Ionian Coast
(Sept 10 - 13)
Mount Etna and Taormina
On our morning drive east to Syracuse from Piazza Armerina we had caught our first exciting glimpses of Mt. Etna. We were on a decent, quiet freeway surrounded by unremarkable scenery, when all of a sudden a grey conical mound filled up the landscape. Its clean, geometric shape beautiful against the sky. Twenty hours later, driving north from Syracuse, we followed the Lonely Planet’s suggested driving route around Etna’s western flank. Our evening destination was Taormina which lay just north of the volcano. In the little town of Bronte we picked up minutes old bread, pistachio cookies, a hunk of cheese and an enormous yellow peach (a gift from the vendor because I didn’t want the whole tray!). A light lunch would suffice after another breakfast feast from an over the top buffet spread which included the largest selection of just baked cakes we'd yet seen. Festooned with fresh ricotta, fruit, and other tempting toppings, how could we resist? The drive on a quiet, paved road led us past verdant fields, nut orchards and vineyards at the foot of Mt. Etna.
Amazingly, right at lunch time we spotted a picnic area attached to a restaurant with an unobstructed view of Mt Etna. The air temperature was delightfully cooler than we'd ever experienced on this island. It was quite the storybook setting for that much loved quintessential European picnic lunch of rustic bread, deeply flavored cheese and fruit. We even had wine left over from the previous evening for the full experience. An espresso from the restaurant perked us up and we were ready to take on the volcano from its gentler northern slope.
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| Mount Etna |
Amazingly, right at lunch time we spotted a picnic area attached to a restaurant with an unobstructed view of Mt Etna. The air temperature was delightfully cooler than we'd ever experienced on this island. It was quite the storybook setting for that much loved quintessential European picnic lunch of rustic bread, deeply flavored cheese and fruit. We even had wine left over from the previous evening for the full experience. An espresso from the restaurant perked us up and we were ready to take on the volcano from its gentler northern slope.
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| Parco dell'Etna |
Taormina (Sept 10, 11)
Google maps informed us that we had arrived at our destination. Right in the middle of a busy road! We had just driven on a steep, windy, traffic clogged road into Taormina. On our left a steep bank dropped straight down to the sea. To our right there was a high cement wall and above that buildings were perched on a cliff. Where exactly was our bed and breakfast? Obviously we couldn’t just stop the car. We drove onwards and came to a sharp bend where a tourist bus was heading toward us. I tucked my tummy hoping to widen the too narrow gap between our car and the road barrier. We backed up in time. The car in front of us wasn’t as lucky. The bus clipped its driver side mirror. And this was our introduction to Taormina. We arrived at Villa La Terrazza sul Mare using the walk mode on Google maps (after calling the owner and being advised to do so).
Indeed, stepping onto the terrace we could see the road down below us, and beyond that, the Ionian Sea, framed by a curvaceous coastline. It looked quite magical. Across the turquoise expanse we could see mainland Italy.
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| Taormina |
Indeed, stepping onto the terrace we could see the road down below us, and beyond that, the Ionian Sea, framed by a curvaceous coastline. It looked quite magical. Across the turquoise expanse we could see mainland Italy.
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For dinner, a harbor view enticed us to a pizzeria’s spacious terrace. We were ready to sit back and be indulged after our very full day with its share of adrenalin filled moments. This was accomplished by a tasty woodfired pizza and pleasant wine with a view of illuminated boats reflected in the sea!
We spent the next day checking off the “must-do’s” in this popular tourist destination. On our way to the ancient Greek-Roman theatre we past street vendors selling pomegranate juice. Crates of plump, rosy pomegranates were displayed in their carts. Aha! The food of the underworld! Hades is said to live under Mt. Etna which looks over this city.
Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, this ancient theatre was rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd century AD. Much of the structure was brick, not marble! We were rather disappointed to find out that the theatre is used for summer music festivals and we had just missed an opera performance. Despite the oppressive heat we were spellbound by the sea views from the site’s dramatic location up on a cliff.
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| Greek-Roman Theatre Taormina |
Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, this ancient theatre was rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd century AD. Much of the structure was brick, not marble! We were rather disappointed to find out that the theatre is used for summer music festivals and we had just missed an opera performance. Despite the oppressive heat we were spellbound by the sea views from the site’s dramatic location up on a cliff.
At Piazza del Duomo we admired the 13thcentury Duomo, the baroque fountain, and the other medieval buildings in the square.
Next on the list was Piazza IX Aprile, the largest square in the city. Here, the Torre dell'Orologio, a 12thcentury clocktower commanded the most attention. The sun beat down on us and even as we found the contrast of blue sky and stone buildings quite striking, we knew we had to escape! Hours later, after a siesta at our hotel, we returned to Piazza IX Aprile at sunset. From the edge of the square, after threading through the many tourists, we gazed out at the panorama. It's Mt Etna that first draws the eye, etched against a sky turning to golden hues. And below us the Bay of Naxos looked magical in the twilight.
The air temperature was now perfect. Cafes and bars in the square filled up creating an upbeat vibe. We grabbed a table with a decent view and continued our enjoyment of the golden hour over wine and nibbles.
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| Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina |
Next on the list was Piazza IX Aprile, the largest square in the city. Here, the Torre dell'Orologio, a 12thcentury clocktower commanded the most attention. The sun beat down on us and even as we found the contrast of blue sky and stone buildings quite striking, we knew we had to escape! Hours later, after a siesta at our hotel, we returned to Piazza IX Aprile at sunset. From the edge of the square, after threading through the many tourists, we gazed out at the panorama. It's Mt Etna that first draws the eye, etched against a sky turning to golden hues. And below us the Bay of Naxos looked magical in the twilight.
The air temperature was now perfect. Cafes and bars in the square filled up creating an upbeat vibe. We grabbed a table with a decent view and continued our enjoyment of the golden hour over wine and nibbles.
Our day in Taormina ended at Ristorant Rosmarino, recommended by the owner of our B and B.
Seated in the atmospheric courtyard we could hear English spoken all around us and learned that our fellow diners had been sent here by their hotels too! Funghi porcini featured in the specials, and so determined our dinner selections. Of course, fine food deserved fine wine, and at this point we knew this meant an Etna red. Since it wasn't available by the glass we had to order a full bottle.
As we settled into our meal a German couple, at the table next to us started a conversation with us. They were a generation older than us, but appeared remarkably youthful! For the next two hours the four of us covered topics ranging from exotic travel (they had been everywhere) to politics to wine (a passion of theirs) to California lifestyle and circled back to Sicilian travel. The food all through our energetic conversation was of stellar quality.
A creamy soup starter came with flavorful, earthy chunks of funghi porcini. The main course of marinated funghi porcini on a bed of crisp greens and adorned with fresh vegetables reflected culinary expertise, though I have to say it’s not a dish I would order again. I prefer the taste of cooked mushrooms. But the wine, oh the wine … Self-control was out of the question. Our German companion who happily sampled a glass agreed that it was excellent. At the end of the meal, eager to demonstrate his enjoyment of our company, he ordered Sambuka shots for all of us. I really didn't want any more alcohol, but felt pressured to cave to social etiquette. Of course I would regret this bitterly.
On the agenda the next day was a morning of strenuous hiking up Mt. Etna, this time from the starker, steeper southern slope to a high elevation for crater views.
As we settled into our meal a German couple, at the table next to us started a conversation with us. They were a generation older than us, but appeared remarkably youthful! For the next two hours the four of us covered topics ranging from exotic travel (they had been everywhere) to politics to wine (a passion of theirs) to California lifestyle and circled back to Sicilian travel. The food all through our energetic conversation was of stellar quality.
A creamy soup starter came with flavorful, earthy chunks of funghi porcini. The main course of marinated funghi porcini on a bed of crisp greens and adorned with fresh vegetables reflected culinary expertise, though I have to say it’s not a dish I would order again. I prefer the taste of cooked mushrooms. But the wine, oh the wine … Self-control was out of the question. Our German companion who happily sampled a glass agreed that it was excellent. At the end of the meal, eager to demonstrate his enjoyment of our company, he ordered Sambuka shots for all of us. I really didn't want any more alcohol, but felt pressured to cave to social etiquette. Of course I would regret this bitterly.
On the agenda the next day was a morning of strenuous hiking up Mt. Etna, this time from the starker, steeper southern slope to a high elevation for crater views.
Mount Etna (Sept 12)
Indeed, hiking up Mt Etna the next morning from an elevation of 2500 meters, my head felt light. We had driven to Rifugio Sapienza and from there took the funivia up to where we started our climb. A barren landscape of blackish grey rock made me feel more like an explorer than a tourist. I wondered about other dramatic landscapes out there on our planet. As we got closer and closer to the craters we gasped at the periodic curls of smoke billowing out of those gaping mouths. What was Hades up to down below? Soon, when summer was over, Persephone would return to join him at the throne of the Underworld Kingdom.
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| Mount Etna |
The climb was steep, but manageable, and had it not been for the unusually high temperature, lack of shade, and my lightheadedness we would have attempted going all the way up to a crater. When, at 2,800 meters elevation, we turned to descend we looked directly across from us and astonishingly we
we could see the mouth of a crater.
What a gratifying sight! A memory and image to hold on to. Now we were ready for our last night in Sicily.
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| Crater Mouth from 2 800 Meter Elevation |
What a gratifying sight! A memory and image to hold on to. Now we were ready for our last night in Sicily.
Catania
From Rifugio Sapienza it was a short but intense drive to Catania. Mt Etna watches over this city, Sicily's second largest. Within minutes of checking in to our very comfortable and perfectly located hotel (Il Gattopardo), we discovered that Catania was a city for the epicure. (What a surprise!!) We were starving after our morning hike and followed our noses across the road to Razmatazz for a proper sit down lunch. Oozing with atmosphere from animated diners, we eagerly settled ourselves at an outdoor table under a shady canopy of trees. What sheer pleasure to gobble up a flavorful gazpacho adorned with chunks of avocado and croutons and a black rice salad loaded with nuts and summer vegetables!
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| Fontana dell'Amenano |
I spent the afternoon sauntering up and down Via Etnea to take in the city’s highlights. I learned that after being completely destroyed and buried by Etna's eruption, followed by an earthquake in the late 1600's, the city was rebuilt. Much of the city is black and white because of the lava used in rebuilding it. At Piazza del Duomo, the main square, we sat on the steps of Fontana dell'Elefante licking our last pistachio gelato. There is no tastier flavor of ice cream in my opinion. Across from us was the marbled façade of the Cattedrale Sant’Agata. Later, I wandered over to a second attention grabbing fountain, Fontana dell'Amenano. Then, strolling down Via Eatna, past Baroque buildings, I caught glimpses of Mt. Etna. I noticed some ruins and learned that they were the remains of a 2nd century Roman temple. Further on I came to Giardino Bellini, an attractive park with formal landscaping. In these last moments of daylight there was a cheerful vibe from a mixture of locals and tourists.
At the park's highest point I gazed at the visible part of Mt. Etna. Fluffy clouds hovered over its top and were illuminated in pink hues as the sun descended. Our last evening on this island. The aria Sempre Libera from La Traviata played in my head. Bellisimo!
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| Black and white sculpture at Giardino Bellini |
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