The French Riviera - First Stop: Menton

June 2022 

We are home hunting on the French Riviera. After taking the phenomenal step of selling our Goleta, CA home of 22 years in April we find ourselves in a sort of uneasy limbo. Before returning to the rental we scored in Goleta in September, we hope to have a good idea of where exactly in the South of France we’ll spend our retirement years. 

This summer we are basing ourselves in different Riviera towns over an 8 week period. Online research over the past six months has us favoring two towns we hadn’t visited on prior vacations in the Riviera. Menton, the easternmost city, on the Italian border, appealed to me the most due to its subtropical microclimate and the fact that it doesn’t draw hordes of tourists like Nice and Cannes do. Daryl has been quite enthusiastic about a small town west of Cannes called Théoule Sur Mer. He liked its striking natural beauty – shapely red cliffs and forested slopes – and easy access to a network of hiking trails into the forest. 

Daryl’s dream home is an old, rustic stone house on a big lot out in an area that feels semi-rural. Lots of trees, terraces for dining, preferably with fruit trees and flowering perennials. He wants to wake up to the sound of nature. He wants seclusion, but easy access to a vibrant town with a decent selection of restaurants, food markets and cultural entertainment. 

The home of my dreams is beside the water. From my door I can step onto a coastal path leading to a beach. Easy access to public transportation so that I’m not dependent on a car. Our car would be used for shopping errands, out of town excursions, and multi day road trips. I’m fine with either a traditional or contemporary style house, as long as it isn’t in need of serious renovation. If décor needs updating that’s okay. I want lots of light, big windows, glass sliding doors leading to terraces, an open plan kitchen, dining room and living room, and delightful views from most windows and doors. I want a garden, one that is easy to maintain. A quiet neighborhood is crucial and I’d like to be able to walk to parks and green spaces. A bakery, café, and market are ideally within walking distance, but a short, easy drive to these places would be acceptable. I want to be close to a train station and be able to easily access a cosmopolitan city, a safe one, where I can find diverse dining options as well as cultural events. 

Menton 

On June 6 we arrived at our vacation apartment close to 9:00 PM. Immediately struck by the town’s vertical geography arising from a location between dramatic mountains – the Alpes-Maritime - and the Mediterranean Sea. From where we parked the car we had to ascend a few flights of stairs to reach our accommodation, which was the bottom level of a three storey house perched on a cliff. From the many floor to ceiling windows of the apartment we had jaw-dropping views of the town, the contoured coastline all the way to Italy, undulating mountains and, of course, the serene Mediterranean Sea. Between us and the steeples of the old town’s historic monuments, I was surprised and jarred by a concrete forest of high rises. This was a much bigger town than we’d expected.

Stayed at a ground level apartment in this house located in Borrego neighborhood of Menton

Famished and weary that first night, we dumped our luggage in the apartment and descended those many stairs that zig-zagged down a terraced garden. A private lane dropped down to a busy road. Turning toward the sea we encountered a strip of lively restaurants with a very local, neighborhood vibe. We opted for pizza and a caprese salad on the buzzy terrace. The temperature was perfect. And so was the meal we were served, which came as a surprise. Upmarket quality at such a non-pretentious place! What an amazing first impression of Menton! 

Within 24 hours of arriving in Menton we both felt sure we could have years of joy in a home in this city. It felt noticeably different to other Riviera towns where we’d had vacations in the past. We found ourselves among regular folks going about their everyday lives. When we studied the windows of real estate offices we were dismayed to see predominantly apartments advertised and only a handful houses. As we trudged up and down the city’s streets in the days that followed, our initial positive impressions kept getting reinforced. We were seduced by the charming historic center, pedestrianized, with vibrant squares and beautiful old buildings painted in the bright warm colors typical of the region. Litterless streets, well dressed locals who smiled and greeted us, and a calmness in the air. We were impressed by the many public gardens too. Much of the vegetation made us feel right at home. Citrus trees stood out prominently in gardens and the streets. Jacaranda, in full bloom, seemed to thrive in this climate. Palm trees, bougainvillia, rosemary bushes, cypresses, olive trees, and fig trees grew all over town. Could this town work for us?

View from the lane where we were staying in Menton

Menton turned out to be a lot bigger than we expected. It offered a wide variety of restaurants, cultural entertainment including classical music, decent shopping and excellent food markets. But the negatives were unmissable. Charmless apartment blocks, crammed into the city really ruined the skyline. The beaches were rocky, except for the one closest to the port which was gritty. Most people used water shoes when they swam. When we waded into the sensational water we realized rocky beaches were okay and didn’t prevent enjoyment of a swim in the Med. The roads through town were steep, with sharp curves and often busy. Due to Menton’s location at the base of steep mountains there was only a narrow band of flatness along the coast. Houses were built on slopes, resulting in multiple levels, like layered cakes. Our vacation rental showed us exactly what we’d be dealing with. A terraced garden wouldn’t be easy to maintain. 

The views, though, oh god the views, especially from the upper level of the house … Wow!! We got to enjoy this experience over a Sunday evening apero. The owners, Ludovine and Russell, invited us over when we told them about our interest in settling in the area. They are a fascinating couple. She teaches English at a nearby secondary school and he, a former Zimbabwean, manages yachts for billionaires, having earned experience as a captain for many years. Their enthusiasm for the area was obvious. They love the authenticity of Menton and they liked Monaco and spoke in praise of the prince. They also loved popping over the border to buy produce from Ventimiglia, the nearest Italian town, and to eat at places like Pasta y Basta. But they acknowledged the difficulty of finding the type of house we’d like. They suggested looking for an apartment in an architecturally tasteful building set in a big garden.

View of Menton from the upper terrace of the house where we were staying

Maybe the villages just out of town would work better? We drove up into Castellar after coming across a villa for sale in the area. We encountered heavy traffic on narrow roads enroute to Boulevard Castellar. A quick but steep drive brought us to the sleepy medieval village. What an astonishing change in atmosphere! We strolled up and down the narrow cobbled lanes, but experienced no heart fluttering. The few “traditional” locals we encountered didn’t help. 

Inland, above the A8, the terrain is steeper. The villages of L’Escaréne and Lucéram lie in this rugged, scenic area. As we strolled into these villages we imagined what it would be like to live here, so close to Menton yet so different in character. Popular hiking trails into the mountains were accessed from up here on the mountain flank. Winter would be noticeably chillier than closer to the water. Daryl had singled out a house for sale in L’Escaréne which he found on one of the websites he obsessively scrutinizes. With the aid of Google Earth he was able to locate it. We walked up to the house as far as we could. He liked its appearance and the trees around it and the plot size. I knew the area couldn’t work for me.

One of many gardens in Menton City Center

Menton kept growing on us. So much to like about this town. Like food shopping, which was always a joyful experience. At the covered market, an attractive historic building in the Old Town, Italy’s proximity had a heavy influence. Here we found heirloom summer squashes, the creamiest fresh mozzarella made from buffalo milk, zucchini blossoms, mixed olives marinated in fragrant herbs, unusual tomatoes, fennel bulbs, ripe goat cheeses, and unpackaged fresh pasta. In the Borrego neighborhood where we were staying there were excellent bakeries and small produce markets. Despite this, many locals preferred shopping in Ventimiglia, which I found amusing and appealing. Imagine that! Nipping into Italy once a week to buy your fruit and vegetables!

Dining on the garden terrace of the Studio Apartment

Every restaurant meal in Menton turned out to be a success. A Lebanese restaurant on the waterfront served us a delicious vegetarian platter of hot and cold mezzes. The blend of flavors, textures and presentation pointed to an establishment that cared about quality. That might have explained why it was such a busy restaurant. Another satisfying meal we enjoyed was at the Menton Casino of all places. We took advantage of their 3 course vegetarian special, including a drink for €25 per person! Turned out to be the deal of the century. The restaurant terrace overlooked the Med and in that amazing setting, with the temperature just perfect, we were served apérol spritz, a starter of eggplant parmesan, ravioli and gnocchi for mains, and a tiramisu for dessert. Superbe! A full moon had risen as we sauntered back along the promenade to our apartment. We both were aware of how wonderful it was to be able to just step out your door and walk to such an experience. 

On our last night in Menton we returned to the pizzeria in Borrego that we’d gone to on our first night. We ordered the same meal and loved it just as much. Surely we’d be back as locals in the near future? Our home meals were delightful too, because of how easy it was to find the makings of a tasty home cooked meal. In early June white asparagus was still in season. Protein sources like white beans, chickpeas and lentils were conveniently available in jars, all cooked and ready to add to salads. We sampled a variety of wines from a wine store. The warm weather dictated Rosé, but we also tried out a full-bodied 2016 Bordeaux which took us 3 days to finish and tasted best on the third day. The view from the outside table of our vacation apartment was a panorama of the sea and coastline. We had all the ingredients for satisfying meals.

Coastal Path around Cap Martin

One of Menton’s delights is the paved coastal path that continues for miles and miles. Every day we walked a section of it. A few times we parked at the southernmost point of Cap Martin and walked toward Monaco. In the mornings much of the path was in shade. We always encountered a lot of joggers and dog walkers. The coast on the Monaco side was wilder, more breathtaking. I imagined starting each new day on this promenade, drinking in the beauty while keeping fit.

Cap Matrin

Menton is well connected by frequent trains and buses. Within town a free shuttle makes a loop around major destinations. Monaco is a quick train ride away and midway to Nice. Ventimiglia is a short train ride away and further on is San Remo, a small Italian resort town with decent restaurants. On the window of an Immobiliére we saw a house for sale in the Garavan neighborhood, an upmarket area. We drove up to the neighborhood which lies a couple miles above the town center. We parked and strolled up Garavan Boulevard. What breathtaking sea views! The houses were at street level and easily accessed, but the back gardens dropped steeply. A house here could work, but neither of us felt a rush of enthusiasm for the area. I was put off by the thought of either driving or hopping on a bus to get into the city center. 

After a few days it became obvious that if we really wanted to live in Menton we’d have to live in an apartment. It was the last thing we’d had in mind for our France retirement home. And then a radical thought hit us. What if we got two places? An upmarket apartment in Menton – one in an attractive building surrounded by park-like gardens and equipped with pool, jacuzzi and sauna - and a house somewhere further away, inland, with all the features Daryl dreams of. We’d spend roughly equal amounts of time in each place.

Menton's Old Town

And so we started to explore that idea. Apartments ranged widely in quality and price. We’d choose a building that had character and charm. It had to be away from a busy road. Those weren’t easy to find in Menton. We asked an agent – who turned out to be a woman who grew up in Mexico - to show us an apartment in Carnoles, a neighborhood sandwiched between Menton and Roquebrune Cap Martin. This was specifically for information. We hated the apartment instantly. The building was ugly. Though it was on a quiet road, near beach and shopping, the neighborhood was very built up. The apartment itself was badly in need of renovation and much too small for us. At €450k it was definitely overpriced. 

We checked out a house in Carnoles we’d seen advertised online. The address wasn’t provided, but Daryl’s become adept at sleuthing out addresses with the help of Google Earth. I felt excited when I saw the very cute, somewhat traditional house on a flat piece of land with a nice sized garden and a hedge around it for privacy. The perimeter roads were quiet, and bakeries and services were an easy walk away. At €1.5K Daryl felt it was overpriced for a place that didn’t check a lot of his boxes on his list of criteria. For me, this could have been the end of our search! 

Meandering into Roquebrune Cap Martin I noticed how much more appealing this small town was compared to Menton. There were more green spaces and the houses were more spaced out on fairly flat plots. It clearly connoted a more exclusive ambience. Apartment buildings were beautifully designed. Sandwiched between Menton and Monaco, it felt sophisticated but tranquil. This was where I wanted to live. Daryl was just as enthusiastic. We’d driven to the old town of Roquebrune on the previous day which oozed medieval charm. Also, because it was high up, the views of the sea and surroundings were magnificent. We wouldn’t choose to live near the medieval village, but down near the water the area was a dream location.

Park with Ancient Olive Grove

We studied the window posters of estate agent offices in the area. An apartment on a street called Virginie Herriet excited us. We hopped over to the building complex, which looked stunning from the outside. An elegant two storey structure surrounded by landscaped grounds, equipped with a pool and tennis court. It was close to Cap Martin Park, a big green area with groves of ancient olive trees. It was also a short walk to the coastal path we loved. The beach and train station were a quick walk away. A heart fluttering moment for both of us! 

We contacted the agent and arranged for a viewing. A young, enthusiastic man, happy to speak English, showed us two apartments in that building. They were both upmarket, with expensive flooring and high quality finishings. Most remarkable were the views of sea, mountains and Monaco from most of the windows and the terrace. But both 2 bedroom apartments felt too small for us. Also, we noticed peeling paint on walls of both units, pointing to a structural issue with the building. Maybe not a dealbreaker if that could be addressed. But, we had done more research and knew that nearby there were other upmarket apartment buildings. 

We were now equipped with an important piece of information. We’d have to consider a budget of close to a €1 million for a space that we’d be happy with. We told the agent what we didn’t like about the apartments and shared with him our budget and criteria. Then Daryl blabbed to him that we may be buying 2 homes! We left Menton with that idea. We felt sure we’d be back. So much tourist stuff we hadn’t done. Such as hopping on a train and checking out the famous Italian restaurant called Pasta y Basta in Ventimiglia that everyone raved about. 

To summarize: We love Menton. Roquebrune Cap Martin seems like the ideal place to live. We’d be able to walk to shops, to the coastal path, the beach, and the train station. We could walk into Monaco and Menton, two cities with lots of entertainment. Nice would be within easy access by train. However, a house and garden of the size that we’d like, would be out of our price range. An apartment is the only possibility here.