice to see all the photographs. Very nice1
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