Summer Vacation 2019 - Part 3 - Innsbruck and Salzburg

Innsbruck

August 13 - 15

Nobody raves about Innsbruck. It's convenience to the Dolomites, our main focus, was the sole reason Daryl, Troy and I found ourselves in this unflashy city for two nights. But with its delightful setting in an emerald valley sliced by the River Inn, and overlooked by the splendid Austrian Alps our time here was pretty enjoyable. A heavy downpour on our arrival prevented us from absorbing the city's midsummer evening atmosphere so we compensated by treating ourselves to an evening of fine dining. Internet research led us to Sitzwohl Restaurant where we were pampered by stellar service and cuisine to delight the epicure. Notably, an exquisite chanterelle risotto for the main course. I found out later that it was a one Michelin Starred restaurant.

We awoke to a sunny morning. Perfect for exploring the Old Town on a self-guided walking tour. We headed first to the Botanical Gardens just a few minutes away from our Airbnb. The many majestic trees, like the Catalpa, were impressive.

Innsbruck lies in a valley surrounded by the Austrian Alps. From a bridge - the River Inn, tall, neo-Gothic architecture

We headed to the river, admired its size, the bridges, and the neo-gothic buildings lining its banks, then crossed over to an uninteresting neighborhood. We looped back to the old town across a pedestrian bridge and arrived at the market hall. Outside there were lively cafes and inside rows of stalls displayed summer produce, cheeses, olives, breads and other tempting stuff. So of course we gathered lunch supplies and marched back toward our Airbnb. En route through the Aldstadt I noticed a food truck displaying large mounds of healthy chanterelles. Two men were churning out risotto and crépes heaped with these earthy fungi and a long line of customers waited patiently. Naturally I had to grab a scoop of these cherished wild mushrooms which I could easily sauté at the Airbnb. What a feast our midday meal turned out to be!

The Nordkette Mountain Range reached by funicular and ski lift

Though Innsbruck is a city with a distinct urban vibe, escaping into the mountains from the center takes just minutes. A funicular zipped us up to a ski lift station and from there we hopped into a cable car which deposited us high above the city in the Austrian Alps. We had an invigorating walk up a trail and drank in stupendous mountain and valley views the whole time. An easy downhill trek returned us to town. This was our introduction to a week in the mountains.

Salzburg, Austria

After a week of hiking in the mountains we returned to an Austrian city. This time to the more exalted place of Mozart's birth (a fact drummed into the visitor at every opportunity).

They won't let you forget that Mozart was born in this city

Positive experiences characterized our time in Salzburg.

First there was our Airbnb on the third floor of a charming historic building. Owned by generations dating back a few centuries, the luxurious interior depicted the family's history. They had been antiques dealers and art collectors and relics provided character and fine touches to the very spacious and comfortable apartment.

Stepping out of the building we found ourselves in the heart of the Old Town. The annual Salzburg Music Festival was in full swing, creating a buzz all over the city.

Our first meal was a hit. The Green Garden, a tiny restaurant with pleasant outdoor seating, served inventive vegetarian global cuisine! Loved my tacos stuffed with flavorful vegetables. The local white wine we sampled was really good too. Unfortunately we didn't succeed in replicating tasty dinners the following two nights.


On a self-guided walking tour of the city the next day we meandered through cobbled lanes that led us to the main squares. After taking in the Baroque architecture of significant buildings we headed to the river and strolled along the bank. We then entered a forest, and then uphill to the Museum of Modern Art for views. Further up we reached the Hohensalzburg Fortress that watches over the city from a hilltop. We gazed at the panorama below, impressed again at the city's beauty derived from its location as well as its architecture. 

Salzburg's picturesque setting

Our self-guided tour continued the next day across the river to the commercial heart of the modern town. We did a lot of stair climbing to high points for different perspectives of the city. However, a sudden storm aborted our plans. We took shelter under the stone arches of a historic building and when the storm abated we crossed the vibrant Mirabelle Gardens to return to the Old Town.

Lucky to find shelter from that torrential downpour!

Mirabelle Gardens

On a visit to Salzburg you cannot and should not avoid Mozart Chocolate balls. Each day we sampled them from different retailers. They were all divine though we were told the authentic ones made with pistachio paste rather than marzipan were superior.

The highlight of our 3 day Salzburg visit was undoubtedly an evening at the concert hall. It had been a dream of mine to attend this prestigious music festival which attracts the world's top classical artists and symphonies. Though we were unable to get tickets for the opera Salomé, we were lucky to get tickets for Mahler's Symphony 5 conducted by Daniel Barenboim. 

At the Salzburg Festival Concert Hall

The tickets were a splurge. We joined the rich and elite for an evening of pure pleasure. Every second of this sublime symphony was joyful. An evening to treasure forever.

Salzburg is one of those cities I'd love to return to again and again.

Epilogue

Our return flight to London after three days in Salzburg was out of Munich in the evening. An efficient train ride zipped us to the Bavarian capital. We stored our luggage at the station and planned to spend the day ambling around the Aldstadt, taking in the major sights. But an oppressive heatwave narrowed our options down to a leisurely Sunday lunch. That's how we ended up at Prinz Myshkin, a top vegetarian restaurant with an international, especially Asian, slant. Crespelle al Forno (stuffed buckwheat crepes), baked zucchini blossoms, and a vegan burger worked well to distract us from the heat. We managed to catch Munich's monuments on our amble back to the station.

Mariensäule Marienplatz in Munich

In London the highlight would have to be Hamilton. Yes, we actually got to see this famous musical. So it wasn't the Broadway production, but the London cast was stellar. And the newly restored Victoria Palace Theatre was such a luxurious venue. Air-conditioned too, thank god(!) since London was brutally hot that day.

Our last evening of vacation was utterly beautiful. On the upstairs balcony of The Queens in Primrose Hill we caught up with  Gil, Tasha and Cormac over IPA and yummy share plates. At sunset we sauntered over to the park to take in London's skyline, a breathtaking view.

London skyline from Primrose Hill Park at sunset

With the air so balmy, and the company so delightful, there could not have been a better way to end a vacation.

Summer Vacation 2019 - Part 2 - The Dolomites

A Week in the Mountains

August 15 - 22, 2019

Innsbruck was our gateway into the Dolomites. Troy, Daryl and I were in a rental car headed to a farm south of Brixen. An easy drive through alpine scenery. Just across the Austrian border we made a lunch stop in Vipiteno, a cute mountain village.

Vipitano

On this public holiday a band played upbeat music in the medieval town square. Outdoor restaurant tables buzzed with happy diners. We ambled over to the shopping stretch lined by colorful buildings, a stone clocktower at one end, mountain slopes at the other end. Though we were in Italy it was German we could hear, and Austrian staples featured on menus. Lunch in the atmospheric main square affirmed our vacation mode, but I regretted my choice of dumplings which were stodgy and tasteless. Daryl and Troy were quite happy with their soups.

Back on the autostrada we drove over the Brenner Pass, then past Brixen we exited onto a narrow road that ascended into the mountains to the village of Latzfons. We spent four nights in a chalet like apartment at Agriturismo Gosthof, a working dairy farm in the Sarntal Alps. A tranquil, remote, breathtaking setting. 

From our balcony we see these Dolomites Peaks

The balcony instantly became our favorite part of the apartment. On our first evening we witnessed the full lifespan of an electric storm. We were sipping schnapps after a pasta dinner, gazing at the Dolomites peaks against a mostly blue sky when we heard a rumbling which sounded like thunder. Lightning flashes confirmed our suspicion that a storm was about to erupt on the other side of the mountain range to our right. Weird to hear it but not see it! Minutes later the storm migrated to our side of the mountains. From our safe, cosy balcony we gasped at the downpour, inhaled the sweet earthy smells and shuddered at the ominous lightening patterns. Then minutes later the storm headed west.

Sarntal Alps

Each day we hiked on trails in different parts of the area. Our first hike in the nearby Sarntal Alps required a skillful, slow drive up a narrow, windy road to the trailhead. The weather was glorious with no sign of the storm from the previous night. We walked up a gentle slope with the goal of reaching a church at an altitude of 2,300 meters. For 3 hours we were in the midst of undulating, emerald green slopes and dairy pastures. The shapely Dolomites with their distinct grayness framed the horizon and we kept stopping to admire them.

Val Gardena

We spent a day hiking in the Alpe di Suis. From the town of Suis where we parked the car, a long, long cable ride deposited us in Compatsch, situated high up in the Dolomites. From there we took another cable car further up. This meant hiking on a mainly downhill trail with a gradual gradient. At the start of the trail rolling mist draped over the mountain tops. Notable on this walk was a breathtaking view of the narrow Val Gardena. Brilliant green, with clusters of villages on the floor between mountain walls. Along the way we past dairy farms, refugios, and lots of benches to rest and admire the views.

Our third hike, on a trail closer to Latzfons in the Isarco Valley, just beyond Villandro, provided a more remote experience than we'd had in the popular Alpe di Suis. A steep uphill stretch gave us a workout and led us to a point from where we had a panorama of South Tyrol, with the striking Dolomites in the background.

For the second half of our week in the mountains we based ourselves in Brunico, from where we had easy access to the "must do" trails.

At Pordoi Pass

Leaving behind Latzfons, we headed east onto the Great Dolomites Road, famous for its numerous hairpin bends and mountain passes. At Pordoi Pass we were surrounded by the iconic peaks and couldn't resist a hike up a trail into the rugged cliffs. Pristine air, mild temperatures and sublime scenery - ingredients to put anyone in a jolly mood.
We headed north on the tamer SS244, cutting through the Val di Badia. Brunico, though strategically situated to access popular Dolomites trails, didn't have the jaw dropping setting typical of towns in South Tyrol. As a result the town felt local, authentic and Hotel Post in the center was more than sufficiently luxurious.
An extravagant breakfast buffet on our first morning was a wonderful surprise. Especially since we'd been making our own breakfasts until now. And since on our agenda was a full day of hiking we felt free to fill up on eggs, cheeses, pastries, fruit and yogurt.

Lago di Braies

It was an easy 20 minute drive from Brunico to Lago di Braies, the largest and most famous Dolomites lake. We merged with a thick crowd to do the two and a half hour walk tracing the lake's periphery. As soon as I saw the beguiling blend of greens and blues surrounded by grey mountain wall, I understood the hype. The mountain backdrop kept changing on the walk and at one point we escaped the crowded lakeside trail and headed upwards through forest toward the jagged peaks. When we returned to the shore a band of mist descended obscuring the peaks and rendering the lake a deeper tone.

The most popular hike in the Dolomites is the 6 mile trail around Tre Cime, the famous triplet peaks that UNESCO adopted for its icon of this national park. From Brunico it was a 45 minute drive to the trailhead.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

For most of the hike on a gravelly well-defined trail we were worried about getting drenched in a rainstorm. Mist and clouds swirled and spread constantly, though we did have intermittent clear views of the spectacular spires. Looping around Tre Cime we had exposure to every possible angle of this stunning part of the Dolomites. Parts of the trail challenged me a bit. A section of steep climbing got me out of breath. I had to actually take mini rests! Then there was a section of narrow trail cut into a steep cliff with a sheer rocky drop on one side. Scary!!

Tre Cime Trail

But the exhilaration at the end of the hike underscored why these mountains are so special.

Our days in the mountains were followed by evening indulgences back in Brunico. The hotel's jacuzzi and sauna provided excellent therapy for tired muscles. With energy restored, dressed in city clothes, we took in the summer evening vibe of a small Italian town over apérol spritz at one of the many atmospheric bars. Dinner time here was later than in the previous places and by the time we were seated at a restaurant our desires leaned heavily toward carbs. Might as well indulge in wood fired pizza and fresh pasta dishes in their home country we thought! Especially after a day of outdoor physical exertion.

An entire pizza for each of us in Brunico's Old Town

We had one final day of mountain scenery on our drive to Salzburg where we were returning our rental car. We followed the scenic SP44 through the Italian and Austrian Alps.

Lake Obersee

En route we stopped for a hike to a waterfall, then at the Austrian border we munched a picnic sandwich with a gratifying view of a turquoise lake. An image that served as the end punctuation mark to our week in the mountains.

Summer Travels 2019 (Part 1) England

Annual England Visit

(July 27 - Aug 13)

During our roughly two weeks in England, we car tripped from Cambridge to Glossop, up to the Lake District, down to Kenilworth, then to Yatton, and ended in London (via a tow truck!) The trip was characterized by drawn out meals with loved ones, invigorating rambles in bucolic countryside, and rain. Heavy downpours almost daily. Oh, and a temperamental rental car that intermittently lost power at inopportune moments.

Intermittent rain kept us indoors much of the weekend in Cambridge, but over leisurely home cooked meals (Jason's cauliflower cheese, Marie's mushroom tart) we did a whole lot of catching up with Jason, Marie, Luc and Kristal.
On Monday, our third day in Cambridge, we awoke to a cloudless sky. The outdoors dominated the day's agenda so we thanked the weather gods. While Daryl spent the day with Jason in Suffolk, I hooked up with Troy for a long hike. We hadn't seen each other since the Serengeti safari last year so we had much to yak about. We started at Byron's Pool (named after Lord Byron) and followed the trail to the utterly charming old village of Grantchester, returning to Cambridge along the River Cam. In a setting of verdant meadows, birdsong, swan families, punters and willow trees along the riverbank I felt incredibly uplifted. And eager for more nature walks in the next days and weeks.

Daryl and I were on a nature trail in the Pennines the next afternoon. In the morning we had driven up north from Cambridge into the high peaks of Derbyshire. At Langsett Reservoir we stopped for a pub lunch (a pie and pint of bitter). The moors that we could see from the garden table beckoned. We strapped on hiking boots and followed a trail that encircled the reservoir.

Langsett Reservoir Trail

We entered a pine forest where the air was heavily scented and the ground cushioned with mulch. Closer to the water we were on an open field of heather and grasses. Then, as we entered another forested section we heard rumbles of thunder. When lightning streaked across the sky we hightailed it back toward the parking lot. By the time we emerged onto the main road, we felt the first drops of rain. We flew into the car and headed for the Woodhead Pass. Within minutes the storm fully erupted. Bright streaks of lightning, deafening thunder, and the Pennines hidden in mist forced us to wait out the storm at a pullout. Luck was definitely on our side. When Glynis and Mike saw us a short while later in Hadfield their relief was obvious.
Snug and safe at the dinner table, we sipped wine and savored a steamy vegetable casserole. Through the window walls of the conservatory where the dining area is set up we admired their well tended garden full of bright summer blooms. The moors of the high peaks were also in full view from their dining table.

Despite rainy weather in Hadfield our days were dominated by the outdoors. And in the evenings we submitted to being pampered by Glynis and Mike. Hearty home cooked fare, lots of wine, and to end, sweet Greek treats that they'd brought back from a recent trip.

Then there was a notable pub lunch after a morning on the Longdendale trail.

Lunch at the Dog and Partridge Pub

A leek, pea and asparagus risotto with a pint of ale is best enjoyed at a picnic table with expansive views of the moors. Especially after a few hours on a nature trail.
The Longdendale Trail, part of the Trans-Pennine multi day walk, deserves some description.

On the Longdendale Trail

This 10 km mostly level stretch is a section of a former railway line that connected Manchester and Sheffield. We picked up the trail from Hadfield and within minutes we were in a landscape of lush undulating fields, ancient stone walls, the chain of reservoirs providing Manchester's water, overgrown blackberry brambles and even a waterfall. After three hours of immersion in this scenery an ale at a pub's picnic table tasted especially refreshing.

In contrast to the wild moors I had a day of city walking for a change. When I arrived at Manchester's Piccadilly Train Station my goal was to wander around the city, soaking up its summer vibe. I crossed over to the Piccadilly Gardens and for some bizarre reason took a photograph of the Queen Victoria Statue.

Piccadilly Gardens, Manchester

At lunch time Glynis and I noshed on tasty vegan burgers at the plant based restaurant called Vertigo in the striking Royal Exchange building. Alone in the afternoon I wandered past other significant buildings like the Manchester Cathedral, St. Anne's Church and the Art Gallery until the rain came down. I ducked in the Arndale Center where I hoped to find a sun hat for our trip to the Dolomites. Amazingly, despite the many sports shops in the center, and despite it being the peak of summer, a few unappealing baseball hats was all I could find! It was still raining when I headed back to the station. Aha, I thought, in this city there was no need for protection from the sun!

Lake District

Luckily we had a fair amount of dry weather further north. In the humble south Lake District town of Cark (overshadowed by neighboring Cartmel) family members converged for a few days of together time. As this part of England owes its popularity to its way above average natural beauty, daily hikes defined our days.

On our first morning we strolled on the promenade of Grange over Sands. Situated on an estuary, this peaceful coastal stretch, just a couple miles from our vacation rental, gave us a dose of the local geography.

On another day we drove further out, to the town of Seascale on the Irish Sea coast.

Seascale

Here, we walked on the sandy beach and then onto a section of the Cumbrian Coast trail. On this wild, remote stretch we could've walked for hours. Of course it was rain that forced us back to the car.
On our last day in Cark, Clare accompanied Daryl and me on a walk to Cartmel two miles away. A footpath led us through dairy and sheep farms, into a shady forest, and then through rolling green meadows fringed by stone walls.

Scenery on trail connect Cark to Cartmel

We'd already sampled Cartmel's famous sticky toffee pudding and were eager to finally to see this much hyped town. It turned out to be rather charming, with quaint stone buildings, a river flanked by bright gardens, and a lively food scene. We rested our weary legs at a courtyard table munching a sandwich and sampling a craft IPA. Before heading back on the trail we considered a sticky toffee pudding indulgence but opted for a fruit tart smothered in custard.

Cartmel seen from a distant high point on our walk back to Cark

While exercise, fresh air, and nature defined our days in Cark, the evenings were dedicated to family time over drawn out meals lubricated by craft gin cocktails.
The highlight was the Big Family Dinner on our second day when various relatives who weren't staying at the Cark house drove up for a reunion. We were 3 generations gathered together, 19 in total, around the table in the back garden on a glorious sunny day, summer at its best. On the menu was homemade lasagna made by Troy, accompanied by a hefty salad. Gin, bubbly and wine flowed too freely.

Dinner Party, Cark

Dessert had to be Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding. Every variety available and everyone gobbled up as much as their bodies could handle.

Sticky Toffee Pudding anyone?

It was a beautiful day and a satisfying meal. Despite the recently installed occupant at 10 Downing Street we were able to focus on topics that made us laugh and smile. The somberness and anxiety around Boris and Brexit was discernible everywhere in England, but we made a point of remembering what truly mattered. Family, love, good health, and doing whatever you can for others.

When we parted with family Daryl and I drove up to Windemere for two more nights in the Lake District. At Bowness-on-Windemere we hopped on a boat headed for Ambleside. We were on England's largest lake, enjoying the lush meadows and forests hugging the periphery.  

Lake Windemere

At the Ambleside Pier we had a quick lunch - a boring, cheese sandwich - then boarded a boat to Wray Castle. From there we strolled on a 4 mile lakeside trail to Ferry House.

Afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel

There were sporadic bursts of showers, but with our rain repellent outerwear and umbrella we embraced the sweet moist air and soaked up the magnificent scenery for which this area is famous.

A short ferry ride then returned us to Bowness.

Time for afternoon tea at the Belfields Hotel, a majestic building overlooking the lake.
Early Grey tea, finger sandwiches, an assortment of cakes and of course, fresh, warm scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam.

In Windemere we stayed in a cute but tiny garden "hut". Most of our time was taken up by walks - to the towns of Windmere and Bowness, as well as down to the lake along the shore.

Heading south from the Lake District more hearty, drawn out meals and country walks awaited.

Ploughman's Lunch at Hatton Locks Café

We spent a glorious day with David and Rona on the towpath of the Hatton Locks section of the Grand Union Canal. We admired the 21 locks called the "stairway to heaven", picked blackberries, watched narrow canal boats, then sauntered to the café for lunch. Daryl went for the ploughman's lunch, one of the best we'd seen in recent years. Three types of strong cheeses and crusty bread. Yum!

The Epsteins love entertaining. Friends of theirs joined us for a hearty dinner featuring borscht made with homegrown beets. Lucky for us Julia came over from Oxford and we got a chance to catch up with her. Eight of us around the table covered a range of topics. I was pleased to chat with Ian Stewart about his books on math meant for a mainstream readership. I must add that I made the dessert. Summer pudding assembled from homegrown berries and currants, served with rich custard.

Another lingering meal awaited us the next day in Yatton. Saff's elaborate rice salad was the centerpiece of a big dinner gathering. It was so wonderful to see and catch up with Tom, Zoe, Denis, their partners, and Maddy. We'd seen Kathy and her baby earlier.

The walk we did in Yatton was a section of the Strawberry Line. This wide, traffic free path for cyclists and walkers connects several towns in Somerset County. What a fabulous concept! While Daryl and Saff paired up for some good catch up time, Gwen and I shared some quality time too.
Our Yatton visit ended with Sunday lunch in Portishead at The Windmill Inn. With Valerie, Saff and Gwen for company and a pleasing view of Bristol Channel and the Severn Bridge we gobbled up a vegetarian version of traditional (nut roast, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, mushroom gravy).

In London we enjoyed one more dinner gathering at the Self home in Wilsden Green. Gil went all out to prepare a feast, launched by bruschetta topped with roasted bell peppers, and followed by a main course of exquisite nut roast accompanied by a lentil squash casserole. Dom, Randy and Katie chatted about their recent travels. We exchanged Thailand experiences. We laughed about irritations of the expat  in the UK. Gil shared with us her travel wishes. So many years of meeting up with this family in the same dining room. So grateful to continue the tradition.

After two beautiful weeks of visiting family and friends we left England for a holiday in the Italian Dolomites and two Austrian cities. For details stay tuned for Parts 2 and 3.