A Car Journey Around the Island ...
September in Europe presented the opportunity to venture way south to Italy’s football suspended in the Mediterranean near its toe. Surely with summer on the wane, Sicily’s heat wouldn't be intolerable? Over the years friends had enthused about the island’s archeological sites, its layered architecture, its natural beauty, and of course, its legendary gastronomy. A destination bound to please. Enlisting the advice of friends who knew Sicily well, we designed an itinerary for a nine day car trip. We were maybe too ambitious. A new destination each day, from west to south to east. Starting in Palermo we drove west to Segesta and Erice. Then we headed south to Agrigento for the Valley of the Temples. Next, we veered inland to Piazza Armerina to see the famous mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale. From here we drove to the east coast, starting in Syracuse. Taormina came next which we reached via the western flank of Mt Etna and our journey ended in Catania after climbing up Europe's largest active volcano.
Palermo and Monreale (Sept 4, 5)
Our day in Sicily's dynamic, unpretentious capital began with a scrumptious lunch at a lively, somewhat scruffy piazza in the Old Town. Scarfing down crispy mini arancini and flavorful eggplant caponata acquired from a street food vendor we had no doubt we'd arrived in food paradise. Our energy fully restored we were ready to take on Palermo's main sights.
The late summer heat beat down on us as we headed toward the top tourist attraction, Palazzo di Normanni. Down busy Corso Vittorio Emanuel we came to Quattro Canti, a famous intersection marking the city’s heart. A curved, three tiered late Renaissance façade graced each corner. Adorned with columns and statues, these structures were an arresting sight.
A little further on we peeked into a bakery and were blown away by the display of Sicilian pastries – cassata, ricotta filled cannoli, pistachio and almond cookies, marzipan shapes and an assortment of tempting cakes. The chocolate dipped cannoli and cookies we sampled were exquisite.
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| Mercato Ballaró |
Arriving at the Palazzo di Normanni in the middle of the afternoon we, along with a cluster of tourists, squinted at a completely shut entrance. We sauntered around the complex in search of other ways to enter this stately palace in use today by Sicily’s parliament. No luck. We’d have to miss out on the golden mosaics of the Cappella Palatina, a famous chapel within this building.
The exterior, Arab Norman style from around the 10th– 12thcenturies, was most impressive. Our slog in the heat was not in vain.
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| Palazzo di Normanni |
The exterior, Arab Norman style from around the 10th– 12thcenturies, was most impressive. Our slog in the heat was not in vain.
We spent the rest of the afternoon following the Lonely Planet’s guided walking tour of the historic quarter. Back up busy Corso Vittorio Emanuel via the graceful Porta Nuova, we soon arrived at another architectural marvel, Palermo Cathedral. A divine pistachio gelato cooled us off as we studied this example of Sicily’s Arab-Norman architectural style from an attractively landscaped front garden.
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| Fountain at Piazza Pretoria |
At Piazza Pretoria, its centerpiece massive fountain was quite a source of entertainment. You had to smile at the many naked mythological figures, in a square surrounded by imposing churches. Nearby, at Piazza Bellini, we walked up some steps to La Martorana, a 12th century church originally planned as a mosque. Due to a wedding party we were unable to enjoy the famous mosaics in the interior.
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| La Martorana |
Instead, we studied the stone exterior, its columns and arches and design work on tiles.
The guided walk led us to Via Paternostro where we came to Piazza San Francesco d’Assissi. We had to stop to admire the Renaissance style buildings. Most breathtaking was the Oratorio di San Lorenzo due to its remarkable stucco work. The Antica Focacceria S. Francesco also caught our attention.
Dating back to 1834 (according to a plaque on the door), it has been owned by 5 generations of Sicilians! Looping back to our hotel we past more interesting churches, the archeological museum and the Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house. We loved that the streets surrounding the opera house were named after famous composers.
Dating back to 1834 (according to a plaque on the door), it has been owned by 5 generations of Sicilians! Looping back to our hotel we past more interesting churches, the archeological museum and the Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house. We loved that the streets surrounding the opera house were named after famous composers.
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| Eggplant Parmesan at Bebop Restaurant |
Our day in Palermo concluded with a magnificent five course meal at Bebop Restaurant, located just a block from our hotel. American jazz music and pictures of famous jazz artists set an ambience of contemporary rather than Old World. Our sampler vegetarian menu riffed on Sicilian dishes, transforming the traditional to ultra trendy. What sheer indulgence to be served a series of skillfully prepared dishes featuring high quality ingredients! Two pasta courses appeared, one tossed in exquisite pesto sauce and the other in a lighter, tomato based sauce. We sampled Grillo, a popular Sicilian white wine, and a medium red, both complementing the meal splendidly.
From Palermo to Monreale
Tonic Hotel worked well for us for our first night in Sicily. We loved its location at the edge of Palermo's historic quarter and close to the upmarket shopping and dining of the modern part of the city. The hotel felt intimate with lots of Old World charm seen in its marbled staircase and elegantly furnished rooms. And in the morning the breakfast buffet spread of fresh baked pastries, tarts, fruit, cheeses, eggs, and juices put us right into vacation mode. What a delight to have strong cappuccinos served at our table!
It was Day 2 of our Sicily exploration and we were ready to start our driving adventure. Picking up our rental car from the train station, less than two miles from our hotel, proved more troublesome than necessary. Boarding the wrong bus (don’t ask!) we went further and further away from the station! Deploying problem solving skills we eventually drove a Smart car out of Palermo well before lunch.
It was Day 2 of our Sicily exploration and we were ready to start our driving adventure. Picking up our rental car from the train station, less than two miles from our hotel, proved more troublesome than necessary. Boarding the wrong bus (don’t ask!) we went further and further away from the station! Deploying problem solving skills we eventually drove a Smart car out of Palermo well before lunch.
Within minutes we realized that the speed maniacs we had encountered on the Amalfi Coast years ago were tame in comparison to Sicilian drivers! It took some adrenalin filled moments for us to get on the road to Monreale, our first stop 8 km away. “Not the freeway?” Daryl groaned when I yelled not to enter the ramp, and directed him up the windy Monte Caputo road. Sicily’s geologic history unfolded in steep gradients and a rugged coastline. The Cattedrale di Monreale, a 12thcentury Norman monument commissioned by William II, stood at the top of a hill.
We spent an hour gasping and exclaiming at interior walls covered in Byzantine style mosaic art depicting biblical stories.
The story of Adam and Eve was especially well illustrated. A prominent Jesus portrait drew my attention. As did the ornately designed ceiling which my neck did not appreciate with all that awkward bending! We climbed up marble stairs through an arched, thick walled stairwell to the bell tower. On the way we caught a bird’s eye-view of the formal garden layout in the courtyard. From the top we gasped at how built up Palermo was. Beyond the expanse of red tiled roofs the Bay of Conca d'Oro sparkled. We also enjoyed a close up of the cathedral’s exterior red tiles and domes.
To better appreciate this Norman cathedral's architecture, which included Arab, Byzantine and Classical elements, we chose a lunch place with a view. There really could not have been a better setting for our first traditional Sicilian style pizza! Gooey cheese over herby sauce on a chewy base. A calorie loaded meal that our starved tummies craved. And the Cathedral against a cerulean sky was simply magnificent.
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| Cattedrale di Monreale |
We spent an hour gasping and exclaiming at interior walls covered in Byzantine style mosaic art depicting biblical stories.
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| Mosaics inside Cattedrale di Monreale |
To better appreciate this Norman cathedral's architecture, which included Arab, Byzantine and Classical elements, we chose a lunch place with a view. There really could not have been a better setting for our first traditional Sicilian style pizza! Gooey cheese over herby sauce on a chewy base. A calorie loaded meal that our starved tummies craved. And the Cathedral against a cerulean sky was simply magnificent.
The drive out of Monreale was less hair raising and once we arrived on the coast road, the blueness of the sea which matched the sky worked like a balm. Turning toward the interior we became immersed in bucolic scenery. Vineyards and orchards formed a patchwork of designs on contoured terrain.
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| Countryside around Segesta |
Segesta (Sept 5, 6)
Our Bed and Breakfast, in the midst of picturesque countryside, was just a few miles from Segesta, an important archeological site. As we pulled into the driveway of La Suite di Segesta we could see just beyond it an ugly industrial structure with big metal tanks and pipes. How odd! We learned after checking in that it was a wine making facility, and the owners were members of that cooperative. We instantly fell in love with our B and B. It was one of those old farmhouses that was home to many previous generations. Outdoor tables and benches were terribly inviting in the magnificent garden and pool area. It was late afternoon and we found ourselves in a dilemma. Should we head out to see the ancient temple late in the day as it cooled off? Or should we go for a swim in that enticing pool? Or should we go shopping for a picnic dinner to enjoy in the lovely garden with mountain views? We noticed in the dining area there was local co-op wine for just €6 a bottle. Surely the temple could wait until the next morning? This was vacation after all. We could allow ourselves a lazy evening. So we drove five miles to the closest village, Calatafimi. With the afternoon siesta over, the town buzzed with locals shopping or sitting on benches. Devoid of tourist glitz, it felt authentic, more reflective of Sicily's modest economy. In the midst of characterless storefronts we found a well stocked grocery market. Gastronomy was a serious matter here, making food shopping at a grocery market a blissful experience.
Dinner beside the pool featured local cheeses (pecorino and fresh ricotta), sweet, ripe tomatoes, marinated artichokes, overly salted olives, crunchy grapes and crusty bread. The wine, a Grillo, was faultless. A pleasant evening temperature bolstered the charm factor. As did the golden hued horizon as the sun disappeared.
In the morning, after a hearty Italian breakfast, we headed up a windy road. A short while later the magnificent Doric temple of Segesta appeared, up on a hill, an isolated structure completely surrounded by semi-arid rural landscape. What an amazing sight! The heat, even at 9:00 in the morning, was already unbearable. From the parking lot we boarded a bus up the mountain from the temple to see the third century Greek amphitheatre gouged into a cliff. I walked down to the stage area and imagined plays performed for an audience distracted by breathtaking views that sweep out all the way to the sea.
On the walk downhill, in oppressive heat, we paused periodically to marvel at each new temple view. This unfinished structure from 2,500 years ago and still mostly intact, exerted a commanding presence in this isolated setting.
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| Segesta |
Back in our Smart car we wound down a scenic road to the coast. A blue green sea and curvaceous coastline had us mesmerized. At lunchtime we happened to spot a wooded park by the roadside near Scopello.
We pulled up to a picnic table with a perfect sea view and devoured dinner leftovers.
Our next stop was Scopello, a cute seaside town with an irresistable beach. A brief dip in the tepid water was sensational, augmented by views of tall, pointed rocks up the coast. The sky suddenly clouded over and a light shower had us scooting back to the car.
Our next stop was Scopello, a cute seaside town with an irresistable beach. A brief dip in the tepid water was sensational, augmented by views of tall, pointed rocks up the coast. The sky suddenly clouded over and a light shower had us scooting back to the car.
Erice (Sept 6)
We veered inland onto SS187. A steep climb and an endless series of hairpin bends brought us to Erice at the top of a cliff.
After checking in at La Pinete Hotel located near the gate to the Old Town, we made a beeline for Italy's most famous bakery. The Genovese and Sicilian Cassata were recommended so that's what we ordered. After fifteen blissful minutes in the back garden of Maria Grammatico Pasticceria we too felt sure that there couldn't be tastier pastries anywhere else in Italy! We spent the afternoon wandering through this walled medieval town with well preserved historic architecture. Erice appeared prosperous. Everything gleamed and sparkled and the town was full of tourists. On our way to Erice Castle, also known as Venus Castle, we noticed paintings of sensuous women displayed in public areas. An allusion to a wild past. Our tour of Erice Castle was quick since, apart from the entrance stone facade, the structure was just a pile of ruins. The only standing part was the Daedalus Wall. The sea views from our altitude of 750 meters were far more entertaining.
After checking in at La Pinete Hotel located near the gate to the Old Town, we made a beeline for Italy's most famous bakery. The Genovese and Sicilian Cassata were recommended so that's what we ordered. After fifteen blissful minutes in the back garden of Maria Grammatico Pasticceria we too felt sure that there couldn't be tastier pastries anywhere else in Italy! We spent the afternoon wandering through this walled medieval town with well preserved historic architecture. Erice appeared prosperous. Everything gleamed and sparkled and the town was full of tourists. On our way to Erice Castle, also known as Venus Castle, we noticed paintings of sensuous women displayed in public areas. An allusion to a wild past. Our tour of Erice Castle was quick since, apart from the entrance stone facade, the structure was just a pile of ruins. The only standing part was the Daedalus Wall. The sea views from our altitude of 750 meters were far more entertaining.
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| Erice Castle |
We left the castle and sauntered along the cliff for breathtaking views. A lush, wooded slope descended all the way down to the sea. We could see the port town of Trapani, and just above it, but below us, a cloud of fog was rapidly swirling and thickening. Within minutes Trapani, and everything else below us, was hidden in a thick, white cloud.
The attractive gardens surrounding the castle invited a stroll. From a particular part, near the edge of the cliff, sunset, we were told, was not to be missed. So, through a cluster of tourists we nabbed a spot from where we could admire the horizon's changing colors as the sun began to vanish. The fog had completely disappeared, and it all looked quite gorgeous.
Dinner time and another opportunity to indulge in Sicily's fine gastronomy.
At Gli Archi di San Carlo we dined in its cave like interior of stone walls and a low ceiling. Warm bread inside a brown paper bag arrived at our table soon after we were seated. The first course was an antipasti sampler (wild fennel, fried goat cheese, eggplant parmesan, caponata, pizzeta). For mains we had busiate (regional pasta) in tomato sauce and creamy gnocchi. Everything was freshly made, with robust flavors. The local red wine we chose with this meal confirmed our impressions of Sicily's exciting wine scene.
Breakfast at La Pinete Hotel was even more lavish than our previous ones. A bigger variety of fresh baked exquisite pastries (one filled with sorbet) and cakes, as well as a large spread of savory items meant overstuffing ourselves. The setting of the breakfast terrace with stunning sea views from the edge of a cliff, made it even more special. Our request for a second cappuccino was enthusiastically received. Could breakfast get any better?
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| Gate into Marsala's Historic Core |
Marsala
On the drive south to Marsala there were fewer hairpin bends and the road quickly widened. We entered this walled city through a grand gate, its prosperity flaunted in marbled lanes and baroque architecture. In a shady courtyard, beside a beautiful, baroque fountain, we submitted to our curiosity about the existence of drinkable marsala. Enotecas all over town invited tastings as if the beverage was to be taken seriously. It wasn't even noon yet when we sampled a surprisingly dry and pleasant wine.As we headed back to the car, armed with lunch purchases from a produce market, my thoughts were on food and drink. How much they had dominated our experiences in Sicily so far. When we planned this trip it was the presence of ancient Greek temples that aroused our interest. Perhaps it shouldn't surprise us that this has also become a culinary journey.
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