To San Sebastian for Milestone Birthday

The Basque Coast (8/ 31 - 9/13 2022)

Eight intense weeks on the Côte d'Azur came to an end. With the Mediterranean Sea in the rear view mirror we headed west. Two relaxing nights at the home of friends in the Luberon, then a night in Carcassonne, followed by the final French destination, Biarritz where we returned our rental car. It was the start of the Basque chapter of our summer travels.

Biarritz - Rocher de la Vierge

We were now a group of 5, spending 2 nights on a golf estate in Bidart, a small community bordering Biarritz. From our apartment, it was an easy trek to the beach, especially as the weather was pleasantly cool. On the morning of our only full day in the area we ambled on the soft sand, marveling at the  picturesque headlands. On and on we strolled. Peak summer season was over. A tranquil, leisurely atmosphere enveloped us. 

The view of the Rocher de la Vierge as we approached Biarritz was breathtaking. At the headland we followed the chain of tourists across the narrow bridge to the tiny island. A Virgin Mary statue perched on the highest point drew our attention briefly. Then we focused our cameras on the sublime views of the Bay of Biscay and shapely coastline. 

After hours of fresh air and exercise we had worked up an appetite. From the numerous trendy eating places in the old town, we chose one that featured an international menu. Seated at a table on the terrace facing the pedestrianized lanes of the heart of the old town, we soaked up the vibrancy of this sophisticated city on the Basque Coast. What a pity we'd be leaving the next morning! 

But our next destination was San Sebastian, a city that promised a good time for a long list of reasons.

Panorama of San Sebastian showing beach across the street from our apartment

San Sebastian is one of those cities that makes a stupendous first impression. Then, it goes on to impress in the days that follow. When I first decided to celebrate my 60th birthday in Europe I wanted a place by a beautiful beach. I wanted to be able to awaken to the sights and sounds of the sea and to be able to easily hop on the beach first thing in the morning. But it also had to be a city with other unique and appealing features so that whoever came out to celebrate with me would be guaranteed a fulfilling time.

Pintxos in the Old Town on our first night in San Sebastian

In this city of Michelin starred restaurants and lively pintxo bars (Basque for tapas), much of our entertainment centered around food. On our first evening in town we ambled along the waterfront toward the old town (Parte Vieja). 

Before we knew it, we found ourselves on a trail up Monte Urgull. We stopped  halfway up to marvel at the panorama of the city bordered by the Bay of Biscay and a beautiful, green mountain range. Then we skipped down to the port and into the old town. It was close to 8:00 PM and the pintxo bars were filling up. Luckily we were able to nab a table at an atmospheric bar with a decent selection of regional pintxos. We were now a group of 8. Pam and Indrasen arrived from Lisbon and Linda from Amsterdam that afternoon. A jug of Sangria and a bottle of Spanish red wine, more alcohol than our group could handle, fueled a mood of celebration. 

View on morning walk to the eastern end of the shore

Our vacation apartment was located in an upmarket neighborhood called Gros. Each morning before breakfast I started the day with a brisk walk on the coastal promenade. The Zurriola Beach was across the street from our building. It was a small, crescent shaped beach, wide with fine sand, and popular with surfers who were already in the water at sunrise. The temperature early in the day was always divine and heading east I was almost always in shade. At the end of the coastal path I'd gaze at the view. The concert hall, a modern, sleek building stood out. I loved that this architectural gem pointed to a city rich in culture in addition to its natural beauty. My eyes would inevitably stray to conical Monte Urgull at the end of the crescent, bathed in early morning light. The statue of a Catholic icon visible at the top. 

Chefs Pam and Linda at the Gros apartment, San Sebastian

The apartment in San Sebastian was equipped with a dream kitchen. Eager volunteers in our group efficiently produced tasty creations. Grocery stores, markets and little food stores were within an easy walk from us.

Creative but simple meals

Preparing meals together gave us an excuse to get caught up on our lives. It seemed like we were all going through big upheavals and changes. Through cooking, eating and sipping cocktails our English relatives and Australian relatives bonded.

My siblings, cousin, husband, nephew and in-laws enjoying a meal together at our San Sebastian apartment

Cooper siblings reading and relaxing over tea at the San Sebastian apartment

California friends sing Happy birthday outside San Sebastian apartment

I was touched that friends and family made the effort to fly over to Europe to be with me on my birthday. A total of 15 people came to San Sebastian. Gil from London and Linda from Amsterdam spent 5 days with us but had to leave before my actual birthday. Premi and Sri from Santa Barbara and Rayann and Marlene from Los Angeles found a vacation apartment around the corner from ours. On my birthday morning, on their way to the beach, they sang "Happy birthday" from the street while I looked down from the third floor.

The females in our group pose for a photo

The best feature of our apartment was the panoramic sea view from the living room. There were 2 bedrooms with sea views as well. The open plan living area enabled us to comfortably relax and enjoy the views. 

Decorations in the living room and appetizers set out

We partied on the night before my actual birthday. At 7:00 that evening the hardworking "crew" had prepared the living room and dining room area with party decorations and "pintxos". They went all out to make it a success even though they hit a huge snag that morning. It was a public holiday and all the big grocery stores were closed. They had to hunt all over for little shops that were open. Amazingly, they pulled it off!

My grand entry at the start of the party

I had to borrow clothes from my sister, Pam, for the party. When I had left California back in April in the midst of much chaos I had no time to think about clothes for special occasions. Surely, in the four months away I'd happen upon suitable birthday party attire at one of the many cities on my itinerary? No such luck.

Everyone in party clothes, sipping drinks and enjoying the view

I was disappointed that the apartment didn't have a terrace with sea view for dining. Luckily it was so spacious that all 13 of us could easily mill about or sit in clusters on that evening of celebrations.

One of many birthday party group photos

Everyone was so elegantly dressed and so full of party energy. I felt really special to be with these caring folks.

An international group - California, UK, Australia, Germany

It was the first time that this group of people were gathered together - in the same country, city, room. We wanted to capture this unusual moment. Someone had the bright idea to use their phone to take a group selfie. And what a result!

Me sipping a gin and tonic and watching the chefs prepare the main meal

There was never any question that the quality of the meal was going to be stellar despite the battle to obtain ingredients on a public holiday. These ladies grew up in South Africa and learned the art of flavorful cuisine from their female elders.

Daryl and the Ladies

It was clear that everyone was having a blast at the party. Admittedly, I experienced anxiety in the preceding days. It was important to me that the effort made by everyone was worth it. It felt weird being the center of attention. I didn't like it.

Dinner is about to appear

We're dancing - or rather making movements that the others find hilarious!

Dancing was mandatory. Indrasen had worked hard on creating a suitable playlist.

Rayann knows how to dance and loves it.

Thank goodness I'm utterly comfortable with these folks and my ineptitude didn't embarrass me!

Marlene, tall and lithe, is an expert on the dance floor

Can't deny having skilled dancers at a party definitely provided the right vibe.

Premi loves parties, especially when there's music and dancing.

Music and merriment. I felt very lucky.

Posing with Julia, Indrasen and Marlene

Good Spanish wine and gin and tonics made with a special craft gin brought from South Africa added to the mood.

Desserts - Round 1

We took a break from dancing to sample exquisite cakes from a local bakery. San Sebastian has an astonishing number of fine bakeries. This is not the town to visit if you're on a diet!

Slideshow surprise

Daryl recruited Pam's help and compiled photos of me from childhood to present. He curated them and created a slideshow with Nora Jone's Come Away With Me as the soundtrack. After the energetic dancing everyone was happy for the excuse to sit down and watch the show. Afterwards they took turns to roast me.

Two birthday cakes - The iconic Basque Cheesecake and a dark chocolate mousse cake

At midnight we cracked open the champagne as the cakes appeared on the table. It was officially my birthday. Everyone was ready for the local specialty - Basque Cheesecake - after all the dancing that went on earlier.

Sipping champagne and watching me blow the candle shaped into the number 60

More dancing followed. Then, around 1:00 AM, the party came to an end.

I slept well, the anxiety leading up to this evening finally behind me. Daryl and I awoke early the next morning and headed out for a walk before coffee.

Birthday morning hike up to the top of Mont Urgull

We headed straight for Mont Urgull. We'd been in the city almost a full week and I still hadn't made it all the way to the top. There was never any time.

As we hiked up the slope the sights below us were now familiar. A week of ambling up and down this Basque city's streets and lanes, I felt a deep fondness for the area. The combination of natural beauty, urban sophistication, culture, and gastronomy made San Sebastian the ideal destination for a celebration.

View from Monte Urgull.

It was a fantastic start to the day. I spent much of the rest of the day in the apartment catching up with everyone. We decided to cook a big dinner which featured Premi's lamb curry, South African style. I suggested an early dinner in order to  have enough daylight time to take the funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo.

This was the mountain at the far side of town. Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo form the ends of a crescent shaped bay. The main beaches, often crowded, lie between them. We reached the funicular too late and didn't get to see the much touted panoramic view from the top. We did catch a glorious sunset though.

One last group photo

It was our last evening together in San Sebastian. The next morning we were all going our separate ways. 

I am so aware of how lucky I am for all that I have as I embrace being 60.

French Riviera - Climax and Conclusion

The Riviera Dream

(August 2022)

 

Villa Lemora. A fitting name for our new abode. Our beloved Goleta home on Via Lemora brought us immeasurable joy. And selling it enabled the purchase of our dream house on the French Riviera in the chic village of Mougins.

New Home in Mougins

We are still in shock at accomplishing the impossible: finding a house that suits us both after only 5 weeks on the French Riviera! 

How were we going to satisfy Ermila’s desire for close proximity to coastal city sophistication and Daryl’s requirement of a semi-rural setting where nature sights and sounds dominated? Obviously we both had to make compromises and meet each other part of the way. Back in June when we gave serious consideration to living in the Menton area during our first days on the Riviera we toyed with a two home scenario to enable us both to realize our dreams. How about a luxury apartment in Roquebrune Cap Martin beside the water, plus a character laden country house within an easy drive away so that we could divide our time evenly between the two homes? At first the idea energized us, then, as we continued our exploration, it felt increasingly daunting. 

 

During our time in Théoule Sur Mer in June (after 10 days in Menton) we drove and walked up and down the streets of Mougins/Valbonne/Mouans Sartoux area. (I explained in the previous blog post why we rejected the Théoule area.) We spoke to agents and visited properties. A villa in the countryside three miles outside of Valbonne checked all of Daryl’s boxes and many of mine. How could I not love the combination of rustic charm and immaculate stylish interior? Gorgeously landscaped with a resort like pool area we could both picture ourselves blissfully engaged in our favorite activities. The neighborhood of elegant villas set in park like gardens pointed to a wealthy enclave. We could put up with that. Since the trio of neighboring villages – Mougins, Valbonne and Mouans Sartoux – were a short drive from the house, I was satisfied with access to trains and buses. Cannes would be the closest urban center to us, which was perfectly acceptable. 

Cannes - Sophisticated, but delightfully small

We left for a month long visit to the UK soon after viewing the villa (which we referred to as House 3 since it was 3rd house shown to us by an agent in the Mougins area), and this saved us from an impulsive decision. The house had been on the market for over a year so we didn’t feel any pressure to make an immediate decision.

 

In July, traveling around the UK, we were sufficiently distracted by family and friends. It helped clear our minds and reflect on what we’d learned up to that point. But "House 3" lingered in our thoughts. We were sure it was right for us. We wondered if such a perfect place was an opportunity not to be missed, or, if we stuck to our goal of waiting until next summer to buy, would similar options be available? We studied the photographs on the website where the villa we referred to as "House 3" was advertised. We read the enthusiastic reviews left by people who had stayed there on vacation. The Swedish owners only stayed in it for short periods. The rest of the time it was used as a vacation rental.

Main building of "House 3"

Through online research we learned that "House 3" had actually been on the market for close to two years, not just one year as we had been led to believe by the agent. Daryl was concerned about that. Why was it so hard to sell such a stunning place? The agent’s explanation was that it wasn’t a traditional house - 4 bedrooms spread out in 3 separate buildings – and therefore, not suitable for young families. For us the set up would be perfect. Visitors could stay as long as they wanted and would have sufficient privacy. Our concern was that if we bought the villa and then had to sell due to some unforeseen circumstance we may be faced with the same challenge as the current owners.

When we returned to the Côte d’Azur at the end of July we spent a night in St. Paul de Vence at a bed and breakfast a mile outside the old village. The alluring medieval center (packed with tourists), attractive landscape, and sophisticated shopping and dining places appealed to us immensely. From the poolside of our B&B we soaked up panoramic valley views. Could we live here?

View of St. Paul de Vence village from poolside of Bed and Breakfast

But the landscape was open, not wooded like the Mougins area. For me, the dealbreaker was the absence of public transportation. “You can take ‘Uber’ to the airport,” the owner cheerfully suggested when I expressed this concern.

 

We had planned out and booked all our accommodation in the spring before selling our house in California. In choosing 8 different locations in which to base ourselves we hoped to familiarize ourselves with the entire French Riviera before pinpointing where exactly we’d want to settle down. We hadn’t expected to rule out the Théoule area early in our search and unfortunately had booked an additional week five miles to the west, in the beach community of Le Trayas – Miramar to be precise.

 

Our vacation apartment was in a huge beachside condominium complex spread across multiple terraced levels. 

Spent a week in this apartment complex in Le Trayas

The beaches, port and restaurants were a short, but steep hop down from our apartment. The area’s geography was similar to Théoule Sur Mer. Upmarket villas on sloped terrain provided residents with panoramic sea views. Who could blame us for adding it to our list of places to check out?

It was the peak of summer. Blistering hot days and hordes of tourists. Late in the day the sun disappeared behind the mountains and the beach closest to us was in shade. That was when we slipped into bathing suits, hopped down to the soft sand and cooled off in the delicious water. So calm and warm. The views from the water of deep orange rugged cliff face simply mesmerizing. What a perfect place for a beach vacation. What an imperfect location for our dream house!

Beach near Miramar

Le Trayas wasn’t even a real town. No bakeries, no grocery stores. It did have decent restaurants specializing in seafood, and good bus connections to neighboring cities, east and west. We mostly dined on our apartment terrace from where we had magnificent views of the Mediterranean Sea. 

Once, on the recommendation of a friend, we skipped up the coast road to a bustling restaurant away from the beach but with a welcoming patio full of lovely plants.

Superb pizza at Le Patio, Miramar

If we weren’t so anxious about researching houses this would have been the week to switch into vacation mode.

 

Almost every day that first week of August we made the half hour drive into the Mougins/Valbonne/Mouans Sartoux area because it was becoming quite obvious that this was where we most likely would find a suitable house. Daryl had come across a Mougins property for sale that intrigued him. We nicknamed it House 4. He sleuthed out the street on which it was located. We drove there one morning and checked out the neighborhood. From the street there were access points into the Valmasque Park, an enormous protected forested green space stretching from Mougins to Valbonne. Also, there was a bus stop on the street with connections to the neighboring town of Le Cannet as well as into the village center of Mougins. Reasons for seriously considering this house mounted. Daryl became increasingly convinced that this was it. One sweltering morning he drove out to the neighborhood, parked and hiked through the forest to a classy bakery where he enjoyed a delicious lunch. More data points to boost his enthusiasm. The house was listed at half the price of "House3" so we were aware that it would need a lot of fixing up. Not a deal breaker. In fact, Daryl welcomed this opportunity to tailor a place to suit us. I absolutely understand the benefits of a fixer upper. But I wasn't excited about the accompanying headaches, especially in France where we don't even speak the language!

 

Daryl contacted the owner who lived in the UK. House 4, we learned, was mainly a vacation rental. The owner was also quite clear that it was in desperate need of updating. I immediately ruled it out mentally, but, because of Daryl’s enthusiasm, agreed to take a look at it. "You can change everything about a house but its location!" Daryl reminded me.

 

We were granted only a ten minute slot of time to view the place so as not to disturb the family staying there that week. Though my expectations were low I was surprised at the complete absence of charm. Even the garden, despite the many trees, was far from attractive. The pool was way too big and too deep. This property was never a home. It was a place to generate income and it showed. Daryl was deeply disappointed. Then again, there was no need to rush our timeline. This exercise helped us refine our search criteria.

 

Valbonne, at this point, became our favorite of the trio of villages. Unlike the glitz of Mougins, Valbonne's medieval center has a more authentic charm. Also, it's off the tourist radar. More importantly, the landscape around Valbonne is greener and more wooded than Mougins. Public transportation connections to nearby urban centers are excellent. It also became apparent we'd get better value for money compared to Mougins. Mouans Sartoux had a train station in addition to a vibrant center, and was a serious contender too.

 

Our goal for this summer was to figure out where exactly we wanted to live on the Riviera. We accomplished that goal in five weeks. We were booked to spend Week 6 in Mougins. We decided to use our time to view properties in our price range in preparation of the next step. Unless we came upon our dream home, we resolved to start serious house hunting next summer. We would need to find a trustworthy agent and that was going to involve intensive research before next summer.

 

After resigning himself to giving up on House 4, Daryl came across on one of the websites he habitually visited, a house in Valbonne that fit our criteria. He contacted the listing agent (Maria) to request a viewing. The agent replied that the house was no longer available but invited Daryl to send her a description of what we were looking for. In his reply we widened our criteria to include the neighboring villages of Biot and Vallauris. We’d visited the medieval centers of both towns and liked what we saw. About two hours after Daryl's response Maria sent us about a dozen properties. We were amazed at her ability to distill out suitable places for us.

 

We selected 6 from Maria's list and requested to view them. Our Mougins week, in contrast to the week in La Trayas, was structured around scheduled viewings. First we looked at a modestly priced house in the village of Vallauris that we arranged through some other agent. Driving to the house convinced us that Vallauris wouldn’t work for us. Busy (practically a suburb of Antibes), steep  roads, not enough green. The house itself was filthy and neglected, but redeemable with effort, time and money. We gained useful information.

 

The next day we met Maria for the first time in person. It was Tuesday, August 9. Our first viewing with her was of a villa in Valbonne. In France, the actual address of a property for sale is never publicized. When a viewing is scheduled the agent arranges to meet you at a nearby place and then you follow him/her to the property. Another odd thing is that there is no Zillow equivalent or a common database of all properties for sale. A seller lists their property with specific agents. And these agents control who to release the listing to. They may advertise a listing on their website or they may not. There are a few websites that aggregate listings from several agencies, but again, these would represent only a subset of inventories. This makes the business of tracking down the most suitable property quite a challenge.

 

The house in Valbonne that Maria showed us had plenty of Provençal appeal, very elegant, with high end finishes and was obviously well cared for. The owners, an older woman and a middle aged woman (mother and daughter perhaps) were at home and eager to answer our questions. The pool and garden were beautiful too. An attractive screen of mature oak trees bordered the road. Two other huge pluses were that the Valmasque Forest could be accessed within minutes on foot and the town center was a 15 minute walk away. But there were 2 unresolvable issues. The house was on a busy road – one of the main arteries leading to the center – and it was set back from the road leaving a very narrow back garden section.

 

The second house that Maria showed us was in Biot. The exposed setting didn’t work for us. Also, the stylish contemporary interior didn’t match our taste. But both houses came close to what we were looking for. We felt encouraged and incredibly lucky to have found such a diligent agent. It didn’t take long to establish warm rapport with her and be assured that we could trust her. We’d heard horror stories about real estate agents on the Riviera. The general advice is, “Trust no one.” Maria was bilingual too – she grew up in the UK and spent 30 years in the South of France. We described more explicitly what we were looking for and that we were specifically interested in Valbonne. We made it clear that we were in no hurry. We had more than a year to wait for the right house to appear. Having landed on an agent we could trust, we had no doubt our momentous goal for next summer would be completely achievable.

 

It was our wedding anniversary. We drove out to Mouans Sartoux for a dinner celebration. The evening was perfect and the village center full of summer atmosphere. Locals were playing boules, outdoor bars were full, children giggled and ran around on the central square, a line was forming in front of the old fort for an outdoor concert and diners were filling up the nice assortment of restaurants scattered around the center. 

 

Sculpture in garden of Chateaux in Mouans Sartoux

We chose Lebanese, a switch from pasta and pizza. Over exquisite hot and cold mezzes in a satisfying setting we debated House 4. Daryl, for some reason, revisited the idea of taking on fixing up this terribly neglected property. I countered with returning to the two home scenario. For the same price as House 4 I could get a luxury apartment in Roquebrune Cap Martin, with sea views and a location near a train station. We weighed the pros and cons of this idea. It created tension. We reminded each other of our timeline to buy.

 

But planning to buy next summer brought up anxiety. Would the perfect house be waiting for us during that 3 month period? If not, would we be fine to shrug off our bad luck and decide to wait until after retirement? I believed I could handle a limbo period, but could Daryl? Ever since we made the decision to move to France he had been spending inordinate amounts of time studying real estate websites. It interfered with his math research. Not having a home of our own makes us uncomfortable, unanchored, unsettled. We didn’t expect to feel this way.

 

Maria, the agent we were so incredibly lucky to find, scheduled two more viewings for the next day, Wednesday, August 10. These properties were in Mougins, which at this stage we were getting to know pretty well. Though it’s a “village”, the residential areas which surround the glitzy medieval center are pretty built up with a suburban vibe. An affordable house in the type of setting we desired would be tricky to find in Mougins. We didn’t expect to actually like either of the places, but we would surely gather more valuable information. And Maria would learn more about what we liked and what turned us off.

 

Boy, were we wrong! Within minutes of laying eyes on the first  (and only) house we viewed that Wednesday morning we were swept off our feet. The photos in the listing just didn’t capture the magic of the garden and house. My heart was racing as we took in the garden full of trees and shrubs. Daryl caught my eyes and mumbled his amazement. The impressively designed interior - open plan with big windows and lots of light – took my breath away. I loved that the house was roughly the same size as our Goleta home. Except that there was an enormous basement (windowless - great for laundry and storage) and a separate studio designated as a guest room. The garden was twice as large as our Goleta one, much of it wooded.

 

Maria could tell that we were seduced and offered to cancel the viewing we’d scheduled for that afternoon. Back in our Mougins vacation rental Daryl and I talked and talked and talked. Daryl's body language and actual language made it clear that his feelings about the house mirrored mine. The house was perfect for us. It was surrounded by forest. From everywhere in the garden and from all rooms in the house the views were of trees and green. Yet it was within walking distance of the commercial center and the medieval center. We could walk to Michelin starred restaurants. We could walk to a world class art museum. A grocery store, bakeries and cafes were an easy walk away. The bus stop for a bus to Cannes and Mouans Sartoux was a short walk away. Surely this was a unique opportunity?

 

Amusing Sculpture in a square in Mougins village

I couldn't sleep that night. I knew this was it! All night I imagined us living in various parts of the Riviera and what it would be like. Menton, Roquebrune Cap-Martin, Antibes. Though we loved much about those towns they were far too built up to satisfy our requirements. 

 

In the morning we sent Maria the message I'm sure she expected from us. We met with her to sign a written offer. Later that day, Thursday August 11, (remarkably, only two days after meeting Maria in person), she called us to say that the owner had accepted our offer!

 

We had two more weeks on the Riviera. Week 7 in Nice, up on Mont Boron, we were finally able to feel like we were on vacation. We actually did tourist stuff like scenic hikes on the coast path in Villefranche and St. Jeanne Cap Ferrat. A hike from our apartment to the tip of Mont Boron was also gratifying. 

Panoramic view of Nice from Mont Boron

We wandered the pedestrianized lanes of old town Nice, shopped at the Cours Saleya market, sipped rosé at atmospheric bars, dined at an Indian and a Lebanese restaurant and generally became a whole lot more familiar with the biggest city closest to what would soon be our new home. We walked a lot, mostly downhill from our apartment. On the return we avoided the tedious uphill climb by taking the tram or bus back.

 

Evenings spent at home were special too. Over home prepared meals on a spacious, tastefully furnished terrace, we were dazzled by a splendid panorama of Nice tucked between a shapely mountain range and the entrancing Mediterranean Sea. We caught several glorious mountain sunsets and watched the changing hues of sky and city until darkness fell and the city lights twinkled. The evening temperature, perpetually perfect, and it was always with great reluctance that I tore myself from the terrace to turn in.

 

Sunset view from our Nice terrace

During the heat of the day we kept cool in our air-conditioned apartment and used the time to study the complicated process of buying a house in France. First, a written offer is submitted to the seller. Next, the seller replies with a written acceptance. The next step involves a notaire. Maria, our agent, had set up a time for us to meet up with the notaire that she worked with. We would be signing a document called the Compromis de vente. To prepare for this we read up on the legal implications. The question of whether to include a tontine or not came up. We don’t have kids. If one of us dies will the other automatically inherit? We read up as much as we could so that when we sign papers on August 25 we’d be somewhat educated.

Our final Riviera destination was Antibes. There, we were joined by Glynis and Troy, and embraced tourist mode.  In the mornings we wandered into different parts of the city, absorbing the beauty and midsummer atmosphere. 

Antibes waterfront path

In the afternoons we hid from the fierce sun in the apartment. In the late afternoon we hoofed it to the beach and swam in the blissfully calm, warm sea. At the end of the day we  prepared superb summer meals, using acquisitions from the daily Provençal market. We dined out on the terrace, sipping chilled rosé, the air temperature finally enjoyable once the sun dropped closer to the horizon. 

Breakfast of crêpe filled with fresh blueberries and cream on apartment terrace in Antibes

It would all have been perfect had it not been for the mosquitoes. Troy and Glynis attracted them in a crazy way, while Daryl and I were pretty unaffected. 

Overall though, our Antibes week felt like a tidy ending to a unique summer with a reasonable amount of tension. The climax, landing on our dream house in Mougins, was unexpected and incredible. Nice provided a welcome setting for the dénouement. It was there that the shock of the huge commitment we had just made sunk in on our daily long walks from our Mont Boron apartment. Our courage astonished us. We wrestled with misgivings. Were we crazy to give up our California home?

 

This was our home for 22 years

So many things that we would undoubtedly long for on Via Lemora. The views from every window. The mountains. The garden and how it changed through the seasons. The comforts. The neighborhood.

But Villa Lemora already began to occupy our minds. No doubt our new home will bring us much joy during our years in the South of France.

  

French Riviera - Next Destination: Théoule Sur Mer

June 15 - 25, 2022 

On June 15 we drove west to a new base near Cannes. 

An exclusive town by the water

The village of Théoule Sur Mer sits on the Bay of Cannes and is sandwiched between the Massif de l’Esterel and the Mediterranean Sea. Here, the mountains come right down to the sea. Shapely volcanic rock formations, bright orange in color, jut out along the coast and small beaches hide in-between. Because much of the forested mountain slopes are protected within national parks, there are hiking trails accessed right from town. 

Stunning coast with shapely rocks

Along the paved coastal trail there are upmarket restaurants and cafes. There’s a little port at one end and at the other end there are trailheads leading into the forest. At night, across the bay, the bright lights of Cannes remind you that the city is a quick train ride away. Théoule is truly picturesque and refreshingly laid-back.

 

Théoule first entered our awareness in the winter when the idea of moving to France began to solidify. Daryl became entranced by a house that he was sure was his dream house. It was an old stone house, with plenty of countryside charm and appeared secluded despite its location within the village. A forested natural park was just across the street. This house, the “cemetery” house (it was near a cemetery), checked many of my boxes too. The town center was within walking distance, as were the beaches and the train station. It had been on the market for a year, priced a million dollars. 

 

A house at that price point in this exclusive town raised questions. How ‘rustic’ was it? Would it need extensive work and renovation? What would the upkeep be like? We’d expected to find out the answers to all these questions in the summer. But, as fate would have it, the house sold in the spring and that was that. However, Théoule Sur Mer was firmly on our list of potential locations for our new home.

View of Massif de l'Esterel from Théoule

 The town’s abundance of natural beauty had an immediate impact on us when we arrived on a pleasant summer afternoon. For Daryl it felt weird to see in real life the streets and coastline and landmarks – natural and human built – that he’d encountered on his numerous virtual visits. As we ambled along the coastal path we were immersed in an atmosphere of elegance. Works of sculpture and inviting benches along the way compelled stops to enjoy the views of remarkable coastline and the sparkling bay. Cafes and restaurants arranged tables right on the sand, at the water’s edge, for that total sensory enjoyment. Surely we could live here!

 

We trekked up to the “cemetery house” on our second day in town. A private lane prevented a close look so we had to contend with glimpses. We saw enough to conclude that this house would not have worked after all! And it wasn’t a case of sour grapes. The plot dropped steeply which meant the garden wouldn’t have given us much joy. The village lies right in the Massif de l’Esteral which sweeps down to the sea. Most of the houses, way out of our price range, were situated either high up on ridges or built on terraced slopes. They were magnificent, surrounded by forest, and endowed with majestic views. This wealthy enclave could not work for us.

 

We drove west along the coast toward Frejus, where the mountains were more prominent with deep orange rock walls. The beaches were wider and sandier. This was the Var region where the climate and vegetation differed from the Alpes-Maritime. The infamous mistral turned me off, but also we’d be further away from an urban center offering cultural events. 

 

Once we accepted that Théoule had to be crossed off our list we started to consider towns a bit inland from Cannes and Nice. We drove to Mougins and wandered through the elegant old town full of art galleries and fine restaurants. Surrounding the town was a forested landscape. There wasn’t a train station, but bus connections looked good and Cannes and Antibes were a short distance away by car or bus. This town deserved serious consideration.

 

Daryl had the idea of looking at train stops on the Grasse to Nice train line and that alerted us to Mouans Sartoux, which was only a short distance from Mougins. On the drive there we were uplifted by the heavily wooded landscape and signs pointing to nature parks. We parked at a huge free parking lot between the train station and the old town of Mouans Sartoux, and then followed a tree lined path to the center. We were excited to find a lively and attractive center with an assortment of unpretentious, bustling restaurants and bakeries. Old stone buildings lent charm and cobbled lanes led into residential parts. We wandered over to the Old Fort, an interesting historic building set in a park studded with massive, mature trees. We saw posters advertising live outdoor summer concerts in the park. And we quickly concluded that this town was in play too.

 

On the drive back to Théoule we spotted a bustling food store not too far from Mougins. We pulled into the crowded parking lot. Inside the Grand Frais Market we gasped at the selection of produce and all manner of food items. The prices were even more surprising. Basil at €1 a bunch, a pack of about a dozen zucchini blossoms for €3, heirloom tomatoes half the price we pay in California. The dollar’s current strength was a factor, of course. When we saw the big selection of vegetarian products we could tell that we’d fit right in with the locals.

 

Fine meal of stuffed zucchini blossoms prepared after market visit

On a social media group I requested insights from American expats in the area. All the responses I received were enthusiastic. A real estate agent invited me to call her and she’d be happy to answer my questions with no strings attached. I took her up on the offer. From her I learned that the Mougins area was sophisticated, with lots of English speaking expats. High tech was big, largely concentrated in an area called Sophia Antipolis. She suggested another town in the area called Valbonne.

 

We explored Valbonne’s charming medieval center. We drove around the area to get a feel for the landscape and roads and traffic. We did online research. We learned that many of the residents worked at Sophia Antipolis which was close to this town. It was a year round town with residents from all over Europe and other parts of the world. English was commonly spoken here. There were international schools for kids in the area. We could imagine living here and being happy. Here, we’d be able to find a house with a garden on a level plot. 

 

I contacted the agent who had told us about Valbonne and asked about current listings in our price range. We arranged for her to show us two houses, both located closer to Mougins. Daryl pursued an online listing and we arranged to view that one, located in Valbonne, as well. House 1 in Mougins had many appealing features. The architecture, layout and views were stunning. The huge garden full of fruit trees was breathtaking too. But the house had too many structural issues and it felt way too big. 

House 2 was luxurious, but lacked rustic charm. The garden was small and the asking price was above our budget. House 3, the one in Valbonne, sent our hearts aflutter. It was a new iteration of an old stone villa comprised of 3 separate buildings. The place was perfect, with high end features and a stunning garden and pool area. It had been updated fairly recently and maintained in excellent condition. Did we just find our dream house? We would be a year ahead of schedule!

 

We were about to fly out to the UK where significant distractions would force us to delay any important decision making.