When Daryl and I planned a one month road trip - our first vacation since March 2020 - all signs pointed to a summer of freedom and joy. But two weeks before our departure the Delta variant went on a rampage, yanking us out of our post-pandemic complacency. Luckily, our vacation was centered around the outdoors and we were able to accomplish much of what we set out to do.
From our Goleta, California home we headed north, hugging the coast as much as possible up to the Olympic Peninsula in the state of Washington. From there we turned southward, heading inland, first to Mount Rainier National Park, then to the Columbia River Gorge, Mount Hood, the Central Cascades of Oregon, west to Eugene, south past Mt. Shasta and ended in Berkeley, California.
Driving up Highway 1 on a cloudless summer day, our spirits soared. It was a Sunday and everywhere we stopped - Shell Beach for a picnic lunch, Morro Bay's waterfront to smile at otters, the San Simeon pier for a stroll - vivacious families were out and about. Pandemic? What pandemic? On our first night we decamped at the official start of the Big Sur Coast, a headland occupied by the overpriced Ragged Point Inn. From a strategically situated bench on their landscaped grounds we gawked at rugged cliffs and churning ocean over a picnic dinner which included a delicate artichoke tart (also overpriced) from the onsite restaurant.
The next morning we negotiated steep curves on an improbable highway carved into California's Coastal Range. Thankfully, the large number of pull-outs enabled full enjoyment of the jaw dropping views from dizzying heights. Big Sur was sizzling in summer heat when we made our first stop at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. California Condors circled overhead, offering a ceremonial welcome.
 |
Waterfall at Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur
|
The trail was only partially open due to recent fire destruction, but we managed to get to a viewpoint from where we could see the highlight - a waterfall, barely visible and overshadowed by the shapely cliffs and water hues. On a previous visit years ago the waterfall was a mesmerizing spectacle as it spewed out a great volume of crystal clear water. The effects of years of drought were hard to ignore right from the start of our trip.
Two Big Sur favorites had to be sacrificed. Nepenthe - due to an endless line of cars at the entrance - and the Big Sur Bakery - closed on a Monday. But a picnic lunch (burritos) followed by a leisurely stroll on Pfeiffer Beach under a cloudless sky amply compensated for that. Quite a lot of people were enjoying this picturesque beach, which felt a bit strange. A scene from normal times. Covid numbers were on the rise. Was it just a tease before everyone retreated again?
 |
| Estuary near Point Reyes |
We had a full morning to appreciate Marin County's beguiling coast when, at sunrise on a Tuesday morning we drove in dense fog to beat the traffic across the Golden Gate Bridge. We'd spent the night in Half Moon Bay, where we had dined at an excellent Indian restaurant after a vigorous beach walk. Bridge and city skyline views were well hidden as we wound up the coastal mountain on the north side of the bridge and descended down to Stinson Beach. What a delightful place with its posh cafes and stores bordering an inviting park! We couldn't have asked for a better breakfast stop to enjoy our first cafe croissant and coffee of our vacation.
Later in the morning when we stopped at Point Reyes for lunch supplies we were fully reminded of the pandemic. Starting that morning masks were again mandated to enter all public indoor spaces in 5 Bay area counties. This was California's most vaccinated county, populated by a largely upper middle class progressive demographic. No wonder it was so easy to find rustic bread, local cheeses and lush salad produce for a picnic lunch!
 |
| Humboldt State Park |
It's shameful that it's taken us this long to visit the famous redwood forests in Humboldt County and north toward the state border. There was never any doubt that we'd love the experience. That was why we decided to go for full immersion and camp in the forest for three nights. Before arriving at our first campground I was apprehensive about evening weather. We'd just spent a couple days with friends near Mendocino where a persistent chill had numbed my toes and fingertips the whole time. Would the temperature and fog be worse further north? Not at all. We were blessed with bright sunshine, warm days, warm evenings everyday. Days on trails that wove around ancient giants followed by evenings around the campfire felt cleansing, therapeutic, restorative. The drive up the Avenue of Giants through Humboldt State Park - a narrow stretch flanked by towering beauties - was an experience that will stay with me forever.
To get to Del Norte State Park from Humboldt, Daryl chose the more adventurous route via Mattole Road. We stopped a few times along the first third of what was more a lane than a road to hike through groves of ancient, majestic redwoods. About a third of the way along the road the forest receded. The surface, now unpaved, became increasingly rougher. I held my breath as we climbed up a windy bit, anxious about the miles ahead. How much worse was it going to get? What a joyful moment when we finally saw the ocean and merged with Highway 101!
 |
| Smith River at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park |
Warm, sunny weather in the northernmost part of coastal California surprised me. Thankfully, the forest shade ensured perfect hiking conditions. On our last day in the redwoods as we dodged hikers on a popular trail we unexpectedly emerged onto an open area with full sun exposure. A serenely gorgeous river - the Smith River - came into view and a lot of foot traffic headed toward a gravelly bank. Daryl was not going to pass up the opportunity to cool off in that clear water. Quite the symbolic way to bid adieu to this unique bit of our planet.
Oregon
 |
Winchester Bay, Oregon Coast
|
A saunter on the untamed beaches of the Pacific Northwest guarantees a dopamine spike. Forest clad mountains meet sandy beaches. Driftwood piles mimic elaborate works of sculpture. Rocky beaches at low tide expose a great variety of sea creatures. Crossing into Oregon the visual splendor is magnified. Craggy headlands. River mouths. Lush forests. And picnic areas and trails to admire the scenery are plentiful, accessible and free. So much more egalitarian than California where you have to pay a $10 fee to enter beaches which form part of the state park system. In southern Oregon we climbed up dunes on wide sandy beaches, then meandered over toward the river bank via a forest. The coast road was busy, many camper vans and RV's, and the entire stretch was pretty built up with a chain of towns - each uniquely cute - merging into each other all the way up to the Columbia River mouth.
 |
| Oregon beach close to Washington border |
Closer to Washington the beaches were rockier. On a deserted beach near Seaside, Oregon we were astounded by the sea creatures on a creviced rock. We desperately needed a mood boost because we had just spent a disappointing night at an overpriced awful motel in Garibaldi, a modest fishing village north of Tillamook. Our timing was perfect. The tide was out and there was so much to see. The many bright red starfish stole the show and filled us with joy.
 |
| Bridge at Astoria |
Before leaving Oregon we pulled into a viewpoint to admire the stunning bridge at the mouth of the Columbia River. Astoria, on the river bank, looked attractive, and we were tempted to explore lunch options there, but Covid numbers in the state were shooting up. We drove on, across that impressive bridge, and a short while later arrived at a picnic area with water views. A peaceful, safe place to enjoy a lunch of bread, cheese, salad and fruit.
Washington
 |
| Sunset from Ocean Crest Resort, Moclips, WA |
Ocean Crest Resort at Moclips is not one of those pretentious five star places, but our two nights here felt indulgent and luxurious. Perched up on a vertiginous cliff overlooking the Pacific, this was a place to engage full vacation mode. The pool, jacuzzi, sauna, massage rooms and exercise rooms were inside a giant wooden structure which oozed Scandinavian charm. We could easily have spent our entire two days in the pool and sauna. But the beach below the resort, reached by descending a wooden staircase, was so irresistible. And it went on for miles in each direction. All around the hotel grounds there were seating areas to enjoy sublime sea views, which climaxed at sunset. This far north the spectacle occurred close to 9:00 PM in early August.
For evening meals we drove to the planned upmarket community of Seabrook, two miles south of Ocean Crest Resort. Over an unforgettable wood-fired pizza on one evening and an exquisite Mexican meal the next, the town's character revealed itself. I was reminded of a typical European small town in summer with vibrant cafes and locals hanging out in public spaces. Seabrook was a 21st century version of such a place. No doubt a wealthy, urban set lived in the stately two storeyed homes that fringed the downtown core.
 |
Lake Quinault
|
A week in the Olympic National Park was next on our itinerary. Research, which included advice from friends, helped us create a sensible plan that ensured sufficient time for the main attractions. It was a short drive from Moclips to Lake Quinault, a serene lake framed by forested hills. We captured this photo from the lawn of the historic Lake Quinault Lodge. In the temperate rainforest nearby we followed a one mile loop which served as a primer to the park's old growth firs, cedars and hemlocks. Ferns, mosses and a gurgling creek enhanced an already enjoyable walk.
The Pacific Northwest was gripped by a heat dome on that day- the second one this summer. As a result, the day's highlight, the Hoh Rainforest, was far from a typical experience.
 |
Hoh River and the Hoh Rainforest
|
It was impossible to imagine the usual chill and dampness of the area as we endured tropical temperatures and humidity. Moss-covered tree trunks and vivid ferns seemed unreal. The trails were crowded, something we anticipated with dread when we had to wait a whole hour in bumper to bumper traffic at the entrance to this section of the park. The trail along the Hoh River goes on for miles and miles, providing ample opportunity to be wowed by Sitka Spruce, Douglas Fir, Red Cedar and Western Hemlock. But by late afternoon heat exhaustion hit and our day in paradise had to end.
Intense heat lingered for days. Fortuitously, the beaches west of Forks - our base for the western part of the park- were on the schedule.
 |
Rialto Beach near Forks, WA
|
Second Beach at La Push, accessed via a trail through rainforest, reminded me of the beaches in Thailand. Tall rock stacks, like the karsts of South East Asia, jut out of the water close to shore. Emerald forests come right down to a wide, sandy beach. But it was Rialto Beach that stole my heart. Here, the rock stacks reminded me of mythical characters. Walking on the rocky beach felt like a foot massage. I picked up smooth, polished rocks, admired their colors and shapes and hated having to toss them back.
 |
Sol Duc Waterfalls
|
Between the unremarkable, logging town of Forks and our next base, Port Angeles, lies the seductive Sol Duc Valley. Here, we started the day at the sumptuous hot springs resort. Is there anything more pleasurable than soaking in heavenly pools fed by natural mineral springs in a blissful setting of cliff walls and forests?
When our hour was up (Covid limitations) and we switched from swimsuits to hiking clothes it took some effort to summon the energy for a hike. Luckily the ascent was gentle and the reward - a trio of thundering waterfalls - most satisfying.
 |
Crescent Lake
|
By the time we arrived at Crescent Lake - after the hotsprings, waterfalls hike, and picnic lunch which included big slices of Marionberry pie - we were ready for a siesta. We set up our outdoor folding chairs in the shade near the shore and read and napped through the afternoon.
 |
Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park
|
Port Angeles, a short drive from Lake Crescent, is sandwiched between the San Juan Strait and a jaw-dropping mountain range. Despite its picturesque location we found the town center surprisingly dull, except for the part near the ferry terminal where a cluster of hip restaurants provided lively atmosphere. Even the paved promenade along the waterfront was ghostly.
As a base to the mountains of the Olympic National Park, Port Angeles was perfect. The Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center was just a short drive out of town. Surely the most spectacular setting of any visitor center? It was the view of Mount Olympus, the highest peak, that drew gasps from everyone around us. At the same time, when I turned my gaze to the patches of snow capping the ridge my heart sank at the stark reminder of climate change. A decade ago, even in midsummer, Hurricane Ridge would've been significantly whiter.
The steep, mostly paved trail that wound up to a summit was full of foot traffic. With travel options so limited, the national parks drew droves of domestic visitors this summer. Somewhere along the trail my phone beeped with a message welcoming me to Canada! Indeed, when we reached the top we could see Vancouver Island in the distance. The view of Port Angeles was breathtaking, but it was the saw-toothed mountain ridge, sharply clear, that commanded my gaze for a good long while. When we returned to the visitor's center I was eager for more. We checked out the shorter trails that went up in different directions and the views were equally arresting. On the drive back to town in the middle of the afternoon I was amazed to see thick clouds racing across the valley and I realized how lucky we had been.
At dinner time we were ready for a high carb feast. Barhop Brewing near the ferry terminal provided a satisfying trifecta of flavorful IPA, "artisan" pizza and lively atmosphere on a terrace with a waterfront view.
After an unforgettable week at the Olympic National Park we headed further north to Puget Sound.
 |
| Cornish Pasties, Port Townsend, WA |
During our 2 full days in atmospheric Port Townsend we entertained thoughts of retiring here. Who could blame us? Its geography (on a sound) plus its attractive colonial style architecture bestow an immediate "wow" factor. We stayed at The Water Street Hotel which is in a historic building, placing us in the heart of the action. After breakfast each morning we strolled past the harbor, hopped down to the beach - the tide was low each time - and sauntered toward the Point Wilson Lighthouse. Blue sky, the hum of locals and visitors engaged in beach and park activities, sea birds circling and swooping, the wet sand soft and nurturing. We were infatuated.
The variety of upmarket restaurants strengthened our impressions. Where else in America can you find "made from scratch" vegetarian Cornish pasties stuffed with vindaloo curry? Small parks with picnic tables all over town ensured blissful settings at meal times. (Due to growing Covid numbers we opted for take-out over dining at restaurants.)
On the day we were leaving town we popped into the food co-op for meal supplies. Three nights in a cabin with a kitchen at Mount Rainier's southern entrance awaited. We were excited about home prepared meals for the first time in weeks. And when we found a heartening variety of high quality seasonal produce as well as an incredibly well-stocked deli at the co-op our affection for Port Townsend deepened. We left town wondering whether we'd return as new residents or never see it again.
We headed south. The start of our journey back to California. We crossed attractive bridges into and out of Bainbridge Island as we made our way west to the range of mountains called the Cascades.
 |
Mount Rainier
|
Drizzle and cloud cover on our two days at Mount Rainier National Park did not deprive us of exhilarating hikes. On our first full day at the park, since the mountain we were here to see was well hidden in dense cloud, we settled for a forest hike that involved a long, steady climb on a trail cushioned by mulch. At the viewpoint from where Mount Rainier would be visible on a clear day, we munched a sandwich and stared into the mist. The temperature for me was ideal for hiking. In the afternoon, still full of steam, we hopped onto an easy stretch of the mostly strenuous Wonderland Trail. This 93 mile long trail encircles the mountain, and we were on a level bit near Cougar Rock Campground alongside a gushing river churning white water.
On our second day at the park we hiked the super popular Skyline Loop Trail from Paradise Valley for the best chance to see the king of the Cascades. The weather looked promising with less cloud cover than the previous day. An early arrival granted us a prime parking spot in a lot that was rapidly filling up with Seattle day-trippers on this August Sunday. We started our ascent on a quiet stretch through meadows brightened by wild flowers and reached Myrtle Falls. We paused here for a few minutes to absorb the beauty of the waterfall, then continued on the ascent, still puzzled at how few people we encountered. The final bit required some rock scrambling (to my dismay), but once at the summit I was dumbstruck. A shimmering white mound towered above me. I gazed at the glacier clad contours, transfixed. This moment, I knew, would be the climax of the month long road trip.When I finally became aware of the world again I was amazed to see that we were far from alone. How did all these people get there? Turned out we were doing the loop in the opposite direction. Had we done it the traditional way, the climb would have been considerably steeper - up endless steps - but Mt. Rainier would've been in our view much of the time (depending on cloud cover). Doing it in reverse made the downhill section absurdly easy, but we encountered hordes of visitors. On the drive out of the park we wondered if Seattle's proximity to this park placed it above Port Townsend as a retirement home.
 |
Columbia River Gorge
|
The route we selected for the drive south from Mt Rainier was supposed to provide close up views of Mt St. Helens and Mt Adams. But the weather that Monday morning did not co-operate. We drove in cloud, drizzle and mist, a guarantee of poor visibility much of the time. To make matters worse, as we approached a pass the paved road ended and we entered a rough, bumpy stretch. How did this happen? We'd done our research and the road had looked smooth and paved on Google maps the night before! Immense relief washed over us when the road widened into a normal two lane highway again near the Columbia River!
This mighty river originates in the Canadian Rockies and on its journey to the Pacific Ocean is fed by numerous rivers. At the point where we crossed into Oregon, the Columbia River cut through a gorge in the Cascades. We intended to camp in this geologically intriguing region, but changed our plans when we saw the charmless campground at Viento State Park near busy Highway 84. We opted for a room at a pleasant motel in lively Hood River, a town which occupies arguably the best location in Oregon.
 |
Multnomah Falls - one of the tallest in the nation
|
Undoubtedly, the highlight of the Columbia River Gorge is the tall, multi-tiered Multnomah Falls. When we'd arrived at the entrance, via the historic byway, we were told we needed a ticket that had to be purchased in advance online. Due to Covid this was a way to limit numbers. After fiddling around with the online procedure on our phones without success, we were eventually let in and immediately stepped onto the steep trail to the top of the falls. Invigorating and rewarding, we relished every moment.
Back on the byway, an engineering marvel along a cliff wall, we made stops at the other waterfalls in the area. Each endowed with its own charm and compelled hikes to viewpoints. Past the waterfalls the road arcs and ascends up to Crown Point. From this spot we gazed at the bird's eye view of vertical cliff walls and wide, wide river visible for many miles. A heart stopping panorama that can only be fully appreciated in real life.
 |
Mount Hood from Mirror Lake
|
Before leaving Hood River on a cloudless Tuesday morning we caught a great view of Mount Adams from the motel parking lot, and in the cute downtown, we acquired delicious bagels from a bustling bakery. These unexpected parting gifts left quite an impression. The town of Hood River sure had a lot going for it. Minutes after heading south on scenic Highway 35, Mount Hood came into full view. A symmetric partially snowcapped dome proudly displayed above an agricultural plain. We drove through farmland, stopped at one of the many farm stands, bought a huge bag of freshly harvested pears (which didn't make it to California due to border regulations), and continued onward to a trailhead for our first hike of the day.
Though not as ostentatious as Mt. Rainier, Mount Hood is more accessible, with numerous hiking trails at its base. My favorite was the trail to and around Mirror Lake for its ideal combination of forest, gentle ascent, scenery and views. A night at Cooper Spur Lodge provided luxury, which included an evening hot tub soak under the stars. On a future visit we may spend a night at the Timberline Lodge for even more luxury in a historic wooden building right up the mountain. The Pacific Crest Trail goes past this lodge and we hiked a small part of it just so we could brag about it.
Heading south to the central Cascades we encountered smoke from wildfires for the first time on this trip. The mountain peaks we hoped to have views of during the drive were completely invisible. East of the Cascades we entered high desert landscape. Now we were immersed in browns and tans, descending and ascending steep canyons until we arrived at a heavily irrigated agricultural plain.
We stayed at an Airbnb just outside the town of Sisters, Oregon. Though the fires were a fair distance from us the sky was hazy and poor air quality lingered for two days. Luckily on our last full day in the area we woke up to a bright blue sky. We finally could see the iconic Three Sisters, a trio of volcanic cones, from our window. From the road near our Airbnb we could see Three Fingered Jack, Black Butte and Mount Washington.
The highlight for us in the Sisters area was a hike around Suttle Lake, a clear blue lake that arose from glacial run-off. The combination of sun, perfect air temperature, pine scents and natural beauty gave us a high, and craving more, we extended our walk through a wooded trail along a creek.
 |
Suttle Lake, Sisters, OR
|
 |
Blu Pool on the Tamolich Trail in the Central Cascades
|
From Sisters we drove east to Eugene over a pass to the western side of the Cascades. Between the two cities we stopped for one last big wilderness hike. On the Tamolich Trail we arrived at a truly arresting sight, a pool the color of sapphire. It was still early on a Sunday morning. In a few hours this spot would be crowded. Continuing beyond Blu Pool, we hiked beside the McKenzie River, into a delightful forest infused with earthy scents. The trail was mostly level and pretty quiet. Our road trip was coming to an end. Next on the itinerary was a city stint.
 |
| It isn't Nature! |
Our LA friends welcomed us to their new home in Eugene in style. During our short stay with them they showed us their favorite walks and yet another city began to seduce us. At the end of each day, over Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and a variety of blue cheeses we chatted, laughed, complained, grouched, smiled. The past 18 months had been tough in a number of ways. But the worst was over and we had plenty to smile about.
