Summer Vacation 2019 - Part 3 - Innsbruck and Salzburg

Innsbruck

August 13 - 15

Nobody raves about Innsbruck. It's convenience to the Dolomites, our main focus, was the sole reason Daryl, Troy and I found ourselves in this unflashy city for two nights. But with its delightful setting in an emerald valley sliced by the River Inn, and overlooked by the splendid Austrian Alps our time here was pretty enjoyable. A heavy downpour on our arrival prevented us from absorbing the city's midsummer evening atmosphere so we compensated by treating ourselves to an evening of fine dining. Internet research led us to Sitzwohl Restaurant where we were pampered by stellar service and cuisine to delight the epicure. Notably, an exquisite chanterelle risotto for the main course. I found out later that it was a one Michelin Starred restaurant.

We awoke to a sunny morning. Perfect for exploring the Old Town on a self-guided walking tour. We headed first to the Botanical Gardens just a few minutes away from our Airbnb. The many majestic trees, like the Catalpa, were impressive.

Innsbruck lies in a valley surrounded by the Austrian Alps. From a bridge - the River Inn, tall, neo-Gothic architecture

We headed to the river, admired its size, the bridges, and the neo-gothic buildings lining its banks, then crossed over to an uninteresting neighborhood. We looped back to the old town across a pedestrian bridge and arrived at the market hall. Outside there were lively cafes and inside rows of stalls displayed summer produce, cheeses, olives, breads and other tempting stuff. So of course we gathered lunch supplies and marched back toward our Airbnb. En route through the Aldstadt I noticed a food truck displaying large mounds of healthy chanterelles. Two men were churning out risotto and crépes heaped with these earthy fungi and a long line of customers waited patiently. Naturally I had to grab a scoop of these cherished wild mushrooms which I could easily sauté at the Airbnb. What a feast our midday meal turned out to be!

The Nordkette Mountain Range reached by funicular and ski lift

Though Innsbruck is a city with a distinct urban vibe, escaping into the mountains from the center takes just minutes. A funicular zipped us up to a ski lift station and from there we hopped into a cable car which deposited us high above the city in the Austrian Alps. We had an invigorating walk up a trail and drank in stupendous mountain and valley views the whole time. An easy downhill trek returned us to town. This was our introduction to a week in the mountains.

Salzburg, Austria

After a week of hiking in the mountains we returned to an Austrian city. This time to the more exalted place of Mozart's birth (a fact drummed into the visitor at every opportunity).

They won't let you forget that Mozart was born in this city

Positive experiences characterized our time in Salzburg.

First there was our Airbnb on the third floor of a charming historic building. Owned by generations dating back a few centuries, the luxurious interior depicted the family's history. They had been antiques dealers and art collectors and relics provided character and fine touches to the very spacious and comfortable apartment.

Stepping out of the building we found ourselves in the heart of the Old Town. The annual Salzburg Music Festival was in full swing, creating a buzz all over the city.

Our first meal was a hit. The Green Garden, a tiny restaurant with pleasant outdoor seating, served inventive vegetarian global cuisine! Loved my tacos stuffed with flavorful vegetables. The local white wine we sampled was really good too. Unfortunately we didn't succeed in replicating tasty dinners the following two nights.


On a self-guided walking tour of the city the next day we meandered through cobbled lanes that led us to the main squares. After taking in the Baroque architecture of significant buildings we headed to the river and strolled along the bank. We then entered a forest, and then uphill to the Museum of Modern Art for views. Further up we reached the Hohensalzburg Fortress that watches over the city from a hilltop. We gazed at the panorama below, impressed again at the city's beauty derived from its location as well as its architecture. 

Salzburg's picturesque setting

Our self-guided tour continued the next day across the river to the commercial heart of the modern town. We did a lot of stair climbing to high points for different perspectives of the city. However, a sudden storm aborted our plans. We took shelter under the stone arches of a historic building and when the storm abated we crossed the vibrant Mirabelle Gardens to return to the Old Town.

Lucky to find shelter from that torrential downpour!

Mirabelle Gardens

On a visit to Salzburg you cannot and should not avoid Mozart Chocolate balls. Each day we sampled them from different retailers. They were all divine though we were told the authentic ones made with pistachio paste rather than marzipan were superior.

The highlight of our 3 day Salzburg visit was undoubtedly an evening at the concert hall. It had been a dream of mine to attend this prestigious music festival which attracts the world's top classical artists and symphonies. Though we were unable to get tickets for the opera Salomé, we were lucky to get tickets for Mahler's Symphony 5 conducted by Daniel Barenboim. 

At the Salzburg Festival Concert Hall

The tickets were a splurge. We joined the rich and elite for an evening of pure pleasure. Every second of this sublime symphony was joyful. An evening to treasure forever.

Salzburg is one of those cities I'd love to return to again and again.

Epilogue

Our return flight to London after three days in Salzburg was out of Munich in the evening. An efficient train ride zipped us to the Bavarian capital. We stored our luggage at the station and planned to spend the day ambling around the Aldstadt, taking in the major sights. But an oppressive heatwave narrowed our options down to a leisurely Sunday lunch. That's how we ended up at Prinz Myshkin, a top vegetarian restaurant with an international, especially Asian, slant. Crespelle al Forno (stuffed buckwheat crepes), baked zucchini blossoms, and a vegan burger worked well to distract us from the heat. We managed to catch Munich's monuments on our amble back to the station.

Mariensäule Marienplatz in Munich

In London the highlight would have to be Hamilton. Yes, we actually got to see this famous musical. So it wasn't the Broadway production, but the London cast was stellar. And the newly restored Victoria Palace Theatre was such a luxurious venue. Air-conditioned too, thank god(!) since London was brutally hot that day.

Our last evening of vacation was utterly beautiful. On the upstairs balcony of The Queens in Primrose Hill we caught up with  Gil, Tasha and Cormac over IPA and yummy share plates. At sunset we sauntered over to the park to take in London's skyline, a breathtaking view.

London skyline from Primrose Hill Park at sunset

With the air so balmy, and the company so delightful, there could not have been a better way to end a vacation.

Summer Vacation 2019 - Part 2 - The Dolomites

A Week in the Mountains

August 15 - 22, 2019

Innsbruck was our gateway into the Dolomites. Troy, Daryl and I were in a rental car headed to a farm south of Brixen. An easy drive through alpine scenery. Just across the Austrian border we made a lunch stop in Vipiteno, a cute mountain village.

Vipitano

On this public holiday a band played upbeat music in the medieval town square. Outdoor restaurant tables buzzed with happy diners. We ambled over to the shopping stretch lined by colorful buildings, a stone clocktower at one end, mountain slopes at the other end. Though we were in Italy it was German we could hear, and Austrian staples featured on menus. Lunch in the atmospheric main square affirmed our vacation mode, but I regretted my choice of dumplings which were stodgy and tasteless. Daryl and Troy were quite happy with their soups.

Back on the autostrada we drove over the Brenner Pass, then past Brixen we exited onto a narrow road that ascended into the mountains to the village of Latzfons. We spent four nights in a chalet like apartment at Agriturismo Gosthof, a working dairy farm in the Sarntal Alps. A tranquil, remote, breathtaking setting. 

From our balcony we see these Dolomites Peaks

The balcony instantly became our favorite part of the apartment. On our first evening we witnessed the full lifespan of an electric storm. We were sipping schnapps after a pasta dinner, gazing at the Dolomites peaks against a mostly blue sky when we heard a rumbling which sounded like thunder. Lightning flashes confirmed our suspicion that a storm was about to erupt on the other side of the mountain range to our right. Weird to hear it but not see it! Minutes later the storm migrated to our side of the mountains. From our safe, cosy balcony we gasped at the downpour, inhaled the sweet earthy smells and shuddered at the ominous lightening patterns. Then minutes later the storm headed west.

Sarntal Alps

Each day we hiked on trails in different parts of the area. Our first hike in the nearby Sarntal Alps required a skillful, slow drive up a narrow, windy road to the trailhead. The weather was glorious with no sign of the storm from the previous night. We walked up a gentle slope with the goal of reaching a church at an altitude of 2,300 meters. For 3 hours we were in the midst of undulating, emerald green slopes and dairy pastures. The shapely Dolomites with their distinct grayness framed the horizon and we kept stopping to admire them.

Val Gardena

We spent a day hiking in the Alpe di Suis. From the town of Suis where we parked the car, a long, long cable ride deposited us in Compatsch, situated high up in the Dolomites. From there we took another cable car further up. This meant hiking on a mainly downhill trail with a gradual gradient. At the start of the trail rolling mist draped over the mountain tops. Notable on this walk was a breathtaking view of the narrow Val Gardena. Brilliant green, with clusters of villages on the floor between mountain walls. Along the way we past dairy farms, refugios, and lots of benches to rest and admire the views.

Our third hike, on a trail closer to Latzfons in the Isarco Valley, just beyond Villandro, provided a more remote experience than we'd had in the popular Alpe di Suis. A steep uphill stretch gave us a workout and led us to a point from where we had a panorama of South Tyrol, with the striking Dolomites in the background.

For the second half of our week in the mountains we based ourselves in Brunico, from where we had easy access to the "must do" trails.

At Pordoi Pass

Leaving behind Latzfons, we headed east onto the Great Dolomites Road, famous for its numerous hairpin bends and mountain passes. At Pordoi Pass we were surrounded by the iconic peaks and couldn't resist a hike up a trail into the rugged cliffs. Pristine air, mild temperatures and sublime scenery - ingredients to put anyone in a jolly mood.
We headed north on the tamer SS244, cutting through the Val di Badia. Brunico, though strategically situated to access popular Dolomites trails, didn't have the jaw dropping setting typical of towns in South Tyrol. As a result the town felt local, authentic and Hotel Post in the center was more than sufficiently luxurious.
An extravagant breakfast buffet on our first morning was a wonderful surprise. Especially since we'd been making our own breakfasts until now. And since on our agenda was a full day of hiking we felt free to fill up on eggs, cheeses, pastries, fruit and yogurt.

Lago di Braies

It was an easy 20 minute drive from Brunico to Lago di Braies, the largest and most famous Dolomites lake. We merged with a thick crowd to do the two and a half hour walk tracing the lake's periphery. As soon as I saw the beguiling blend of greens and blues surrounded by grey mountain wall, I understood the hype. The mountain backdrop kept changing on the walk and at one point we escaped the crowded lakeside trail and headed upwards through forest toward the jagged peaks. When we returned to the shore a band of mist descended obscuring the peaks and rendering the lake a deeper tone.

The most popular hike in the Dolomites is the 6 mile trail around Tre Cime, the famous triplet peaks that UNESCO adopted for its icon of this national park. From Brunico it was a 45 minute drive to the trailhead.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

For most of the hike on a gravelly well-defined trail we were worried about getting drenched in a rainstorm. Mist and clouds swirled and spread constantly, though we did have intermittent clear views of the spectacular spires. Looping around Tre Cime we had exposure to every possible angle of this stunning part of the Dolomites. Parts of the trail challenged me a bit. A section of steep climbing got me out of breath. I had to actually take mini rests! Then there was a section of narrow trail cut into a steep cliff with a sheer rocky drop on one side. Scary!!

Tre Cime Trail

But the exhilaration at the end of the hike underscored why these mountains are so special.

Our days in the mountains were followed by evening indulgences back in Brunico. The hotel's jacuzzi and sauna provided excellent therapy for tired muscles. With energy restored, dressed in city clothes, we took in the summer evening vibe of a small Italian town over apérol spritz at one of the many atmospheric bars. Dinner time here was later than in the previous places and by the time we were seated at a restaurant our desires leaned heavily toward carbs. Might as well indulge in wood fired pizza and fresh pasta dishes in their home country we thought! Especially after a day of outdoor physical exertion.

An entire pizza for each of us in Brunico's Old Town

We had one final day of mountain scenery on our drive to Salzburg where we were returning our rental car. We followed the scenic SP44 through the Italian and Austrian Alps.

Lake Obersee

En route we stopped for a hike to a waterfall, then at the Austrian border we munched a picnic sandwich with a gratifying view of a turquoise lake. An image that served as the end punctuation mark to our week in the mountains.

Summer Travels 2019 (Part 1) England

Annual England Visit

(July 27 - Aug 13)

During our roughly two weeks in England, we car tripped from Cambridge to Glossop, up to the Lake District, down to Kenilworth, then to Yatton, and ended in London (via a tow truck!) The trip was characterized by drawn out meals with loved ones, invigorating rambles in bucolic countryside, and rain. Heavy downpours almost daily. Oh, and a temperamental rental car that intermittently lost power at inopportune moments.

Intermittent rain kept us indoors much of the weekend in Cambridge, but over leisurely home cooked meals (Jason's cauliflower cheese, Marie's mushroom tart) we did a whole lot of catching up with Jason, Marie, Luc and Kristal.
On Monday, our third day in Cambridge, we awoke to a cloudless sky. The outdoors dominated the day's agenda so we thanked the weather gods. While Daryl spent the day with Jason in Suffolk, I hooked up with Troy for a long hike. We hadn't seen each other since the Serengeti safari last year so we had much to yak about. We started at Byron's Pool (named after Lord Byron) and followed the trail to the utterly charming old village of Grantchester, returning to Cambridge along the River Cam. In a setting of verdant meadows, birdsong, swan families, punters and willow trees along the riverbank I felt incredibly uplifted. And eager for more nature walks in the next days and weeks.

Daryl and I were on a nature trail in the Pennines the next afternoon. In the morning we had driven up north from Cambridge into the high peaks of Derbyshire. At Langsett Reservoir we stopped for a pub lunch (a pie and pint of bitter). The moors that we could see from the garden table beckoned. We strapped on hiking boots and followed a trail that encircled the reservoir.

Langsett Reservoir Trail

We entered a pine forest where the air was heavily scented and the ground cushioned with mulch. Closer to the water we were on an open field of heather and grasses. Then, as we entered another forested section we heard rumbles of thunder. When lightning streaked across the sky we hightailed it back toward the parking lot. By the time we emerged onto the main road, we felt the first drops of rain. We flew into the car and headed for the Woodhead Pass. Within minutes the storm fully erupted. Bright streaks of lightning, deafening thunder, and the Pennines hidden in mist forced us to wait out the storm at a pullout. Luck was definitely on our side. When Glynis and Mike saw us a short while later in Hadfield their relief was obvious.
Snug and safe at the dinner table, we sipped wine and savored a steamy vegetable casserole. Through the window walls of the conservatory where the dining area is set up we admired their well tended garden full of bright summer blooms. The moors of the high peaks were also in full view from their dining table.

Despite rainy weather in Hadfield our days were dominated by the outdoors. And in the evenings we submitted to being pampered by Glynis and Mike. Hearty home cooked fare, lots of wine, and to end, sweet Greek treats that they'd brought back from a recent trip.

Then there was a notable pub lunch after a morning on the Longdendale trail.

Lunch at the Dog and Partridge Pub

A leek, pea and asparagus risotto with a pint of ale is best enjoyed at a picnic table with expansive views of the moors. Especially after a few hours on a nature trail.
The Longdendale Trail, part of the Trans-Pennine multi day walk, deserves some description.

On the Longdendale Trail

This 10 km mostly level stretch is a section of a former railway line that connected Manchester and Sheffield. We picked up the trail from Hadfield and within minutes we were in a landscape of lush undulating fields, ancient stone walls, the chain of reservoirs providing Manchester's water, overgrown blackberry brambles and even a waterfall. After three hours of immersion in this scenery an ale at a pub's picnic table tasted especially refreshing.

In contrast to the wild moors I had a day of city walking for a change. When I arrived at Manchester's Piccadilly Train Station my goal was to wander around the city, soaking up its summer vibe. I crossed over to the Piccadilly Gardens and for some bizarre reason took a photograph of the Queen Victoria Statue.

Piccadilly Gardens, Manchester

At lunch time Glynis and I noshed on tasty vegan burgers at the plant based restaurant called Vertigo in the striking Royal Exchange building. Alone in the afternoon I wandered past other significant buildings like the Manchester Cathedral, St. Anne's Church and the Art Gallery until the rain came down. I ducked in the Arndale Center where I hoped to find a sun hat for our trip to the Dolomites. Amazingly, despite the many sports shops in the center, and despite it being the peak of summer, a few unappealing baseball hats was all I could find! It was still raining when I headed back to the station. Aha, I thought, in this city there was no need for protection from the sun!

Lake District

Luckily we had a fair amount of dry weather further north. In the humble south Lake District town of Cark (overshadowed by neighboring Cartmel) family members converged for a few days of together time. As this part of England owes its popularity to its way above average natural beauty, daily hikes defined our days.

On our first morning we strolled on the promenade of Grange over Sands. Situated on an estuary, this peaceful coastal stretch, just a couple miles from our vacation rental, gave us a dose of the local geography.

On another day we drove further out, to the town of Seascale on the Irish Sea coast.

Seascale

Here, we walked on the sandy beach and then onto a section of the Cumbrian Coast trail. On this wild, remote stretch we could've walked for hours. Of course it was rain that forced us back to the car.
On our last day in Cark, Clare accompanied Daryl and me on a walk to Cartmel two miles away. A footpath led us through dairy and sheep farms, into a shady forest, and then through rolling green meadows fringed by stone walls.

Scenery on trail connect Cark to Cartmel

We'd already sampled Cartmel's famous sticky toffee pudding and were eager to finally to see this much hyped town. It turned out to be rather charming, with quaint stone buildings, a river flanked by bright gardens, and a lively food scene. We rested our weary legs at a courtyard table munching a sandwich and sampling a craft IPA. Before heading back on the trail we considered a sticky toffee pudding indulgence but opted for a fruit tart smothered in custard.

Cartmel seen from a distant high point on our walk back to Cark

While exercise, fresh air, and nature defined our days in Cark, the evenings were dedicated to family time over drawn out meals lubricated by craft gin cocktails.
The highlight was the Big Family Dinner on our second day when various relatives who weren't staying at the Cark house drove up for a reunion. We were 3 generations gathered together, 19 in total, around the table in the back garden on a glorious sunny day, summer at its best. On the menu was homemade lasagna made by Troy, accompanied by a hefty salad. Gin, bubbly and wine flowed too freely.

Dinner Party, Cark

Dessert had to be Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding. Every variety available and everyone gobbled up as much as their bodies could handle.

Sticky Toffee Pudding anyone?

It was a beautiful day and a satisfying meal. Despite the recently installed occupant at 10 Downing Street we were able to focus on topics that made us laugh and smile. The somberness and anxiety around Boris and Brexit was discernible everywhere in England, but we made a point of remembering what truly mattered. Family, love, good health, and doing whatever you can for others.

When we parted with family Daryl and I drove up to Windemere for two more nights in the Lake District. At Bowness-on-Windemere we hopped on a boat headed for Ambleside. We were on England's largest lake, enjoying the lush meadows and forests hugging the periphery.  

Lake Windemere

At the Ambleside Pier we had a quick lunch - a boring, cheese sandwich - then boarded a boat to Wray Castle. From there we strolled on a 4 mile lakeside trail to Ferry House.

Afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel

There were sporadic bursts of showers, but with our rain repellent outerwear and umbrella we embraced the sweet moist air and soaked up the magnificent scenery for which this area is famous.

A short ferry ride then returned us to Bowness.

Time for afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel, a majestic building overlooking the lake.
Early Grey tea, finger sandwiches, an assortment of cakes and of course, fresh, warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam.

In Windemere we stayed in a cute but tiny garden "hut". Most of our time was taken up by walks - to the towns of Windmere and Bowness, as well as down to the lake along the shore.

Heading south from the Lake District more hearty, drawn out meals and country walks awaited.

Ploughman's Lunch at Hatton Locks Café

We spent a glorious day with David and Rona on the towpath of the Hatton Locks section of the Grand Union Canal. We admired the 21 locks called the "stairway to heaven", picked blackberries, watched narrow canal boats, then sauntered to the café for lunch. Daryl went for the ploughman's lunch, one of the best we'd seen in recent years. Three types of strong cheeses and crusty bread. Yum!

The Epsteins love entertaining. Friends of theirs joined us for a hearty dinner featuring borscht made with homegrown beets. Lucky for us Julia came over from Oxford and we got a chance to catch up with her. Eight of us around the table covered a range of topics. I was pleased to chat with Ian Stewart about his books on math meant for a mainstream readership. I must add that I made the dessert. Summer pudding assembled from homegrown berries and currants, served with rich custard.

Another lingering meal awaited us the next day in Yatton. Saff's elaborate rice salad was the centerpiece of a big dinner gathering. It was so wonderful to see and catch up with Tom, Zoe, Denis, their partners, and Maddy. We'd seen Kathy and her baby earlier.

The walk we did in Yatton was a section of the Strawberry Line. This wide, traffic free path for cyclists and walkers connects several towns in Somerset County. What a fabulous concept! While Daryl and Saff paired up for some good catch up time, Gwen and I shared some quality time too.
Our Yatton visit ended with Sunday lunch in Portishead at The Windmill Inn. With Valerie, Saff and Gwen for company and a pleasing view of Bristol Channel and the Severn Bridge we gobbled up a vegetarian version of traditional (nut roast, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, mushroom gravy).

In London we enjoyed one more dinner gathering at the Self home in Wilsden Green. Gil went all out to prepare a feast, launched by bruschetta topped with roasted bell peppers, and followed by a main course of exquisite nut roast accompanied by a lentil squash casserole. Dom, Randy and Katie chatted about their recent travels. We exchanged Thailand experiences. We laughed about irritations of the expat  in the UK. Gil shared with us her travel wishes. So many years of meeting up with this family in the same dining room. So grateful to continue the tradition.

After two beautiful weeks of visiting family and friends we left England for a holiday in the Italian Dolomites and two Austrian cities. For details stay tuned for Parts 2 and 3.

Thailand Vacation Part Four

Bangkok

Christmas Day

Our first taste of Bangkok was on Christmas Day when we spent a night in the city before heading south to Krabi.

Bangkok's traffic

After  a 6 hour journey from Phitsanulok on a clunky train (mitigated by cushioned seats in a quiet, air-conditioned, second class compartment, plus the belief that long distance train journeys reveal much about a country) we hopped into a taxi and found ourselves in a thrumming metropolis. The ride to our hotel in the Sathorn area near Lumphini Park took a half hour for a distance under 3 miles. Yes, the traffic was insane, but not in that crazy way I'd seen in India and Vietnam. Nobody honked, the cars looked new-ish, and the sluggish flow appeared orderly.

Our hotel room, just for the one night, turned out to be an elegantly furnished studio suite which included a plush sofa, a dining table, and a fully outfitted kitchenette. Wow!  

Late in the day when the temperature was bearable we stepped out into an urban center with visible 21st century aspirations. Smartly dressed office workers spilled out of glass and steel skyscrapers. Though it was Christmas, it appeared to be a normal work day. This part of Bangkok, the financial district, had a distinct global feel to it. We past a Starbucks, a BNP Paribas, Deutsche Bank, fast food places, a bakery displaying muffins, cookies, and Danish pastries. English featured everywhere.

A pedestrian bridge gave us access over a traffic clogged thoroughfare into Lumphini Park. For a short while we escaped the city's frenzy in a small section of this green, open space with a lake and walking trails.   

In the evening we treated ourselves to a fine Christmas dinner at Zanotti, an upmarket Italian restaurant in our hotel neighborhood. The mood was set by a festive interior, white linen, red flowers and ribbons, wait staff in Santa hats with flickering lights, and of course, unavoidably, Christmas tunes in the background. English was the sole language used to address the mixture of Thai and western diners. The menu was in Italian with English translations. So we played along with the pretense that we'd temporarily left Thailand!
Within minutes of being seated a variety of freshly baked breads arrived, accompanied by a fragrant bruschetta sauce. Ah, yes! We smiled, anticipating a feast for the epicure.

Christmas dinner at Zanotti in Bangkok

And indeed it was. Homemade gnocchi in a creamy, cheesy sauce and spinach filled ravioli in tomato sauce. Perfect textures and seasonings. And to wash it down, a Chianti. Dessert was something called bonet Piedmont, a specialty from that region. A block of chocolate créme caramel on an amaretto base, laced with rum. Exquisite. At $100 the meal seemed steep compared to the past week, but by California standards, a bargain.

And then Christmas was over. Thank goodness!

New Year's Eve

Six days after that divine dinner we returned to the capital on an Air Asia flight from Krabi.  Bangkok's unflattering reputation notwithstanding we were actually excited to have three days here at the tail end of our trip. Our mission was to find and indulge in unforgettable Thai cuisine.

In contrast to Christmas night, this time our hotel was in the Old Town. Though our room at the Riva Arun was a fraction of the size of anything we'd previously had on this trip, it didn't lack in luxury. We were beside the Chao Phraya River, in the neighborhood of Bangkok's oldest and most famous monuments.
After settling into our room I stepped outside to explore dining options. Directly across the street I spotted a restaurant called Suppanigga (Ouch! Hated that name!). At 5:35 PM it buzzed with diners on both its ground floor and upstairs terrace. The furniture and décor was the first hint that this was a special place. I browsed the menu, saw a page of enticing vegetarian mains featuring crispy tofu, interesting mushrooms, and creatively prepared vegetables, and knew we had to eat here! Through the restaurant's glass walls I could see boats bobbing over the wide Chao Praya River. Over on the other bank Wat Arun, aka the Temple of Dawn, stood gracefully, imperially, bathed in the rays of a sun low in the sky. "Do you have a table for two?" I asked a smiling waitress. My voice must've conveyed my eagerness.
She hesitated, looked around, then said,"We have a table right now, but we are fully booked the rest of the evening." It was New Year's Eve. Perfectly understandable. I dashed back to the hotel and fetched Daryl. Since we'd eaten a light lunch of mangoes and papaya before our flight out of Krabi, we were so ready for a big meal.

From our table we had a splendid view of Wat Arun, the most photographed of Bangkok's temples. We were facing the Th Thien Boat Pierboat pier on the other side of the glass wall. A crowd had gathered for the last sunset of 2018. In this astonishing setting we had our tastiest Thai meal. I have to say, the breathtaking view was a huge distraction from a meal that deserved our full attention. As the sun descended behind the stunning temple the sky appeared to be on fire. The river was transformed too, golden ripples rendering it unreal in the twilight. What a perfect dinner! Even the dessert, a panna cotta (I know. They were out of mango sticky rice!), was superb.

Sunset from Th Thien Boat Pier - the best way to enjoy Wat Arun as it changes colors

Of course we had to dine at Suppanigga the next 2 nights. But the waitresses shook their heads and chuckled when we asked about reservations. Back at our hotel when I went online I saw that their first available evening was four weeks later, on Jan 28! Darn it!

Later in the evening we returned to the pier to soak up the NYE atmosphere. Party boats glided  by packed with dressed up people dancing to energetic music. Wat Arun, brilliantly lit up, the centerpiece, dominating the view. This temple is different from the other ones we'd seen in the country because of its Khymer architectural style. The towering prang, 80 meters in height, represents the mythological and metaphoric Mount Meru. Surrounding it are four smaller, identical chedis, in a symmetrical pattern.

Wat Arun lit up at night

An hour before midnight we crashed our hotel's rooftop restaurant's NYE dinner party (with permission!). Over fruity cocktails we gazed in awe at the views around us. Modern skyscrapers to the south, and below us, a different perspective of the illuminated party boats and the river. Dazzling Wat Arun, reflected in the rippling water, was especially arresting. The temperature was deliciously balmy. We were surrounded by elegantly dressed diners finishing up their dessert and last sips of wine. American Jazz music was playing and lights and decorations enhanced the atmosphere. Excitement built up as we counted down to midnight. Champagne was passed around to everyone, us included. Pushing aside our anxieties about Brexit and the White House occupant we toasted to a new year as fireworks lit up the sky.

Fireworks to usher in 2019, from our hotel rooftop near the Chao Phraya River

On New Year's Day, a major public holiday in Thailand, we marched in sweltering midmorning heat to the city's number one tourist site, The Grand Palace. When we saw the mega crowd at the entrance we escaped into an air-conditioned taxi. We hoped to have better luck at the Jim Thompson House, second on our Bangkok itinerary. We were so pleased to find ourselves in a quiet part of the city, on the banks of the Saen Saeb Canal.

Jim Thompson House

While waiting for our scheduled guided tour we sauntered through the shady garden full of native trees and shrubs. It felt soothing with pleasant scents, bird sounds, and two large ponds - one with Koi fish and the other turtles and exotic fish. On a tour of the house we learned that Jim Thompson made his fortune by recognizing the superiority of Thai silk and marketing it to the world. (At the entrance to the site tourists are greeted by a local Thai weaver demonstrating the process of silk weaving from cocoons.) A slender Thai woman guide explained in rehearsed English the history and architecture of the Jim Thompson House. Six teak dwellings, connected by elevated planks, had been transported from Ayutthaya, an archeological park north of Bangkok. The main house was a blend of East and West design. Magnificent art pieces and sculpture were displayed in all the rooms - Chinese Ming porcelain, Belgian glass, Cambodian carvings, Burmese statues, Thai stone images, and colonial chandeliers. Interesting fact about Jim Thompson is that he disappeared mysteriously in 1967, never to be found.

Our tour ended at lunch time. We were hot and ravenous, but the vibrant on site restaurants were not vegetarian friendly. So we left the area on a boat taxi, packed with locals, down the canal to the Ratchadamnoen intersection. Despite the many restaurants, hotels, and grand buildings in this busy area, it took twenty grueling minutes of searching before we found a suitable air-conditioned veggie friendly restaurant. But the service turned out to be atrocious. Just when I was about to faint the pineapple fried rice arrived. We scarfed it down. A while later the red curry and steamed rice arrived. It vanished in seconds. Both dishes delivered on taste, but heck, the wait just about killed us.

Adding to the afternoon's frustrations was the tricky business of hailing a legitimate taxi. Tuk tuks, notoriously overpriced, kept pestering us. Then unmetered taxi drivers kept stopping for us. Daryl would've happily hopped into any of those vehicles. I waved them off, knowing a little patience would reward us with a metered taxi. But suddenly traffic officers marched onto the middle of the thoroughfare and stopped all traffic. Nothing was going anywhere! No idea why. So we trudged the remainder of the way, drenched in sweat, cursing the heat.

Later, after a siesta and showers, as we gasped at the sunset from the boat pier, we shrugged off the awful afternoon. Challenges were to be expected when you travel to far away places.

We made an early start the next day. First we heaped on the calories at hotel's rooftop breakfast buffet. The morning views of the river and skyline were stunning in a different way. A deep blue sky formed the background and daylight rendered more clarity and vibrancy. From our table we could see the chedi spires of another famous temple called Wat Pho. The breakfast spread was sinfully lavish for just $12. Homemade granola (too crunchy with mainly seeds and nuts), yogurt, tropical fruit, fresh baked breads, croissants, muffins, eggs, as well as traditional Asian cooked stuff. The coffee was strong, as it always was everywhere in Thailand, so we were thoroughly satisfied when we headed out to the Grand Palace.

The line, just ten minutes after opening time, was already long, but moved fast and within minutes we were inside the grounds. A downloaded audioguide helped us navigate the enormous park on which were numerous buildings and monuments. Most famous, most opulent, was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. We had to fight our way through a thick crowd to see the surprisingly small Buddha image made of jade or some other similar semi precious stone housed in an extravagantly decorated temple.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Giant golden chedi outside the temple were jaw dropping. Other temples in the complex were decorated with gilded figures, Buddha images, and scary carved faces. A long stretch of a shaded mural gallery was a welcome relief from the sun. As we studied the panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana I recalled my visit to Angkor Wat in Cambodia a few years ago.

The Grand Palace, a blend of Asian and European design

The palace complex was a surprise. The main structure looked like it was pulled out of France. Even the formal landscaping around the palace evoked French chateaus. The Dusit Hall, incorporating both European and Asian architectural styles, was quite a stunner.

In the afternoon we took a break from cultural activities and spent a few hours at a shopping center called the Platinum Mall. Everyone told us that shopping was an essential part of the Bangkok experience. We were only too glad for an excuse to be in an air-conditioned, indoor space when the afternoon sun was at its fiercest. First, we headed to the food court on the top level. When we saw the collection of stalls, emulating an upmarket version of street food, we could instantly tell we'd find tasty food. The vegan stall's vegetarian peking duck and noodle stir-fry didn't disappoint.
Clothes shopping is not our idea of fun, but we managed to endure the process and acquire unremarkable but useful items. Most of the stores carried "Made in Thailand" brands, considerably easing the chore.

Thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, we hung out at our hotel's rooftop terrace through the evening, first enjoying sunset cocktails, then dining on dishes made especially for us at tourist prices. The Pad Thai (of course!) and a Thai/Italian hybrid of spicy fettuccini with fried tofu were quite decent. It was our last evening in Thailand. From our table we could see the lit up spires of Wat Pho, a "must see" temple on any Bangkok itinerary. We'd be visiting it in the morning before heading out to the airport.

View of Wat Pho spires from dinner table

Early in the morning the air was still pleasant when we made the short trek from our hotel to Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. We hadn't realized what a huge complex it was until we wandered through its graceful grounds. Beautiful stupas, colorful porcelain facades, Chinese statues, and thousands of Buddha images to make you wonder about the country's history.

Wat Pho

The reclining Buddha covered in gold leaf

The main attraction at Wat Pho is a 46 meter long, 15 meter tall Buddha. It fills up the entire hall. We dutifully gawked at it and walked around to figure out the best way to photograph it. The feet, 5 meters long, were decorated with mother of pearl designs. If you needed a break from staring at the gold leaf Buddha image, you could look at the paintings on the walls for a glimpse of the past.

We'd seen so many Buddha images on this trip. Every size, posture, expression. Buddha is so integral to Thai culture. But, when we boarded the plane hours after seeing the biggest image of all, our knowledge of Buddhism was as dismal as the day we'd arrived in Thailand. Actually, we were now more confused than ever. Didn't Buddha advocate humility, simplicity, a rejection of material things? I guess we have some homework to do!

Thailand Vacation Part Three

Krabi Province

Dec 26 - 30

On a trip to Thailand you're expected to include a beach destination in your itinerary. Because only a fool would skip the opportunity to enjoy one of its numerous idyllic beaches. Of course, there are those tourists who've experienced nothing but the beach resorts. I won't pass judgement on them! After doing our research we chose Krabi, over Phuket and Pattaya and all those other overbuilt, package tour destinations. And so we spent the final days of 2018 at a hedonistic wonderland by the Andaman Sea.
Hmmm. How do I avoid describing our time in Railay like a piece out of Condé Nast?
Take a look at this photo.

West Railay Beach

Our hotel, Sand Sea Resort, is hidden in the foliage close to the water. It's in the middle of a row of resorts, all designed to blend into the scenery to preserve the area's beauty. Between our hotel and the milky emerald water lies a wide stretch of white, powdery beach. The water is warm, shallow, and calm, like a sheet of colored glass. Dramatic limestone cliffs, called karsts, jut out in every direction. The karsts are also the reason this area is cut off from the mainland. An isolated spot, accessed only by boat. A place inhabited solely by tourists and the locals who run the services to keep tourists happy.

Mangrove swamps at East Railay Beach

East Railay, on the opposite side of where we were based, is characterized by mangrove swamps and a muddy, pebbly beach. Though it lacks the grandeur of West Railay, resorts and restaurants nevertheless, line the shore.

Our four days here were all about rest and relaxation. The Sand Sea Resort, where we stayed, wasn't posh. In fact, it was easily the most modest of the strip of resorts lining West Railay Beach. That's why we loved it. The rooms, each an individual bungalow, with thatched roof and a front porch, were charming. Tropical landscaping around each bungalow provided semi-seclusion, and added to a feeling of being away from the real world.

Each room at our not fancy resort is an individual bungalow

There was a back pool and a front pool, each balancing out the other with their attributes. From morning to late afternoon we escaped the cacophonous long tail boats and hordes of day trippers by hanging out at the back pool, where it was peaceful, less crowded, and shaded by mango trees. From lounge chairs we could admire the tops of karsts against a blue sky. Between dips in the pool I spent large amounts of time reading Zadie Smith. I finally finished Swing Time, a novel I had started a while back but for some reason had only got through the first half. Like all her books, I lapped up her originality, her wit, her spot on characterizations. I also got through Feel Free, a compilation of stimulating essays. I especially enjoyed Smith's analysis of the painful Brexit referendum result, an essay she wrote right after that dreadful event. Rupert Murdoch, she mused, is the culprit for the political climate in the UK and the US.
I usually left the back pool when a troop of monkeys paid their daily visit. They bounded up trees, gobbled green mangoes, and showed their disdain for us, humans by peeing and pooping as they swung from tree to tree.

West Railay Beach - time for a swim

Toward the late afternoon the beach's allure was impossible to resist. First of all, the long tail boats, which ferry tourists all day to neighboring islands and the mainland, shut down their services by 5:00 PM. A note about those boats: They are awful! Belching out black, odorous smoke, their loud engines assaulting the ears, how are they allowed here?
When, late in the day, the beach became shaded and cooler from a light breeze, the warm, calm waters of the Andaman Sea beckoned. Yes, this was why we'd flown thousands of miles! To feel that delicious sensation of salty wetness from head to toe.
It was also a popular time for kayakers to paddle out into the water, around the karsts. The sound of splashing oars added to the magic.

Stalactites on a karst

A leisurely beach stroll, barefoot on soft sand, splashed by warm water, followed a swim. The coolness and shade allowed us to get close to the karsts. They were full of attractive features like stalactites, caves, and gouged out surfaces.

Sunset over the Andaman Sea from West Railay Beach

Sunset at the Andaman Sea was an event. We headed to the front pool of our hotel for the show. At 8 degrees above the equator, sunset in December was at 6:15 PM. The beach filled up with people sitting on mats, sipping cocktails, gazing at the horizon. A gin and tonic was our drink choice, and from our pool lounge seat we'd look straight across the water. As the sun sank lower and lower, a stillness would fall, everyone transfixed by the changing colors and reflections. When the sun disappeared the clouds turned fiery. Dusk lingered for about an hour after sunset.

Then it was time for dinner. We'd head to the walking street, a vibrant lane full of restaurants, shops, and bars. It has to be said the dining scene for vegetarians was unexciting. There's variety, which excited us initially. Pizza (wood-fired even), pasta, lots of Thai food, a vegan/vegetarian take-out, and Indian. Most restaurants emphasized freshly caught fish and seafood prepared on barbecue grills. We had a disappointing Thai meal, but two excellent Indian meals at Kohinoor. I was reminded of the delicious food I'd had in India when I tasted their paneer tikka masala cooked in a tandoor oven, and a mixture of fresh vegetables exquisitely cooked in a spicy tomato based sauce. Even the naan bread was crisp with a slight smokiness, and divine.

Divine. A word that could be applied to every waking moment during those four dreamy days on a gorgeous beach in southern Thailand...

Krabi Town

Dec 30

We spent a night in Krabi Town for a more "authentic" experience in this part of the country before heading to Bangkok. A long tail boat ferried us back into the real world of car traffic, busy streets, and people going about their everyday, normal lives. We hid from the unbearable heat in our air-conditioned hotel room until sunset. Stepping out into the town, as night markets were opening up, we were pleased to see a good blend of locals and tourists. On Railay Beach the only locals we encountered were hotel and restaurant staff and strangely, most of them were muslim of Malay descent. In the evening the whole town of Krabi seemed to turn into an open-air market. We soaked up the vibrancy as we wandered through lanes of stalls carrying souvenirs, textiles, crafts, clothes, and made to order food, mainly seafood.
Suddenly, the sky clouded up, and a storm erupted. We escaped to a trendy, western restaurant for an overpriced pasta dinner.

The next morning we had breakfast at another trendy, western restaurant, May and Marks.

A healthy breakfast at May and Marks in Krabi

Everything on their menu sounded heavenly. Daryl opted for muesli with yogurt and tropical fruit (papaya, pineapple). I had to work hard to resist a breakfast pastry and settled for their house made sourdough toast topped with poached eggs. Of course, the cappuccino was as satisfying as we'd come to expect everywhere in Thailand.

The Crab Sculpture that gives the town its name

Before leaving Krabi we strolled along the inviting paved riverside pathway. From the picturesque river-mouth, the karsts, further away, seemed tame.We came to a square crowded with tourists all lined up to be photographed beside a giant crab sculpture. Aha, we thought, so that was how the town got its name!

It was the last day of 2018. New Year's Eve excitement was in the air. More heightened than in the northern hemisphere where it was midwinter.

We would be in Bangkok in the evening, and hoped for a good view of fireworks at midnight.