The Milford Track - Week 2

Fiordland National Park, bookended by Queenstown

Week 2 (December 18 - 23, 2016)

From Dunedin we headed west to Queenstown to begin the next phase of our vacation. We were booked on the Milford Track, "one of the world's most beautiful walks" with Ultimate Hikes, and 5 days of Fiordland National Park wilderness lay ahead of us. Highway 8 started out in pastoral, undulating terrain, before the appearance of a rocky landscape as we entered Central Otago. Then came views of Lake Dunstan and the peaks of the Southern Alps. Near Cromwell we entered a thriving agricultural area with highway stands of apricots and cherries, along with numerous vineyards and wineries. Pinot Noir is the main grape varietal here. The last stretch into Queenstown where lush green gave way to brown mountain slopes, was even more breathtaking. 

We checked in at the Novotel, nicely situated right beside glimmering Lake Wakatipu. At the top of this lake is the picturesque town of Glenorchy where most of the mini-series "Top of the Lake" was shot. Queenstown, with an impressive concentration of hotels and restaurants, was hopping with tourists. Youngsters are drawn to the many adventure sports like bungy jumping. Our Milford Track adventure started here with a late afternoon orientation meeting at the Ultimate Hikes headquarters. We met our guides - four young, strapping nature enthusiasts - and our fellow hikers, an international group of mainly professionals of all ages.

At dinner time we strolled out into the balmy evening along the lake scouting out the restaurant scene. Lively Irish music from a crowded pub lured us in for a beer. We sat up on the balcony, gazing at the lake and the Remarkables, a mountain range framing the town, while tapping our toes to the happy music. We ended this perfect day at an Italian restaurant where we gorged on excellent gnocchi, drenched in a flavorful sauce, followed by a divine tiramisu.


In the morning we lugged our backpacks over to the Ultimate Hikes Center and braced ourselves for some serious outdoor adventures.

Day 1

A 3 hour coach ride through sublime mountain scenery got us to Te Anau where we had a decent lunch consisting of a selection of salads. The coach then delivered us to our boat at Te Anau Downs. Despite the grey, drizzly day which kept us inside, the cruise to the top of Lake Te Anau was a moving kaleidoscope of thrilling lake and mountain vistas.

Glade Wharf

From the wharf it was a quick 1 mile hike to our first lodge, Glade House. This meant another 32.5 miles of hiking lay ahead of us. I flopped on the bed in our room and just stared out the window at the Clinton River and steep mountain slopes. Already it felt like we were deep in the wilderness, far, far away from the festive hype of the outside world. After a satisfying cup of tea and a cookie, we followed our guides on a nature walk. Hiking poles came in useful as we went up a steep trail through dense vegetation. We arrived at the rocky bank of the river and just sat down and drank in the beauty that surrounded us. Later, at our lodge our pampered evening started with wine and an assortment of hors d'oevres - olives, sun-dried tomatoes, crackers and cheese. We got to know our fellow hikers a little better over drinks and board games. They were from all over the world- the USA, Australia, South Korea, Japan, China, Germany, France, and there some Kiwis too. A 3 course gourmet dinner was followed by a session of introductions. And then, a slide show briefing by the enthusiastic guides about our trail for the next day.

Day 2 
A warm, sunny day began with a hearty breakfast. Along with eggs and sausages, there were cereals, fruit, porridge, stewed fruit and yogurt. We made our lunches from a selection of sandwich fillings, together with a few sweet treats, trail mix, and fruit. By 8:30 we were all on the trail. But within minutes, it was clear that most of the group, far ahead of us, consisted of seasoned hikers. First, we crossed a suspension bridge over the Clinton River and entered a beech forest. About an hour later we detoured onto a boardwalk in a wetland area. Strange and colorful mosses (including an insectivore species), distinctly different from the rest of the area, characterized this little section of the park. The mostly flat trail continued into more rainforest area, before a gradual ascent up the Clinton Valley where the rock walls go up to 4000 feet high. 


From our sheltered lunch stop, where our guides served us hot drinks, we could see Hirere Falls across the valley. Continuing on through a clearing we got views of McKinnon Pass which we would be crossing tomorrow. After more forest, with a short delay to enjoy the song of a bell bird, we arrived at Prairie Lake where we stopped to take in the views and watch intrepid souls dive into the cold water and swim to a gentle waterfall. Further on, the track opened up to the prairie with views of permanent ice fields and waterfalls. We ended our ten mile hike with a stream crossing. At Pomplona Lodge buttery scones with cream and jam awaited our arrival. From our bedroom we had a staggering view of waterfalls spilling down a towering cliff. We spotted a few keas, noisy green parrots that love to eat the soles of boots! 
After a short rest we followed what became our routine on this 4 day hike. We washed and dried our clothes, using the convenient laundry facilities and spacious drying room. Then, to the lounge area for cocktails, hors d'oevres, light conversation and relaxation. Next was dinner, a hearty affair with 3 exquisite courses served with the flair of an upscale restaurant. A slide presentation with a description of the next day's trail rounded off the evening. 

Day 3
On this most challenging day of the hike I couldn't help feeling nervous about crossing a mountain pass, especially because heavy rain and wind was forecast for the entire day. By 7:30 AM we were all on the trail. An easy first hour on the flat to the head of Clinton Valley, then a gradual climb up Practice Hill leading to Lake Mintaro. Protected from a steady rain by all the necessary gear, coupled with hiking poles and backpacks, a bathroom stop was unthinkable! We stopped for drinks at Mintaro Hut, before proceeding to the section of switchbacks. Though not strenuous, we had to cross several gushing streams, resulting in drenched socks and boots. But wool stays warm, we learned! Our feet were never cold, despite being wet. Halfway up, the Nicholas Cirque came into view. This great carved out depression against a circle of glacial mountains looked so primeval, and with the rain and mist, so mythical. We couldn’t stop to admire the view though. We had to get to McKinnon Pass and over fast. The foul weather was worsening. The trail became steeper and harder, especially with a backpack. Hiking poles were absolutely essential. At Mackinnon’s Memorial, a monument close to the summit, gale force winds pummeled us. A guide gave us a “pick me up drink” - hot gatorade - and some words of encouragement. I put on my wool hat and warm fleece, and braved the elements. At times the stinging rain and gale force winds forced me to crouch down.

Mt. Balloon

At the summit, we made a conscious attempt to ignore the weather and take in the unique and startling scenery. Of course, much of it was hidden under thick mist. The partial views of sheer mountain slopes and deep valleys and little lakes certainly made us feel like we were in a movie setting. This was the climax of our four day hike ... But the finger-numbing chill, and lashing rain made it impossible to linger. Down a bit, then a most welcome lunch stop at Pass hut. How wickedly cosy it felt to be cocooned inside a warm shelter, sipping steaming coffee, while outside the world seemed at its harshest. 
We were warned that going down would be more challenging, but somehow I was convinced that the hard part was over. Wrong! First, rain stung my cheeks and I howled with pain. We had to move fast to get to milder altitudes. We came to a waterfall crossing, requiring scrambling up, across, and down huge boulders. I panicked, fearing that my backpack would make me lose my balance as soon as I lifted a foot to the necessary height. With Daryl's commands and encouragement, I scrambled across. Amazing what you can accomplish when you have no other choice! Eyes peeled to the ground we managed not to break any bones as we dropped altitude. We came to a series of rushing rivers. A guide was posted at the first one to instruct each of us on how to get across. Again, adrenaline kicked in. I imagined getting swept away by the staggering current. Definitely out of my comfort zone. But, I stepped on exposed boulders as instructed and made it across each raging stream. Soon, the terrain became less treacherous and the weather a lot friendlier. The scenery the whole time was breathtaking. Most notably were cascading waterfalls gushing down towering cliffs. We were immersed in a water soundscape - every possible pitch and tone that a gigantic volume of rushing water can make. A new challenge plagued me when we came to swing bridges. My left knee became inflamed and it was excruciating to climb up and down steps. I had to go slowly, putting most of my strength on the right knee. How annoying! We could have been sailing over these swing bridges otherwise. It was almost 5:00 PM when we crossed Roaring Burn swing bridge before limping into Quintin Lodge after a 9 mile hike. What a glorious moment! 
In our room, which once again looked out to jaw dropping Fiordland scenery, I peeled off my wet clothes, and collapsed into a deep slumber. An hour so so later we were both rested and refreshed and ready for the evening routine. Over dinner we had cheerful conversations with an Australian couple from Singapore, and a couple from England on their honeymoon.

Day 4
We followed a steady downhill trail on this last day of hiking the Milford Track. Reasonably easy, but due to my inflamed knee, it was absolute agony to step over the many fallen tree trunks. The weather was pretty good, starting out with a slight drizzle, and clearing up as the day progressed. We encountered stream crossings immediately, meaning another full day of soggy socks. 



Spectacular scenery was once again the order of the day, starting out with thundering Sutherland Falls, the 5th highest waterfall in the world. More swing bridges as we descended Gentle Annie, a rocky hill. Then came a flat stretch through moss covered rainforest. We stopped for coffee at Boat Shed, a welcome shelter from the infamous sandflies which were starting to annoy us. After crossing a swing bridge we came to Mackay Falls, famous on this trail, and Bell Rock. Just before our lunch stop we arrived at a tricky section. A narrow, sloping trail was cut into a steep granite cliff. To the right was a sheer drop into Lake Ada. Luckily, the "sweeper" guide was with us. He cautioned me to take small steps into rock grooves. With adrenalin pumping I finally got past this 200 meter stretch. The trail leveled off into a rainforest. The last stretch, after lunch, was pretty flat and wide, making it possible to pay full attention to the lushness, and the dramatic slopes and valleys and the mountain peaks and water falls and Lake Ada. 



The track came to an end at Sandly Point, after a 13.5 mile walk today. Here, we were served hot drinks, used the clean, modern restrooms, fought off sandflies, then boarded the boat to Milford Sound. As we approached the harbor, the stunning fiord scenery evoked memories of Norway's west coast. Mitre Peak, instantly recognizable, poked up through a cloud layer.  
At the harbor we boarded a coach which deposited us at luxurious Mitre Lodge. What an amazing location! The view from our bedroom was iconic Milford Sound. I could've just planted myself on the bed and stared out forever. 
As it was our last evening together as a group, we celebrated by dressing up in more elegant clothes which the company had collected from us back in Queenstown and ferried over to this lodge. Costumed cooks and the guides dressed in fancy evening wear added to an atmosphere of celebration. After dinner we gathered together one last time to receive certificates for completing the hike. 

Day 5 
When I opened my eyes, the first thing I saw was Mitre Peak rising up from the beguiling waters of Milford Sound. Patches of fluffy cloud floated along its slopes adding to its mystique. My gaze shifted to the sunlit glacial mountains, some draped in a layer of snow, their contours clearly defined against a cerulean sky. I could even just about see some spray from the famous Bowen Falls. This was certainly one of those rare life moments to savor. How could I not feel a profound gratitude to be granted this incredible privilege?
After breakfast, we made our lunches one last time, a final group ritual, before packing up. 

Milford Sound

The short stroll from Mitre Lodge to the harbor provided a chance to feast our eyes on the scenery. We took photos, lots and lots of photos in hopes of making this moment last forever. The weather was just glorious for our cruise through the sound. As the boat left the harbor we got full frontal views of majestic Bowen Falls overlooked by a snowcapped mountain. We sailed through inlets, where we saw many waterfalls, then out into the Tasman Sea before turning around. The only interesting wildlife we saw were New Zealand fur seals basking on a gigantic boulder. We got as close to Stirling Falls as possible, and I managed to take a photo without getting drenched. Well, this most entertaining cruise was the perfect end punctuation mark on the Milford Track.

A 3 hour coach ride back to Queenstown, with a lunch stop in Te Anau took up the rest of the day. Highway SH94 cut through rugged Fiordland mountain scenery, and I wondered if this ranked in the Top 10 of the world's most scenic roads. However, an intrusion to our enjoyment occurred when the coach hit a boulder and got a flat tire. We made it all the way to Te Anau, but slowly and noisily! 
It was late afternoon when we found ourselves back at the Novotel in Queenstown. Our intense 5 days on the Milford Track caught up with us. Even though the town buzzed with pre-Christmas atmosphere, we were sapped of energy. After a low key dinner at an Indian restaurant, we returned to the hotel for a indulgent hot tub soak. Wow! Our aching limbs were so thankful. Afterwards, we strolled along the lake, absorbing the lively atmosphere, and then watched the sun set and the lake changing colors in the fading light.  The setting elicited contented smiles and sighs. We had just experienced one of our most stupendous weeks ever.

New Zealand's Captivating South Island - Week 1

It starts in Christchurch ...

December 13 - 18, 2016

Kia ora! This is how New Zealanders greet visitors. And instantly this Maori word for "Welcome!" sweeps you into the the warmth and openness of the locals. Cultural pride and a commitment toward ethnic integration are in full display. A 3 Week Car Journey into LOTR Country provided an escape from the political despair back home. What sheer bliss to be greeted by a constant panorama of emerald lakes, gushing waterfalls, snow blanketed ridges, steep gorges, dense beech forests, fields choked with lupines of many hues, desolate beaches, etc., etc. We sampled and quaffed Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Otago Valley Pinot Noir; we chatted with locals; and pigged out on berries, cherries, and apricots acquired from roadside farm stands. It was all quite magical. 

We flew into Christchurch, picked up our rental car, a Yaris hatchback, and keeping on the left side of the road, we arrived at our delightful motel. We quickly learned that in New Zealand, motels consist of units rather than rooms. Each unit is like an apartment, often bigger than most London homes! We settled in easily spreading our gear into the bedroom, living room and decent sized kitchen, then headed out for Indian food. And boy, were we astonished at the intense flavors and perfectly prepared vegetables. Cousin Angie sampled the lamb curry and was so taken by it, she declared that we had to return to this restaurant on our last day of the trip.

In the morning the December sun was fierce and the sky cloudless. We strolled along surprisingly mellow streets into the downtown area. We were struck by how English everything felt. Also the severe earthquake in 2011 pretty much destroyed downtown, and the city is still in recovery mode. Pretty heartbreaking to see the damaged main cathedral. Giant contemporary sculpture works have been installed to perk up the area.

The Botanic Gardens, on the other hand, were utterly breathtaking. Spread along the banks of the pretty Avon River, and with its numerous ancient trees, graceful and lofty, a meander proved most uplifting. We enjoyed the tropical garden inside a glasshouse, and sniffing the heady perfumes of the roses in full bloom. We continued through Hagley Park, a vast green space that wraps around the Botanic Gardens, before emerging onto the street back to the motel.

An afternoon drive into Banks peninsula, an area that arose from ancient volcanic eruptions, rewarded with splendid scenery. Almost as soon as we left the Christchurch city limits the road emptied out and the scenery turned pastoral. We stopped at a farmstand and bought 2 huge bunches of bright and healthy asparagus and some plump, dark cherries. Driving on Summit Road we got a better sense of this coastline with harbors and bays radiating out from the center. We stopped in the little "French" town of Akaroa. On its high street little shops and cafes strive to give off a French village vibe. We enjoyed strolling down to the harbor, drinking in the vibrant colors and elegant contours that surrounded us. We debated whether to join the queue for a boat ride to see Hector's dolphins, but it was a little too late in the day for yet another activity.

The next morning we went crazy with our purchases at the food markets, before heading south on Highway 1. When we cut inland on Highway 79 the Southern Alps came into view.
The weather turned blustery, so we had our lunch of asparagus and scrambled egg sandwiches in a sheltered cemetery esconced in bucolic countryside.

Lake Tekapo and the Alps

Arriving at Lake Tekapo, our second destination, the turquoise water kept us spellbound. From our motel apartment just above the lake we had jaw dropping views. The weather was awful, with gusty winds and a steady drizzle. This area, the Mackenzie Basin, has been declared an International Dark Sky Reserve. We drove up to Mt John Observatory, but it turned out to be a wasted effort since the mountains were hidden under thick cloud. So we indulged in a luxurious afternoon at Tekapo Springs, soaking in the deliciously warm thermal water, while gazing at the lake and mountains which were becoming increasingly visible as the weather cleared up. An equally enjoyable evening followed, starting with a homemade dinner featuring a variety of spring vegetables, accompanied by a decent local wine and a stunning view of lake and mountains from our dining table. Around 8:00 P.M. the sky was clear and daylight would linger past 10:00 PM. So we went for a long, long stroll along the lake, gulping in fresh mountain air. As darkness fell, we gazed at the sky, but a full moon made it a challenge to identify southern constellations.


From Lake Tekapo we drove to Twizel along a very scenic stretch of Highway 8. Large expanses of lupines blanketed the ground. Lake Pukaki, much bigger than Lake Tekapo, has the same turquoise blue quality due to glacial deposits. We headed west on Highway 80 to Mount Cook National Park. The mountain views were spellbinding despite the cloud hovering over Mt Cook. Over a picnic lunch across from the Hermitage Hotel, we gawped at Mt Cook, catching glimpses of its peak whenever the cloud lifted. We then took a short hike on a gentle trail for more views. A coffee stop at the Hermitage Hotel, was followed by a hike on the Tasman Valley trail. A steep, but easy climb brought us to the lake across from which we had a clear view of the Tasman Glacier. We were fascinated by the ice floes on the lake too.

Back on Highway 80 to Twizel, then a long, long drive through rolling countryside. Flocks of sheep everywhere, but hardly a human face around. We arrived in Dunedin late Friday afternoon.

Dunedin

It's the "Scottishness" of the city that impresses first. After a simple dinner of red lentil dhal, veggie sausages, and steamed broccoli prepared in the very elegant kitchen of our contemporary styled motel apartment (grey and maroon decor), we strolled out into the octagon. Among historic, architectural sights likes St Paul’s Cathedral and the Public Art Gallery were bars, cafes, and restaurants. A great summer vibe emanated from a spirited crowd and live music. At 10:00 PM it was still light. It's the furthest south we've been.

The bustling Saturday Otago Market the next morning was delightful. Was the entire town here? Produce stands brimming with early summer fruit and vegetables required willpower to exercise restraint. There were stalls selling home made baked goods, cheeses, olives, coffee, just about everything. Miraculously we left the market with just coffee beans, wine, small pies, cherries, gooseberries and an irresistible Christmas pudding that looked better than homemade. The Edwardian train station grabbed our attention before we headed back to our motel. 
To our delight, the main road was closed off to traffic due to the city's biggest annual parade. It was graduation day and students in caps and gowns paraded down George Street, led by a band of bagpipers dressed in kilts. Couldn't have chosen a better day to be in town!

In the afternoon we drove into the Otago peninsula on a narrow, winding road right beside the water. The landscape became increasingly desolate and rugged. On a tour at the Royal Albatross Center at Tiara Head, we gazed in wonder at the great wingspan of the albatross gliding above us. From a look-out we watched adults sitting on eggs in nesting grounds.
As we strolled along the cliffs, and stared in fascination at the choppy waters out here in the roaring 40's, we wondered why living things would choose this harsh climate.

A 90 minute tour through a series of hides at Penguin Place gave us the opportunity to see a few yellow eyed penguins as they left the ocean and waddled over to their roosting sites.
We'd seen African dwarf penguins in Cape Town, South Africa, where hundreds are easily visible, so this was a bit disappointing.

We ended our time in Dunedin at the famous Speyside Brewery, along with the families of graduates. Here, we enjoyed a hearty tomato soup, filo puffs, and their special IPA. For dessert we returned to our apartment for Daryl's stewed gooseberries (from the morning farmer's market) served with a rich creamy custard. And that was just the perfect way to end our time on the east coast of South Island.

Seattle Diary

Day 1 Midmorning arrival at our Air BnB after an easy 2 hour flight from home, then a ride on the fancy metro link and a bus. First impressions arose from a walk through the nearby International District, gritty and shabby despite vibrant Asian stores and markets. For much of the walk we saw mainly Asians, and several shops catering to Vietnamese shoppers. We were amazed, and pleased at this sign of the city's diversity. Crossing under the I-5 freeway, we were greeted by an endless string of homeless people and noticed a sprawl of tents in an informal encampment.
So, on to the stuff tourists come to see ...

First stop: Grand Central Bakery at Occidental Square in the Pioneer Square district. Rustic breads and an assortment of fruit filled buttery pastries filled us with glee. At an outside table in the wide open square under a gray sky we enjoyed steaming coffee and a pastry in a pleasant atmosphere created by live music, totem poles, big, leafy trees, and views of the Smith Tower and other attractive buildings.







With restored spirits and energy level we wandered over to Waterfall Garden Park, then explored Pioneer Square, where we admired the bust of Chief Seattle and the totem poles, before continuing along busy 3rd Street lined by retail stores and restaurants.

Next stop: Pike's Place markets. A wander down the aisles to gawk at brightly hued, high summer produce in their prime. More entertainment came from vendors selling various artisanal crafts  – gemstone jewelry, knitted woollies, scarves, pottery, and Seattle sports team paraphernalia.

Lunch at a deli across the street from the market was tomato soup and a roasted vegetable sandwich. A view of the waterfront and the local Pike's IPA  added to the feeling of indulgence.

Popped in at a few wine shops which resulted in the purchase of a red blend from a small winery (Nine Hats) just outside Seattle. We were eager to try it out over a leisurely meal, which would have to be prepared at our Air BnB.
So we hopped back to Pike's market for the enticing chanterelles we'd seen earlier. A few more purchases, including fresh pasta, and we were all set for our evening of relaxation. The trudge back (a mistake – we should've taken the bus, but wanted to work off the food we'd eaten!) was long, sweaty, and for the first half of the way we were pretty much dodging homeless bums and offers of marijuana. We resolved to stick with public transportation in the next days.
The evening didn't turn out as expected. Even though the apartment had a proper kitchen, there was NO STOVE! We couldn't believe it. After all, wasn't the point of a proper kitchen the ability to cook meals? The wine was excellent, compounding our disappointment of not being able to enjoy it with our chanterelles and pasta.

Dined at a nearby Vietnamese restaurant called Moonlight Café. A modest place with a full vegetarian menu. The vegetable pho and orange veggie chicken turned out to be exceptional, with lots of flavor and a decent selection of fresh, crunchy vegetables.

This was a prelude to Seattle's sophisticated food scene.

Day 2 – Birthday: Took in Seattle's main tourist attractions; and ended the day with an extravagant, indulgent meal at a top restaurant.

Wish I didn't have to acknowledge birthdays anymore, as they come quicker and quicker, and I lose track of how old I really am!! Started the day with strong Seattle coffee and pastry across the street from the Space Needle, then joined the crowds on the vertical jolt to the top. Spent a good hour taking in the views from all angles from the top of the Space Needle. Another gray day meant blurry mountain views. Where the heck is this Mount Rainier everyone talks about? We weren't disappointed though. All those curvy inlets and sounds and lakes and of course, the skyscrapers gave us plenty photo opportunities.

At ground level we headed next door to the Chihuly Glass and Garden museum. What an astounding display of blown glass sculpture! In dreamlike awe we floated through the museum, the stunning glasshouse, and into the garden where the marriage of brightly colored glass shapes and graceful plants seemed unexpectedly compatible in a wild, nontraditional way. Dale Chihuly sure is a genius with glass.

Crossed over to the outdoor sculpture park along the waterfront where quirky works of art made for an entertaining stroll toward the city center. At Pike's Place had a light lunch of cheese and tomato on a crumpet half at The Crumpet Shop. Necessary to prepare ourselves for the day's big event – a multi course dinner at the famous and very posh Canlis Restaurant.

Early evening we donned formal attire. Daryl in a black suit and tie, I, in a knee length silk dress. Public transportation got us to the posh Upper Queen Anne area. Entering the elegant restaurant you are instantly immersed in an atmosphere of pretentiousness. Everyone is super polite, overly attentive. Its location near the George Washington Memorial Bridge provided a splendid view of Lake Union from our table. A live pianist played uplifting tunes in a nonintrusive way. Each of the 9 courses, artistically displayed, arrived in well timed succession. A full bodied red wine, smooth and dry, from a nearby winery complemented the meal very well. Every attempt in clear evidence to make the meal an experience to savor. It felt like we'd been transported out of Planet Earth to some fairytale land for a few hours.
Definitely a memorable birthday.

Day 3 A drive to Snoqualmie Falls and the Cascades

On this warm, sunny day we picked up a rental car and got on the I-90 to Snoqualmie, Twin Peaks country. Marveled at steam trains of yesteryear at the Northwest Railway Museum, then had a light, forgettable lunch in the little town of Snoqualmie.

Returning to the I-90, with Mount Si on our left, we drove to Twedes Cafe in North Bend for the "best damn cup of coffee" and a slice of cherry pie.
Delicious pie; mediocre coffee.

Snoqualmie Falls, at 268 feet tall, was a gorgeous sight. A nature trail took us through pine woods and provided views of nearby mountains. Popped into the Salish Lodge (The Great Northern Hotel of Twin Peaks), located just above the falls. Nice combination of luxury and rustic, excellent restaurant with views of mountains and valley.

Later in the afternoon drove up the Snoqualmie Pass, taking in views of Mount Si and the Cascade range. Went all the way up to the summit, a popular ski area, before turning around.
From I-90 we took the scenic 202 past Redmond, where Microsoft is based, and stopped at The Commons in Woodinville for dinner. This little town, just minutes out of Seattle, is famous for its concentration of wineries and farm to table gourmet restaurants. Our meal of roasted tomato soup, fresh baked pretzel, fries, and a veggie dish consisting of lentils, grains, and an assortment of vegetables was divine. Couldn't imagine a better way to end a most enjoyable day.

Day 4 Further afield - a drive out to Mount Rainer

A magnificent two hour journey, with mesmerizing views of the king of the Cascade range, glistening white in the sunlight, patches of blue translucence, its graceful contours against a pale blue sky. Mount Rainier commanded awe. Bigger and more beguiling as we approached, an unforgettable day lay ahead of us. But, it was late morning and we hadn't had coffee or breakfast so we were on the lookout for a café. A particular type, in keeping with this part of the world, funky, and definitely locally owned. Found it a half hour before our destination. Yes, it had that small town American diner look about it, and the blueberry pancakes had a "made from scratch" appearance and taste, but the coffee was barely drinkable and the oatmeal was shocking. Made by shaking instant oatmeal into a bowl and pouring hot water over it. We saw them do it!! Well, we had the necessary calories...

... to sustain us through a 3 mile stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail in the Mount Rainier National Park. Immersed in sublime scenery the whole time – glimmering lakes, subalpine meadows, forests, and of course, Mount Rainier, at 14, 410 feet, the attention hogger. At one point we were able to see Mount Adams in the distance. Two exhilarating hours of pure mountain air, under a clear blue sky, the air temperature blissful in that late summer way. The hike itself was easy - a lot of the trail shaded by lanky pines, and only a 1,000 feet elevation gain.
On the drive back we yielded to a bakery's tempting selection of fruit pies which had a "homemade" look about them. We were on a mission to find huckleberry pie, but we had to settle for a "jumble berry" pie. Quite decent it was too.

Early evening in the city we explored the University district and strolled through campus for views of Mount Rainier. We had originally planned to have dinner in this area but despite the many viable options, the very casual vibe didn't grab me. It felt too much like Isla Vista back home.

Online research led us to Cafe Flora, an fine vegetarian restaurant near Madison Park, an upmarket suburb. Dinner of portabello mushroom pie and grilled polenta with a variety of glistening, seasonal vegetables was truly satisfying. Another example of Seattle's culinary expertise.

On our last day, a sunny, cloudless Saturday morning, we drove out to Discovery Park which buzzed with locals. The loop trail took us along the Puget Sound coast and directly across from us we could see the Olympic National Park. For most of the hike we had great views of the Olympic Mountains framing the sky in front of us. The Queen Anne neighborhood is closest to this park and because most of it is high up, residents have views of the Seattle skyline, the lakes, and the mountains.

Using Siri for lunch options we found ourselves at a small, but atmospheric farmer's market in the suburb of Magnolia. From the many tempting options we settled for a spicy mushroom pie, plump blackberries, and a berry tart. Sitting on the sidewalk we took in the elegant surroundings. Definitely upper middle class, a complete absence of homeless people.

As we headed back to the car for the drive to the airport I reflected on what a segregated city this is. Seattle is really a city of neighborhoods, each with its distinct character.

From the airplane back home we had incredible views of Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and the Columbia River Gorge.

Holiday Destination: Trinidad and Tobago

December 17 - 31, 2015

Naturally, 2015 had to end somewhere exotic to bring a year of adventurous travel to a fitting close. From the East Coast, the Caribbean was a no brainer, and after ruling out the islands that provided nothing beyond stunning beaches, (hedonists we are not! I swear!) Trinidad and Tobago became our choice. This southernmost - just 8 miles from the coast of Venezuela - and least popular vacation destination in the Caribbean, is also the wealthiest in the region. A thriving economy based on oil, gas, and manufacturing has produced a substantial middle class population. Its mix of cultures, with ancestries from India, Africa, Europe, and Latin America gives it a richness which is immediately apparent in the local cuisine and the music.
A week in the capital, Port of Spain (POS), an emerging vibrant city, gave us the experience of learning about a new country and its people. Built up, clean, residents spiffily attired in the latest name brands, it was hard to believe we were on a Caribbean island (but for the fierce tropical heat and the accents and coconut palms and screeching parrots!).

Arriving at our VRBO rental in the upmarket Newtown area, we were reminded of South Africa. Heavy security in the form of gates, burglar guards, high walls, and barbed wire pointed to economic disparity and high crime. We had to be cautious at night, sticking to lit up busy areas. Luckily,  Kaisos Blues Bar, right next door, served excellent pina coladas, and their nightly live Jazz concerts were probably the city's best entertainment. Top restaurants, stores, and the city's main tourist attractions were minutes from us too.

Queen's Park Savannah, a block from us, is the focal point of the wild Carnival celebrations in late February, an event that draws floods of visitors to POS. In the day time the park, a wide grassy field studded with trees, is deserted due to the brutal tropical heat. But at dusk, when we strolled across the park, we saw lots of locals exercising, jogging or playing soccer and cricket. Vendors selling coconut water, and a night food market provide colorful atmosphere. We marched across the park, passed the Magnificent 7, an over the top row of mansions, then to the Royal Botanic Gardens. This peaceful setting was perfect for an early evening stroll. Massive trees, subtle tropical fragrances, and beautiful bird calls spiked up our moods. Every few minutes the peace was disturbed by noisy green parrots fluttering across treetops in flocks. 

It was cloudy with off and on drizzle, when we first ventured downtown. We noticed a vegetarian restaurant just before hitting the main shopping areas, so we ordered our first traditional Trini lunch of pumpkin, callalloo (made with greens and okra), and chickpeas. A blended drink of fresh tropical fruit juice and coconut milk was delicious and refreshing. Then we continued on to busy Frederick Street, found coffee at a Rico's, a Starbucks like chain, and headed over to Independence Square,
 a shaded, paved promenade between two parallel streets. Concrete chess tables and benches scattered about draw locals here to relax and "lime" (local lingo for hanging out with buddies). Arriving at the striking 18th century Church of Immaculate Conception, we were accosted by a vagabond who wanted Daryl's coffee! We turned around and entered bustling Charlotte Street, lined with produce vendors selling tropical fruit and very healthy looking vegetables. Weaving our way through the crowd and constant stream of traffic, we escaped to Frederick Street. With festive shopping in full swing, the stores and modern shopping malls were packed with locals whose ancestors came mainly from Africa and India. I kept thinking how close we were to Venezuela, and how far away we were from home.

A friendly woman called Michelle, of English descent, was our tour guide for a day. She drove us to the Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary in the Northern Ranges which stretch from the east to the west coasts of Trinidad. On the one hour drive out of the traffic clogged city and into the lush countryside, she gave us a lot of background about the country's history and geography. 

At the Asa Wright Center we, along with lots of other western tourists, sat on the verandah for a while to do some birdwatching. We saw brightly hued hummingbirds and honeycreepers. Then, on a guided hike through the sanctuary, we saw more birds and other wildlife.

Traditional Trini food: Roti skins - aka dhalpuri - are filled with split pea, and stuffed with spicy curries. Calalloo - a mixture of okra and a green spinach like herb called "bhaji", spicy chickpeas and pumpkin are common fillings. Shiann's, down the street from us, served the best roti wraps, and a long line of locals at lunch time was proof.
A popular street snack is doubles - spicy chickpea curry inside two small fried flatbreads. I never missed an opportunity to get these - and loved them every time.

At the Caroni Bird Sanctuary we went on a boat tour through the Caroni waterways during the last hours of daylight. Dense clumps of mangroves smothered the banks.

We saw crabs, and OMG(!) a snake all coiled up on a branch above. Lots of small blue herons and egrets swooped around us. The highlight occurred when we arrived at the lake right at sunset. Huge flocks of scarlet ibis, the country's national bird, appeared. They began to adorn the lush trees which covered the island in front of us. Time to roost. Apart from the cries of the birds, there was such tranquility and the natural world around us was just magical. On the ride back, in the dark, the driver flashed his light on caimans on the banks. Yikes! 

We allowed ourselves the luxury of 3 nights at the Hyatt by the waterfront for a different experience of POS. From our room we enjoyed stunning views of the Gulf of Paria, especially at sunset, always with rum and pineapple juice cocktails for the full tropical experience! The hotel's location, however, was not ideal to access restaurants, bars, and the Savannah after dark due to high crime. But blissful evening temperatures meant hanging out on the hotel terrace, and enjoying festive songs and old jazz favorites by seriously talented musicians.

Black cake, similar to Christmas pudding in taste and appearance, is a rich, moist, rum soaked fruit cake, and a traditional Christmas dessert in Trinidad. We'd discovered a gourmet bakery on French Street on our first day, where we'd found excellent bread and scones. Before leaving the city for Tobago, we returned there for this cake. On Christmas day and the days after, we savored every morsel of this sensational treat.

Our second week, which started on Christmas Eve, was all about soaking up the beauty and tranquility of paradisical Tobago. We stayed in a remote fishing village called Castara, which lay at the bottom of steep rain forested cliffs. Sublime vistas from our luxurious Castara Retreat apartment kept us in a state of euphoria. Lying on a hammock in the open walled living area, I caught up with my reading, and experienced the joy of gawking at tropical birds. Outside our apartment was a huge mango tree studded with epiphytes. 

We moved to a different apartment - Blue Mango - on Day 4 where we traded luxury for thrilling sunset views. We were closer to the water, on a headland, and from our balcony we were transfixed by views of both Little and Big Bays. As darkness fell, fireflies flittered about in the bushes below us. While our apartment was basic, almost shabby, and small, the beauty around us was pretty astonishing.

I could tell I was in paradise because every morning I awoke to a parade of gorgeous feathered visitors. Seeing the motmot was special. Other birds we saw were bananaquits, royal terns, kingbirds, barred antshrikes, hummingbirds, grey tanagers, magnificent frigate birds, pelicans, and parrots.

We started each day before sunrise with a walk on the beach, and getting splashed by the powerful, but lovely water. Fishermen fueled up their boats, and flocks of pelicans swooped over us. After sunrise, the air temperature rapidly rose, giving us the perfect excuse to lie on the hammock, and read.

Coconut bake is a traditional bread served at breakfast time. Chino's Coffee House made the best on the island, fresh and warm in the morning. Roasted coconut, the primary ingredient, renders the bread crispy and and delicious.What a treat with morning coffee!

A full day in the Crown Point area of Tobago - the most built up and crowded part, gave us a chance to check out the much hyped Pigeon Point Beach.
We rose at dawn and strolled to this protected park. And yes, it was indeed like the pages of a travel brochure with palm fringed beaches of white powdery sand, and heaps of coral and that perfect turquoise hued water. What pure joy to tread on the soft sand as we made our way to Store Bay Beach. Here, the calm, warm water beckoned. We had our most enjoyable swim of the vacation here. This was followed by a buffet breakfast which included delicious coconut bake, juicy pineapple, and scrambled eggs. We were staying at the Tropikist Hotel, right on the beach, so great sea views from our table enhanced the whole experience.

A 20 minute flight later got us back to POS on New Year's Eve. We spent a quiet evening at the Hyatt, listening to soothing live music on the terrace beside the Gulf of Paria. We needed a good night's sleep before the long flight home the next day, so we were sound asleep when fireworks were set off to herald in 2016.