The Mediterranean Coast and Eastern Sicily
Sept (7 - 9)
Selinunte
We drove on an unexpectedly pleasant freeway southwest from Marsala to the Mediterranean Sea to explore the ruins of an ancient Greek city from 2500 years ago. Trekking around the Selinunte complex in the scorching afternoon heat was unimaginable. Luckily, a tourist mini-train transported us to the East temples, the best preserved part of this park. Between towering Doric columns, I gazed at the hazy sea, just a shade darker than the sky. A glorious location!
The train then deposited us at the acropolis, half a mile uphill to the west. There wasn't much to do apart from scramble through rock piles and imagine how the original structure was used in ancient times.
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| Selinunte Acropolis |
The train then deposited us at the acropolis, half a mile uphill to the west. There wasn't much to do apart from scramble through rock piles and imagine how the original structure was used in ancient times.
Back on our route to Agrigento, our evening destination, we were dismayed to find ourselves on a congested two lane highway. Aggressive Sicilian drivers made this stretch along the Mediterranean Coast a stressful one.
To get to our accommodation, Villa San Marco, we had to drive through the soulless built up town center of Agrigento. Unbroken rows of high rise apartments with no consideration for aesthetics. Just past the town center our GPS directed us to turn into a narrow gravel lane. Imprinted on one of the two pillars at the lane entrance was the name of a historical museum. Were we on a private road? Should we back up to the main road? Heavy traffic at high speeds ruled out that option. We proceeded on the lane. Our GPS happily encouraged us on. Now we were surrounded by olive trees, citrus groves and almond orchards.
Within minutes we arrived at Villa San Marco, our Bed and Breakfast. Blissfully remote, yet a short distance from that dense, built up town we had driven through, and just half a mile from the Valley of Temples, Sicily’s most significant archeological site. What a relief to get off the unpleasant roads and town and find ourselves in a delightful garden setting with peacocks running around. From our bedroom window we had an unobstructed view of the Templo della Concordia, the most intact structure in the historic park. After settling in, we confronted a dilemma. With the sun low in the sky it was the perfect time of day to tour the site.
On the other hand, who could resist a refreshing pool in a vibrant garden after a long and full day? It was a Kiekergaard moment. Either decision would be regretted. So we donned bathing suits and indulged all our senses. Cool water on our skins, birdsong, intoxicating flower scents, and best of all, an amazing view of the temple complex across groves and orchards.
Before dinner we chatted with an English couple in the garden. They'd arrived by ... train. "Train?" we asked, utterly baffled. They explained that they boarded the Eurostar in London, and after a few train changes reached the bottom of Italy where their train was taken by ferry across to Messina. From there they continued by train to Catania. The last bit to Villa San Marco had to be a taxi ride they admitted. These train enthusiasts shared other memorable journeys with us. The Trans Siberian Express from St. Petersburg to Beijing was one they particularly enjoyed.
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| Agrigento |
Within minutes we arrived at Villa San Marco, our Bed and Breakfast. Blissfully remote, yet a short distance from that dense, built up town we had driven through, and just half a mile from the Valley of Temples, Sicily’s most significant archeological site. What a relief to get off the unpleasant roads and town and find ourselves in a delightful garden setting with peacocks running around. From our bedroom window we had an unobstructed view of the Templo della Concordia, the most intact structure in the historic park. After settling in, we confronted a dilemma. With the sun low in the sky it was the perfect time of day to tour the site.
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| Villa San Marco |
Before dinner we chatted with an English couple in the garden. They'd arrived by ... train. "Train?" we asked, utterly baffled. They explained that they boarded the Eurostar in London, and after a few train changes reached the bottom of Italy where their train was taken by ferry across to Messina. From there they continued by train to Catania. The last bit to Villa San Marco had to be a taxi ride they admitted. These train enthusiasts shared other memorable journeys with us. The Trans Siberian Express from St. Petersburg to Beijing was one they particularly enjoyed.
Dinner was an unforgettable experience. A rustic 3 course home-cooked Sicilian meal, expertly prepared by the owners of Villa San Marco. From the dining terrace the illuminated Templo della Concordia was on full display, a glittering jewel framed by velvety darkness.
A gratifying view for a drawn out meal accompanied by a bottle of eminently quaffable local red wine. What a bargain of a meal for €20 per person! Rare for us we actually drank the entire bottle of wine over dinner! An intense, interesting, wonderful and unforgettable day, which happened to be my birthday.
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| Tempio della Concordia (Valley of the Temples) |
A gratifying view for a drawn out meal accompanied by a bottle of eminently quaffable local red wine. What a bargain of a meal for €20 per person! Rare for us we actually drank the entire bottle of wine over dinner! An intense, interesting, wonderful and unforgettable day, which happened to be my birthday.
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| Tempio della Concordia |
Piazza Armerina
A relatively easy drive on a good freeway, got us inland into central Sicily.
We spent the afternoon in the blissful interior of Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina. Here, we saw astounding Roman mosaic floor designs ranging from mythological creatures to women in bikinis to African game hunting scenes.
A mudslide in the 12thcentury kept this palace hidden and the mosaics protected for seven hundred years. Meandering through two floors of two interconnected buildings, we stepped back in time when the Roman royalty lived their lavish lives.
A relatively easy drive on a good freeway, got us inland into central Sicily.
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| Mosaic design - Villa Romana del Casale |
A mudslide in the 12thcentury kept this palace hidden and the mosaics protected for seven hundred years. Meandering through two floors of two interconnected buildings, we stepped back in time when the Roman royalty lived their lavish lives.
In the evening on a stroll through the small, medieval heart of Piazza Armerina I found it hard to believe we were in Italy. It felt so much more like the developing world, as did much of the Sicily we'd seen so far. Centuries old buildings and paved lanes begged to be repaired and cleaned up. But a sense of local pride was displayed in decorative lights strung across the central streets. Emerging out of disheveled lanes we were pleasantly surprised to see elegant baroque buildings lining piazzas. The Duomo in the main piazza was quite a striking sight with its towering dome and undecorated façade. It was a Friday night. Spirited locals wandered about or careened through narrow lanes in cars or bikes. Tourists didn't overnight here, preferring more exciting destinations after checking out the Roman mosaics.
At a reasonably atmospheric restaurant behind the main cathedral we sampled Pasta alla Norma, a typical Sicilian dish found on every menu on the island. A thick sauce made with eggplant, tomatoes and basil blanketed a bed of silky pasta. Scoops of fresh ricotta, topped the mound. Hmmm! Could this be a representation of a famous volcano? The other dish, a bubbling, smoky woodfired pizza, met with our absurdly high expectations. We regretted our wine choice though. A carafe of the house red, rough and syrupy, did not at all complement this superb meal.
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| Duomo Piazza Armerina |
At a reasonably atmospheric restaurant behind the main cathedral we sampled Pasta alla Norma, a typical Sicilian dish found on every menu on the island. A thick sauce made with eggplant, tomatoes and basil blanketed a bed of silky pasta. Scoops of fresh ricotta, topped the mound. Hmmm! Could this be a representation of a famous volcano? The other dish, a bubbling, smoky woodfired pizza, met with our absurdly high expectations. We regretted our wine choice though. A carafe of the house red, rough and syrupy, did not at all complement this superb meal.
Our accommodation, Villa Clementine, located at the edge of town, had a countryside feel. Surrounded by an attractive terraced garden with a pool, it was perfect for R and R. Our room, tasteful and welcoming, was beside the pool in a separate building to the main house. Too bad we had only a short time here. In the morning we, along with two other couples, were seated around a farmhouse style table in an airy dining room. A feast prepared by Rita, the owner, awaited us. In addition to freshly baked pastries, warm bread, home made jams, local honey, fresh fruit, and cheeses, she cooked up a fluffy spinach omelette. Coffee and fresh fruit juices ensured total satisfaction. And thus, another interesting destination was checked off our itinerary.
Syracuse
Did I mention that this trip has turned into a culinary journey too? That realization returned as I drooled at the two plates of fragrant, freshly prepared arancini that just arrived at our outside terrace table in Ortygia. Our eyes popped wide open at the pair of golden, pyramid shapes and a pair of smaller spheres. Twice the amount we expected, and way too much for us! It was over an hour past lunch time and we were ravenous. Much had happened in the hours since Rita's extravagant breakfast at Villa Clementine. We'd driven into Syracuse and had spent two absorbing hours exploring the 5thcentury Greek Theatre in unshaded heat.
We had walked all around admiring this large, white marbled structure from different angles. Above the Greek theatre a series of caves commanded attention too. I was fascinated by a waterfall inside one of them. In the same park is the Garden of Paradise. Pleasant, with shrubs and trees, and when you walk through, alongside citrus trees, you come to a series of limestone grottos.
These were used as prisons by cruel rulers. The most well known grotto is called the Ear of Dionysius. It’s 23 meters high and extends 65 meters into the Cliffside.
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| Greek Theater Syracuse |
We had walked all around admiring this large, white marbled structure from different angles. Above the Greek theatre a series of caves commanded attention too. I was fascinated by a waterfall inside one of them. In the same park is the Garden of Paradise. Pleasant, with shrubs and trees, and when you walk through, alongside citrus trees, you come to a series of limestone grottos.
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| Grotto at Garden of Paradise |
These were used as prisons by cruel rulers. The most well known grotto is called the Ear of Dionysius. It’s 23 meters high and extends 65 meters into the Cliffside.
After this full morning of tourist stuff, we wanted lunch to be a relaxed, sit down experience. This was why we headed to Ortygia. Almost as soon as we crossed over the bridge from mainland Syracuse, we were tempted by food choices in every direction. It was the specific mention of vegan and vegetarian that drew us to this tiny eatery specializing in made to order arancini.
We tore into the still steaming arancini, each uniquely composed of interesting vegetables, herbs, cheeses and flavorings like lemon juice and saffron. Against our better judgement we kept eating until they were gone. A light beer eased the process. My tummy felt like it was about to explode.
To work off those calories we intended to do a lot more walking than we had done in the morning. We’d heard a lot about Ortygia’s vibrant, mostly pedestrianized historic center, and its impressive Baroque architecture. After a quick look at the ruins of the Temple of Apollo we penetrated the maze of alleyways. We strolled through polished narrow, cobbled lanes peeking at souvenirs and regional wines, catching whiffs of coffee and baked goods. On this Sunday afternoon an upbeat atmosphere emanated from the huge number of tourists, far more than we’d seen in the western part of the island.
We tore into the still steaming arancini, each uniquely composed of interesting vegetables, herbs, cheeses and flavorings like lemon juice and saffron. Against our better judgement we kept eating until they were gone. A light beer eased the process. My tummy felt like it was about to explode.
To work off those calories we intended to do a lot more walking than we had done in the morning. We’d heard a lot about Ortygia’s vibrant, mostly pedestrianized historic center, and its impressive Baroque architecture. After a quick look at the ruins of the Temple of Apollo we penetrated the maze of alleyways. We strolled through polished narrow, cobbled lanes peeking at souvenirs and regional wines, catching whiffs of coffee and baked goods. On this Sunday afternoon an upbeat atmosphere emanated from the huge number of tourists, far more than we’d seen in the western part of the island.
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| Piazza del Duomo |
Ortigia’s showy Baroque architecture and glitzy stores revealed an opulence visibly absent in most of the Sicily we'd seen. At Archimedes Square we had to wait for a line of tourists photographing selfies before we were able to get a full view of the stunning Fountain of Diana.
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| Statue of Archimedes |
The statue of Archimedes had us recalling the Eureka(!) moment. Continuing along Via Roma we came to the main square framed by several breathtaking baroque buildings. The Duomo’s columned façade was stunning. It acquired this current Baroque style after the earthquake of 1693. Doric columns from the original Greek temple have been incorporated into the structure.
The heat was unpleasant, but we dutifully wandered on, to the island's southern tip to see the stone castle. At this picturesque spot we found a stone bench to rest our weary legs and watch locals relaxing and cooling off on their boats in the blue, blue water.
In the early evening the area livened up even more with la passeggiata. We were still feeling stuffed from our absurdly big lunch. A sit down restaurant dinner was out of the question. So we gathered salad stuff from a grocery store and selected a local red wine from one of those fancy wine shops.
Our accommodation was a few miles out of car free Ortigia, in the middle of farmland. At Dolce Casa, in addition to convenient parking, we had a spacious room in an immaculate house with lots of character. And the big, landscaped garden provided the perfect setting to sample a wine made from a grape varietal unique to Sicily. Nerello Mascalese. From the fertile volcanic slopes of Mount Etna.And what a beauty it was! Neither dry nor fruity, its distinct flavor was utterly, utterly satisfying. Naturally, our thoughts turned to Europe's largest active volcano, where we were headed next.
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