Holiday Destination: Trinidad and Tobago

December 17 - 31, 2015

Naturally, 2015 had to end somewhere exotic to bring a year of adventurous travel to a fitting close. From the East Coast, the Caribbean was a no brainer, and after ruling out the islands that provided nothing beyond stunning beaches, (hedonists we are not! I swear!) Trinidad and Tobago became our choice. This southernmost - just 8 miles from the coast of Venezuela - and least popular vacation destination in the Caribbean, is also the wealthiest in the region. A thriving economy based on oil, gas, and manufacturing has produced a substantial middle class population. Its mix of cultures, with ancestries from India, Africa, Europe, and Latin America gives it a richness which is immediately apparent in the local cuisine and the music.
A week in the capital, Port of Spain (POS), an emerging vibrant city, gave us the experience of learning about a new country and its people. Built up, clean, residents spiffily attired in the latest name brands, it was hard to believe we were on a Caribbean island (but for the fierce tropical heat and the accents and coconut palms and screeching parrots!).

Arriving at our VRBO rental in the upmarket Newtown area, we were reminded of South Africa. Heavy security in the form of gates, burglar guards, high walls, and barbed wire pointed to economic disparity and high crime. We had to be cautious at night, sticking to lit up busy areas. Luckily,  Kaisos Blues Bar, right next door, served excellent pina coladas, and their nightly live Jazz concerts were probably the city's best entertainment. Top restaurants, stores, and the city's main tourist attractions were minutes from us too.

Queen's Park Savannah, a block from us, is the focal point of the wild Carnival celebrations in late February, an event that draws floods of visitors to POS. In the day time the park, a wide grassy field studded with trees, is deserted due to the brutal tropical heat. But at dusk, when we strolled across the park, we saw lots of locals exercising, jogging or playing soccer and cricket. Vendors selling coconut water, and a night food market provide colorful atmosphere. We marched across the park, passed the Magnificent 7, an over the top row of mansions, then to the Royal Botanic Gardens. This peaceful setting was perfect for an early evening stroll. Massive trees, subtle tropical fragrances, and beautiful bird calls spiked up our moods. Every few minutes the peace was disturbed by noisy green parrots fluttering across treetops in flocks. 

It was cloudy with off and on drizzle, when we first ventured downtown. We noticed a vegetarian restaurant just before hitting the main shopping areas, so we ordered our first traditional Trini lunch of pumpkin, callalloo (made with greens and okra), and chickpeas. A blended drink of fresh tropical fruit juice and coconut milk was delicious and refreshing. Then we continued on to busy Frederick Street, found coffee at a Rico's, a Starbucks like chain, and headed over to Independence Square,
 a shaded, paved promenade between two parallel streets. Concrete chess tables and benches scattered about draw locals here to relax and "lime" (local lingo for hanging out with buddies). Arriving at the striking 18th century Church of Immaculate Conception, we were accosted by a vagabond who wanted Daryl's coffee! We turned around and entered bustling Charlotte Street, lined with produce vendors selling tropical fruit and very healthy looking vegetables. Weaving our way through the crowd and constant stream of traffic, we escaped to Frederick Street. With festive shopping in full swing, the stores and modern shopping malls were packed with locals whose ancestors came mainly from Africa and India. I kept thinking how close we were to Venezuela, and how far away we were from home.

A friendly woman called Michelle, of English descent, was our tour guide for a day. She drove us to the Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary in the Northern Ranges which stretch from the east to the west coasts of Trinidad. On the one hour drive out of the traffic clogged city and into the lush countryside, she gave us a lot of background about the country's history and geography. 

At the Asa Wright Center we, along with lots of other western tourists, sat on the verandah for a while to do some birdwatching. We saw brightly hued hummingbirds and honeycreepers. Then, on a guided hike through the sanctuary, we saw more birds and other wildlife.

Traditional Trini food: Roti skins - aka dhalpuri - are filled with split pea, and stuffed with spicy curries. Calalloo - a mixture of okra and a green spinach like herb called "bhaji", spicy chickpeas and pumpkin are common fillings. Shiann's, down the street from us, served the best roti wraps, and a long line of locals at lunch time was proof.
A popular street snack is doubles - spicy chickpea curry inside two small fried flatbreads. I never missed an opportunity to get these - and loved them every time.

At the Caroni Bird Sanctuary we went on a boat tour through the Caroni waterways during the last hours of daylight. Dense clumps of mangroves smothered the banks.

We saw crabs, and OMG(!) a snake all coiled up on a branch above. Lots of small blue herons and egrets swooped around us. The highlight occurred when we arrived at the lake right at sunset. Huge flocks of scarlet ibis, the country's national bird, appeared. They began to adorn the lush trees which covered the island in front of us. Time to roost. Apart from the cries of the birds, there was such tranquility and the natural world around us was just magical. On the ride back, in the dark, the driver flashed his light on caimans on the banks. Yikes! 

We allowed ourselves the luxury of 3 nights at the Hyatt by the waterfront for a different experience of POS. From our room we enjoyed stunning views of the Gulf of Paria, especially at sunset, always with rum and pineapple juice cocktails for the full tropical experience! The hotel's location, however, was not ideal to access restaurants, bars, and the Savannah after dark due to high crime. But blissful evening temperatures meant hanging out on the hotel terrace, and enjoying festive songs and old jazz favorites by seriously talented musicians.

Black cake, similar to Christmas pudding in taste and appearance, is a rich, moist, rum soaked fruit cake, and a traditional Christmas dessert in Trinidad. We'd discovered a gourmet bakery on French Street on our first day, where we'd found excellent bread and scones. Before leaving the city for Tobago, we returned there for this cake. On Christmas day and the days after, we savored every morsel of this sensational treat.

Our second week, which started on Christmas Eve, was all about soaking up the beauty and tranquility of paradisical Tobago. We stayed in a remote fishing village called Castara, which lay at the bottom of steep rain forested cliffs. Sublime vistas from our luxurious Castara Retreat apartment kept us in a state of euphoria. Lying on a hammock in the open walled living area, I caught up with my reading, and experienced the joy of gawking at tropical birds. Outside our apartment was a huge mango tree studded with epiphytes. 

We moved to a different apartment - Blue Mango - on Day 4 where we traded luxury for thrilling sunset views. We were closer to the water, on a headland, and from our balcony we were transfixed by views of both Little and Big Bays. As darkness fell, fireflies flittered about in the bushes below us. While our apartment was basic, almost shabby, and small, the beauty around us was pretty astonishing.

I could tell I was in paradise because every morning I awoke to a parade of gorgeous feathered visitors. Seeing the motmot was special. Other birds we saw were bananaquits, royal terns, kingbirds, barred antshrikes, hummingbirds, grey tanagers, magnificent frigate birds, pelicans, and parrots.

We started each day before sunrise with a walk on the beach, and getting splashed by the powerful, but lovely water. Fishermen fueled up their boats, and flocks of pelicans swooped over us. After sunrise, the air temperature rapidly rose, giving us the perfect excuse to lie on the hammock, and read.

Coconut bake is a traditional bread served at breakfast time. Chino's Coffee House made the best on the island, fresh and warm in the morning. Roasted coconut, the primary ingredient, renders the bread crispy and and delicious.What a treat with morning coffee!

A full day in the Crown Point area of Tobago - the most built up and crowded part, gave us a chance to check out the much hyped Pigeon Point Beach.
We rose at dawn and strolled to this protected park. And yes, it was indeed like the pages of a travel brochure with palm fringed beaches of white powdery sand, and heaps of coral and that perfect turquoise hued water. What pure joy to tread on the soft sand as we made our way to Store Bay Beach. Here, the calm, warm water beckoned. We had our most enjoyable swim of the vacation here. This was followed by a buffet breakfast which included delicious coconut bake, juicy pineapple, and scrambled eggs. We were staying at the Tropikist Hotel, right on the beach, so great sea views from our table enhanced the whole experience.

A 20 minute flight later got us back to POS on New Year's Eve. We spent a quiet evening at the Hyatt, listening to soothing live music on the terrace beside the Gulf of Paria. We needed a good night's sleep before the long flight home the next day, so we were sound asleep when fireworks were set off to herald in 2016.

A Warm December Day in NYC

December 13
On this spookily warm (mid 60's) December Sunday we spent much of the day enjoying New York's outdoor attractions. We had lunch in Brooklyn - a yummy veggie burger from a take out café. Then we popped into Vineapple for a caffeine fix. A local vibe, large tables, sofas, and youngsters hunched over MacBooks reminded us of Berkeley cafés. The coffee was decent too.

Time to join the throngs on the Brooklyn Bridge. As we strolled toward Manhattan, we were entertained by stunning views the whole time. First, the Lower Manhattan skyline appeared, dominated by the WTC Observatory and Gehry's Residential tower. Midtown's skyscrapers and the Manhattan Bridge then came into full view. Looking south of the Hudson River, to Staten and Ellis Islands, the Statue of Liberty commanded our attention. Fighting through the crowds was a bit challenging, but we enjoyed the walk anyway.

Over on the Manhattan side we took some moments to admire City Hall and the other beautiful buildings before taking the subway to 14th street.
We spent the afternoon on the High Line - as did everyone else in NYC. You guessed it! Another few hours of fighting through crowds for views ... and space to actually move forward!
In the late afternoon, when our legs were beginning to protest, we went down to street level in Chelsea. Daryl asked Siri to take us to the nearest place serving cocktails. We entered a tiny coffee shop, and when we asked about the bar, a doorman pushed the wall, and a door swung open. We found ourselves in a dimly lit, elegant 1920's style speakeasy - the Bathtub Gin. In this perfectly romantic spot a potent herb infused martini begged sampling. The place was empty at this time of day, but we could tell they were setting up for a full house later. An hour later we staggered to Blossom Restaurant, a few blocks up, where we were meeting up with an old pal.


We last saw Jamie about 15 years ago. So, over a tasty vegan meal, we did a whole lot of catching up. Daryl and Jamie, both mathematicians, have shared many memorable experiences together in their younger days, such as road trips to National Parks in the West. So this reunion was a bit like seeing a close family member after a long, long time. What a special evening!

Boston

November 30 - December 3
It's December, so of course Boston was cold. Brrr! And rainy. But I bundled up and took the "T" – Boston's efficient subway system – from Somerville, where we spent 2 nights with colleagues, into the city. First stop: the visitor's center at Boston Common. Armed with a map and a plan, I was ready to brave the chill (mid 40's) and begin the Freedom Trail. But first, a detour into the lovely Public Garden with its famous duck pond (Make Way for Ducklings?). 

Public Garden

Despite the bleakness of an early winter landscape, I stood on the pretty bridge across the pond and thought how lovely everything looked.

I followed the very well laid out red brick trail through the downtown area to famous historic sites. This very walkable city makes it easy to appreciate its eclectic mix of architectural styles spanning almost 400 years. Brushing up on the Revolutionary War wasn't too painful either. I'd taught this stuff to 5th graders in past years, so it was a lot of fun to actually see places like Paul Revere's House. Around noon my feet were numb despite warm socks and boots, and luckily I'd arrived at Faneuil Hall, Boston's "Cradle of liberty", and first food hall. 







Among the market buildings was bustling Quincy Hall which was packed with food stalls. Hungry and cold, I was so pleased to be surrounded by all kinds of exotic and tempting things to eat in a toasty interior.

A tasty spanakopita gave me a boost of energy to continue on the Freedom Trail which now led me to the North End. On a cobbled road I saw the old wooden house in which Paul Revere lived. 

Paul Revere House

After scanning the many high end Italian restaurants in this area, I spotted a cosy café. In this perfect resting spot I sipped cappuccino and read a few chapters of a book set in London. Darn! The last stretch of the Freedom Trail led me to the Old North Church, famous for the place where lanterns were hung to warn Paul Revere that British troops had arrived. Cops Hill Burying Ground was next, then over to the Charles River. I'd had enough of the brisk air so I decided not to cross the Charlestown Bridge to Bunker Hill where the trail ended.
My iPhone showed I'd covered 6.6 miles even though the Freedom Trail was 2.5 miles in total. So, yes, I'd seen a fair amount of the city. Must return in warmer weather.

I absorbed through all my senses, the scholarliness of the area. You sense you're surrounded by brainiacs almost as soon as you get off the train platform and take a seat on the "T". Everyone is serious, either poring over the pages of some important work of literature, or engaged in academic discourse. Even the subway buskers are unnervingly talented. At the Harvard Square station a young woman crooned chansons in such a haunting voice, we wished the wait for the next train would be longer. 

In Cambridge, after a brief stroll through Harvard Square, Peets Café lured us away from the chill and rain. Robust coffee (and yes, that Peets! They are all over now, and I'm finding it a bit disconcerting. Too Starbucks like! But their coffee is bloody good) allowed us to watch the action from a warm spot. Later, we ambled across Harvard University, silently, aware of the sacred air and solemnity of our surroundings. We had lunch at Clover, a contemporary vegan restaurant, where menus are displayed on all the walls and waiters walk up to you to take your order. They make everything from scratch, even the pita bread, so a simple falafel platter was particularly tasty. So was the butternut squash soup.

From our Cambridge hotel beside the Charles River on our third day, it was an easy hike to MIT and Kendal Square. This area had quite an urban feel with its high tech companies and splashy shops.

A sensational meal at Oleana in Cambridge was definitely a high point. Run by a local celebrity chef, Ana Sortun, the cuisine is Turkish in orientation, with a huge emphasis on creatively prepared vegetables. We each ordered the Vegetable tasting menu ($40 pp), which turned into an 8 course meal of shared mezes and dessert. Each well crafted course with interesting flavor and texture combinations was pure culinary joy. Some examples: spinach falafel with beet yogurt in a thin pita roll; spicy fideos with chickpeas and chard; apple fatoush featuring beets and pomegranate. A hoppy, local IPA went really well with this divine meal. We'd intended to take a taxi back to the hotel because we were exhausted. But I was so totally stuffed that despite the crisp night air, I begged to walk back. The half hour trudge through Cambridge helped hugely, but we didn't make it to the hotel lounge where we'd hoped to enjoy the terrific views of Boston and the Charles River over cocktails. Next time ... 

Yup! We had a good time in Boston.

Thanksgiving followed by Rachmaninoff

November 26 - 28
An unseasonably warm - early 60's - Thanksgiving day at IAS started off with a pleasant walk in the woods. The trees are completely bare now, but there's a different beauty.
Therese and Danny hosted dinner, which was an elaborate feast consisting of everyone's tasty contribution. Tasty appetizers of warm brie and pear, veg crudités, and crackers and dips kicked the feasting into action.

We were a group of 12 from various parts of the country, and unlikely to ever come together as a group again. The roast turkey was a hit, and so were the tofu steaks I had marinated in a syrupy balsamic vinegar and dijon mustard before roasting. The usual - roasted brussels sprouts, potatoes, cornbread, mash, cranberry sauce, etc.  - made it all feel authentic. Desserts of apple pie and pumpkin pie made from scratch by Sarah and Jeremy were too tasty to resist biggish slices. We met some new friends - Maya, Asha, and Joshua - who kept the conversation stimulating for hours. Definitely a Thanksgiving for the memory books.

Back in NYC on Saturday for the NY Phil. Their Rachmaninoff festival through the month of November gave us the opportunity to be immersed in the beautiful music of this composer, and also gave us an excuse to spend 3 consecutive full weekends in the city. This time we stayed at an Upper West side hotel, allowing us a chance to get to know this posh neighborhood a little better. We dined at Pasha, an elegant Turkish restaurant where we had a selection of delicious mezzes. Especially loved the smoked eggplant and white bean salad. A pomegranate martini took it up another notch.

We had dessert at the Lincoln Center Kitchen, another fine dining establishment. Here we met a friendly local with whom we talked about vegetarianism. I must say, this city takes veganism very seriously. It isn't hard at all to find really good, innovative, healthy vegan food in even the snootiest of places. Speaking of snooty, it's sometimes hard to tell you're not in Paris! So the local we met, a realtor, chatted about his life in this city that he adored, raving about the excellent entertainment and restaurants and stuff. As we were leaving he gave us his card and suggested getting together for dinner the following weekend. "Yes, we New Yorkers are friendly," was his parting words.
The evening's main event - Daniil Trifonov blasting out Rachmaninoff's Piano Concerto No 3, the Everest of the repertoire played at top concert venues - had us in a state of stupefied ecstasy.  Sitting close to the stage we were totally pulled into the music. It gave us chills to watch the young genius so fluidly and passionately fingering the keys - all from memory. He got a standing ovation with loud cheers from audience. Russian dances followed, also fantastic, bringing the festival to a loud ending.
The beauty of Rach 3 lingered with us for days afterwards.

On Sunday morning we had breakfast at Maison Kayser. Cappuccinos and a basket of delicate pastries fueled us up for another day in the city. Daryl walked across Central Park to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where he spent all day. I took the subway downtown for a stroll along the High Line. A wintry crispness meant wearing hat, scarf, gloves, and my warmest coat. It was a lovely walk - away from traffic with greenery on either side of the path and constantly changing views of the city.

There's some seriously interesting contemporary architecture beside the High Line. Conveniently, Chelsea Market, a bustling food paradise was at the other end. Vegan sushi rolls from Beyond Sushi nourished me in a satisfyingly virtuous way. I spent the afternoon strolling through Chelsea, onto Bleeker Street, then SoHo. For dinner Daryl and I met up at Buddha Bodhi on Mott Street in Chinatown. The meal was okay, but I regretted not getting dumplings.
Then, across the street we saw a crowd in line to get into an ice cream parlor. Ice cream on a chilly winter evening? Well, we had to try it. And that's how we stumbled upon 10Below Ice-cream on Mott Street. This absurdly popular place has a unique style. They make the whole thing in front of you, starting with creme anglaise spread on a chilled metal plate. Fruit, nuts, and other stuff are chopped into the mixture as it hardens, then it's all rolled up and cut into for pieces. Instead of scoops you get rolls that look exotic, but taste fairly normal.


On that chilly note our weekend came to an end.

"Old Times"; More Rachmaninoff; Lower Manhattan

November 21 and 22 - another full weekend in NYC. Lots of cuisine extraordinaire, a Broadway play, Bryant Park holiday market, the NY Philharmonic, and a day with dear friends.

First stop on Saturday was Eataly, a piece of Italy in New York. This food paradise is a combination of market stalls and restaurants intended to totally indulge and pamper people who love and can afford fine food. This month truffles are in season and a pop up restaurant here will be serving a selection of truffle dishes. At La Pizza we smashed a bubbling, crispy pizza that arrived out of a colorful giant beehive shaped wood fired oven, and tasted just like the pizzas we loved in Italy. A dry but fruity white wine paired beautifully with it.
The weather was crisp as we sauntered up Broadway to our hotel in Times Square. "Old Times", a Harold Pinter play on Broadway, provided excellent mid afternoon entertainment. Clive Owen was one of the 3 actors. A compelling performance rendered the play far more arresting than it actually was. (It could easily have been painful with less skilled acting!)

We spent the early evening strolling through the Christmas market in Bryant Park. Even though I have a strong dislike for the holidays, the atmosphere was quite lovely. We were so impressed at the numerous vegan food vendors that we decided to have dinner at the park. We ate al fresco like the locals, braving the late November chill! A tasty seitan burger, Belgian fries, and a mushroom chickpea soup warmed us up. From our table we had a lovely view of the newly unveiled 7 Bryant Park skyscraper lit up in French flag colors.
At the David Geffen Hall on Saturday evening we were 4 rows from the stage. Daniil Trifonov, the 24 year old Russian pianist, sent us to music heaven with his rendition of Rachmaninoff's Piano Concerto No 4, a piece rarely performed. We were also enthralled by the NY Phil's performance of Rachmaninoff's other less popular work, Symphony No 1. Earlier in the week, when I was preparing for this concert, I found the piece pretty inaccessible. It took me a while to appreciate it, and then I just fell in love with this symphony. It was really special to witness a live performance by one of the world's best orchestras, and be so close to the stage!

Our hotel room overlooked Times Square with its gigantic flashing screens and ridiculous crowds. Luckily, soundproofing and curtaining allowed us a peaceful sleep.
Sunday morning started with breakfast at Bouchon Bakery, at an outside table in late November (yes, it was brisk!), and we enjoyed it. English couples at tables on either side of us livened up the conversation.
Late morning we headed downtown to see our friends Lee and Lucy who live near City Hall. From the balcony of their 23rd floor apartment we had a great view of Frank Gehry's building, one of the tallest residential towers in the world. Terrific views of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges from their living room window too.

What do locals do for lunch on Sunday? Dim Sum in Chinatown, an obvious choice for us, since it involved a 5 minute walk from their home. Two hours at a vegetarian restaurant on Mott Street gave us a chance to do a lot of catching up. Lee and Lucy are such energizing company and our conversations are always satisfyingly intellectual. The food was splendid too - dumplings filled with watercress, a plate of greens, a tofu stir-fry with lots of vegetables ...

Our afternoon stroll took us past all the noteworthy attractions of the Lower Manhattan area. Zuccotti Park, of 'Occupy Wall Street' fame; the Woolworth Building, and lobby for a glance at its mosaic ceiling. Trinity Church, Wall Street, Customs House then to Battery Park and the tip of Manhattan where the East and Hudson Rivers meet. Walking along the esplanade we had views of the Statue of Liberty. Then into the World Trade Center Winter Garden Atrium, awed at the plushness - palm trees, marble floors, an art installation.

Upstairs, we checked out the various fine food restaurants and gourmet market. Through the glass walls we had lovely views of the new buildings on the site of the old World Trade Center. A white tiled subterranean passage - like walking through a contemporary painting (reminded Daryl of an Escher painting) - brought us to the WTC Memorial buildings. The Observatory with its facade of triangles and reflective glass, dominated the skyline throughout our stroll.
Leaving the WTC area we entered TriBeCa, which had a quieter, neighborhood vibe. Lucy pointed out the cast iron buildings that the area is famous for. From Duane Street we continued past the Federal Courthouse and African Burial Ground before returning to their apartment.

What a joy to stroll through Lower Manhattan. To get a guided tour with wonderful friends is even more joyful. How lucky we are!

11/13/15 Paris and NYC Weekend

We awoke to a dismal Saturday morning, after tragic bombings in Paris the night before. It was the first really chilly day of the season with the mercury hovering in the upper 40's.

I opened the blinds and looked out at the landscape of nearly bare trees. Not my favorite time of year!

A gloomy mood took possession, my thoughts on innocent victims of brutality all over the world.

Since we were heading into NYC for an evening classical concert at the David Geffen Hall, we looked into $25 rush tickets for the midday opera at the Met. We lucked out, snagging excellent seats for Tosca. Before the performance, the entire cast got on stage and sang La Marseillaise. We all stood up and using the lyrics provided, sang along. At the end there were cheers and shouts of "Vive la France." It was not a moment to be critical of the French National Anthem, or the policies of western leaders. It was a time to show solidarity, especially in New York, where a sense of vulnerability pervaded.
With Placido Domingo conducting, the opera was terrific. The famous arias from Tosca - "Viss d'arte" (I live for art, I live for love) by the soprano and E lucevan le stele (And the stars shone) by the tenor before his death were sung so beautifully. Heartbreaking. Appropriate for a day when a sombre mood prevailed in the city, and I'm sure around the world.

Dinner at Sapphire, a pretentious, overpriced Indian restaurant two blocks from Lincoln Center, was a disappointment with its bland fare. We were in the mood for spicy, robust flavors, which was why we chose an Indian restaurant!

The NY Philharmonic on the other hand, was spellbinding. Rachmaninoff's Piano Concerto no. 2 and Rhapsody on a Theme of Paganini warmed the depths of our souls.

We had front row seats, with a fantastic view of the passionate Russian pianist, 24 year old Daniil Trifonov.

We splurged on a room in a terrific midtown hotel near Rockefeller Center, to avoid a late night train ride back to Princeton. After a restful night's sleep, we marched over to Bouchon Bakery just across the street from us. It was a lovely fall day, 10 degrees warmer than the day before.

This Thomas Keller establishment must serve the best breakfast pastries in town. It goes without saying that the almond croissant and cranberry scone we had were exquisite. Through the window we watched people standing outside the NBC studios watching a live recording of The Today Show.
After a lazy morning around the Rockefeller Center we had lunch at Le Pain Quotidien. The place was packed and service was painfully slow. But we did enjoy very much the caramelized brussels sprouts soup and salad of farro, roasted squash, pecans, and other veggies.

We took a long stroll, first along Broadway, where a Christmas market was being set up. Then into Chelsea with its numerous fancy food places, and ended up in Greenwich Village. An attractive café lured us in for a coffee and almond tart. It was great to rest our weary feet and escape the city's bustle. Later, a wander around the haunts of the Beatniks, then Christopher and Bleeker Streets, ending in Washington Square gave us a good feel of this interesting neighborhood. So different to Midtown.

With the sun low in the sky we were ready to head to Penn Station for our train to peaceful Princeton.

Philly Fun

November 9
Wandering the very walkable streets of downtown Philadelphia on a remarkably mild November day, fall foliage lingering amongst historic buildings, and multi-ethnic locals smiling with evident pride, I thought this isn't just a city with a drama filled past, but a city with soul. Few American cities evoke that sentiment. It has a metro system, it's walkable, the Old City has charm, buildings from the 18th century abound, there are cobbled roads, pretty parks, a gracious visitor's center with clean public restrooms, non chain cafés serving strong java and high quality baked goods, and this is a foodie city.

Liberty Bell - used to call the Pennsylvania Assembly to meetings; adopted by abolitionists, suffragists, and oppressed groups as their symbol. The Liberty Bell Center was built especially to give this icon a permanent home from where it could be viewed by the public.

Independence Hall - dating back to the 18th century. This is where the Declaration of Independence was signed on July 4, 1776. It's also where the 1st and 2nd Continental Congress met to draw up the Constitution.

Roasted Gold Beets with Smoked Tofu and Avocado

 The upscale Vedge Restaurant, with their unique take on gourmet vegan cuisine, definitely showcased Philly's impressive culinary scene. We were so exhausted after all that walking, and so appreciated the comfortable sofa seat and inviting ambience. We sat back, enjoyed a vodka cocktail, and perused the delightful menu. There's a lot to be said for classy, unrushed service, while you savor delicate flavors and textures served with artistic flare.

City Hall - couldn't get over that stunning faćade - beautiful sculpture and columns

Caught only a glimpse as we rushed past this largest municipal building in the country. Night had fallen and time to head back to Princeton.