The Basque Coast (8/ 31 - 9/13 2022)
Eight intense weeks on the Côte d'Azur came to an end. With the Mediterranean Sea in the rear view mirror we headed west. Two relaxing nights at the home of friends in the Luberon, then a night in Carcassonne, followed by the final French destination, Biarritz where we returned our rental car. It was the start of the Basque chapter of our summer travels.
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Biarritz - Rocher de la Vierge
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We were now a group of 5, spending 2 nights on a golf estate in Bidart, a small community bordering Biarritz. From our apartment, it was an easy trek to the beach, especially as the weather was pleasantly cool. On the morning of our only full day in the area we ambled on the soft sand, marveling at the picturesque headlands. On and on we strolled. Peak summer season was over. A tranquil, leisurely atmosphere enveloped us.
The view of the Rocher de la Vierge as we approached Biarritz was breathtaking. At the headland we followed the chain of tourists across the narrow bridge to the tiny island. A Virgin Mary statue perched on the highest point drew our attention briefly. Then we focused our cameras on the sublime views of the Bay of Biscay and shapely coastline.
After hours of fresh air and exercise we had worked up an appetite. From the numerous trendy eating places in the old town, we chose one that featured an international menu. Seated at a table on the terrace facing the pedestrianized lanes of the heart of the old town, we soaked up the vibrancy of this sophisticated city on the Basque Coast. What a pity we'd be leaving the next morning!
But our next destination was San Sebastian, a city that promised a good time for a long list of reasons.
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Panorama of San Sebastian showing beach across the street from our apartment
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San Sebastian is one of those cities that makes a stupendous first impression. Then, it goes on to impress in the days that follow. When I first decided to celebrate my 60th birthday in Europe I wanted a place by a beautiful beach. I wanted to be able to awaken to the sights and sounds of the sea and to be able to easily hop on the beach first thing in the morning. But it also had to be a city with other unique and appealing features so that whoever came out to celebrate with me would be guaranteed a fulfilling time.
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Pintxos in the Old Town on our first night in San Sebastian
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In this city of Michelin starred restaurants and lively pintxo bars (Basque for tapas), much of our entertainment centered around food. On our first evening in town we ambled along the waterfront toward the old town (Parte Vieja).
Before we knew it, we found ourselves on a trail up Monte Urgull. We stopped halfway up to marvel at the panorama of the city bordered by the Bay of Biscay and a beautiful, green mountain range. Then we skipped down to the port and into the old town. It was close to 8:00 PM and the pintxo bars were filling up. Luckily we were able to nab a table at an atmospheric bar with a decent selection of regional pintxos. We were now a group of 8. Pam and Indrasen arrived from Lisbon and Linda from Amsterdam that afternoon. A jug of Sangria and a bottle of Spanish red wine, more alcohol than our group could handle, fueled a mood of celebration.
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View on morning walk to the eastern end of the shore
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Our vacation apartment was located in an upmarket neighborhood called Gros. Each morning before breakfast I started the day with a brisk walk on the coastal promenade. The Zurriola Beach was across the street from our building. It was a small, crescent shaped beach, wide with fine sand, and popular with surfers who were already in the water at sunrise. The temperature early in the day was always divine and heading east I was almost always in shade. At the end of the coastal path I'd gaze at the view. The concert hall, a modern, sleek building stood out. I loved that this architectural gem pointed to a city rich in culture in addition to its natural beauty. My eyes would inevitably stray to conical Monte Urgull at the end of the crescent, bathed in early morning light. The statue of a Catholic icon visible at the top.
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Chefs Pam and Linda at the Gros apartment, San Sebastian
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The apartment in San Sebastian was equipped with a dream kitchen. Eager volunteers in our group efficiently produced tasty creations. Grocery stores, markets and little food stores were within an easy walk from us.
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Creative but simple meals
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Preparing meals together gave us an excuse to get caught up on our lives. It seemed like we were all going through big upheavals and changes. Through cooking, eating and sipping cocktails our English relatives and Australian relatives bonded.
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My siblings, cousin, husband, nephew and in-laws enjoying a meal together at our San Sebastian apartment
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Cooper siblings reading and relaxing over tea at the San Sebastian apartment
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California friends sing Happy birthday outside San Sebastian apartment
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I was touched that friends and family made the effort to fly over to Europe to be with me on my birthday. A total of 15 people came to San Sebastian. Gil from London and Linda from Amsterdam spent 5 days with us but had to leave before my actual birthday. Premi and Sri from Santa Barbara and Rayann and Marlene from Los Angeles found a vacation apartment around the corner from ours. On my birthday morning, on their way to the beach, they sang "Happy birthday" from the street while I looked down from the third floor.
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The females in our group pose for a photo
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The best feature of our apartment was the panoramic sea view from the living room. There were 2 bedrooms with sea views as well. The open plan living area enabled us to comfortably relax and enjoy the views.
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Decorations in the living room and appetizers set out
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We partied on the night before my actual birthday. At 7:00 that evening the hardworking "crew" had prepared the living room and dining room area with party decorations and "pintxos". They went all out to make it a success even though they hit a huge snag that morning. It was a public holiday and all the big grocery stores were closed. They had to hunt all over for little shops that were open. Amazingly, they pulled it off!
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| My grand entry at the start of the party |
I had to borrow clothes from my sister, Pam, for the party. When I had left California back in April in the midst of much chaos I had no time to think about clothes for special occasions. Surely, in the four months away I'd happen upon suitable birthday party attire at one of the many cities on my itinerary? No such luck.
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Everyone in party clothes, sipping drinks and enjoying the view
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I was disappointed that the apartment didn't have a terrace with sea view for dining. Luckily it was so spacious that all 13 of us could easily mill about or sit in clusters on that evening of celebrations.
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One of many birthday party group photos
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Everyone was so elegantly dressed and so full of party energy. I felt really special to be with these caring folks.
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| An international group - California, UK, Australia, Germany |
It was the first time that this group of people were gathered together - in the same country, city, room. We wanted to capture this unusual moment. Someone had the bright idea to use their phone to take a group selfie. And what a result!
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Me sipping a gin and tonic and watching the chefs prepare the main meal
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There was never any question that the quality of the meal was going to be stellar despite the battle to obtain ingredients on a public holiday. These ladies grew up in South Africa and learned the art of flavorful cuisine from their female elders.
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| Daryl and the Ladies |
It was clear that everyone was having a blast at the party. Admittedly, I experienced anxiety in the preceding days. It was important to me that the effort made by everyone was worth it. It felt weird being the center of attention. I didn't like it.
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| Dinner is about to appear |
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We're dancing - or rather making movements that the others find hilarious!
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Dancing was mandatory. Indrasen had worked hard on creating a suitable playlist.
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Rayann knows how to dance and loves it. |
Thank goodness I'm utterly comfortable with these folks and my ineptitude didn't embarrass me!
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Marlene, tall and lithe, is an expert on the dance floor
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Can't deny having skilled dancers at a party definitely provided the right vibe.
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| Premi loves parties, especially when there's music and dancing. |
Music and merriment. I felt very lucky.
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Posing with Julia, Indrasen and Marlene
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Good Spanish wine and gin and tonics made with a special craft gin brought from South Africa added to the mood.
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Desserts - Round 1
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We took a break from dancing to sample exquisite cakes from a local bakery. San Sebastian has an astonishing number of fine bakeries. This is not the town to visit if you're on a diet!
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Slideshow surprise
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Daryl recruited Pam's help and compiled photos of me from childhood to present. He curated them and created a slideshow with Nora Jone's Come Away With Me as the soundtrack. After the energetic dancing everyone was happy for the excuse to sit down and watch the show. Afterwards they took turns to roast me.
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Two birthday cakes - The iconic Basque Cheesecake and a dark chocolate mousse cake
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At midnight we cracked open the champagne as the cakes appeared on the table. It was officially my birthday. Everyone was ready for the local specialty - Basque Cheesecake - after all the dancing that went on earlier.
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Sipping champagne and watching me blow the candle shaped into the number 60
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More dancing followed. Then, around 1:00 AM, the party came to an end.
I slept well, the anxiety leading up to this evening finally behind me. Daryl and I awoke early the next morning and headed out for a walk before coffee.
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Birthday morning hike up to the top of Mont Urgull
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We headed straight for Mont Urgull. We'd been in the city almost a full week and I still hadn't made it all the way to the top. There was never any time.
As we hiked up the slope the sights below us were now familiar. A week of ambling up and down this Basque city's streets and lanes, I felt a deep fondness for the area. The combination of natural beauty, urban sophistication, culture, and gastronomy made San Sebastian the ideal destination for a celebration.
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View from Monte Urgull.
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It was a fantastic start to the day. I spent much of the rest of the day in the apartment catching up with everyone. We decided to cook a big dinner which featured Premi's lamb curry, South African style. I suggested an early dinner in order to have enough daylight time to take the funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo.
This was the mountain at the far side of town. Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo form the ends of a crescent shaped bay. The main beaches, often crowded, lie between them. We reached the funicular too late and didn't get to see the much touted panoramic view from the top. We did catch a glorious sunset though.
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| One last group photo |
It was our last evening together in San Sebastian. The next morning we were all going our separate ways.
I am so aware of how lucky I am for all that I have as I embrace being 60.
