Sydney Diary - October 2019

Spring in the City

The  switch to Daylight Saving Time on the first Saturday of the month marked the start of spring. Mild temperatures, comfortable, though still chilly enough for sweaters lingered until days ago when the thermometer shot up. Now we're in sandals and at night even a light comforter gets kicked off.

Sydney now has that familiarity where it feels like home. And at times I wish it were home. This easy, livable city is clean, safe, orderly, dynamic and relatively crime free. It has an efficient mass transit system. It's cosmopolitan and sophisticated with no shortage of decent entertainment and an exciting multinational gastronomy scene. On top of all that it is blessed with a generous helping of natural beauty due to its harbor setting. We're so lucky to be able to drink in harbor views right from our apartment. Often, in the evening we glimpse a cruise ship drifting out of the harbor.

Sydney at night

While this antipodean city feels so familiar we've barely scratched its surface. I still discover new stores, bakeries, bars, etc. in my neighborhood. And so we're assured of never getting bored or tired during our time here.

Cousins

At various times this month I spent time with relatives I'd known during my South African childhood but rarely saw in adulthood. My cousins Silvie and Ray emigrated with their families to Sydney in the early '90's. Silvie hosted a birthday party for her sister Letchie, who was visiting from South Africa. Daryl and I took a train to the home of Silvie and Dan in Minchinbury, an outer west suburb. We spent a fun, fun evening with three siblings and their families. We danced and sang to music from the '70's. Music we'd grown up with, the lyrics locked in our memories. Bollywood hits featured too.

Photo pose before Letchie blows out candle

That was one delicious birthday cake layered with fresh mango slices, passionfruit pulp and fresh cream.

Nelson Bay

Two weeks later (Oct 21 - 24) I joined my 3 cousins (and their spouses) on a trip to Nelson Bay on the Port Stephens harbor. We stayed in an Airbnb vacation rental - a huge house, fully equipped - in a quiet neighborhood above the town center. The quiet, laid-back town was full of hotels, restaurants, and beach and water activities eagerly awaiting Sydney-siders seeking escape. Everyday I strolled along the paved walking/cycling track - a former bridle way - that hugged the coastline. It was a beautiful walk with views of little bays, bleached, powdery beaches, and eucalyptus woods. Once I saw a flock of black swans which looked stunning against the turquoise water.

Black swans and picturesque beaches in Nelson Bay

Birdlife out here is quite a phenomenon. Sea gulls and pelicans close to the water. And at the vacation rental my sleep broke every morning to bird sounds. Not quite a chorus - more like an orchestra warming up before a symphony performance. When I opened the blinds I'd see a kookaburra on the telephone wire. Colorful lorikeets fluttering on branches of a tree. Crested pigeons perched on a tree. Sulphur crested cockatoos darting into and out of another tree. Mynahs flitting about. And irate magpies shouting at the world.

Evenings with the cousins and their spouses were highly entertaining and relaxing. The guys went out on (unsuccessful) fishing expeditions during the day. When they returned we'd sit around the dining table with drinks and nibbles, and when darkness fell progressed to big dinners. Biryani, pungent vegetable curries and rotis - all prepared in advance in Sydney to free up time on this vacation. Conversations were lively, often pivoting to the past. The colorful days of childhood and youth in South Africa. Apartheid South Africa. We reminisced about our grandparents, laughing uproariously at their quirks. We all shared memories of Wesselsnek, the coal mining village where our grandparents raised our mothers. We sang songs from our childhood, including Tamil songs, the fragments we could dredge up.

We ended our time together with a boat tour to see bottlenose dolphins. It was a blissful two hours of gazing at clear, turquoise water, rich with marine life.

Bottle nose dolphins in Port Stephens

The dolphins put on a magnificent show for us, providing excellent photo opportunities. Beautiful images to bring to an end a memorable mini vacation in Nelson Bay.

Sunday Coastal Walks

Daryl and I continued our Sunday tradition of packing a picnic lunch and hopping on a ferry to a coastal suburb to pick up a walking trail. Our top favorite walk so far was the one we did on the first October Sunday. It almost counted as a bush walk since the trail got us into eucalyptus forests and fern meadows.

Gum tree woods and fern meadows on the hike to Balmoral Beach

He watches us eat our lunch

From Taronga Zoo on the north shore we headed to Athol Bay to begin the 6.5 km hike. The trail followed the coast, providing delightful views across to the Sydney skyline and the Harbor Bridge. Then when we entered the bush, nature sounds and scents drowned out the city. A discordant but uplifting symphony of birdsong interrupted by the familiar "laughter" of kookaburras. It was a three day weekend and a good proportion of the locals were on the trail too. Small, hidden beaches along the walk were a draw judging by how populated they were. At times we were sandwiched between scrawny gum trees and shrubbery adorned with fragrant spring blooms.







The cackling families of kookaburras on gum trees were tricky to photograph. Then, at a beachside park while we munched our sandwiches, a lone kookaburra was perched above us on the telephone wire.

The trail continued to Bradley's head, an interesting spot with military monuments and panoramic views of north and south heads and city skyline.

North Head and South Head of Port Jackson (Sydney Harbor)

Beyond Bradley's head we entered more bush, interrupted by little bays and secluded beaches. Conveniently benches all along the way allowed for rests in scenic spots. The trail ended at bustling Balmoral Beach, a built up area with a wide, paved promenade and a cluster of cafes and shops. Lots of shade on this beach thanks to a row of giant Moreton fig trees, including the biggest one I'd ever seen.

The biggest Moreton Bay Fig tree I've ever seen!

Another satisfying Sunday walk was the 5km Federation Cliff Trail starting at Dover Heights. It was another cloudless spring day when we ferried over to Watsons Bay for this walk. First we followed the South Head loop to Hornby Lighthouse. Directly across from us we took in stunning views of north head. The views of the city skyline and the Bridge were also terrific. No wonder there were so many coach tour groups out there.
The heat was building up as we headed to Gap Park, onto Old South Coast Road and then to a timber walkway above a series of sheer cliffs. Magical. Blue and green hues of the ocean. Frenetic surf lashing sandstone cliff walls. Rock layers depicting thousands of years of geologic history.

Federation Cliff Trail

Leaving behind the tour groups we arrived in Vaucluse, a neighborhood of palatial homes. Now we had to do some steep climbing in unshaded heat. My energy fizzled. Our goal of ending at Bondi Beach felt absurdly ambitious. The pool back home beckoned.

Fish engraving in sandstone from a thousand years ago

When we awoke to mild weather on the Sunday before Halloween we came up with the bold plan of doing the entire Manly Scenic Walk all the way to the spit. But Manly turned out to be summery hot. Though we were constantly immersed in the beautiful scenery for which the walk is famous, the heat diluted our enjoyment. At Dobroyd Head the views were especially thrilling. Now that we had hiked much of the coastal track we understood the area's geography. At Grotto Point we took a look at the Aboriginal rock engravings of fish dating back a thousand years.

Beyond that we detoured through bush to the Grotto Point lighthouse. I was terrified of encountering native fauna on the narrow trail. But the view of an inlet in the harbor was worth it and our avocado sandwiches tasted like gourmet fare. We didn't make it all the way to the spit this time.

The Culinary Scene

This city is paradise for the epicure. At William Blue Dining, a culinary school near our apartment building, we lapped up a delicious 3 course meal.

Spring has sprung, say those veggies! First course at William Blue Dining

Spring veggies with poached egg; risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and parmesan; panna cotta and dark chocolate mousse for dessert. The bottle of Shiraz we selected was light and pleasant and we actually finished the entire bottle. While the chefs appeared ready for the world of discerning diners, our waitress, a brand new student, seemed visibly nervous. She came to take our order before bringing us the menus! This was a training establishment after all!

On a recent Saturday evening the vegan menu of Alibi Restaurant lured us to Woolloomooloo, on the other side of the Royal Botanical Gardens. At 6:00 PM the park was utterly magnificent for a stroll. What an incredible variety of majestic trees! Arriving at the Ovolo Hotel my heart sank when I realized that the restaurant was tucked within a converted shed like structure. No windows looking out to the water surrounding the building. Sure, the décor was elegant, but it felt more suitable for a chilly winter night. We chose the 8 course tasting menu because the Asian thrust made everything sound divine. First came a slice of house made sourdough bread - warm and delicious with an almond coconut cream spread. Then things slid downhill. Earnest attempts at adventurous flavors were evident - the stuffed pillows featured horseradish and miso - but stodgy textures were the issue. A chargrilled broccoli topped with satay sauce for a main course would've appealed more had we not been stuffed when it arrived. The wine pairing disappointed too, but thankfully two inventive desserts redeemed the meal. A vegan banoffee pie and a fruity suspension in a jelly like cube tasted heavenly.

A meal we adored and badly want to repeat was one we had at Malabar South Indian Restaurant in Darlinghurst. It was Diwali and we hoped for a festive atmosphere. But, apart from a separate Diwali Specials menu, there was no other sign of this major Hindu holiday. When we tasted the samosa starter, a baked filo triangle stuffed with greens, it was clear that a talented chef was in charge. Vegan butter chicken along with baby okra displayed big flavors and pleasant textures. Judging from the packed, atmospheric interior, this restaurant had earned quite a reputation. A 30 minute walk back home was just what we needed after stuffing our bellies. As we cut through Hyde Park we came upon many costumed people in party mood. Both Halloween and Oktoberfest were observed in a big way.

Happy hour is a biggie in Sydney. $5 wine and beer offered everywhere. The Munich bar at the bottom of our street has excellent beer which we enjoyed a few times in an Oktoberfest atmosphere. Friday evenings at Barangaroo are great for party atmosphere and views. And opposite our building the Italian restaurant Rosetta serves delicious woodfired pizzas and decent beer and wine at half price on their terrace. We met up there with our Santa Barbara friends, Ken and Janis, who were in town in early October. However, the music they played to usher in a 3 day weekend made conversation impossible. We got together with Ken and Janis again at an Indonesian restaurant, Salt and Palm, on Glebe Point Road right next to their Airbnb. Here, we sampled traditional rice platters with accompaniments of peanuts, tempeh, and chillies washed down with orange gin and tonic. Ken and Janis were flying the next morning to Cairns for adventures in the Daintree Forest and the Great Barrier Reef.

The best meal of the month would have to be the one we had with Stephan and Brangwyn at their home in Randwick, near Coogee Beach. A beet dip with pita wafers to start. And for mains, stuffed zucchini and savory rice topped with pomegranate seeds straight out of an Ottolenghi cookbook. Dessert was strawberry crumble. Stephan and Brangwyn have a passion for gourmet cooking. But it wasn't just the food that made the evening special. We love this family. Their sons Jasper and Fabian provided pre-dinner entertainment. Fabian got out his magic set and performed some tricks. Jasper showed off his math knowledge, especially his special interest in Pi. After they turned in, our adult conversation hit a variety of interesting topics.

Entertainment

We are definitely taking advantage of the city's many entertainment options, especially because the venues are an easy walk from us. We saw the movie 'The Eulogy' a fascinating documentary about Geoffrey Tozer, an Australian pianist. It examined why the Sydney and Melbourne Symphony Orchestras shunned him. Internal politics? A tormented soul, pampered and idolized by his mother, a music teacher. A prior Australian prime minister, Paul Keating, in a eulogy lamented Tozer's unrecognized talent, and this was the impetus for the documentary.

We saw a hilarious live theatre production called The Wharf Revue at Roslyn Packer Theatre near Walsh Bay. This musical political satire was similar to the Capital Steps in the US. Major political events and figures were skewered in witty sketches. The digs at local politics were lost on us, but we learned more about Scott Morrison (ScoMo) and his conservative views. He ran on an anti immigration platform feeding into the current racist climate. He also believes that "god" has chosen him for the job. The Hamilton songs ridiculing Boris and Trump had us in stitches. There was a touching tribute to Bob Hawke, a respected Labor Party prime minister who died this year.
Aung San Suu Kyi appeared, defending her policies, as her humanitarian quotes  from her jail time flashed on the screen. Then to the tune of Don't Cry for me Argentina she justified the persecution of the Rohingya people. This part was a bit unsettling. All in all, a fantastic night of entertainment!

At the Sydney Opera House we enjoyed an evening of Bruckner's Symphony 7 conducted by Donald Runnicles. Seated just a few rows from the stage we were able to fully appreciate this expansive piece (similar to a Mahler symphony).

Sydney Symphony taking curtain bows after Bruckner Symphony No 7

We returned to Sydney's iconic monument for the opera "Il Viaggio A Reims". We'd never heard of this Rossini work before, then we found out that it is rarely performed. In fact it had been composed in the mid 19th century for the coronation of a king and then disappeared, until the 1980's when it was reconstructed. The music was wonderful. The production creative. Farcical themes open up wide possibilities. The director set most of the opera in an art gallery. Characters from famous artwork come alive and walk across the stage. Lots of laughs and silliness. No plot to speak of.

Curtain bows for Il Viaggio A Reims

Appropriately, on this Halloween holiday, the actors were costumed! Not an opera I'll return to, but glad for the experience in the Joan Sutherland Theatre.

The end of October marked the halfway point of our time in Sydney.

Sydney Diary September 2019

Tail end of Winter

It's been a month since that 14 hour flight out of LA on the Dreamliner, an extraordinary feat of engineering. When that giant chunk of metal taxied then gracefully glided up into the air over the Pacific Ocean I couldn't help marveling at the accomplishments of my species. Of course I was flying economy but I felt privileged. My brain doesn't come anyway near those humans endowed with the intelligence that advances our civilization. At the same time it is equally astonishing that our species is responsible for the leadership mess in the US and the UK, not to mention Australia!

Sydney is our home this autumn. Spring, to be accurate. Daryl has taken up duties as a visiting professor at the Maths Institute attached to the University of Sydney. I'm working on a book (just so I can sound pretentious!).

September in Sydney was similar to March in Santa Barbara. Chilly days and summery days interspersed among mostly mild days. Some blustery days in the first half of the month and a couple of rainy days. Each day the sun rises a little earlier and sets a little later. The avenue of plane trees lining the road below our apartment were bare when we arrived, and are now clad in bright green foliage. Around the city most of the trees (many graceful mature ficus varieties) are evergreen and provide no hints of the season.

Our apartment building - The Cove

We had a bit of a rocky start on our arrival. The Glebe apartment we'd booked many months ago turned out to be unsuitable for many reasons. Below street level, it had a chilly, gloomy interior. But it was the presence of mold around the doors and windows that made it intolerable.

Ten anxiety filled days after our arrival we packed our things and moved into a high rise called The Cove, designed by a famous local architect. Our suburb is The Rocks, and the Opera House is a quick walk from us. Through the floor to ceiling living room window we have views of the Harbor Bridge and Circular Quay. We have access to a rooftop terrace, a gym, pool, sauna and steam-room. Safe to imagine our days here border on luxurious.

On Day 1 we walked along the waterfront for a quick look at Sydney's sights. This is a side view of the Opera House from across the Museum of Contemporary Art

What have we been up to in our free time?

On the cultural front we attended two events at the Sydney Opera House. Before the start of every performance, respects are paid to the First Nations. The Gadigal clan, who originally lived on the land occupied by the Opera House, is honored.
We enjoyed a gripping performance of Holst's "The Planets" by the Sydney Symphony Orchestra under the baton of Vladimir Ashkenazy (now in his early 80's). This was preceded by a heartwarming piano concerto by a Russian composer we hadn't heard of before. Probably because Nikolai Medtner was Rachmaninoff's contemporary. Alexei Volodin, a Russian pianist, did a phenomenal job of making the piece accessible!

Our second Opera House event was a finely tuned performance of Tom Stoppard's 1982 play "The Real Thing" at the more intimate Drama Theatre.

Cast of The Real Thing taking their final bows

In the hands of an outstanding cast, the play's probing questions on love and writing kept us stimulated and captivated. Not to mention laughing hard at the many witty lines. So glad we got to see this and even better, I managed to get a discount coupon from the Welcome committee and saved $60 on 2 tickets!
I must add that the walk back from the Opera House to our apartment is always entertaining. The outdoor bars buzz with folks lingering over drinks. All along the quays you see clusters of the city's cosmopolitan residents and visitors, basking in the lit up skyscrapers and the Harbor Bridge, outlined in bright colors these past evenings.

Sydney Harbor Bridge at night

A city that feels so alive energizes me.

Sydney's culinary scene is excitingly diverse. A week after our arrival in Sydney it was my birthday. For dinner Max, Daryl and I celebrated at Manjits, which promised fine Indian cuisine with a Darling Harbor view. It delivered on both fronts. A robustly spiced roasted eggplant dish and a rich kofta dish were divine. Max gave his grilled fish dish a definite nod of approval. The last time he and I were together on my birthday was way back during our student days in Durban. He took charge of the wine, choosing a crisp Chardonnay (currently trendy varietal in Australia) which worked pretty well with our meal.

A couple weeks later, at Mercado, one of a collection of upmarket Angel Place restaurants, we indulged in superb Mediterranean fare. Starter share plates of creamy hummus with housemade pita bread (resembling thick roti) and a polenta flavored with parmesan were faultless. As were the delicate pumpkin ravioli and smoky wood-fired broccoli. The wine list had looked intimidating with its mainly highly priced European selections. As a rule we go for local so we chose a Hunter Valley Shiraz which at A$52 was one of the cheaper options. It turned out to be an excellent choice, lots of structure with a great balance of dryness and fruitiness.

Jounieh, at the Harbor Bridge end of the newly developed waterfront precinct called Barangaroo, was another Mediterranean restaurant we tried and loved for its polished creativity. Their homemade flatbread came piping hot and was instantly addictive. We used it to scoop up three yummy dips - a smoky babaganoush, good hummus and labneh. The other starter dish we shared, called kabees, consisted of marinated olives and pickled turnips and chillies. For mains we had an usual green falafel accompanied by chargrilled eggplant. The terrace with pleasant water views was a delightful setting, tempting us to prolong the meal with dessert. We ordered baklava, prepared to be underwhelmed. To our surprise the larger than expected block consisted of delicate layers of rectangles separated by something creamier and less sweet than honey. It more closely resembled a high quality mille feuille.

At Indu, another high end restaurant at Angel Place, the idea of modern Sri Lankan village food so intrigued us we decided to go for the multi course vegetarian feast set menu.  Course after delicious course arrived - slices of warm cumin bread with a creamy spread; a roasted eggplant and bell pepper mini-casserole, spelt dosa stuffed with curried potatoes and crispy kale; pumpkin curry, dhal, rice, paratha, beetroot raita, grilled brussels sprouts. An impossible amount of food. All of it meeting the high expectations of food snobs. The desserts borrowed heavily from the west - a cube of carrot cake and dark chocolate mousse with orange sorbet. Thankfully we were allowed to bring back leftovers in a to go box.

Just to be clear, we eat home cooked meals at least 5 nights a week. Produce from Paddy's market and from weekend farmer's markets provide the inspiration. As spring approaches produce shopping is increasingly pleasurable. Asparagus is in season now. Isn't that cool?

To balance our restaurant indulgences we spent hours on walking trails every weekend. Coastal tracks abound along Sydney's curvaceous harbor and coastline. During our first week in the city, when the air still held a winter chill, the Glebe Foreshore track provided an easy escape from our gloomy apartment. Within two minutes of shutting the door I found myself on a paved path which followed the Wattle Bay shoreline, under the Anzac Bridge, past several parks bordered by graceful, mature trees. City skyline views across the bay were splendid.

Anzac Bridge from Glebe Foreshore

Further along, the high rises disappeared and the horizon at sunset was delightful. I loved the neighborhood atmosphere on this walk late in the day when I merged with joggers, residents walking their dogs, cyclists, fitness buddies, and others. On the Sunday before leaving Glebe for our new digs Daryl and I walked all the way to the end of the track and arrived at the Tramsheds. A collection of restaurants and gourmet food stores occupy this converted tram depot. In the central court a food market with several stalls of produce and artisanal foods conferred wonderful atmosphere. We felt excited, anticipating more Sydney discoveries in the months ahead.

We knew we had to do the Bondi to Coogee trail while the weather was still cool. Arriving by bus at Sydney's most famous surf beach on a calm Saturday afternoon we were surprised at the tame surf.

View of Bondi from the Bondi to Coogee Track

The sandy beach and sapphire ocean were as dazzling as they appear in movies. Even though we'd done this walk multiple times in past visits, we still gasped in awe at the sheer limestone cliffs, city views and little beaches along the path to Coogee.

The next day we boarded a ferry for Manly, the other popular beach area. Harbor, bridge and Opera House views from the water never get stale. With so many options to choose from in Manly we went in the opposite direction to the crowd. Unlike the previous day's hike which was entirely in an urban setting, this walk had more variety.

Cliff on Manly walk 

A water dragon in Manly

We quickly found ourselves in the bush, then in a posh neighborhood, then a secluded beach hidden in vegetation. We followed the trail upwards, greeted periodically by giant lizards (water dragons?) and arrived at the top of a steep cliff.

In various places signs were displayed, urging you to call this number before considering stepping off the cliff. The walk led downwards to the popular Shelly Beach before looping across the Corso back to the harbor.

On a different weekend we walked 8 km from Rose Bay to Watson's Bay and saw new parts of Sydney. The ferry ride to Rose Bay provided a different angle from which to view the city skyline and Harbor Bridge. The start of the walk took us to a built up neighborhood of gorgeous mansions before returning us to the coast where we entered the Hermitage Foreshore Walk.

City Skyline from Hermitage Foreshore Walk

Much of it was on timber boardwalk through the bush with views of small beaches and bays. We saw and heard lots of birds, including a family of kookaburras.

Crested pigeon? On Hermitage Foreshore Walk

At times we caught glimpses of the city skyline across the bay. The walk continued through parks and neighborhood before we reached the ferry dock at Watson's Bay three hours later.

Could a Sunday get any better? Guess what! Back at Circular Quay we boarded a ferry to Pyrmont Bay to check out the wine festival in Pirrama Park. Wineries from Orange, a region 200 miles inland, beyond the Blue Mountains, were showing off their cool climate 2018 wines. On this sunny day, sitting on the grass in front of a live band, the bay in the background, any wine would have tasted fine. But the pinot noir I tried was impressive. When Max joined us - his apartment was a five minute walk away - we tried a couple of Chardonnays. Unexciting. I tried a red blend from a vegan, organic vendor. I liked it. It tasted young, but held great promise at maturity.

Wine Festival, Pirrama Park

The wine scene in Australia is dynamic and full of pleasant surprises. At the moment we're exploring wines from New South Wales but in a non methodical manner. Don't ask us for advice!

September has been a busy month. And now we're looking at our already crowded October calendar!