Pacific Northwest Road Trip August 2021

When Daryl and I planned a one month road trip - our first vacation since March 2020 - all signs pointed to a summer of freedom and joy. But two weeks before our departure the Delta variant went on a rampage, yanking us out of our post-pandemic complacency. Luckily, our vacation was centered around the outdoors and we were able to accomplish much of what we set out to do.

From our Goleta, California home we headed north, hugging the coast as much as possible up to the Olympic Peninsula in the state of Washington. From there we turned southward, heading inland, first to Mount Rainier National Park, then to the Columbia River Gorge, Mount Hood, the Central Cascades of Oregon, west to Eugene, south past Mt. Shasta and ended in Berkeley, California.

Driving up Highway 1 on a cloudless summer day, our spirits soared. It was a Sunday and everywhere we stopped - Shell Beach for a picnic lunch, Morro Bay's waterfront to smile at otters, the San Simeon pier for a stroll - vivacious families were out and about. Pandemic? What pandemic? On our first night we decamped at the official start of the Big Sur Coast, a headland occupied by the overpriced Ragged Point Inn. From a strategically situated bench on their landscaped grounds we gawked at rugged cliffs and churning ocean over a picnic dinner which included a delicate artichoke tart (also overpriced) from the onsite restaurant. 

The next morning we negotiated steep curves on an improbable highway carved into California's Coastal Range. Thankfully, the large number of pull-outs enabled full enjoyment of the jaw dropping views from dizzying heights. Big Sur was sizzling in summer heat when we made our first stop at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. California Condors circled overhead, offering a ceremonial welcome. 

Waterfall at Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur

The trail was only partially open due to recent fire destruction, but we managed to get to a viewpoint from where we could see the highlight - a waterfall, barely visible and overshadowed by the shapely cliffs and water hues. On a previous visit years ago the waterfall was a mesmerizing spectacle as it spewed out a great volume of crystal clear water. The effects of years of drought were hard to ignore right from the start of our trip.

Two Big Sur favorites had to be sacrificed. Nepenthe - due to an endless line of cars at the entrance - and the Big Sur Bakery - closed on a Monday. But a picnic lunch (burritos) followed by a leisurely stroll on Pfeiffer Beach under a cloudless sky amply compensated for that. Quite a lot of people were enjoying this picturesque beach, which felt a bit strange. A scene from normal times. Covid numbers were on the rise. Was it just a tease before everyone retreated again?

Estuary near Point Reyes

We had a full morning to appreciate Marin County's beguiling coast when, at sunrise on a Tuesday morning we drove in dense fog to beat the traffic across the Golden Gate Bridge. We'd spent the night in Half Moon Bay, where we had dined at an excellent Indian restaurant after a vigorous beach walk. Bridge and city skyline views were well hidden as we wound up the coastal mountain on the north side of the bridge and descended down to Stinson Beach. What a delightful place with its posh cafes and stores bordering an inviting park! We couldn't have asked for a better breakfast stop to enjoy our first cafe croissant and coffee of our vacation. 

Later in the morning when we stopped at Point Reyes for lunch supplies we were fully reminded of the pandemic. Starting that morning masks were again mandated to enter all public indoor spaces in 5 Bay area counties. This was California's most vaccinated county, populated by a largely upper middle class progressive demographic. No wonder it was so easy to find rustic bread, local cheeses and lush salad produce for a picnic lunch!

Humboldt State Park

It's shameful that it's taken us this long to visit the famous redwood forests in Humboldt County and north toward the state border. There was never any doubt that we'd love the experience. That was why we decided to go for full immersion and camp in the forest for three nights. Before arriving at our first campground I was apprehensive about evening weather. We'd just spent a couple days with friends near Mendocino where a persistent chill had numbed my toes and fingertips the whole time. Would the temperature and fog be worse further north? Not at all. We were blessed with bright sunshine, warm days, warm evenings everyday. Days on trails that wove around ancient giants followed by evenings around the campfire felt cleansing, therapeutic, restorative. The drive up the Avenue of Giants through Humboldt State Park - a narrow stretch flanked by towering beauties - was an experience that will stay with me forever. 

To get to Del Norte State Park from Humboldt, Daryl chose the more adventurous route via Mattole Road. We stopped a few times along the first third of what was more a lane than a road to hike through groves of ancient, majestic redwoods. About a third of the way along the road the forest receded. The surface, now unpaved, became increasingly rougher. I held my breath as we climbed up a windy bit, anxious about the miles ahead. How much worse was it going to get? What a joyful moment when we finally saw the ocean and merged with Highway 101!

Smith River at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

Warm, sunny weather in the northernmost part of coastal California surprised me. Thankfully, the forest shade ensured perfect hiking conditions. On our last day in the redwoods as we dodged hikers on a popular trail we unexpectedly emerged onto an open area with full sun exposure. A serenely gorgeous river - the Smith River - came into view and a lot of foot traffic headed toward a gravelly bank. Daryl was not going to pass up the opportunity to cool off in that clear water. Quite the symbolic way to bid adieu to this unique bit of our planet.

Oregon

Winchester Bay, Oregon Coast

A saunter on the untamed beaches of the Pacific Northwest guarantees a dopamine spike. Forest clad mountains meet sandy beaches. Driftwood piles mimic elaborate works of sculpture. Rocky beaches at low tide expose a great variety of sea creatures. Crossing into Oregon the visual splendor is magnified. Craggy headlands. River mouths. Lush forests. And picnic areas and trails to admire the scenery are plentiful, accessible and free. So much more egalitarian than California where you have to pay a $10 fee to enter beaches which form part of the state park system. In southern Oregon we climbed up dunes on wide sandy beaches, then meandered over toward the river bank via a forest. The coast road was busy, many camper vans and RV's, and the entire stretch was pretty built up with a chain of towns - each uniquely cute - merging into each other all the way up to the Columbia River mouth.

Oregon beach close to Washington border

Closer to Washington the beaches were rockier. On a deserted beach near Seaside, Oregon we were astounded by the sea creatures on a creviced rock. We desperately needed a mood boost because we had just spent a disappointing night at an overpriced awful motel in Garibaldi, a modest fishing village north of Tillamook. Our timing was perfect. The tide was out and there was so much to see. The many bright red starfish stole the show and filled us with joy.

Bridge at Astoria

Before leaving Oregon we pulled into a viewpoint to admire the stunning bridge at the mouth of the Columbia River. Astoria, on the river bank, looked attractive, and we were tempted to explore lunch options there, but Covid numbers in the state were shooting up. We drove on, across that impressive bridge, and a short while later arrived at a picnic area with water views. A peaceful, safe place to enjoy a lunch of bread, cheese, salad and fruit.

Washington

Sunset from Ocean Crest Resort, Moclips, WA

Ocean Crest Resort at Moclips is not one of those pretentious five star places, but our two nights here felt indulgent and luxurious. Perched up on a vertiginous cliff overlooking the Pacific, this was a place to engage full vacation mode. The pool, jacuzzi, sauna, massage rooms and exercise rooms were inside a giant wooden structure which oozed Scandinavian charm. We could easily have spent our entire two days in the pool and sauna. But the beach below the resort, reached by descending a wooden staircase, was so irresistible. And it went on for miles in each direction. All around the hotel grounds there were seating areas to enjoy sublime sea views, which climaxed at sunset. This far north the spectacle occurred close to 9:00 PM in early August.

 For evening meals we drove to the planned upmarket community of Seabrook, two miles south of Ocean Crest Resort. Over an unforgettable wood-fired pizza on one evening and an exquisite Mexican meal the next, the town's character revealed itself. I was reminded of a typical European small town in summer with vibrant cafes and locals hanging out in public spaces. Seabrook was a 21st century version of such a place. No doubt a wealthy, urban set lived in the stately two storeyed homes that fringed the downtown core.

Lake Quinault

A week in the Olympic National Park was next on our itinerary. Research, which included advice from friends, helped us create a sensible plan that ensured sufficient time for the main attractions. It was a short drive from Moclips to Lake Quinault, a serene lake framed by forested hills. We captured this photo from the lawn of the historic Lake Quinault Lodge. In the temperate rainforest nearby we followed a one mile loop which served as a primer to the park's old growth firs, cedars and hemlocks. Ferns, mosses and a gurgling creek enhanced an already enjoyable walk. 

The Pacific Northwest was gripped by a heat dome on that day- the second one this summer. As a result, the day's highlight, the Hoh Rainforest, was far from a typical experience.

Hoh River and the Hoh Rainforest

It was impossible to imagine the usual chill and dampness of the area as we endured tropical temperatures and humidity. Moss-covered tree trunks and vivid ferns seemed unreal. The trails were crowded, something we anticipated with dread when we had to wait a whole hour in bumper to bumper traffic at the entrance to this section of the park. The trail along the Hoh River goes on for miles and miles, providing ample opportunity to be wowed by Sitka Spruce, Douglas Fir, Red Cedar and Western Hemlock. But by late afternoon heat exhaustion hit and our day in paradise had to end. 

Intense heat lingered for days. Fortuitously, the beaches west of Forks - our base for the western part of the park- were on the schedule.

Rialto Beach near Forks, WA

Second Beach at La Push, accessed via a trail through rainforest, reminded me of the beaches in Thailand. Tall rock stacks, like the karsts of South East Asia, jut out of the water close to shore. Emerald forests come right down to a wide, sandy beach. But it was Rialto Beach that stole my heart. Here, the rock stacks reminded me of mythical characters. Walking on the rocky beach felt like a foot massage. I picked up smooth, polished rocks, admired their colors and shapes and hated having to toss them back.

Sol Duc Waterfalls

Between the unremarkable, logging town of Forks and our next base, Port Angeles, lies the seductive Sol Duc Valley. Here, we started the day at the sumptuous hot springs resort. Is there anything more pleasurable than soaking in heavenly pools fed by natural mineral springs in a blissful setting of cliff walls and forests? 

When our hour was up (Covid limitations) and we switched from swimsuits to hiking clothes it took some effort to summon the energy for a hike. Luckily the ascent was gentle and the reward - a trio of thundering waterfalls - most satisfying.

Crescent Lake

By the time we arrived at Crescent Lake - after the hotsprings, waterfalls hike, and picnic lunch which included big slices of Marionberry pie - we were ready for a siesta. We set up our outdoor folding chairs in the shade near the shore and read and napped through the afternoon.

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

Port Angeles, a short drive from Lake Crescent, is sandwiched between the San Juan Strait and a jaw-dropping mountain range. Despite its picturesque location we found the town center surprisingly dull, except for the part near the ferry terminal where a cluster of hip restaurants provided lively atmosphere. Even the paved promenade along the waterfront was ghostly. 

As a base to the mountains of the Olympic National Park, Port Angeles was perfect. The Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center was just a short drive out of town. Surely the most spectacular setting of any visitor center? It was the view of Mount Olympus, the highest peak, that drew gasps from everyone around us. At the same time, when I turned my gaze to the patches of snow capping the ridge my heart sank at the stark reminder of climate change. A decade ago, even in midsummer, Hurricane Ridge would've been significantly whiter. 

The steep, mostly paved trail that wound up to a summit was full of foot traffic. With travel options so limited, the national parks drew droves of domestic visitors this summer. Somewhere along the trail my phone beeped with a message welcoming me to Canada! Indeed, when we reached the top we could see Vancouver Island in the distance. The view of Port Angeles was breathtaking, but it was the saw-toothed mountain ridge, sharply clear, that commanded my gaze for a good long while. When we returned to the visitor's center I was eager for more. We checked out the shorter trails that went up in different directions and the views were equally arresting. On the drive back to town in the middle of the afternoon I was amazed to see thick clouds racing across the valley and I realized how lucky we had been. 

At dinner time we were ready for a high carb feast. Barhop Brewing near the ferry terminal provided a satisfying trifecta of flavorful IPA, "artisan" pizza and lively atmosphere on a terrace with a waterfront view.

After an unforgettable week at the Olympic National Park we headed further north to Puget Sound.  

Cornish Pasties, Port Townsend, WA

During our 2 full days in atmospheric Port Townsend we entertained thoughts of retiring here. Who could blame us? Its geography (on a sound) plus its attractive colonial style architecture bestow an immediate "wow" factor. We stayed at The Water Street Hotel which is in a historic building, placing us in the heart of the action. After breakfast each morning we strolled past the harbor, hopped down to the beach - the tide was low each time - and sauntered toward the Point Wilson Lighthouse. Blue sky, the hum of locals and visitors engaged in beach and park activities, sea birds circling and swooping, the wet sand soft and nurturing. We were infatuated. 

 The variety of upmarket restaurants strengthened our impressions. Where else in America can you find "made from scratch" vegetarian Cornish pasties stuffed with vindaloo curry? Small parks with picnic tables all over town ensured blissful settings at meal times. (Due to growing Covid numbers we opted for take-out over dining at restaurants.) 

On the day we were leaving town we popped into the food co-op for meal supplies. Three nights in a cabin with a kitchen at Mount Rainier's southern entrance awaited. We were excited about home prepared meals for the first time in weeks. And when we found a heartening variety of high quality seasonal produce as well as an incredibly well-stocked deli at the co-op our affection for Port Townsend deepened. We left town wondering whether we'd return as new residents or never see it again.

We headed south. The start of our journey back to California. We crossed attractive bridges into and out of Bainbridge Island as we made our way west to the range of mountains called the Cascades.

Mount Rainier

Drizzle and cloud cover on our two days at Mount Rainier National Park did not deprive us of exhilarating hikes. On our first full day at the park, since the mountain we were here to see was well hidden in dense cloud, we settled for a forest hike that involved a long, steady climb on a trail cushioned by mulch. At the viewpoint from where Mount Rainier would be visible on a clear day, we munched a sandwich and stared into the mist. The temperature for me was ideal for hiking. In the afternoon, still full of steam, we hopped onto an easy stretch of the mostly strenuous Wonderland Trail. This 93 mile long trail encircles the mountain, and we were on a level bit near Cougar Rock Campground alongside a gushing river churning white water.

 

On our second day at the park we hiked the super popular Skyline Loop Trail from Paradise Valley for the best chance to see the king of the Cascades. The weather looked promising with less cloud cover than the previous day. An early arrival granted us a prime parking spot in a lot that was rapidly filling up with Seattle day-trippers on this August Sunday. We started our ascent on a quiet stretch through meadows brightened by wild flowers and reached Myrtle Falls. We paused here for a few minutes to absorb the beauty of the waterfall, then continued on the ascent, still puzzled at how few people we encountered. The final bit required some rock scrambling (to my dismay), but once at the summit I was dumbstruck. A shimmering white mound towered above me. I gazed at the glacier clad contours, transfixed. This moment, I knew, would be the climax of the month long road trip.When I finally became aware of the world again I was amazed to see that we were far from alone. How did all these people get there? Turned out we were doing the loop in the opposite direction. Had we done it the traditional way, the climb would have been considerably steeper - up endless steps - but Mt. Rainier would've been in our view much of the time (depending on cloud cover). Doing it in reverse made the downhill section absurdly easy, but we encountered hordes of visitors. On the drive out of the park we wondered if Seattle's proximity to this park placed it above Port Townsend as a retirement home. 

Columbia River Gorge

The route we selected for the drive south from Mt Rainier was supposed to provide close up views of Mt St. Helens and Mt Adams. But the weather that Monday morning did not co-operate. We drove in cloud, drizzle and mist, a guarantee of poor visibility much of the time. To make matters worse, as we approached a pass the paved road ended and we entered a rough, bumpy stretch. How did this happen? We'd done our research and the road had looked smooth and paved on Google maps the night before! Immense relief washed over us when the road widened into a normal two lane highway again near the Columbia River!

This mighty river originates in the Canadian Rockies and on its journey to the Pacific Ocean is fed by numerous rivers. At the point where we crossed into Oregon, the Columbia River cut through a gorge in the Cascades. We intended to camp in this geologically intriguing region, but changed our plans when we saw the charmless campground at Viento State Park near busy Highway 84. We opted for a room at a pleasant motel in lively Hood River, a town which occupies arguably the best location in Oregon. 

Multnomah Falls - one of the tallest in the nation

Undoubtedly, the highlight of the Columbia River Gorge is the tall, multi-tiered Multnomah Falls. When we'd arrived at the entrance, via the historic byway, we were told we needed a ticket that had to be purchased in advance online. Due to Covid this was a way to limit numbers. After fiddling around with the online procedure on our phones without success, we were eventually let in and immediately stepped onto the steep trail to the top of the falls. Invigorating and rewarding, we relished every moment.

 

Back on the byway, an engineering marvel along a cliff wall, we made stops at the other waterfalls in the area. Each endowed with its own charm and compelled hikes to viewpoints. Past the waterfalls the road arcs and ascends up to Crown Point. From this spot we gazed at the bird's eye view of vertical cliff walls and wide, wide river visible for many miles. A heart stopping panorama that can only be fully appreciated in real life.

Mount Hood from Mirror Lake

Before leaving Hood River on a cloudless Tuesday morning we caught a great view of Mount Adams from the motel parking lot, and in the cute downtown, we acquired delicious bagels from a bustling bakery. These unexpected parting gifts left quite an impression. The town of Hood River sure had a lot going for it. Minutes after heading south on scenic Highway 35,  Mount Hood came into full view. A symmetric partially snowcapped dome proudly displayed above an agricultural plain. We drove through farmland, stopped at one of the many farm stands, bought a huge bag of freshly harvested pears (which didn't make it to California due to border regulations), and continued onward to a trailhead for our first hike of the day.

Though not as ostentatious as Mt. Rainier, Mount Hood is more accessible, with numerous hiking trails at its base. My favorite was the trail to and around Mirror Lake for its ideal combination of forest, gentle ascent, scenery and views. A night at Cooper Spur Lodge provided luxury, which included an evening hot tub soak under the stars. On a future visit we may spend a night at the Timberline Lodge for even more luxury in a historic wooden building right up the mountain. The Pacific Crest Trail goes past this lodge and we hiked a small part of it just so we could brag about it. 

Heading south to the central Cascades we encountered smoke from wildfires for the first time on this trip. The mountain peaks we hoped to have views of during the drive were completely invisible. East of the Cascades we entered high desert landscape. Now we were immersed in browns and tans, descending and ascending steep canyons until we arrived at a heavily irrigated agricultural plain. 

We stayed at an Airbnb just outside the town of Sisters, Oregon. Though the fires were a fair distance from us the sky was hazy and poor air quality lingered for two days. Luckily on our last full day in the area we woke up to a bright blue sky. We finally could see the iconic Three Sisters, a trio of volcanic cones, from our window. From the road near our Airbnb we could see Three Fingered Jack, Black Butte and Mount Washington. 

The highlight for us in the Sisters area was a hike around Suttle Lake, a clear blue lake that arose from glacial run-off. The combination of sun, perfect air temperature, pine scents and natural beauty gave us a high, and craving more, we extended our walk through a wooded trail along a creek. 

Suttle Lake, Sisters, OR

Blu Pool on the Tamolich Trail in the Central Cascades

From Sisters we drove east to Eugene over a pass to the western side of the Cascades. Between the two cities we stopped for one last big wilderness hike. On the Tamolich Trail we arrived at a truly arresting sight, a pool the color of sapphire. It was still early on a Sunday morning. In a few hours this spot would be crowded. Continuing beyond Blu Pool, we hiked beside the McKenzie River, into a delightful forest infused with earthy scents. The trail was mostly level and pretty quiet. Our road trip was coming to an end. Next on the itinerary was a city stint.

It isn't Nature!

Our LA friends welcomed us to their new home in Eugene in style. During our short stay with them they showed us their favorite walks and yet another city began to seduce us. At the end of each day, over Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and a variety of blue cheeses we chatted, laughed, complained, grouched, smiled. The past 18 months had been tough in a number of ways. But the worst was over and we had plenty to smile about.

 

Delta, South Africa's Horrors, and other Disasters

July 11, 2021

High summer in California. Hot days due to a high pressure ridge in our region. In parched California fires are already ravaging forests. And Covid is becoming a problem in our state again. When I read that LA county has had over a 1000 new cases in the past 3 days my heart sank. There are too many unvaccinated people out there and this does not bode well for the weeks ahead. Ouch!

Sydney, Australia reported 70 new positive cases today. South Africa's lockdown has been extended - obviously - their numbers are climbing. In the UK, new daily cases now just over 30,000.

Hogging headlines around the globe today is the Euro 2020 Soccer finals. In a tight match between Italy and England, Italy squeezed out a win in penalties. Gloom fell over the UK, which hosted the game, while Rome partied.

July 12

Biggest news on this Monday is the distressing situation in South Africa. Former "corrupt to the core" president Jacob Zuma was arrested for contempt of court when he refused to appear on a corruption charge. This sparked an eruption of violent protests in Zulu strongholds - KwaZulu-Natal and Gauteng. It boggles the mind that such a pathetic specimen could have such a passionately loyal following. Ah yes, the comparisons to Trump are unavoidable. Freight trucks on the main freeway out of Durban were set alight. Cars were stoned. Grocery stores looted. And they threaten to continue until their "hero" is released. Commercial centers in affected cities were shut down. Videos of looters grabbing goods from stores went viral. President Ramaphosa addressed the stunned nation at prime time, assuring an appropriate response. The army has been deployed. Arrests will be made. Vandalism and violence will not be tolerated. When I spoke to Mum on the phone this morning she was in shock and deeply disappointed. My brother too, was shattered. Mainly, he wondered about the future for his two school age boys.

Meanwhile Covid cases in South Africa are soaring. Currently over 20,000 recorded new daily cases. Hospitals are filling up. And now, with pharmacies vandalized, vaccinations are once again hampered. I'm so heartsore about this.

Global Covid news is once again turning bleak as the Delta variant wreaks havoc. In the US we are definitely looking at another wave due to vaccine rejection. For a week now the average number of new daily cases hovered around 20,000. In my county daily new cases have risen from single digit to double digits.

The UK government is sticking with the decision to fully reopen on July 19. Though new daily cases continue to rise - over 30,000 - hospitalizations are expected to be low due to a largely vaccinated population. The mindset now is on how to live with the virus.

European countries have started to see a reversal in their progress. New daily cases now climbing in France, Portugal, Greece, and Spain. It's so disappointing to see this happening.

July 13

Woke up to more horrific news from South Africa. The unrest has escalated to an alarming scale. KwaZulu-Natal is ungovernable. I watched SABC video footage of looters grabbing appliances and all manner of goods from warehouses and stores lining Umgeni Road. Police sirens could be heard but no arrests were made. It looked like anarchy. More video footage of vandalizing and looting in Soweto where again there was no police intervention. By day's end many of Durban's shopping centers and malls were burned to the ground.

Today, much anger was directed at President Cyril Ramaphosa. Why did he not take action? Yesterday he announced the deployment of the army. But the opposition party, EFF, immediately objected strongly. A political problem demands a political solution they declare. The head scratcher is what is that solution? The situation has moved from protesting Zuma's arrest into plain old criminality. When I spoke to my brother today he was absolutely crushed. He said they had heard gunshots during the night. "I've never seen anything like this in my life before," he said. Heartbreaking.

July 14

It was a calmer day in South Africa today. Looting still going on in isolated spots, but a less frightening scenario. Explanations for a reluctance to declare a State of Emergency and restraint from the army were offered by news analysts. Civilized governments do not attack civilians. A bigger concern was whether government could count on support from agencies normally used in lawless situations. The responsibility to quell the violence fell on neighborhood watch communities. At certain hotspots military personnel were deployed to help the police. Thank goodness the worst is over. Now they can return to urgent pandemic matters.

On a brighter note Daryl and I attended our first concert since our time in Sydney back in 2019. The summer festival of the Music Academy of the West is in full swing. Hahn Hall provided an intimate setting for Rachmaninoff's Trio Èlègiaque and Mozart's String Quintet in G Minor which were masterfully performed. Prior to the concert we dined at Oliver's in Montecito. Narrowing down options from their entirely plant-based menu was tricky. Artichoke cakes, jackfruit tacos and a flatbread topped with creative and flavorful stuff made for a truly satisfying meal. The vegan key lime pie for dessert was most impressive. An evening out, which required elegant attire, was such a special thing.

July 15

Mopping up operations in a stunned South Africa today. Sporadic looting and destruction still happening. Scanning SABC news clips today the focus turned to an analysis of what really happened and why. Theories abounded - from simple economics to ANC divisions to a counter-revolution. The country was a tinderbox. 

I landed on a piece from an online publication called The Daily Maverick. Professor Jane Duncan posed questions about why government institutions failed to kick in at a crisis moment? How did the Intelligence agencies not prepare for what was a clearly orchestrated attempt to destabilize the economy? She pointed out that ever since Zuma's ousting there've been extreme violent acts such as blocking the N3 with burning tires. This main transportation artery prevents essential goods from reaching much of the country. Other analyses I read pointed out that 9 years of Zuma's corruption and criminality hollowed out the nation's democratic institutions. And this was why the violence of the past days rapidly escalated and devolved into chaos. 

In summary, what really happened was that while Jacob Zuma was under investigation for his many crimes while in office, he planned his revenge. If he was going to be taken down, the country had to go down with him. So, when he turned himself in after refusing to appear in court and then resisting arrest, he'd already lined up instigators to go on the attack. Those who became obscenely rich when Zuma was president (from money meant to feed and shelter a nation) were only too willing to obey their master. Instigators lined up support and off they want, destroying vital infrastructure. The police force and the military stood back. How many of them were more loyal to Zuma than to the Ramaphosa government? And when the warehouses and grocery stores were vandalized the province's poorest helped themselves to all the goodies normally unattainable to them. Expensive sofas, state of the art appliances, TV's, food of their fantasies, etc., etc. News reporters had their cameras on the looters while reporting on live TV. The entire nation watched in horror. Was this their country?

July 19

Monday. The start of a new week. Last week was the week from hell. Awful stuff occurred all over the world. The president of Haiti was assassinated and now this impoverished nation is in chaos. In Cuba the people went on protests against the Communist regime. Germany experienced its worst flooding in decades when about 200 people lost their lives in the area close to Belgium. South Africa experienced its share of catastrophe which claimed close to 200 lives. Indonesia is experiencing a humanitarian crises from Covid and is currently the worst affected country in the world. 

The Delta variant continues on its rampage around the world, leading to new waves in countries that were close to declaring victory. The UK, which fully opened up today, is dealing with a surge similar to winter (over 50,000 new daily cases), except hospitalizations and deaths aren't a concern yet. Here in California we are definitely on our 4th wave. Sigh!!! After months of glee at declining new cases, now we're seeing huge climbs. In the past 3 days the state has clocked over 4000 new positive cases. Daily new cases in the US are now close to 30,000. It's the unvaccinated who are affected. That's half the country. And because there are no longer mitigation strategies it's become a lot easier for the virus to spread. Hopes for that predicted bright summer are on the wane. And who know what awaits us in the fall and winter!

Sydney, Australia still in lockdown. Their vaccination rate has vastly sped up. They'll soon catch up and exceed ours.

I'll end this post with good news. Last week we attended 4 Music Academy of the West concerts. Twice, we had preconcert picnic dinners with our dear friends. The pretty gardens of the academy campus provided a delightful setting for lighthearted conversation. Saturday's concert, performed by an orchestra rather than the mostly quartets and quintets at Hahn Hall, was at the Granada Theatre downtown. This gave us the opportunity to enjoy the vibrancy of the newly designed State Street - now a promenade - on a summer weekend evening. We dined at a new Italian restaurant called Opi'z where standard fare was turned into fine food by superior ingredients and creative cooking methods. At the Granada it really was a special moment to be part of an audience in a big performance hall. Of course, with Covid numbers on the rise again, we aren't entirely at ease in an indoor space with a crowd, so we masked up. Excellent conductor. Communicated with the audience with body and feet in a humorous way. The sublime music of Wagner's Siegfried Idyll and Brahm's Serenade #2 were balm for our battered spirits.

Fourth of July is Celebrated

July 5

It was definitely a very different 4th of July compared to a year ago. President Biden gave us his assurance of this when he addressed the nation on his 100th day in office in early spring. He didn't accomplish his goal of 70% adults beginning the vaccination process by this date  - through no fault of his - but we came close (67%), and the impact has been so tremendous. A year ago leaders were imploring caution as we entered the holiday weekend. Overcrowded beaches and parks were a huge concern. This year gatherings were in full swing. Firework displays were back. 

The 4th fell on a Sunday and we hosted a dinner on all three weekend evenings out in our garden. Rob and Katie on Friday evening told us all about their passion for rock climbing. They took on famous mountain slopes for multiple day climbs. Sleeping on a rock ledge? No thank you! We saw Jennifer and David for the first time since their wedding. Traveling to Tahiti was a big topic. On Sunday evening Katya, Hugh, Bruce and Janette brought potluck contributions and the 6 of us feasted on summer's bounty. We each shared our experiences and impressions of arriving in America after having lived abroad. What a great conversation theme that turned out to be since each of us had such unique perceptions.

Though our day to day lives feel so normal these days, Covid news is far from benign. The Delta variant is delivering a new plot twist, and returning pandemic news to the front pages. Delta is outcompeting the Beta strain in South Africa and has caused a steep spike in cases as the country weathers its third surge and another lockdown. The fragile economy will be crushed but there doesn't seem to be an alternative. Thankfully, Mum is now fully vaccinated. The vulnerable and the essential work force is currently prioritized for vaccination and I'm sure that will translate to a manageable situation.

More surprising is Australia. A cluster of Covid cases was traced to an airport limousine driver two weeks back. When positive cases grew to a total of 128, the premier of New South Wales imposed a lockdown. Sydney is experiencing its first lockdown since April 2020. This is major. Outbreaks in other states followed - including West Australia and a week ago Perth went into a snap lockdown after 2 cases of community spread. Australians, unnerved, are furious at the sluggish vaccination pace in their country.

The UK's surge is of interest to everyone. What impact will the Delta variant have when almost half the adult population is vaccinated? Daily new cases are currently close to 25,000. That number is expected to double in 2 weeks. However, Boris Johnson is determined to open up fully on July 19. Israel, the world's most vaccinated population, has been battling a rise in positive cases for the first time in many months. Today, they released a study showing that Pfizer is 64% effective against the Delta strain in preventing symptomatic illness, but over 90% effective in preventing hospitalizations and death. Here, in California, and in the US as a whole, our new daily cases have started to trend up. LA County's health department is suggesting that the vaccinated wear masks in indoor public settings. Not the news we want to hear after months of progress. The tension doesn't let up.

Just wanted to note that Europe is doing well. In Germany and France new daily cases are below 1,000 and vaccination has sped up. Canada is another bright spot. They now have a bigger percentage vaccinated than us.

The next weeks will reveal a lot. Data from the UK will inform exactly how serious the Delta variant is. Its transmissibility is clear, but is it more deadly? Though India took a beating from Delta, it's harder for researchers to crunch data from there. In an article I read in the Atlantic two days ago, Ashish Jha, an infectious disease expert, expressed certainty that everyone will eventually develop immunity. The unvaccinated will eventually contract the virus. It's a matter of time. 

Other News

Hogging the headlines in the past two weeks was the collapse of a high rise apartment building in Surfside, Florida. The cause, structural missteps, makes this especially tragic. Over 100 people are still buried in rubble despite ongoing rescue efforts.

Then there's the saga of the postponed 2020 Olympics in Japan. For some unfathomable reason, the host country has an overwhelming unvaccinated population. But this summer, despite controversy and concern, athletes from all over the globe will participate in the usual games we've come to expect every 4 years.

Despite the ongoing upheaval globally, life is significantly better for us here in California.

Early Summer in Post Quarantine California

June 4, 2021 

New cases: USA 17,800; California 1,168; UK 5, 274 (going up); South Africa 5,360 (going up)

The India variant dominates in the UK and is the most worrisome strain currently.

The White House is going all out to push the unvaccinated to get their shots. The goal of vaccinating 70% of American adults by July 4, though achievable, will require huge effort. Future generations are going to view this period with amazement. How could the public health situation become so politicized? A cluster of "red" states in the South have a long way to go to reach President Biden's goal. Why are so many people apathetic to the situation?

Our region is doing remarkably well. On June 3 I visited my favorite hair salon for the first time in over a year. Everyone wears masks in this transitioning time, but I was perfectly relaxed as my upbeat stylist colored and cut my overgrown, "badly in need of attention" hair. After all these month I smile rather than cringe when I look in the mirror. How wonderful it is to have no anxiety about shopping at stores or dining at restaurants. A week ago we took in the vibe at Hollister Brewing Company over craft IPA and pizza. Last night we scouted out the Funk Zone and settled for craft beer, Impossible burger, and cauliflower tacos at the very popular and atmospheric Finny's. 

This week the fog returned after a one week break. Comforting to see a return of May's typical pattern of grayness which was broken in the last 8 hotter than usual years. On a gloomy, chilly Tuesday morning I sucked in the briny air of Goleta Beach as I jogged on the damp, compact sand. A guaranteed mood booster - a discovery I made under quarantine. Two days later I went on a 20 minute run at Stow Grove (I do miss the beautiful trees and birdsong of this park), and followed that with my gym routine. I'm pleased with my fitness level. 

June 10

A hot sunny day today after a spell of chilly, foggy weather, broken fortuitously on Sunday when we experienced a "before times" day in the company of about 70 people at a wedding. Under a clear blue sky on the coastal cliffs of Dos Pueblos Canyon, Jennifer and David exchanged vows in a magical setting. What a special occasion to usher in our entry into post quarantine life! The reception in glass hothouses that were built to cultivate orchids decades ago added oodles of charm. The guests, too, were loads of fun. Most fascinating were friends of David's dad who had worked on the creation of the Lunar Rover 50 years ago. It was a beautiful day and well deserved since the pandemic forced this lovely couple to cancel their original date. The celebrations continued the next morning at Jennifer's house over a brunch feast prepared by Premi and Sri. What joy to revert to social practices that tether us to community.

That's not to say the pandemic is history. Covid numbers are climbing steeply in the UK and in South Africa where the anticipated winter surge has the country on edge. Here, in the US, experts are beginning to warn about the Delta variant (from India) which appears the most virulent strain currently. Vaccination efforts have stalled and a cluster of Southern states could avoid disaster if they followed the science. Between 15,000 and 20,000 daily new cases in the US recorded this past week. Daily deaths around 300.However, since Florida and a handful of other conservative states have stopped submitting daily reports, it's hard to discern progress.

June 15

A hot spell is upon us. Not welcome in our parched state. We fear a summer of wildfires. But, on this big day in California, everyone is smiling. Our economy is just about fully opened for the first time since March 19, 2020. Good-bye color tier system, mask mandates (except for specific circumstances which are federally mandated) and other Covid restrictions. Hello live concerts, movie theaters, nightlife, restaurants! How amazing to have arrived at this point! Over 70% of adults in the Golden state are at least partially vaccinated. Remarkably, our progress has been steady since January. 

The pandemic story is far from over though. While wealthy countries are well on the road to returning to normal, the rest of the world struggles on. The Delta variant is on a rampage. It's the reason Daryl and I made the decision to cancel our August flights to London. Covid numbers in the UK are still rising. South Africa is back under semi lockdown. India's numbers are coming down, but they are also battling a new disease called Black Fungus.

So, each new day brings good news and bad news.

June 21

For a full week a heat wave scorched the west. Luckily for us on the coast, it wasn't unbearable. Mercifully, the fog rolled in days ago, bringing in cooler weather. Out and about on the weekend - to farmer's market, beach walk, stores - the world looked normal. A small percentage of people still stay masked, but everyone else has reverted to pre-pandemic behavior.

Two big concerns dominate Covid news in our part of the world. One is the challenge of persuading the unvaccinated to get their shots. When President Biden first announced his goal of 70% of adults vaccinated by July 4, it seemed perfectly within reach. Now, nobody expects that goal to be attained. I'm pretty disappointed about that and trying to understand what the government could've done about it. Could they have educated the public better? Should there be daily CDC messages that are broadcast widely? Are they addressing the questions individuals still have?

The other Covid concern is the Delta variant. Experts are now warning that case numbers are likely to go up in regions with large numbers of unvaccinated people. The nation's progress is about to hit another roadblock.

On the bright side Daryl and I will be on vacation for the entire month of August. Vacation! Something we could only dream about a year ago. This year we have the opportunity to do something unusual - domestic travel, specifically, a road trip up the Northwest, all the way up Highway 1 to the Olympic Peninsula, then turning back south through the Cascades on our return. Nature and scenic wonder are the focus of this vacation, which is why we won't stop in Seattle or Portland even though they are on our route. We spent 3 intensive days planning a route and booking accommodation. National Parks are already fully booked through the summer months. Our lodgings for the month will be a combination of friend's homes, tent camping, hotels, lodges, cabins and an Airbnb. Though I can't wait to get started, I'm just as eager to enjoy summer at home. Al fresco summer fare with friends, daily swims, evening strolls, beach walks - so much to enjoy.

Post Quarantine Times

May 25

Santa Barbara recorded only 3 positive coronavirus cases on May 24. Single digit daily cases all week, but LA county, in the yellow tier, has been doing better than us for a while. 

During the week of May 16 to 23 the USA dropped to an average of 25,000 new positive cases. Today 50% of the adult population is fully vaccinated. 

The UK is still seeing around 2,500 new cases. South Africa is hovering at just below 3000 new daily cases. Still unsure about traveling to England in August.

May 27

Today's leading Covid news addressed the lab leak theory. US experts are exploring the possibility of a virus escape from the Wuhan Coronavirus Research Lab as the cause of the pandemic. However, they feel more strongly that the origin was zoonotic (from a bat to an intermediary host).

Cases continue to decline - now hovering between 20,000 - 25,000 new daily infections. But it's still a struggle to convince people to get vaccinated. The anti-vax movement is robust and the large percentage who receive information through their network aren't budging. Confirmation bias hindering our progress.

Over 3,000 new cases in the UK - 70% due to Indian variant. South Africa's numbers climbing - they recorded over 4000 on May 26. India's recorded numbers on a decline, but rural areas where the virus is spreading rapidly aren't equipped with testing facilities. Global daily cases on a decline largely due to Europe's excellent vaccination progress. Situation in Latin America still out of control.

On a different note - Brood X, the 17 year periodic cicadas have emerged in the North East of the USA. Photos and videos of their mating cries are everywhere.

June 1

It's the Tuesday after Memorial Day weekend. What a contrast to last year! Before the start of the holiday weekend there was a tone of excitement and optimism. Newspaper photos of the crowds waiting to board flights at airports were portrayed as a celebration. No finger-waving and head-shaking like last year. 

We, too, were swept up by the mood. We had our first overnight guests since March 2020. The joyful presence of our LA friends, Rayann and Marlene, elevated the weekend to something special. We shared special meals, heartfelt conversations, and went on a jaunt to Lake Los Carneros. The highlight was Saturday dinner on our patio. Premi and Sri joined us. Premi's vegan ceviche kicked off the meal. A chilled Rosé teamed well with it. My zucchini tart, the centerpiece, was matched with a robust Paso Robles red blend provided by Rayann. Dessert was Premi's fragrant, creamy carrot halwa. Indeed, it was a celebration of so many things.

On Monday we joined Stephen and Jacqueline for lunch at their new home in a residential compound. We hadn't experienced their legendary hospitality for a good, long while. What a delight to sit out on their shaded patio (with a view of a green cliff) and over a multi-course meal - in the traditional European style typical of them - hit as many current topics as possible! Four hours of conviviality reinforced this new, exciting phase we've entered.

Before the weekend ended Daryl and I worked off the calories we'd stuffed into our bodies on the pleasant San Antonio Creek trail which starts at Tucker's Grove. The last hours of daylight were ideal for this trail. Lots of shade, perfect temperature and a fair amount of elevation gain. Quite an endorphin rush.

Before going to sleep I surveyed the Covid landscape. The USA recorded just 8,100 new cases on Memorial Day. Yes, it was a holiday weekend when fewer tests are conducted, etc. Still. The UK recorded close to 4000 new cases. The India variant is stirring up trouble everywhere, especially in previously successful Asian countries like Vietnam, Malaysia, regions in China, Taiwan. Also learned that WHO has started assigning Greek letters to name the recent variants of concern to prevent stigmatizing countries. It appears that India has past its peak and is now on a decline. Same is true of Brazil. Europe is on a successful path - like we were months ago. I'm hopeful that they're on a one way road to success.

Last week Governor Gavin Newsom joined the lottery offer bandwagon as incentive to energize vaccinations in this state. Cash prizes of large sums of money will be awarded to individuals selected in a random drawing of all vaccinated Californians. Will it work? I haven't yet come across information on what effect the announcement has had. I'm guessing much thought had gone into this and maybe we'll have enough excitement to push the percentage up enough so that we can stabilize this comfortable situation we are currently enjoying.

Springing Out of Covid Captivity

May 13 

The CDC stunned us all on May 13 when it announced that vaccinated people can ditch their masks. Everyone's going, "Wha--wha--what?" Sure, we must still cover up in a crowded situation, healthcare setting, or public transportation, but this is a turning point. A year of imploring the nation to wear a face covering has instilled something in us. Somehow, letting go of this tangible piece of fabric feels a bit radical. City and state ordinances have to be heeded, so, in California, we continue to mask up at Trader Joe's and the Farmer's Market for another month. But outdoors - at beaches and parks - we're seeing bare faces again.

Dr. Kizzmekia Corbett, at an MSNBC town hall on May 12, in addressing vaccine hesitancy, dazzled me with her brilliance. I came across this lead scientist of the Moderna vaccine last summer on the CNN website. She was the first bright spark after lockdown, assuring us that an effective vaccine was on the way. I hadn't seen what she looked like until the other day when I caught the second half of the town hall streaming live on YouTube. Dr. Fauci and Surgeon General Vivek Murthy were among the panel of experts available to address concerns. I was impressed at their patience and respect toward the guests who asked questions. Then Kizzy Corbett came on. A striking black woman, young, full of self-confidence, with a sparkling personality. She described the research she'd been working on for years that led to the mRNA vaccine. And I wondered why this amazing scientist isn't splashed all over the media.

The battle to persuade the hesitant to get vaccinated is on. Governors have come up with incentives. Most notably, in Ohio 5 vaccinated residents will win a one million dollar lottery. Businesses are doing their part. Free Krispy Kreme doughnuts. Free beer. McDonald's displaying messages on cups.

May 16

My goodness! The backlash to the CDC's mask guidelines has been something. How to implement this? How to catch unvaccinated cheaters? The pivot has bewildered everyone. Six weeks ago we were told we're looking into the eye of the B1.1.7 hurricane. A month ago, the director, Dr. Walensky pleaded for adherence to safety protocols. Their warnings must've worked. There was indeed a slight surge in April, but vaccination efforts kicked into high gear right then. A steady drop in Covid numbers began, and despite the emergence of another frightening variant from India - the B1.617 - Dr. Rochelle Walensky tells us vaccinated people can revert to pre-Covid times. The decision is science based, data driven. More importantly, Covid numbers are low. On Worldometers today, a Sunday, the USA recorded 17, 834 new infections. The lowest since March 25, 2020. The exit doors are now visible!

Comfortable with outdoor dining

Life out of captivity is super. Leslie hosted our first in person book group on May 14. We were ten people around a table dining on potluck contributions. Socked in by heavy fog in the past 2 weeks, we had to be indoors. A beautiful evening - which felt simultaneously normal and novel. Conversation hopped from topic to topic - our skills a bit rusty. But we relished our moments together and felt so grateful for our privilege as Americans. In fact, Linda's sister, Ann from Florence, Italy, was with us because she had flown here to get vaccinated.

It's great to be relaxed about dining at a restaurant again. For now we opt to be seated outdoors -especially as it's spring time. This week we pigged out on the creative offerings of Masala Spice, an Indian restaurant a mile from home. It felt poetic since this was the last place we'd dined at before lockdown in March 2020.

India is still in crisis mode. Now, an extremely severe cyclone is walloping the west coast of the country. The B1.167 variant on a rampage in that country has become a concern in the UK. It appears to dominate over the B117. What havoc is it going to cause just as the UK is preparing to loosen protocols? Globally, new daily infections are on a decline. Let's hope this trend holds forever.

Eclipsing Covid news is the conflict in the Gaza strip. In retaliation to rockets fired by Hamas, Israel launched air strikes. Two vastly unequal powers militarily. The Palestinians at the losing end.

May 20

The sun appeared this week and today spring warmth has returned. Mum in South Africa received her first Pfizer shot today at the Ladysmith Provincial Hospital. The country opened up vaccinations to its senior population on May 17 and amazingly just 3 days later she was able to show up without an appointment and get her shot. Let's hope things go smoothly and rapidly as winter approaches there.

Just found out that Israel and Hamas have agreed to a cease-fire. Thank goodness! An 11 day nightmare over. But the root causes - ousting Palestinians from East Jerusalem and other places - haven't been addressed and this has to be a priority in the coming months.

At this stage of the pandemic my motivation to keep this blog is falling. So I want to record current Covid numbers. The USA - now in 4th place on Worldometers, below Argentina - recorded 28,500 new infections. In California there were 1,477 new cases. South Africa is experiencing hotspots and they recorded 3,500 new cases. The UK recorded 2,600 new cases - a slight rise due to the B1.617.2 variant.

Looking ahead I'm guessing the wealthiest countries will emerge out of the pandemic within the next 6 months. The developing world will need resources from the USA and Europe to deal with their disasters. After India, Latin America is in bad shape. It seems like they've been in this state all through the pandemic. Outside intervention is badly needed.

Covid Update in Late Spring

 May 10

In the first weirdly wonderful week of May, my daily routine changed to absorb new activities that are now available to me as a fully vaccinated person in a place where Covid is on the wane. Having access to my gym pool again is such a big deal that I made it my first destination every morning after my caffeine fix. A jacuzzi soak before and after a swim never felt so luxurious, especially with the thick fog that ushered in the month. As week 2 begins I must be more disciplined and include cardio exercise. My stamina on the exercise bike and cross trainer the first time after a 14 month pause amazed me. The outside setting works better than indoors at the moment with the weather as cool as it is. We call it May Gray. Almost everyday in the last 2 weeks the sky has been the color of slate and the air crisp, bordering on chilly. Nobody complains. Fire season is upon us and foggy days lower the risk. I gulp in fresh air, listen to a podcast or audiobook, and pump the pedals as hard as I can manage. An unbeatable way to start the day.

A podcast favorite is "Pod Save the World" hosted by Ben Rhodes and Tommy Vietor. This pair of Obama administration alumni deliver informative current news focused on foreign policy. Rhodes impressed me with his political astuteness in his masterful memoir "The World As It Is" in which he describes his 8 years working with President Obama. In fact I found his rendition of key moments far more absorbing than Obama's in his memoir "The Promised Land". On the podcast Ben and Tommy have enthused about Biden appointees and go behind the scenes on issues regarding the Middle East, China, etc. So I exercise both body and mind simultaneously!

Change is definitely the operative word these days. This week we cancelled our CSA farm box. Farmer's market shopping is back on our weekly agenda. Getting out in public means paying more attention to my clothes and appearance. I now have to wriggle back into skinny jeans and dig up favorite tops that have been hibernating in my closet. I'm hoping to have my hair cut later this week - after 14 months!

The house has to be clean and tidy all the time. Two days last week friends (vaccinated, of course) dropped in unexpectedly. Then, on the weekend we had friends over for dinner. Conversations these days are funny. Inevitably, everyone asks whether you had Pfizer or Moderna followed by a sharing of side effects after the 2nd dose. Giddy times. Until you check the news.

Today's Covid live updates on CNN and the New York Times were refreshingly positive for the US. Daily infections continue to decline and the numbers are now as low as they were in September 2020. No state is experiencing an increase in daily cases. Roughly 50% of American adults have had at least one dose of the vaccine. Health experts are saying that when we get to 60% the Covid scene will dramatically change. Exponential decay, one guessed. Wow! The FDA is evaluating the Pfizer vaccine for 12 - 15 year olds and could green light it by Thursday. Most welcome news here in Santa Barbara where outbreaks among high school kids have become frequent.

But it's hard to feel excited. The developing world is struggling with vaccination efforts. India's crisis hasn't abated. Brazil's numbers are still explosive. The variant driving India's numbers has spread around the globe. WHO deems it a VOC. That's something to make us nervous. South Africa is bracing for a winter surge and their infectious disease experts are expressing worry about the India variant. The country has received Pfizer shipments and they're about to begin vaccinating their senior population.

Much of Europe is making excellent progress with vaccinating their population. New Covid infections are finally on a decline in France, Germany and Turkey. Deaths in the UK are nearing 0. On May 17, Covid restrictions will end. Since much of the population is still waiting for their second dose, we're keeping our fingers crossed. If things continue to improve we are likely to spend the month of August in England.

Covid isn't the only topic on our minds these days. There's plenty of other interesting stuff competing for attention. At the moment everyone is talking about a unique species of cicadas found in the Southeast USA. They are periodic cicadas and areabout to emerge from underground 17 years after the eggs were laid. They will trill loudly, mate, lay eggs and die. Then 17 years from now ... Side note: There's also a 13 year periodic species of cicadas.

I'm so looking forward to the sounds of a summer that promises to be bright out here.

May Starts Merrily for Me

 May 3

When I looked at Facebook today I was amazed that not a single ad for face masks appeared. Wow, it really is a transition time. Unlike anything I've ever experienced. Now that many in my orbit are fully vaccinated life is different. On the last day of April Premi and Sri dined with us at the same table out on our patio where the light and temperature provided charming ambience for this big moment. Then, after a scrumptious dessert of rhubarb tart from Gypsy Hill Bakery - run by a Londoner out of her private kitchen - when it got chilly, we continued our energetic conversation indoors, in our living room. It felt wildly special. This simple act that we used to take for granted in the before times, deprived of for 14 months, took on new meaning.

Two days later we ferried a meal of Spanish tortilla, grilled zucchini and blueberry cobbler over to our friends Anna and Petar who live a mile from our place. In the past 12 months we visited them weekly, sitting at separate tables spaced out on their deck enjoying wine, chitchat and satisfying mountain views. On Sunday, May 2, we were able to sit at the same table and enjoy a meal together. We sure missed that intimate, convivial social experience.

Another huge moment was when I swam for the first time in 14 months on the first day of May. A warm, spring Saturday morning ensured a delightful welcome. When my fitness center re-opened in June 2020, it was dramatically redesigned for outdoor workouts in accordance with Covid protocols. So, even though Santa Barbara remained in the strictest purple tier through much of the pandemic, GVAC, in limiting its membership, was able to stay open. Gyms were deemed high risk so I kept away. Until now. The pool area is now surrounded by cardio machines and weights arranged under shade awnings. A soak in the jacuzzi followed by pool laps never felt as heavenly as it did on that first day back at the gym. My upper arms hurt afterwards. It delighted me.

California's Covid numbers are as low as they were last spring - below 2000 new daily cases and fewer than 50 daily deaths. In the US the 14 day average of new daily cases now hovers at 50,000, a big decline from 2 weeks ago. A few states are still struggling with increases. Oregon has some hotspots, which surprises me. We've learned and continue to learn that things can change. It is reassuring that health officials are projecting optimism. The biggest Covid concerns in the US are about persuading people to get their vaccine shots. Everyone has an opinion on how to do this, but the general feeling is that a large enough percentage won't budge. Herd immunity may not be a realistic goal.

Every morning we wake up to distressing news of India's crisis. The Modi government celebrated too early and are paying dearly. Election rallies and the Kumbh Mela pilgrimage turned out to be super spreader events that produced the 2nd wave that India had astonishingly avoided until now.

I can't believe a third of the year is over. And what a messy process the global vaccination process is turning out to be. If Americans are more co-operative with health officials, and get things under control here, it would free up the government to provide much needed help to the developing world.

May 5

On NPR's Morning Edition I felt sick to hear a report of thousands of expired AstraZeneca vaccine dumped by a few African countries due to their inability to deploy and disseminate their supplies. This, while an India in crisis is in dire need of these life-saving vaccines! What a tragic situation! And here in the US unused vaccine supplies have to be trashed too due to stubborn resistance. Health officials are scratching their heads, struggling to figure out how to persuade half the adult US population that vaccines are the only exit strategy from the pandemic.

Along with distressing stuff is plenty of good stuff. Daryl and I strolled on State Street for the first time since it was transformed to be pedestrianized. Utterly delightful it was, especially because the Tuesday Farmer's Market lent its vibrancy. Calmly sauntering among masked locals, it was spring's bounty on full display that hogged our attention. Purchasing rhubarb, apricots, Harry's strawberries (the best in the universe), and cherries were as stress free as the before times. The many new and atmospheric wine bars, breweries and restaurants with big outdoor seating areas are reasons State Street will undoubtedly become a weekly ritual for us.

After absorbing State Street's charm we joined Stephen and Jacqueline for a meal at Zaytoons. Our first sit down meal at a restaurant since last March. It's quite the hot spot in town, largely because of their Mediterranean style  courtyard. Tables, each with its own fire centerpiece, spaced out and surrounded by planter box hedges for added intimacy, a central fountain, and gorgeous landscaping provide an unbeatable setting. Stephen and I splurged on their "Spring Fling" cocktail - elderflower, cucumber and vodka - to celebrate this moment. Over a shared Vegetarian Feast( composed of Middle Eastern mezzes) we caught up on all that had happened since we were last together - many months ago.

The first days of May have really exposed how rocky this part of the pandemic journey is turning out to be. In particular, while wealthy countries are hurtling toward normal, the developing world struggles on.

Rolled Up My Sleeve for 2nd Shot

 April 16

We woke up to another mass shooting - the 45th one this month! Eight people were killed at a FedEx facility in Indianapolis. Yesterday we heard about yet another victim of a police shooting. A 13 year old Latino boy who had responded to police commands and was not a threat! When will this carnage end?

Globally, the mood is also despondent. Covid numbers are at their highest level worldwide despite vaccination efforts. India now reports over 200,000 new daily cases, triggered by a mega Hindu festival and driven by new worrisome variants. Brazil continues to see around 80,000 new daily infections. Much of the world experiencing vaccine shortages and challenges.

It's a weird reversal to now be in the more advantageous position. A quarter of adult Americans are fully vaccinated. In California half the adult population has had at least one vaccine shot. The road ahead, however, is by no means smooth. The nation's daily new cases hovers at just below 80,000. Michigan's crisis isn't letting up. But California's progress is a thrill. Our region will move to a less restrictive tier next week. Various organizations have started preparing for summer re-openings. Concerts at the Hollywood Bowl will be performed all summer.

April 20, 2021

On April 19, 2021, I received my second Pfizer dose at the DeWees Community Center in Lompoc where a mass vaccination clinic was set up. It was a smooth process, well-organized and efficient. How lucky I am to live in a wealthy part of the world and have access to inoculation just 4 months after vaccines débuted! It was lunchtime so Daryl (who dutifully accompanied me) and I drove out to Industrial Eats in Buellton for wood-fired flatbread to celebrate. 

Four hours after my jab I began to feel drowsy. Then my head began to pound. I lay in bed, listening to NPR. I started to feel woozy, as if I'd just been on a rollercoaster ride. Daryl could hear me moaning. He dashed over to CVS down Fairview Avenue for Tylenol. I didn't take any. My headache vanished after an hour. I developed a low grade fever and felt drained of energy. Four hours later, the bothersome symptoms dissipated. I was hungry, but could only tolerate something bland. Smashed avocado on a slice of toasted sourdough did the trick. By the time I brushed my teeth and turned in for the night I felt more or less normal again. I'm so glad I was prepared for possible side effects. My 4 hours of discomfort didn't worry me in the least. The vaccine was doing its job of revving up my immune system. 

Our relatives in the UK are excited for a loosening of restrictions after months of strict lockdown. New daily cases there now just under 3000 and daily deaths below 50. I was thrilled to see that South Africa has dropped to 20th position of total cases on Worldometers. Their daily infections rose a tad, attributed to Easter activities, but in general, they are maintaining a low infection rate. Thank goodness! My nephews, Cayden and Shrayen, love being able to go to school. Now they are impatient for normal interactions with their friends. Still a long road for them, and one with bumps, I'm sure. In a month or two, as winter approaches, they may not be able to avoid a third wave. Vaccination efforts are moving along. Their senior population has been invited to register online for appointments which will start in May.

Other big news: The Derek Chauvin trial has dominated the headlines in the past 2 weeks. This was the cop who knelt on George Floyd's neck for 9 minutes last May. Witnesses for the prosecution were emotional and authentic. A guilty verdict on all murder charges, much to the relief of many of us, was announced early this afternoon. 

Major accomplishment: A helicopter took off on Mars, flew a short distance and landed successfully. Another NASA triumph!

April 23

Day 4 since my 2nd vaccine shot. As my body builds antibodies I've been dreaming about how my life will change soon. When I return to the gym and dine at restaurants, the world around me will approach normal. California now has the lowest infection rate in the entire country. Even better news, this week's Covid numbers show a nationwide decline in infection rates. Michigan appears to be past its peak. Phew! What makes us nervous now is a decline in the rate of vaccination. Supply has exceeded demand nationwide. The Johnson and Johnson vaccine is available again. The small number of adverse reactions have been analyzed carefully to figure out better treatments. Hey, people, let's do it! Go get your shot!

Outside the USA, the picture is bleak. The situation in India is horrendous. New daily infections at record breaking highs - past 300,000. Hospitals overflowing, oxygen shortages, the healthcare system unable to cope.

April 26

On Sunday, April 25, I went inside another person's house for the first time in 13 months. Premi and Sri hosted Sunday afternoon tea for a group of 7 fully vaccinated close friends. How sweet it felt to sit around the same table and engage in convivial chitchat with people we care about and whose company we relish. We stuffed ourselves with exquisite samosas, fenugreek dokla (an Indian savory bread), scones with cream and jam, homemade cheesecake, homemade baklava, and moist lemon cake (my contribution). Chai tea for the caffeine drinkers and herbal teas for the rest of us kept us hydrated. We hadn't seen Rayann and Marlene for close to two years. Much had happened in that time. Many challenges navigated. It was great to see Monica from the Bay Area again. Conversation was understandably robust.

Many parts of the world can only dream of the state we find ourselves in in California. Currently, India is in a crisis. For 5 consecutive days they broke the global record of new daily cases. But the 350,000 reported numbers are an undercount due to inadequate testing. Heartwrenching reports of oxygen shortages, overwhelmed hospitals, and awful deaths point to a situation worse than anywhere else in the world at any time in the pandemic. Immensely relieved to hear that the USA and the EU are stepping in to help. Other countries are lending their support too.

April 30

President Biden addressed congress a day before his 100th day in office on April 28. In a speech equivalent to the State of the Union he described his accomplishments, mainly the heartily welcome pandemic progress, and outlined a bold, ambitious vision for the future. His focus is on the economy, climate change, immigration, infrastructure, Russia and China. Media pundits have compared Biden's aspirations to Lyndon Johnson. The left, for now, is unified in their approval of Biden. We're in good hands for now and that feels tremendous.

As April comes to an end, the Covid picture is mixed. New infections in the USA are dropping. How good it feels to see the trend lines. Daily deaths below a 1000. Michigan now out of its nightmare. Parts of the country are seeing surges, but overall it looks like we're heading toward the exit. On April 27, the CDC loosened mask requirements for the outdoors. For vaccinated people masks aren't necessary unless it's a crowded setting. I noticed masks instantly ditched at the parks and by the beaches.

Now that vaccines are available everywhere at any time in this country it'll be interesting to watch the progress. We have a long way to go. A third of the country is fully vaccinated. The sooner the skeptics trust the science, the sooner we'll reach that light at the end of the tunnel.

Inching toward Normal times

April 10

It's been quite a literary week for me. Both my book groups met up this past week. On Wednesday evening we had an incredibly robust discussion on Zoom. Our selection, The Friend, sparked opinions and musings from everyone, each weighing in from their unique perspective. The book reads like a memoir, but it's a work of fiction covering themes of love, loss, relationships, pet dogs, writers, and the craft of writing. There's much philosophizing and analysis. The Zoom platform kept us disciplined - one speaker at a time - - sticking to the topic. Our next meeting in May will be like normal times at Leslie's home. We'll all be fully inoculated so we'll be sharing potluck contributions, and chatting unmasked. 

I met up with my other group (all fully vaccinated) in a garden under the shade of mature oaks to discuss the biography of Edward S. Curtis. He was a famous photographer of American Indians, and contributed significantly to our knowledge of native traditions. Our discussion was mellow, but it was great to see everyone in this period of transitioning toward normal.

This week I started reading Barack Obama's A Promised Land. I'm loving it. It's surprisingly accessible, and full of stuff that re-affirms my admiration for this remarkable individual that we were fortunate enough to have as a leader for eight years.

April 13

Good and bad news characterizes this phase of the pandemic. Now there's more supply than demand of vaccines. Discussions about when we can expect to reach herd immunity excite us. California may arrive there in mid-June to July. While daily new infections in the US are on a slow rise, California's trend remains good. 

Distressing news is a constant. Today the Johnson and Johnson vaccine has been paused in the US. The first roadblock in the vaccination process since the Biden administration turned the pandemic situation around in the country. Six cases of blood clotting, including a death and a hospitalization is under review to determine linkage to the vaccine. The impact on the US isn't huge, since the government has secured adequate mRNA vaccines for all adult Americans. Europe and South Africa, which also paused use of the J&J vaccine, can't afford any more hurdles after the AstraZeneca headaches.

Overall though, things are looking up. Yesterday (April 12), for the first time in 14 months, Daryl and I spent the entire day on the road. We hoped to capture some of the exhilarating experience we'd had in 2019 on a loop that took us past Ojai through the rugged Wheeler Gorge landscape, the unspoiled Sespe, and then across an agricultural stretch before heading west on Soda Lake Road to the Carrizo Plains. A wet winter two years ago resulted in an explosion of wildflowers carpeting the landscape. Of course, the meagre rain this past winter kept our expectations low. Still, the scarcity of poppies and lupines and total absence of desert blooms astonished us. Clumps of flowering ceonothis on mountain slopes offered some satisfaction, but the already colorless landscape was dispiriting. Nevertheless, the drive out of town marked a change in our psyche. A signifier of a change from a year ago.

Sespe Wilderness as seen from Highway 33

Soda Lake Road is a narrow, unpaved road and for quite a long stretch the landscape is barren. Tumbleweeds provide the main entertainment. Then patches of white appear (salt pans). In a wet year the desert blooms would be at their peak in April. We ate our picnic lunch (focaccia, avocado, cheese, salad, fruit) at what would have been the heart of the area's beauty.

Salt Pan - Carrizo Plains

We gazed at the beige hills framing the plains, willing them to turn bright yellow like we'd seen them on our previous trip. We discerned hints of yellow and a bleak telegraphing of many months of fire threat in store.

The drive west to Santa Margarita was remarkably windy with steep climbs and descents. A coffee stop at the sleepy hamlet jolted our spirits for the simple reason that it was the first time in over a year that we were consuming coffee from a cafe. We were back in the world of people!

We hit the highway, crossed Cuesta Grade and exited at Shell Beach for gas and cake from our favorite Deli. Lemon bars and more coffee deserved to be enjoyed with a seaview. On this fine sunny day there were tons of people of all ages around us, but we were completely relaxed a safe distance away on a park bench with an unobstructed view of the blue expanse and iconic cliffs. 

Next, we headed to Pismo Beach. It's become quite the la-di-da beach town, thrumming with visitors. 

Pismo Beach Pier

We strolled to the end of the finely constructed pier, took in the views and then the wide stretch of sandy beach tempted us. It was low tide too and since we'd been in the car all day, a long, long walk in this gorgeous setting was the obvious way to round off our day's excursion.

Our minds are already on the post-pandemic future. Plans for the summer of 2022 already in nascent stages.