Halloween in Germany is Reformation Day, a public holiday in 5 states, including Berlin. So when I bounced off to the gym for my morning swim, the streets were empty. It felt like a week of 2 Sundays, except that later in the day a scattering of costumed kids livened up the area as they went around trick or treating. A very scaled down version of what we have in the US. Our quiet day at home was followed by an unforgettable evening at the splendid Konzerthaus Berlin on Gendarmenmarkt where we heard two heartwarming pieces by The Bonn Philharmonika.
Brahms Piano Concerto No. 1 is magical, and the pianist, Ekaterina Litvintseva, was a sensation. Equally outstanding was the second piece, Beethoven's Symphony No. 6. What a privilege to listen to these brilliant compositions in a sumptuous setting! Marble columns, classical paintings and gold engravings on the ceiling, sculptures of Greek characters lining the walls, white busts of famous composers, and the great big organ at the front. It's great that concerts here are modestly priced, making this space accessible to ordinary mortals.
Friday, November 3
Berlin, being the vegan capital of the world, has a number of fining dining exclusively vegan restaurants. At Kopps in the mitte we splurged on the 4 course menu with wine pairing. Everything about the experience was impressive. A welcoming interior, stellar service, meticulous presentation, and a nice assortment of wines.
This excellent chard soup, thickened with potato, was poured out of a teapot onto flavorful lentil balls. Our high expectations for the next courses were exceeded.
Isn't this an impressive display? All the vegetables on this plate exploded with flavor, the textures delightful, and varied.
This is the place to come to celebrate a special occasion.
Saturday, November 4
By Berlin standards the weather on Saturday was glorious. Blue sky, and an absence of a chill. The perfect opportunity to check out Wannsee. Just a 15 minute train ride and you're out of the city and in an almost resort type setting. We ambled through forest and along the shoreline of this enormous, attractive lake.
In the evening we discovered a delightful piano bar in Savignyplatz, one metro stop from us. The Van Gogh Piano Bar has reproductions of the eponymous artist's vibrant paintings on all the walls. Sipping Calvados and whiskey in this cosy candle lit space, we soaked up the heartwarming tunes played by a talented pianist. We loved hearing perennial favorites, many from famous movies.Sunday, November 5
Another cloudless morning had us bounding off to the Grunewald forest for an invigorating hike. Fresh, sweet air, the trees still sporting fall foliage, I can't imagine a better way to spend a Sunday morning. We followed a trail down to a dune, then a steady climb brought us to a lake. Amazing to feel in the midst of nature and yet so close to the city.
When the sky clouded up and started to release a steady drizzle in the afternoon we switched to indoor beauty, immersing ourselves in the Gemäldegalerie's rich collection of Old Masters. This substantial art museum boasts the largest collection of Rembrandts. It was interesting to learn that two paintings attributed to Rembrandt were found to be falsified! Room after room displayed significant works by great Dutch, Flemish, and Italian painters. Highlights for us were two paintings by Hieronymus Bosch, the extraordinary works of Pieter and Jan Breugel, the Rembrandts, and works by Frans Hals and Vermeer. Francesco Guardi's Venice scenes were a pleasing dessert after a heavy main course of Renaissance paintings.
Exiting the Gemäldegalerie at 4:15, darkness was descending, hastened by a light rain. We headed toward the lights of Potsdamer Platz, where the city's first Christmas Market had popped up. (Earlier in the day I noticed a giant metal snowman and metal Christmas trees in the center island of the Ku'udamm near our apartment).
In this bustling mini Alpine "village", I had my first Glühwein (mulled wine). Quite enjoyable with a warm fresh pretzel. I'm beginning to think winter may not be so bad after all!
1 comment:
It is so amazing that Berlin is turning out to be a colorful and cultured city. I had absorbed the idea that it was grey from beginning to end with looming government buildings on every block.
The food looks delicious and the setting is warm and cozy, which is very appealing right now because we are having winter storms very early this year.
The concert hall is lovely! I have been listening to the music you mention as I sit with my ipad. Keep writing about your travels . It takes me away from this cold dark place!
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