In 2016, a month after the shattering presidential election, we found solace in the splendor of New Zealand's South Island. In December 2023 we returned to Aotearoa (the Maori name that seems increasingly favored). Our itinerary this time included stops in the North Island and new places on the South Island. We landed in Auckland after a five hour flight from Papeete, Tahiti. It was a deliciously mild December afternoon, perfect for a walk along the waterfront and harbor area. We scored a terrace table at Vida Cochina Mexicana, where we absorbed the upbeat atmosphere of attractive Viaduct Harbor over a tasty meal and a divine margarita. At this point, having had 2 dreamy days on the island of Moorea en route to New Zealand, we were in full vacation mode.
After a very enjoyable first night in Auckland we rode the spotless new train back to the airport to pick up a rental car and begin our road trip. We headed to the Coromandel Peninsula which took us along a scenic coastline around the Firth of Thames. Sandy beaches and turquoise water invited periodic stops for brief walks. To reach Whitianga, our base for the next 2 nights, we veered into the dense forest on a brand new highway - Highway 25A. A typhoon had washed away the original highway, and the new one provided an impressive ride up a steep pass then down to the other other side of the peninsula.
Whitianga was peaceful and pretty, with a wide beach and a good assortment of restaurants in the town center.
New Zealand's North Island was experiencing a "heatwave" - and, for us, that meant comfortable temperatures to be outside and enjoy al fresco dining. On our first night we were drawn to the terrace vibe of "Cooked", a Mexican restaurant. We were so taken by the inventive quesadilla and tacos, not to mention the exquisite margarita that we decided to return to the same restaurant the next evening. The burrito and roasted cauliflower did not disappoint. We treated ourselves to churros for dessert. We learned that the chef hailed from Barcelona!
There's no escaping the smell of sulphur in Rotorua! Bubbling mud pools, geysers, and hot pools define this town.
On Christmas Eve I stumbled upon a French bakery near our Rotorua hotel when I went on a hunt for breakfast pastries. The croissants were exquisite. This bakery was also well stocked with festive treats. We happily paid NZ$50 for a daintily decorated brandy infused Christmas cake before leaving town.
The festive atmosphere in New Zealand was pretty subdued. Stores were modestly decorated and didn't belt out holiday tunes. I didn't see any Santa Clauses ringing bells. Christmas trees were in the background. It was a summer vibe that prevailed - a vibe that would continue unruffled after the calendar year ended.
We spent Christmas Day and the day after at Tongariro National Park, famous for its volcanic peaks. We'd hoped to spend much of our time on hiking trails in this forested area. It poured on our way to the park and the views we looked forward to seeing were shrouded in mist. It poured all of Christmas Day too. We were pretty much stuck in our not very exciting hotel, named Skotel, and chosen because of its location inside the park. It did have a very nice restaurant and bar area with mountain views and that offered a welcome change from our room.
On the day after Christmas, during brief dry spells, we were able to hop on a few trails close to the hotel.
It cleared up on the day we were leaving, giving us the opportunity to hike up the flank of one of the three big volcanoes. Most hikers came here to do the 19 km Tongariro Alpine Crossing, supposed to be quite spectacular. Patches of snow at the top of the mountain contrasted beautifully with the dark volcanic rock. We left the area satisfied that we managed to enjoy some of what it had to offer.
It was a long driving day - 5 hours, but the roads were good and not terribly busy.
In Wellington the restaurant choices for dinner overwhelmed us. We chose Malaysian, a cuisine we rarely encounter in California. It was a no frills place, filled with locals and the food was tasty and inexpensive. We strolled down Cuba Street and hopped over to the waterfront area. It was all quite atmospheric. We sampled local (expensive) beer at a popular brewery with a harbor view.
The next morning we crossed the channel on an enormous ferry. The South Island phase began.
We spent a pleasant night in the cute harbor town of Picton, familiar to us from our previous visit. The variety of restaurants for such a small town was impressive. We chose Indian for dinner and had no regrets at all. Perfect spicing and a crispy naan.
Then began the highlight of our trip. A four day hike on the Queen Charlotte Track. On our previous visit to New Zealand we'd done the Milford Track. We had paid Ultimate Hikes a huge amount of money to do all the organizing and ensure some pampering in the form of luxury accommodation and gourmet meals. The experience was unforgettable. Though the Queen Charlotte Track was a far less complicated affair we decided to use the services of "Natural Encounters". They booked our accommodation on the track, took care of our luggage transportation and booked all taxi ferries. All we had to do was appear at the trailhead each morning and walk an average of 10 miles each day.
For four days we were immersed in breathtaking Marlborough Sound scenery. The track was wide, with gentle gradients. Also, it was shaded much of the time. Unfortunately, it rained much of the time and this resulted in muddy trails. We had to concentrate on where we were stepping all the time. So it wasn't quite as relaxing as it could have been.
This was wine country. And Sauvignon Blanc was the specialty.
We stayed at Punga Cove Resort the first 2 nights of the hike. An exquisite setting with individual cabins perched on a cliff and the restaurant terrace overlooking the Marlborough Sound. What a divine way to end the day!
We finished the hike on New Year's Eve. Exhausted. Achy feet. We'd covered 42 miles (70 km) in total. Before we had set out on the walk the tour company, Natural Encounters, gave us a description of what each day would look like. They assured us that the walking times on the brochure were averages and we were likely fitter than average. On the trail we realized that the average hiker was half our age and twice as fit. Everyone seemed to race past us. We had to really hustle to make it to the boat taxi each day. That was an eye-opener!
Picton on NYE was vibrant. After some restful sleep at our hotel, when we limped out for an evening meal, the restaurants and bars were packed. Live music and joyful chatter and laughter filled the air. The big park beside the water was filling up with folks on picnic blankets. A band - one of several - had started their set on the main stand.
On our previous New Zealand visit we'd coincidently spent New Year's Eve in Picton too. We knew that the midnight fireworks would be fantastic. But after dinner our bodies desperately needed to be horizontal so staying up was out of the question.
The next morning, the first day of 2024, we were well rested and ready for our new destination. Kaikoura, on a peninsula, is famous for whale watching. But we were told that the boat ride is bumpy and not fun if you're prone to seasickness. So, instead, we spent our time strolling on well maintained tracks around the peninsula where the views were captivating and the fur seals quite plentiful.
Limestone rock formations provide great nooks for the seals. What an interesting bit of coast. Walking anywhere in this town was immensely rewarding due to its location that provides mountain and coast views. Usually, there's snow on the mountain tops, but it was midsummer, so we didn't get to see the area at its prettiest.
From Kaikoura we drove south along the coast then headed west to the edge of the Southern Alps. At Hanmer Springs, a spa town, we spent much of our time soaking in thermal pools.
The town is pretty much dominated by an enormous complex of pools of various sizes plus water slides and other fun stuff for kids. We were most impressed by the nice variety of restaurants and an excellent bakery. On the first evening we tried out a bustling Indian restaurant. The baingan bartha was exquisite - smoky and well-spiced. We loved the tandoori roti and the paneer dish too. We were back there on our second night.
We ended our New Zealand vacation in Christchurch, from where we'd be flying to Sydney. We had spent a couple nights in Christchurch back in 2016 so we were familiar with this city.
Two notable features of Christchurch were its culinary scene and the Botanic Gardens. Researching restaurants for dinner took hours because of the incredible range and enthusiastic reviews. We settled for Indian due to our repeatedly successful experiences on this trip. A light, steady rain made the short walk from our hotel a little more interesting. We traversed the pedestrianized downtown, now almost completely rebuilt after the 2011 earthquake, and with relief were seated immediately at the restaurant despite it being a Friday evening. The meal was very satisfying.
Further proof of the city's food scene appeared the next day at lunch time. We had spent all morning strolling through the botanic gardens, gasping at the massive trees, and had worked up quite an appetite. The food hall at Riverside was the obvious place for lunch. Judging by the crowd in the hall, it was a popular sentiment. How to choose from so many tempting options? We circled the hall multiple times. Eventually, I chose Sri Lankan hoppers and Daryl chose a pita sandwich from a Greek stall. Sitting out on the terrace we were in the midst of a summer Saturday morning downtown atmosphere. Quite a buzz emanated from busy cafes, buskers, shoppers, and strollers.
New Zealand is remarkable in so many ways. I won't submit to cliché and go on about its natural beauty, but I cannot resist enthusing about its people. Polite, respectful, well-mannered, ever-ready to help folks all over the place. There also seems to be a lot of civic pride. No litter anywhere. It's clean, neat and tidy everywhere - from the big cities to the little towns. What a pleasure it was to be a visitor in such a welcoming place.
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