Exploring Sicily (September 2018) Part 3

Ionian Coast

(Sept 10 - 13)

Mount Etna and Taormina

On our morning drive east to Syracuse from Piazza Armerina we had caught our first exciting glimpses of Mt. Etna. We were on a decent, quiet freeway surrounded by unremarkable scenery, when all of a sudden a grey conical mound filled up the landscape. Its clean, geometric shape beautiful against the sky. Twenty hours later, driving north from Syracuse, we followed the Lonely Planet’s suggested driving route around Etna’s western flank. Our evening destination was Taormina which lay just north of the volcano. In the little town of Bronte we picked up minutes old bread, pistachio cookies, a hunk of cheese and an enormous yellow peach (a gift from the vendor because I didn’t want the whole tray!). A light lunch would suffice after another breakfast feast from an over the top buffet spread which included the largest selection of just baked cakes we'd yet seen. Festooned with fresh ricotta, fruit, and other tempting toppings, how could we resist? The drive on a quiet, paved road led us past verdant fields, nut orchards and vineyards at the foot of Mt. Etna. 

Mount Etna

Amazingly, right at lunch time we spotted a picnic area attached to a restaurant with an unobstructed view of Mt Etna. The air temperature was delightfully cooler than we'd ever experienced on this island. It was quite the storybook setting for that much loved quintessential European picnic lunch of rustic bread, deeply flavored cheese and fruit. We even had wine left over from the previous evening for the full experience. An espresso from the restaurant perked us up and we were ready to take on the volcano from its gentler northern slope. 

Parco dell'Etna

The road curved upwards into Parco dell'Etna, ending at a parking lot. From here we hiked up a gentle trail. Black volcanic gravel crunched under our feet. I felt a deep sense of appreciation to be in this unique landscape, at once alien and familiar with fields of lava chunks bordered by pine forests. An hour or so later, as we drove out of the park, we saw a couple of men marching beside the road, having just emerged from a wooded section. They were carrying deep baskets. “Funghi porcini?” I called out. They nodded. I smiled as my epicurean fantasies unfurled.

Taormina (Sept 10, 11)

Google maps informed us that we had arrived at our destination. Right in the middle of a busy road! We had just driven on a steep, windy, traffic clogged road into Taormina. On our left a steep bank dropped straight down to the sea. To our right there was a high cement wall and above that buildings were perched on a cliff. Where exactly was our bed and breakfast? Obviously we couldn’t just stop the car. We drove onwards and came to a sharp bend where a tourist bus was heading toward us. I tucked my tummy hoping to widen the too narrow gap between our car and the road barrier. We backed up in time. The car in front of us wasn’t as lucky. The bus clipped its driver side mirror. And this was our introduction to Taormina. We arrived at Villa La Terrazza sul Mare using the walk mode on Google maps (after calling the owner and being advised to do so). 

Taormina

Indeed, stepping onto the terrace we could see the road down below us, and beyond that, the Ionian Sea, framed by a curvaceous coastline. It looked quite magical. Across the turquoise expanse we could see mainland Italy.

No wonder DH Lawrence made this neighborhood his home for a short while. In our evening meander through the town’s glamorous historic center it was obvious that this was a super touristy resort town. Boutique lined Corso Umberto had a vibrancy and glamor similar to Tuscan towns. We peeked into souvenir shops and browsed the menus of overpriced restaurants.

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For dinner, a harbor view enticed us to a pizzeria’s spacious terrace. We were ready to sit back and be indulged after our very full day with its share of adrenalin filled moments. This was accomplished by a tasty woodfired pizza and pleasant wine with a view of illuminated boats reflected in the sea!

We spent the next day checking off the “must-do’s” in this popular tourist destination. On our way to the ancient Greek-Roman theatre we past street vendors selling pomegranate juice. Crates of plump, rosy pomegranates were displayed in their carts. Aha! The food of the underworld! Hades is said to live under Mt. Etna which looks over this city. 

Greek-Roman Theatre Taormina

Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, this ancient theatre was rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd century AD. Much of the structure was brick, not marble! We were rather disappointed to find out that the theatre is used for summer music festivals and we had just missed an opera performance. Despite the oppressive heat we were spellbound by the sea views from the site’s dramatic location up on a cliff.

At Piazza del Duomo we admired the 13^thcentury Duomo, the baroque fountain, and the other medieval buildings in the square. 

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina

Next on the list was Piazza IX Aprile, the largest square in the city. Here, the Torre dell'Orologio, a 12^thcentury clocktower commanded the most attention. The sun beat down on us and even as we found the contrast of blue sky and stone buildings quite striking, we knew we had to escape! Hours later, after a siesta at our hotel, we returned to Piazza IX Aprile at sunset. From the edge of the square, after  threading through the many tourists, we gazed out at the panorama. It's Mt Etna that first draws the eye, etched against a sky turning to golden hues. And below us the Bay of Naxos looked magical in the twilight. 
The air temperature was now perfect. Cafes and bars in the square filled up creating an upbeat vibe. We grabbed a table with a decent view and continued our enjoyment of the golden hour over wine and nibbles.

Our day in Taormina ended at Ristorant Rosmarino, recommended by the owner of our B and B. 

Seated in the atmospheric courtyard we could hear English spoken all around us and learned that our fellow diners had been sent here by their hotels too! Funghi porcini featured in the specials, and so determined our dinner selections. Of course, fine food deserved fine wine, and at this point we knew this meant an Etna red. Since it wasn't available by the glass we had to order a full bottle. 
As we settled into our meal a German couple, at the table next to us started a conversation with us. They were a generation older than us, but appeared remarkably youthful! For the next two hours the four of us covered topics ranging from exotic travel (they had been everywhere) to politics to wine (a passion of theirs) to California lifestyle and circled back to Sicilian travel. The food all through our energetic conversation was of stellar quality. 

A creamy soup starter came with flavorful, earthy chunks of funghi porcini. The main course of marinated funghi porcini on a bed of crisp greens and adorned with fresh vegetables reflected culinary expertise, though I have to say it’s not a dish I would order again. I prefer the taste of cooked mushrooms. But the wine, oh the wine … Self-control was out of the question. Our German companion who happily sampled a glass agreed that it was excellent. At the end of the meal, eager to demonstrate his enjoyment of our company, he ordered Sambuka shots for all of us. I really didn't want any more alcohol, but felt pressured to cave to social etiquette. Of course I would regret this bitterly.

On the agenda the next day was a morning of strenuous hiking up Mt. Etna, this time from the starker, steeper southern slope to a high elevation for crater views. 

Mount Etna (Sept 12)

Indeed, hiking up Mt Etna the next morning from an elevation of 2500 meters, my head felt light. We had driven to Rifugio Sapienza and from there took the funivia up to where we started our climb. A barren landscape of blackish grey rock made me feel more like an explorer than a tourist. I wondered about other dramatic landscapes out there on our planet. As we got closer and closer to the craters we gasped at the periodic curls of smoke billowing out of those gaping mouths. What was Hades up to down below? Soon, when summer was over, Persephone would return to join him at the throne of the Underworld Kingdom.

Mount Etna

The climb was steep, but manageable, and had it not been for the unusually high temperature, lack of shade, and my lightheadedness we would have attempted going all the way up to a crater. When, at 2,800 meters elevation, we turned to descend we looked directly across from us and astonishingly we

we could see the mouth of a crater. 

Crater Mouth from 2 800 Meter Elevation

What a gratifying sight! A memory and image to hold on to. Now we were ready for our last night in Sicily.

Catania

From Rifugio Sapienza it was a short but intense drive to Catania. Mt Etna watches over this city, Sicily's second largest. Within minutes of checking in to our very comfortable and perfectly located hotel (Il Gattopardo), we discovered that Catania was a city for the epicure. (What a surprise!!) We were starving after our morning hike and followed our noses across the road to Razmatazz for a proper sit down lunch. Oozing with atmosphere from animated diners, we eagerly settled ourselves at an outdoor table under a shady canopy of trees. What sheer pleasure to gobble up a flavorful gazpacho adorned with chunks of avocado and croutons and a black rice salad loaded with nuts and summer vegetables!

Fontana dell'Amenano

I spent the afternoon sauntering up and down Via Etnea to take in the city’s highlights. I learned that after being completely destroyed and buried by Etna's eruption, followed by an earthquake in the late 1600's, the city was rebuilt. Much of the city is black and white because of the lava used in rebuilding it. At Piazza del Duomo, the main square, we sat on the steps of Fontana dell'Elefante licking our last pistachio gelato. There is no tastier flavor of ice cream in my opinion. Across from us was the marbled façade of the Cattedrale Sant’Agata. Later, I wandered over to a second attention grabbing fountain, Fontana dell'Amenano. Then, strolling down Via Eatna, past Baroque buildings, I caught glimpses of Mt. Etna. I noticed some ruins and learned that they were the remains of a 2nd century Roman temple. Further on I came to Giardino Bellini, an attractive park with formal landscaping. In these last moments of daylight there was a cheerful vibe from a mixture of locals and tourists. 
At the park's highest point I gazed at the visible part of Mt. Etna. Fluffy clouds hovered over its top and were illuminated in pink hues as the sun descended. Our last evening on this island. The aria Sempre Libera from La Traviata played in my head. Bellisimo!

Black and white sculpture at Giardino Bellini

Exploring Sicily (September 2018) Part 2

The Mediterranean Coast and Eastern Sicily

Sept (7 - 9)

Selinunte

We drove on an unexpectedly pleasant freeway southwest from Marsala to the Mediterranean Sea to explore the ruins of an ancient Greek city from 2500 years ago. Trekking around the Selinunte complex in the scorching afternoon heat was unimaginable. Luckily, a tourist mini-train transported us to the East temples, the best preserved part of this park. Between towering Doric columns, I gazed at the hazy sea, just a shade darker than the sky. A glorious location! 

Selinunte Acropolis

The train then deposited us at the acropolis, half a mile uphill to the west. There wasn't much to do apart from scramble through rock piles and imagine how the original structure was used in ancient times. 

Back on our route to Agrigento, our evening destination, we were dismayed to find ourselves on a congested two lane highway. Aggressive Sicilian drivers made this stretch along the Mediterranean Coast a stressful one. 

Agrigento

To get to our accommodation, Villa San Marco, we had to drive through the soulless built up town center of Agrigento. Unbroken rows of high rise apartments with no consideration for aesthetics. Just past the town center our GPS directed us to turn into a narrow gravel lane. Imprinted on one of the two pillars at the lane entrance was the name of a historical museum. Were we on a private road? Should we back up to the main road? Heavy traffic at high speeds ruled out that option. We proceeded on the lane. Our GPS happily encouraged us on. Now we were surrounded by olive trees, citrus groves and almond orchards. 
Within minutes we arrived at Villa San Marco, our Bed and Breakfast. Blissfully remote, yet a short distance from that dense, built up town we had driven through, and just half a mile from the Valley of Temples, Sicily’s most significant archeological site. What a relief to get off the unpleasant roads and town and find ourselves in a delightful garden setting with peacocks running around. From our bedroom window we had an unobstructed view of the Templo della Concordia, the most intact structure in the historic park. After settling in, we confronted a dilemma. With the sun low in the sky it was the perfect time of day to tour the site. 

Villa San Marco

On the other hand, who could resist a refreshing pool in a vibrant garden after a long and full day? It was a Kiekergaard moment. Either decision would be regretted. So we donned bathing suits and indulged all our senses. Cool water on our skins, birdsong, intoxicating flower scents, and best of all, an amazing view of the temple complex across groves and orchards. 
Before dinner we chatted with an English couple in the garden. They'd arrived by ... train. "Train?" we asked, utterly baffled. They explained that they boarded the Eurostar in London, and after a few train changes reached the bottom of Italy where their train was taken by ferry across to Messina. From there they continued by train to Catania. The last bit to Villa San Marco had to be a taxi ride they admitted. These train enthusiasts shared other memorable journeys with us. The Trans Siberian Express from St. Petersburg to Beijing was one they particularly enjoyed.

Dinner was an unforgettable experience. A rustic 3 course home-cooked Sicilian meal, expertly prepared by the owners of Villa San Marco. From the dining terrace the illuminated Templo della Concordia was on full display, a glittering jewel framed by velvety darkness. 

Tempio della Concordia (Valley of the Temples)

A gratifying view for a drawn out meal accompanied by a bottle of eminently quaffable local red wine. What a bargain of a meal for €20 per person! Rare for us we actually drank the entire bottle of wine over dinner! An intense, interesting, wonderful and unforgettable day, which happened to be my birthday.

Tempio della Concordia

But, as predicted, the next morning we cursed ourselves as we trudged in sweltering heat through an ancient city in ruins. Downhill, thankfully, having hopped on the handy bus from the carpark which deposited us at the top entrance of the Valley of Temples Archeological Park. If only we’d done this the previous day in the early evening… Nevertheless, the 2500 year old Greek marvel in full sunlight was a splendid sight. Close up, I was taken by the striking palette of colors. Sandstone walls and columns lit up into warm hues, surrounded by silvery green olive trees and set against a vibrant sky with the shimmering Mediterranean in the background. 

Piazza Armerina
A relatively easy drive on a good freeway, got us inland into central Sicily. 

Mosaic design - Villa Romana del Casale

We spent the afternoon in the blissful interior of Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina. Here, we saw astounding Roman mosaic floor designs ranging from mythological creatures to women in bikinis to African game hunting scenes. 
A mudslide in the 12^thcentury kept this palace hidden and the mosaics protected for seven hundred years. Meandering through two floors of two interconnected buildings, we stepped back in time when the Roman royalty lived their lavish lives.

In the evening on a stroll through the small, medieval heart of Piazza Armerina I found it hard to believe we were in Italy. It felt so much more like the developing world, as did much of the Sicily we'd seen so far. Centuries old buildings and paved lanes begged to be repaired and cleaned up. But a sense of local pride was displayed in decorative lights strung across the central streets. Emerging out of disheveled lanes we were pleasantly surprised to see elegant baroque buildings lining piazzas.  The Duomo in the main piazza was quite a striking sight with its towering dome and undecorated façade. It was a Friday night. Spirited locals wandered about or careened through narrow lanes in cars or bikes. Tourists didn't overnight here, preferring more exciting destinations after checking out the Roman mosaics.

Duomo Piazza Armerina

At a reasonably atmospheric restaurant behind the main cathedral we sampled Pasta alla Norma, a typical Sicilian dish found on every menu on the island. A thick sauce made with eggplant, tomatoes and basil blanketed a bed of silky pasta. Scoops of fresh ricotta, topped the mound. Hmmm! Could this be a representation of a famous volcano? The other dish, a bubbling, smoky woodfired pizza, met with our absurdly high expectations. We regretted our wine choice though. A carafe of the house red, rough and syrupy, did not at all complement this superb meal.

Our accommodation, Villa Clementine, located at the edge of town, had a countryside feel. Surrounded by an attractive terraced garden with a pool, it was perfect for R and R. Our room, tasteful and welcoming, was beside the pool in a separate building to the main house. Too bad we had only a short time here. In the morning we, along with two other couples, were seated around a farmhouse style table in an airy dining room. A feast prepared by Rita, the owner, awaited us. In addition to freshly baked pastries, warm bread, home made jams, local honey, fresh fruit, and cheeses, she cooked up a fluffy spinach omelette. Coffee and fresh fruit juices ensured total satisfaction. And thus, another interesting destination was checked off our itinerary.

Syracuse

Did I mention that this trip has turned into a culinary journey too? That realization returned as I drooled at the two plates of fragrant, freshly prepared arancini that just arrived at our outside terrace table in Ortygia. Our eyes popped wide open at the pair of golden, pyramid shapes and a pair of smaller spheres. Twice the amount we expected, and way too much for us! It was over an hour past lunch time and we were ravenous. Much had happened in the hours since Rita's extravagant breakfast at Villa Clementine. We'd driven into Syracuse and had spent two absorbing hours exploring the 5^thcentury Greek Theatre in unshaded heat. 

Greek Theater Syracuse

We had walked all around admiring this large, white marbled structure from different angles. Above the Greek theatre a series of caves commanded attention too. I was fascinated by a waterfall inside one of them. In the same park is the Garden of Paradise. Pleasant, with shrubs and trees, and when you walk through, alongside citrus trees, you come to a series of limestone grottos. 

Grotto at Garden of Paradise

These were used as prisons by cruel rulers. The most well known grotto is called the Ear of Dionysius. It’s 23 meters high and extends 65 meters into the Cliffside.

After this full morning of tourist stuff, we wanted lunch to be a relaxed, sit down experience. This was why we headed to Ortygia. Almost as soon as we crossed over the bridge from mainland Syracuse, we were tempted by food choices in every direction. It was the specific mention of vegan and vegetarian that drew us to this tiny eatery specializing in made to order arancini. 
We tore into the still steaming arancini, each uniquely composed of interesting vegetables, herbs, cheeses and flavorings like lemon juice and saffron. Against our better judgement we kept eating until they were gone. A light beer eased the process. My tummy felt like it was about to explode. 

To work off those calories we intended to do a lot more walking than we had done in the morning. We’d heard a lot about Ortygia’s vibrant, mostly pedestrianized historic center, and its impressive Baroque architecture. After a quick look at the ruins of the Temple of Apollo we penetrated the maze of alleyways. We strolled through polished narrow, cobbled lanes peeking at souvenirs and regional wines, catching whiffs of coffee and baked goods. On this Sunday afternoon an upbeat atmosphere emanated from the huge number of tourists, far more than we’d seen in the western part of the island. 

Piazza del Duomo

Ortigia’s showy Baroque architecture and glitzy stores revealed an opulence visibly absent in most of the Sicily we'd seen. At Archimedes Square we had to wait for a line of tourists photographing selfies before we were able to get a full view of the stunning Fountain of Diana.

Statue of Archimedes

The statue of Archimedes had us recalling the Eureka(!) moment. Continuing along Via Roma we came to the main square framed by several breathtaking baroque buildings. The Duomo’s columned façade was stunning. It acquired this current Baroque style after the earthquake of 1693. Doric columns from the original Greek temple have been incorporated into the structure. 

The heat was unpleasant, but we dutifully wandered on, to the island's southern tip to see the stone castle. At this picturesque spot we found a stone bench to rest our weary legs and watch locals relaxing and cooling off on their boats in the blue, blue water.

In the early evening the area livened up even more with la passeggiata. We were still feeling stuffed from our absurdly big lunch. A sit down restaurant dinner was out of the question. So we gathered salad stuff from a grocery store and selected a local red wine from one of those fancy wine shops.

Our accommodation was a few miles out of car free Ortigia, in the middle of farmland. At Dolce Casa, in addition to convenient parking, we had a spacious room in an immaculate house with lots of character. And the big, landscaped garden provided the perfect setting to sample a wine made from a grape varietal unique to Sicily. Nerello Mascalese. From the fertile volcanic slopes of Mount Etna.And what a beauty it was! Neither dry nor fruity, its distinct flavor was utterly, utterly satisfying.   Naturally, our thoughts turned to Europe's largest active volcano, where we were headed next.

Exploring Sicily (Sept 2018) Part 1

A Car Journey Around the Island ...

September in Europe presented the opportunity to venture way south to Italy’s football suspended in the Mediterranean near its toe. Surely with summer on the wane, Sicily’s heat wouldn't be intolerable? Over the years friends had enthused about the island’s archeological sites, its layered architecture, its natural beauty, and of course, its legendary gastronomy. A destination bound to please. Enlisting the advice of friends who knew Sicily well, we designed an itinerary for a nine day car trip. We were maybe too ambitious. A new destination each day, from west to south to east. Starting in Palermo we drove west to Segesta and Erice. Then we headed south to Agrigento for the Valley of the Temples. Next, we veered inland to Piazza Armerina to see the famous mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale. From here we drove to the east coast, starting in Syracuse. Taormina came next which we reached via the western flank of Mt Etna and our journey ended in Catania after climbing up Europe's largest active volcano.

Palermo and Monreale (Sept 4, 5)

Our day in Sicily's dynamic, unpretentious capital began with a scrumptious lunch at a lively, somewhat scruffy piazza in the Old Town. Scarfing down crispy mini arancini and flavorful eggplant caponata acquired from a street food vendor we had no doubt we'd arrived in food paradise. Our energy fully restored we were ready to take on Palermo's main sights. 

The late summer heat beat down on us as we headed toward the top tourist attraction, Palazzo di Normanni. Down busy Corso Vittorio Emanuel we came to Quattro Canti, a famous intersection marking the city’s heart. A curved, three tiered late Renaissance façade graced each corner. Adorned with columns and statues, these structures were an arresting sight. 

A little further on we peeked into a bakery and were blown away by the display of Sicilian pastries – cassata, ricotta filled cannoli, pistachio and almond cookies, marzipan shapes and an assortment of tempting cakes. The chocolate dipped cannoli and cookies we sampled were exquisite. 

Mercato Ballaró

We detoured to the Mercato Ballaró where Sicily’s bounty was showcased. Mountains of tomatoes, glossy eggplants, melons, olives, grapes, prickly pears (?), almonds, pistachios, spices, and herbs (fresh and dry). We so regretted not having kitchen access. 

Arriving at the Palazzo di Normanni in the middle of the afternoon we, along with a cluster of tourists, squinted at a completely shut entrance. We sauntered around the complex in search of other ways to enter this stately palace in use today by Sicily’s parliament. No luck. We’d have to miss out on the golden mosaics of the Cappella Palatina, a famous chapel within this building. 

Palazzo di Normanni

The exterior, Arab Norman style from around the 10^th– 12^thcenturies, was most impressive. Our slog in the heat was not in vain. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon following the Lonely Planet’s guided walking tour of the historic quarter. Back up busy Corso Vittorio Emanuel via the graceful Porta Nuova, we soon arrived at another architectural marvel, Palermo Cathedral. A divine pistachio gelato cooled us off as we studied this example of Sicily’s Arab-Norman architectural style from an attractively landscaped front garden.

Fountain at Piazza Pretoria

At Piazza Pretoria, its centerpiece massive fountain was quite a source of entertainment. You had to smile at the many naked mythological figures, in a square surrounded by imposing churches. Nearby, at Piazza Bellini, we walked up some steps to La Martorana, a 12th century church originally planned as a mosque. Due to a wedding party we were unable to enjoy the famous mosaics in the interior. 

La Martorana

Instead, we studied the stone exterior, its columns and arches and design work on tiles.

The guided walk led us to Via Paternostro where we came to Piazza San Francesco d’Assissi. We had to stop to admire the Renaissance style buildings. Most breathtaking was the Oratorio di San Lorenzo due to its remarkable stucco work. The Antica Focacceria S. Francesco also caught our attention. 

Dating back to 1834 (according to a plaque on the door), it has been owned by 5 generations of Sicilians! Looping back to our hotel we past more interesting churches, the archeological museum and the Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house. We loved that the streets surrounding the opera house were named after famous composers.

Eggplant Parmesan at Bebop Restaurant

Our day in Palermo concluded with a magnificent five course meal at Bebop Restaurant, located just a block from our hotel. American jazz music and pictures of famous jazz artists set an ambience of contemporary rather than Old World. Our sampler vegetarian menu riffed on Sicilian dishes, transforming the traditional to ultra trendy. What sheer indulgence to be served a series of skillfully prepared dishes featuring high quality ingredients! Two pasta courses appeared, one tossed in exquisite pesto sauce and the other in a lighter, tomato based sauce. We sampled Grillo, a popular Sicilian white wine, and a medium red, both complementing the meal splendidly.

From Palermo to Monreale

Tonic Hotel worked well for us for our first night in Sicily. We loved its location at the edge of Palermo's historic quarter and close to the upmarket shopping and dining of the modern part of the city. The hotel felt intimate with lots of Old World charm seen in its marbled staircase and elegantly furnished rooms. And in the morning the breakfast buffet spread of fresh baked pastries, tarts, fruit, cheeses, eggs, and juices put us right into vacation mode. What a delight to have strong cappuccinos served at our table! 
It was Day 2 of our Sicily exploration and we were ready to start our driving adventure. Picking up our rental car from the train station, less than two miles from our hotel, proved more troublesome than necessary. Boarding the wrong bus (don’t ask!) we went further and further away from the station! Deploying problem solving skills we eventually drove a Smart car out of Palermo well before lunch. 

Within minutes we realized that the speed maniacs we had encountered on the Amalfi Coast years ago were tame in comparison to Sicilian drivers! It took some adrenalin filled moments for us to get on the road to Monreale, our first stop 8 km away. “Not the freeway?” Daryl groaned when I yelled not to enter the ramp, and directed him up the windy Monte Caputo road. Sicily’s geologic history unfolded in steep gradients and a rugged coastline. The Cattedrale di Monreale, a 12^thcentury Norman monument commissioned by William II, stood at the top of a hill. 

Cattedrale di Monreale

We spent an hour gasping and exclaiming at interior walls covered in Byzantine style mosaic art depicting biblical stories. 

Mosaics inside Cattedrale di Monreale

The story of Adam and Eve was especially well illustrated. A prominent Jesus portrait drew my attention. As did the ornately designed ceiling which my neck did not appreciate with all that awkward bending! We climbed up marble stairs through an arched, thick walled stairwell to the bell tower. On the way we caught a bird’s eye-view of the formal garden layout in the courtyard. From the top we gasped at how built up Palermo was. Beyond the expanse of red tiled roofs the Bay of Conca d'Oro sparkled. We also enjoyed a close up of the cathedral’s exterior red tiles and domes. 
To better appreciate this Norman cathedral's architecture, which included Arab, Byzantine and Classical elements, we chose a lunch place with a view. There really could not have been a better setting for our first traditional Sicilian style pizza! Gooey cheese over herby sauce on a chewy base. A calorie loaded meal that our starved tummies craved. And the Cathedral against a cerulean sky was simply magnificent.

The drive out of Monreale was less hair raising and once we arrived on the coast road, the blueness of the sea which matched the sky worked like a balm. Turning toward the interior we became immersed in bucolic scenery. Vineyards and orchards formed a patchwork of designs on contoured terrain. 

Countryside around Segesta

Segesta (Sept 5, 6)

Our Bed and Breakfast, in the midst of picturesque countryside, was just a few miles from Segesta, an important archeological site. As we pulled into the driveway of La Suite di Segesta we could see just beyond it an ugly industrial structure with big metal tanks and pipes. How odd! We learned after checking in that it was a wine making facility, and the owners were members of that cooperative. We instantly fell in love with our B and B. It was one of those old farmhouses that was home to many previous generations. Outdoor tables and benches were terribly inviting in the magnificent garden and pool area. It was late afternoon and we found ourselves in a dilemma. Should we head out to see the ancient temple late in the day as it cooled off? Or should we go for a swim in that enticing pool? Or should we go shopping for a picnic dinner to enjoy in the lovely garden with mountain views? We noticed in the dining area there was local co-op wine for just €6 a bottle. Surely the temple could wait until the next morning? This was vacation after all. We could allow ourselves a lazy evening. So we drove five miles to the closest village, Calatafimi. With the afternoon siesta over, the town buzzed with locals shopping or sitting on benches. Devoid of tourist glitz, it felt authentic, more reflective of Sicily's modest economy. In the midst of characterless storefronts we found a well stocked grocery market. Gastronomy was a serious matter here, making food shopping at a grocery market a blissful experience.

Dinner beside the pool featured local cheeses (pecorino and fresh ricotta), sweet, ripe tomatoes, marinated artichokes, overly salted olives, crunchy grapes and crusty bread. The wine, a Grillo, was faultless. A pleasant evening temperature bolstered the charm factor. As did the golden hued horizon as the sun disappeared.

In the morning, after a hearty Italian breakfast, we headed up a windy road. A short while later the magnificent Doric temple of Segesta appeared, up on a hill, an isolated structure completely surrounded by semi-arid rural landscape. What an amazing sight! The heat, even at 9:00 in the morning, was already unbearable. From the parking lot we boarded a bus up the mountain from the temple to see the third century Greek amphitheatre gouged into a cliff. I walked down to the stage area and imagined plays performed for an audience distracted by breathtaking views that sweep out all the way to the sea.

On the walk downhill, in oppressive heat, we paused periodically to marvel at each new temple view. This unfinished structure from 2,500 years ago and still mostly intact, exerted a commanding presence in this isolated setting.

Segesta

Back in our Smart car we wound down a scenic road to the coast. A blue green sea and curvaceous coastline had us mesmerized. At lunchtime we happened to spot a wooded park by the roadside near Scopello. 

We pulled up to a picnic table with a perfect sea view and devoured dinner leftovers. 
Our next stop was Scopello, a cute seaside town with an irresistable beach. A brief dip in the tepid water was sensational, augmented by views of tall, pointed rocks up the coast. The sky suddenly clouded over and a light shower had us scooting back to the car.

Erice (Sept 6)

We veered inland onto SS187. A steep climb and an endless series of hairpin bends brought us to Erice at the top of a cliff. 
After checking in at La Pinete Hotel located near the gate to the Old Town, we made a beeline for Italy's most famous bakery. The Genovese and Sicilian Cassata were recommended so that's what we ordered. After fifteen blissful minutes in the back garden of Maria Grammatico Pasticceria we too felt sure that there couldn't be tastier pastries anywhere else in Italy! We spent the afternoon wandering through this walled medieval town with well preserved historic architecture. Erice appeared prosperous. Everything gleamed and sparkled and the town was full of tourists. On our way to Erice Castle, also known as Venus Castle, we noticed paintings of sensuous women displayed in public areas. An allusion to a wild past. Our tour of Erice Castle was quick since, apart from the entrance stone facade, the structure was just a pile of ruins. The only standing part was the Daedalus Wall. The sea views from our altitude of 750 meters were far more entertaining. 

Erice Castle

We left the castle and sauntered along the cliff for breathtaking views. A lush, wooded slope descended all the way down to the sea. We could see the port town of Trapani, and just above it, but below us, a cloud of fog was rapidly swirling and thickening. Within minutes Trapani, and everything else below us, was hidden in a thick, white cloud. 

The attractive gardens surrounding the castle invited a stroll. From a particular part, near the edge of the cliff, sunset, we were told, was not to be missed. So, through a cluster of tourists we nabbed a spot from where we could admire the horizon's changing colors as the sun began to vanish. The fog had completely disappeared, and it all looked quite gorgeous.

Dinner time and another opportunity to indulge in Sicily's fine gastronomy.

At Gli Archi di San Carlo we dined in its cave like interior of stone walls and a low ceiling. Warm bread inside a brown paper bag arrived at our table soon after we were seated. The first course was an antipasti sampler (wild fennel, fried goat cheese, eggplant parmesan, caponata, pizzeta). For mains we had busiate (regional pasta) in tomato sauce and creamy gnocchi. Everything was freshly made, with robust flavors. The local red wine we chose with this meal confirmed our impressions of Sicily's exciting wine scene.

Breakfast at La Pinete Hotel was even more lavish than our previous ones. A bigger variety of fresh baked exquisite pastries (one filled with sorbet) and cakes, as well as a large spread of savory items meant overstuffing ourselves. The setting of the breakfast terrace with stunning sea views from the edge of a cliff, made it even more special. Our request for a second cappuccino was enthusiastically received. Could breakfast get any better? 

Gate into Marsala's Historic Core

Marsala

On the drive south to Marsala there were fewer hairpin bends and the road quickly widened. We entered this walled city through a grand gate, its prosperity flaunted in marbled lanes and baroque architecture. In a shady courtyard, beside a beautiful, baroque fountain, we submitted to our curiosity about the existence of drinkable marsala. Enotecas all over town invited tastings as if the beverage was to be taken seriously. It wasn't even noon yet when we sampled a surprisingly dry and pleasant wine. 
As we headed back to the car, armed with lunch purchases from a produce market, my thoughts were on food and drink. How much they had dominated our experiences in Sicily so far. When we planned this trip it was the presence of ancient Greek temples that aroused our interest. Perhaps it shouldn't surprise us that this has also become a culinary journey.