Summer Vacation 2019 - Part 3 - Innsbruck and Salzburg

Innsbruck

August 13 - 15

Nobody raves about Innsbruck. It's convenience to the Dolomites, our main focus, was the sole reason Daryl, Troy and I found ourselves in this unflashy city for two nights. But with its delightful setting in an emerald valley sliced by the River Inn, and overlooked by the splendid Austrian Alps our time here was pretty enjoyable. A heavy downpour on our arrival prevented us from absorbing the city's midsummer evening atmosphere so we compensated by treating ourselves to an evening of fine dining. Internet research led us to Sitzwohl Restaurant where we were pampered by stellar service and cuisine to delight the epicure. Notably, an exquisite chanterelle risotto for the main course. I found out later that it was a one Michelin Starred restaurant.

We awoke to a sunny morning. Perfect for exploring the Old Town on a self-guided walking tour. We headed first to the Botanical Gardens just a few minutes away from our Airbnb. The many majestic trees, like the Catalpa, were impressive.

Innsbruck lies in a valley surrounded by the Austrian Alps. From a bridge - the River Inn, tall, neo-Gothic architecture

We headed to the river, admired its size, the bridges, and the neo-gothic buildings lining its banks, then crossed over to an uninteresting neighborhood. We looped back to the old town across a pedestrian bridge and arrived at the market hall. Outside there were lively cafes and inside rows of stalls displayed summer produce, cheeses, olives, breads and other tempting stuff. So of course we gathered lunch supplies and marched back toward our Airbnb. En route through the Aldstadt I noticed a food truck displaying large mounds of healthy chanterelles. Two men were churning out risotto and crépes heaped with these earthy fungi and a long line of customers waited patiently. Naturally I had to grab a scoop of these cherished wild mushrooms which I could easily sauté at the Airbnb. What a feast our midday meal turned out to be!

The Nordkette Mountain Range reached by funicular and ski lift

Though Innsbruck is a city with a distinct urban vibe, escaping into the mountains from the center takes just minutes. A funicular zipped us up to a ski lift station and from there we hopped into a cable car which deposited us high above the city in the Austrian Alps. We had an invigorating walk up a trail and drank in stupendous mountain and valley views the whole time. An easy downhill trek returned us to town. This was our introduction to a week in the mountains.

Salzburg, Austria

After a week of hiking in the mountains we returned to an Austrian city. This time to the more exalted place of Mozart's birth (a fact drummed into the visitor at every opportunity).

They won't let you forget that Mozart was born in this city

Positive experiences characterized our time in Salzburg.

First there was our Airbnb on the third floor of a charming historic building. Owned by generations dating back a few centuries, the luxurious interior depicted the family's history. They had been antiques dealers and art collectors and relics provided character and fine touches to the very spacious and comfortable apartment.

Stepping out of the building we found ourselves in the heart of the Old Town. The annual Salzburg Music Festival was in full swing, creating a buzz all over the city.

Our first meal was a hit. The Green Garden, a tiny restaurant with pleasant outdoor seating, served inventive vegetarian global cuisine! Loved my tacos stuffed with flavorful vegetables. The local white wine we sampled was really good too. Unfortunately we didn't succeed in replicating tasty dinners the following two nights.


On a self-guided walking tour of the city the next day we meandered through cobbled lanes that led us to the main squares. After taking in the Baroque architecture of significant buildings we headed to the river and strolled along the bank. We then entered a forest, and then uphill to the Museum of Modern Art for views. Further up we reached the Hohensalzburg Fortress that watches over the city from a hilltop. We gazed at the panorama below, impressed again at the city's beauty derived from its location as well as its architecture. 

Salzburg's picturesque setting

Our self-guided tour continued the next day across the river to the commercial heart of the modern town. We did a lot of stair climbing to high points for different perspectives of the city. However, a sudden storm aborted our plans. We took shelter under the stone arches of a historic building and when the storm abated we crossed the vibrant Mirabelle Gardens to return to the Old Town.

Lucky to find shelter from that torrential downpour!

Mirabelle Gardens

On a visit to Salzburg you cannot and should not avoid Mozart Chocolate balls. Each day we sampled them from different retailers. They were all divine though we were told the authentic ones made with pistachio paste rather than marzipan were superior.

The highlight of our 3 day Salzburg visit was undoubtedly an evening at the concert hall. It had been a dream of mine to attend this prestigious music festival which attracts the world's top classical artists and symphonies. Though we were unable to get tickets for the opera Salomé, we were lucky to get tickets for Mahler's Symphony 5 conducted by Daniel Barenboim. 

At the Salzburg Festival Concert Hall

The tickets were a splurge. We joined the rich and elite for an evening of pure pleasure. Every second of this sublime symphony was joyful. An evening to treasure forever.

Salzburg is one of those cities I'd love to return to again and again.

Epilogue

Our return flight to London after three days in Salzburg was out of Munich in the evening. An efficient train ride zipped us to the Bavarian capital. We stored our luggage at the station and planned to spend the day ambling around the Aldstadt, taking in the major sights. But an oppressive heatwave narrowed our options down to a leisurely Sunday lunch. That's how we ended up at Prinz Myshkin, a top vegetarian restaurant with an international, especially Asian, slant. Crespelle al Forno (stuffed buckwheat crepes), baked zucchini blossoms, and a vegan burger worked well to distract us from the heat. We managed to catch Munich's monuments on our amble back to the station.

Mariensäule Marienplatz in Munich

In London the highlight would have to be Hamilton. Yes, we actually got to see this famous musical. So it wasn't the Broadway production, but the London cast was stellar. And the newly restored Victoria Palace Theatre was such a luxurious venue. Air-conditioned too, thank god(!) since London was brutally hot that day.

Our last evening of vacation was utterly beautiful. On the upstairs balcony of The Queens in Primrose Hill we caught up with  Gil, Tasha and Cormac over IPA and yummy share plates. At sunset we sauntered over to the park to take in London's skyline, a breathtaking view.

London skyline from Primrose Hill Park at sunset

With the air so balmy, and the company so delightful, there could not have been a better way to end a vacation.