Thailand Vacation Part Four

Bangkok

Christmas Day

Our first taste of Bangkok was on Christmas Day when we spent a night in the city before heading south to Krabi.

Bangkok's traffic

After  a 6 hour journey from Phitsanulok on a clunky train (mitigated by cushioned seats in a quiet, air-conditioned, second class compartment, plus the belief that long distance train journeys reveal much about a country) we hopped into a taxi and found ourselves in a thrumming metropolis. The ride to our hotel in the Sathorn area near Lumphini Park took a half hour for a distance under 3 miles. Yes, the traffic was insane, but not in that crazy way I'd seen in India and Vietnam. Nobody honked, the cars looked new-ish, and the sluggish flow appeared orderly.

Our hotel room, just for the one night, turned out to be an elegantly furnished studio suite which included a plush sofa, a dining table, and a fully outfitted kitchenette. Wow!  

Late in the day when the temperature was bearable we stepped out into an urban center with visible 21st century aspirations. Smartly dressed office workers spilled out of glass and steel skyscrapers. Though it was Christmas, it appeared to be a normal work day. This part of Bangkok, the financial district, had a distinct global feel to it. We past a Starbucks, a BNP Paribas, Deutsche Bank, fast food places, a bakery displaying muffins, cookies, and Danish pastries. English featured everywhere.

A pedestrian bridge gave us access over a traffic clogged thoroughfare into Lumphini Park. For a short while we escaped the city's frenzy in a small section of this green, open space with a lake and walking trails.   

In the evening we treated ourselves to a fine Christmas dinner at Zanotti, an upmarket Italian restaurant in our hotel neighborhood. The mood was set by a festive interior, white linen, red flowers and ribbons, wait staff in Santa hats with flickering lights, and of course, unavoidably, Christmas tunes in the background. English was the sole language used to address the mixture of Thai and western diners. The menu was in Italian with English translations. So we played along with the pretense that we'd temporarily left Thailand!
Within minutes of being seated a variety of freshly baked breads arrived, accompanied by a fragrant bruschetta sauce. Ah, yes! We smiled, anticipating a feast for the epicure.

Christmas dinner at Zanotti in Bangkok

And indeed it was. Homemade gnocchi in a creamy, cheesy sauce and spinach filled ravioli in tomato sauce. Perfect textures and seasonings. And to wash it down, a Chianti. Dessert was something called bonet Piedmont, a specialty from that region. A block of chocolate créme caramel on an amaretto base, laced with rum. Exquisite. At $100 the meal seemed steep compared to the past week, but by California standards, a bargain.

And then Christmas was over. Thank goodness!

New Year's Eve

Six days after that divine dinner we returned to the capital on an Air Asia flight from Krabi.  Bangkok's unflattering reputation notwithstanding we were actually excited to have three days here at the tail end of our trip. Our mission was to find and indulge in unforgettable Thai cuisine.

In contrast to Christmas night, this time our hotel was in the Old Town. Though our room at the Riva Arun was a fraction of the size of anything we'd previously had on this trip, it didn't lack in luxury. We were beside the Chao Phraya River, in the neighborhood of Bangkok's oldest and most famous monuments.
After settling into our room I stepped outside to explore dining options. Directly across the street I spotted a restaurant called Suppanigga (Ouch! Hated that name!). At 5:35 PM it buzzed with diners on both its ground floor and upstairs terrace. The furniture and décor was the first hint that this was a special place. I browsed the menu, saw a page of enticing vegetarian mains featuring crispy tofu, interesting mushrooms, and creatively prepared vegetables, and knew we had to eat here! Through the restaurant's glass walls I could see boats bobbing over the wide Chao Praya River. Over on the other bank Wat Arun, aka the Temple of Dawn, stood gracefully, imperially, bathed in the rays of a sun low in the sky. "Do you have a table for two?" I asked a smiling waitress. My voice must've conveyed my eagerness.
She hesitated, looked around, then said,"We have a table right now, but we are fully booked the rest of the evening." It was New Year's Eve. Perfectly understandable. I dashed back to the hotel and fetched Daryl. Since we'd eaten a light lunch of mangoes and papaya before our flight out of Krabi, we were so ready for a big meal.

From our table we had a splendid view of Wat Arun, the most photographed of Bangkok's temples. We were facing the Th Thien Boat Pierboat pier on the other side of the glass wall. A crowd had gathered for the last sunset of 2018. In this astonishing setting we had our tastiest Thai meal. I have to say, the breathtaking view was a huge distraction from a meal that deserved our full attention. As the sun descended behind the stunning temple the sky appeared to be on fire. The river was transformed too, golden ripples rendering it unreal in the twilight. What a perfect dinner! Even the dessert, a panna cotta (I know. They were out of mango sticky rice!), was superb.

Sunset from Th Thien Boat Pier - the best way to enjoy Wat Arun as it changes colors

Of course we had to dine at Suppanigga the next 2 nights. But the waitresses shook their heads and chuckled when we asked about reservations. Back at our hotel when I went online I saw that their first available evening was four weeks later, on Jan 28! Darn it!

Later in the evening we returned to the pier to soak up the NYE atmosphere. Party boats glided  by packed with dressed up people dancing to energetic music. Wat Arun, brilliantly lit up, the centerpiece, dominating the view. This temple is different from the other ones we'd seen in the country because of its Khymer architectural style. The towering prang, 80 meters in height, represents the mythological and metaphoric Mount Meru. Surrounding it are four smaller, identical chedis, in a symmetrical pattern.

Wat Arun lit up at night

An hour before midnight we crashed our hotel's rooftop restaurant's NYE dinner party (with permission!). Over fruity cocktails we gazed in awe at the views around us. Modern skyscrapers to the south, and below us, a different perspective of the illuminated party boats and the river. Dazzling Wat Arun, reflected in the rippling water, was especially arresting. The temperature was deliciously balmy. We were surrounded by elegantly dressed diners finishing up their dessert and last sips of wine. American Jazz music was playing and lights and decorations enhanced the atmosphere. Excitement built up as we counted down to midnight. Champagne was passed around to everyone, us included. Pushing aside our anxieties about Brexit and the White House occupant we toasted to a new year as fireworks lit up the sky.

Fireworks to usher in 2019, from our hotel rooftop near the Chao Phraya River

On New Year's Day, a major public holiday in Thailand, we marched in sweltering midmorning heat to the city's number one tourist site, The Grand Palace. When we saw the mega crowd at the entrance we escaped into an air-conditioned taxi. We hoped to have better luck at the Jim Thompson House, second on our Bangkok itinerary. We were so pleased to find ourselves in a quiet part of the city, on the banks of the Saen Saeb Canal.

Jim Thompson House

While waiting for our scheduled guided tour we sauntered through the shady garden full of native trees and shrubs. It felt soothing with pleasant scents, bird sounds, and two large ponds - one with Koi fish and the other turtles and exotic fish. On a tour of the house we learned that Jim Thompson made his fortune by recognizing the superiority of Thai silk and marketing it to the world. (At the entrance to the site tourists are greeted by a local Thai weaver demonstrating the process of silk weaving from cocoons.) A slender Thai woman guide explained in rehearsed English the history and architecture of the Jim Thompson House. Six teak dwellings, connected by elevated planks, had been transported from Ayutthaya, an archeological park north of Bangkok. The main house was a blend of East and West design. Magnificent art pieces and sculpture were displayed in all the rooms - Chinese Ming porcelain, Belgian glass, Cambodian carvings, Burmese statues, Thai stone images, and colonial chandeliers. Interesting fact about Jim Thompson is that he disappeared mysteriously in 1967, never to be found.

Our tour ended at lunch time. We were hot and ravenous, but the vibrant on site restaurants were not vegetarian friendly. So we left the area on a boat taxi, packed with locals, down the canal to the Ratchadamnoen intersection. Despite the many restaurants, hotels, and grand buildings in this busy area, it took twenty grueling minutes of searching before we found a suitable air-conditioned veggie friendly restaurant. But the service turned out to be atrocious. Just when I was about to faint the pineapple fried rice arrived. We scarfed it down. A while later the red curry and steamed rice arrived. It vanished in seconds. Both dishes delivered on taste, but heck, the wait just about killed us.

Adding to the afternoon's frustrations was the tricky business of hailing a legitimate taxi. Tuk tuks, notoriously overpriced, kept pestering us. Then unmetered taxi drivers kept stopping for us. Daryl would've happily hopped into any of those vehicles. I waved them off, knowing a little patience would reward us with a metered taxi. But suddenly traffic officers marched onto the middle of the thoroughfare and stopped all traffic. Nothing was going anywhere! No idea why. So we trudged the remainder of the way, drenched in sweat, cursing the heat.

Later, after a siesta and showers, as we gasped at the sunset from the boat pier, we shrugged off the awful afternoon. Challenges were to be expected when you travel to far away places.

We made an early start the next day. First we heaped on the calories at hotel's rooftop breakfast buffet. The morning views of the river and skyline were stunning in a different way. A deep blue sky formed the background and daylight rendered more clarity and vibrancy. From our table we could see the chedi spires of another famous temple called Wat Pho. The breakfast spread was sinfully lavish for just $12. Homemade granola (too crunchy with mainly seeds and nuts), yogurt, tropical fruit, fresh baked breads, croissants, muffins, eggs, as well as traditional Asian cooked stuff. The coffee was strong, as it always was everywhere in Thailand, so we were thoroughly satisfied when we headed out to the Grand Palace.

The line, just ten minutes after opening time, was already long, but moved fast and within minutes we were inside the grounds. A downloaded audioguide helped us navigate the enormous park on which were numerous buildings and monuments. Most famous, most opulent, was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. We had to fight our way through a thick crowd to see the surprisingly small Buddha image made of jade or some other similar semi precious stone housed in an extravagantly decorated temple.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Giant golden chedi outside the temple were jaw dropping. Other temples in the complex were decorated with gilded figures, Buddha images, and scary carved faces. A long stretch of a shaded mural gallery was a welcome relief from the sun. As we studied the panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana I recalled my visit to Angkor Wat in Cambodia a few years ago.

The Grand Palace, a blend of Asian and European design

The palace complex was a surprise. The main structure looked like it was pulled out of France. Even the formal landscaping around the palace evoked French chateaus. The Dusit Hall, incorporating both European and Asian architectural styles, was quite a stunner.

In the afternoon we took a break from cultural activities and spent a few hours at a shopping center called the Platinum Mall. Everyone told us that shopping was an essential part of the Bangkok experience. We were only too glad for an excuse to be in an air-conditioned, indoor space when the afternoon sun was at its fiercest. First, we headed to the food court on the top level. When we saw the collection of stalls, emulating an upmarket version of street food, we could instantly tell we'd find tasty food. The vegan stall's vegetarian peking duck and noodle stir-fry didn't disappoint.
Clothes shopping is not our idea of fun, but we managed to endure the process and acquire unremarkable but useful items. Most of the stores carried "Made in Thailand" brands, considerably easing the chore.

Thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, we hung out at our hotel's rooftop terrace through the evening, first enjoying sunset cocktails, then dining on dishes made especially for us at tourist prices. The Pad Thai (of course!) and a Thai/Italian hybrid of spicy fettuccini with fried tofu were quite decent. It was our last evening in Thailand. From our table we could see the lit up spires of Wat Pho, a "must see" temple on any Bangkok itinerary. We'd be visiting it in the morning before heading out to the airport.

View of Wat Pho spires from dinner table

Early in the morning the air was still pleasant when we made the short trek from our hotel to Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. We hadn't realized what a huge complex it was until we wandered through its graceful grounds. Beautiful stupas, colorful porcelain facades, Chinese statues, and thousands of Buddha images to make you wonder about the country's history.

Wat Pho

The reclining Buddha covered in gold leaf

The main attraction at Wat Pho is a 46 meter long, 15 meter tall Buddha. It fills up the entire hall. We dutifully gawked at it and walked around to figure out the best way to photograph it. The feet, 5 meters long, were decorated with mother of pearl designs. If you needed a break from staring at the gold leaf Buddha image, you could look at the paintings on the walls for a glimpse of the past.

We'd seen so many Buddha images on this trip. Every size, posture, expression. Buddha is so integral to Thai culture. But, when we boarded the plane hours after seeing the biggest image of all, our knowledge of Buddhism was as dismal as the day we'd arrived in Thailand. Actually, we were now more confused than ever. Didn't Buddha advocate humility, simplicity, a rejection of material things? I guess we have some homework to do!

Thailand Vacation Part Three

Krabi Province

Dec 26 - 30

On a trip to Thailand you're expected to include a beach destination in your itinerary. Because only a fool would skip the opportunity to enjoy one of its numerous idyllic beaches. Of course, there are those tourists who've experienced nothing but the beach resorts. I won't pass judgement on them! After doing our research we chose Krabi, over Phuket and Pattaya and all those other overbuilt, package tour destinations. And so we spent the final days of 2018 at a hedonistic wonderland by the Andaman Sea.
Hmmm. How do I avoid describing our time in Railay like a piece out of Condé Nast?
Take a look at this photo.

West Railay Beach

Our hotel, Sand Sea Resort, is hidden in the foliage close to the water. It's in the middle of a row of resorts, all designed to blend into the scenery to preserve the area's beauty. Between our hotel and the milky emerald water lies a wide stretch of white, powdery beach. The water is warm, shallow, and calm, like a sheet of colored glass. Dramatic limestone cliffs, called karsts, jut out in every direction. The karsts are also the reason this area is cut off from the mainland. An isolated spot, accessed only by boat. A place inhabited solely by tourists and the locals who run the services to keep tourists happy.

Mangrove swamps at East Railay Beach

East Railay, on the opposite side of where we were based, is characterized by mangrove swamps and a muddy, pebbly beach. Though it lacks the grandeur of West Railay, resorts and restaurants nevertheless, line the shore.

Our four days here were all about rest and relaxation. The Sand Sea Resort, where we stayed, wasn't posh. In fact, it was easily the most modest of the strip of resorts lining West Railay Beach. That's why we loved it. The rooms, each an individual bungalow, with thatched roof and a front porch, were charming. Tropical landscaping around each bungalow provided semi-seclusion, and added to a feeling of being away from the real world.

Each room at our not fancy resort is an individual bungalow

There was a back pool and a front pool, each balancing out the other with their attributes. From morning to late afternoon we escaped the cacophonous long tail boats and hordes of day trippers by hanging out at the back pool, where it was peaceful, less crowded, and shaded by mango trees. From lounge chairs we could admire the tops of karsts against a blue sky. Between dips in the pool I spent large amounts of time reading Zadie Smith. I finally finished Swing Time, a novel I had started a while back but for some reason had only got through the first half. Like all her books, I lapped up her originality, her wit, her spot on characterizations. I also got through Feel Free, a compilation of stimulating essays. I especially enjoyed Smith's analysis of the painful Brexit referendum result, an essay she wrote right after that dreadful event. Rupert Murdoch, she mused, is the culprit for the political climate in the UK and the US.
I usually left the back pool when a troop of monkeys paid their daily visit. They bounded up trees, gobbled green mangoes, and showed their disdain for us, humans by peeing and pooping as they swung from tree to tree.

West Railay Beach - time for a swim

Toward the late afternoon the beach's allure was impossible to resist. First of all, the long tail boats, which ferry tourists all day to neighboring islands and the mainland, shut down their services by 5:00 PM. A note about those boats: They are awful! Belching out black, odorous smoke, their loud engines assaulting the ears, how are they allowed here?
When, late in the day, the beach became shaded and cooler from a light breeze, the warm, calm waters of the Andaman Sea beckoned. Yes, this was why we'd flown thousands of miles! To feel that delicious sensation of salty wetness from head to toe.
It was also a popular time for kayakers to paddle out into the water, around the karsts. The sound of splashing oars added to the magic.

Stalactites on a karst

A leisurely beach stroll, barefoot on soft sand, splashed by warm water, followed a swim. The coolness and shade allowed us to get close to the karsts. They were full of attractive features like stalactites, caves, and gouged out surfaces.

Sunset over the Andaman Sea from West Railay Beach

Sunset at the Andaman Sea was an event. We headed to the front pool of our hotel for the show. At 8 degrees above the equator, sunset in December was at 6:15 PM. The beach filled up with people sitting on mats, sipping cocktails, gazing at the horizon. A gin and tonic was our drink choice, and from our pool lounge seat we'd look straight across the water. As the sun sank lower and lower, a stillness would fall, everyone transfixed by the changing colors and reflections. When the sun disappeared the clouds turned fiery. Dusk lingered for about an hour after sunset.

Then it was time for dinner. We'd head to the walking street, a vibrant lane full of restaurants, shops, and bars. It has to be said the dining scene for vegetarians was unexciting. There's variety, which excited us initially. Pizza (wood-fired even), pasta, lots of Thai food, a vegan/vegetarian take-out, and Indian. Most restaurants emphasized freshly caught fish and seafood prepared on barbecue grills. We had a disappointing Thai meal, but two excellent Indian meals at Kohinoor. I was reminded of the delicious food I'd had in India when I tasted their paneer tikka masala cooked in a tandoor oven, and a mixture of fresh vegetables exquisitely cooked in a spicy tomato based sauce. Even the naan bread was crisp with a slight smokiness, and divine.

Divine. A word that could be applied to every waking moment during those four dreamy days on a gorgeous beach in southern Thailand...

Krabi Town

Dec 30

We spent a night in Krabi Town for a more "authentic" experience in this part of the country before heading to Bangkok. A long tail boat ferried us back into the real world of car traffic, busy streets, and people going about their everyday, normal lives. We hid from the unbearable heat in our air-conditioned hotel room until sunset. Stepping out into the town, as night markets were opening up, we were pleased to see a good blend of locals and tourists. On Railay Beach the only locals we encountered were hotel and restaurant staff and strangely, most of them were muslim of Malay descent. In the evening the whole town of Krabi seemed to turn into an open-air market. We soaked up the vibrancy as we wandered through lanes of stalls carrying souvenirs, textiles, crafts, clothes, and made to order food, mainly seafood.
Suddenly, the sky clouded up, and a storm erupted. We escaped to a trendy, western restaurant for an overpriced pasta dinner.

The next morning we had breakfast at another trendy, western restaurant, May and Marks.

A healthy breakfast at May and Marks in Krabi

Everything on their menu sounded heavenly. Daryl opted for muesli with yogurt and tropical fruit (papaya, pineapple). I had to work hard to resist a breakfast pastry and settled for their house made sourdough toast topped with poached eggs. Of course, the cappuccino was as satisfying as we'd come to expect everywhere in Thailand.

The Crab Sculpture that gives the town its name

Before leaving Krabi we strolled along the inviting paved riverside pathway. From the picturesque river-mouth, the karsts, further away, seemed tame.We came to a square crowded with tourists all lined up to be photographed beside a giant crab sculpture. Aha, we thought, so that was how the town got its name!

It was the last day of 2018. New Year's Eve excitement was in the air. More heightened than in the northern hemisphere where it was midwinter.

We would be in Bangkok in the evening, and hoped for a good view of fireworks at midnight.

Thailand Vacation - Part Two

A Little Car Trip ...

To Doi Inthanon, then South to Sukothai

December 22, 2018

A spirit of adventure and a desire for independent exploration propelled the decision to do a self-drive in northern Thailand for a few days. Friends advised against this, urging us to hire a car with a local driver. I spent some time doing online research on self-driving in Thailand only to find a dearth of information. Most self-drive experiences were posted by Asian residents from nearby countries who were used to driving on the left on poor roads inhabited by aggressive drivers. But it wasn't hard to find information on high road fatality rates and unpredictable road behavior.

Much to our relief, the drive to our first destination, Doi Inthananon, a national park in the mountains 60 km out of Chiang Mai, was pretty straightforward on well maintained paved roads. Traffic thinned out as we left the city, and the modern four lane highway transitioned into two lanes. Road signs were mostly in Thai script so Google maps were essential. We drove past villages and paddy fields, with uninhabited pristine landscape in between. 

Our day in the mountains was not your typical day in the wilderness experience. Sure, we saw plenty of nature's splendor. Starting with a cascading waterfall that we were gawking at minutes after entering the park. And as we drove further up through jungle we caught blissful views of valleys and mountains through periodic openings.

Waterfall at Doi Inthanon National Park

It was when we headed to our lunch destination, the Royal Project, that things turned unusual. This national park is actually home to hill tribes, notably the Hmong. The Royal Project, an agricultural organization situated in a Hmong Village, trains and educates locals in sustainable farming practices. At the project's entrance there were strawberry fields and fruit stands run by Hmong people. 

We saw a lot of strawberry fields at Doi Inthanon. The produce stand was run by Hmong locals

We had to pay an entry fee of $2.00 each to enter the grounds of the Royal Project. Their restaurant was recommended by Kevin, the owner of our homestay where we'd be spending the night. We'd met him in the morning before entering the park when we went to check out our evening digs. Kevin had also warned us that Doi Inthanon was a favorite weekend escape for Bangkok visitors. 
So the crowded restaurant was not a surprise when we hopped around for a suitable table. Lunch was a buffet of traditional Thai dishes, some western options and an excellent salad bar for just $5. None of the cooked food was vegetarian, though! But we managed to assemble a satisfying salad from a selection of succulent produce - different types of crisp lettuces, carrots, bell peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes.

Royal Project Restaurant

The forest setting itself guaranteed an enjoyable meal at this restaurant. An adjacent coffee shop made espresso drinks from locally grown coffee beans. They also offered two surprising desserts - banoffee pie and strawberry panna cotta! So, of course we sampled the banoffee pie. Wow! Easily tastier than most of the ones we’ve had in England. See what I mean about not your typical day in the wilderness?

Continuing our drive higher up the mountain we came upon a series of colorful Hmong markets along the main road. We pulled over for a browse. Every stall, run by patient, polite, smiling Hmong vendors, carried the same stuff. Clothes, bags and scarves with traditional designs (not done by hand!). Specialty food products were displayed too, as well as irresistible fresh produce. Plump, bright yellow Cape gooseberries, unusual citrus, passion fruit, almonds, macadamias, and coffee beans. 

Our next stop was the park's most popular attraction close to the summit. Two towering stupas built in the early 20^thcentury to honor the king and queen. We strolled through the formal gardens surrounding them, along with the hordes of boisterous Bangkok visitors taking selfies. Our enthusiasm level was marginal. We were in the mountains and craved natural beauty. Back down to the street we went across and there a treat awaited us: a breathtaking panorama of valleys and mountains.

Doi Inthanon - view across street from the two famous stupas

We drove up to the summit, an elevation of 2,500 meters. The temperature was deliciously mild. Not the breezy, cool weather we'd expected. Thai people, we were told, came up here in January to see frost.

While we enjoyed the Doi Inthanon excursion, with its atypical wilderness offerings, we were disappointed to discover a lack of hiking trails. Apart from a 3km guided trail through jungle leaving at scheduled times, all other park attractions required driving.

Before exiting the park we saw another jaw-dropping waterfall. A short detour off the main road, followed by a brief hike on a paved pathway led to a viewpoint from where we could marvel at the wide, thundering sheets of water. How poetic to start and end the visit the same way!

To get to Suan Sook, our homestay, a few miles from the park's entrance, we drove through a sleepy village set among brilliant paddy fields. We arrived in the last minutes of daylight. On their upstairs balcony we sipped a welcome drink of icy fruit juice, relishing the tranquility in which we were immersed.

Back garden of our homestay outside Doi Inthanon

Our eyes feasted on the changing light over glimmering rice paddy pools fringed by mature mango trees, and framed by the Doi Inthanon Mountains. 

The owners, a Thai/New Zealand couple, are professional photographers. Their artistic talents are seen in the design of their contemporary styled house. Sleek cement and tile surfaces, with big windows and glass sliding doors.

For dinner they served us a home cooked meal of black rice, a Thai omelette, and stir-fried mushrooms, bell peppers, and soft tofu. Healthy, with a good balance of pronounced Thai flavors in each mouthful. Our drink was some mixture containing rum and honey.

The morning light over the mountains and paddy fields was a magical start to a new day. Over a healthy breakfast of muesli, home made bread and poached eggs on the terrace, Kevin chatted to us about living in the area as an ex-pat from New Zealand. They'd recently moved out of Chiang Mai into this bucolic village, living the life they'd always dreamed of.

We appreciated the very pleasant start to a day involving a four and a half hour drive to our next destination, Sukhothai, 250 km south of us. We had some anxiety about the road and traffic conditions. But it turned out to be surprisingly unchallenging. The roads were of high quality with little traffic. True, local drivers ignored speed limits. Bikers on the slow lane zipped past us. And when the occasional passing lane existed, it disappeared without warning. But, overall, nothing hair-raising!
Interestingly, the scenery on this drive was more dramatic than at Doi Inthanon. The road took us past several nature parks and along two mountain passes. The first one began with a steep climb involving numerous switchbacks and hairpin bends, followed by a steep descent. Much of the lush landscape was forested and unpopulated. Karsts, draped in thick vegetation, appeared frequently.

We kept seeing these black pots beside the road as we drove through villages

We drove past low-key villages where we saw modest homes and people engaged in various chores. We didn't see the grinding poverty typical of the developing world.

Around midday, after two hours of driving, we arrived at a particularly scenic area, characterized by a series of limestone cliffs called karsts, with shapely tops and draped in thick vegetation. A number of resorts lined the road. We searched in vain for a restaurant. Luckily, fruit purchases from the Hmong market the previous day saved us. We pulled off the road into a gap from where we could gawp at the karsts while gobbling Cape gooseberries and passion fruit.

Sukhothai

Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort, a mile outside the old town, was surrounded by lush countryside. Luxury was evident in the immaculate landscaping, an inviting pool area, and the lavish interior of our room.

Each room is an individual bungalow at Sawasdee Sukothai Resort

Our bungalow, right at the end, gave us the advantage of enjoying a large natural pond fringed by trees on the other side of the hotel property.

My morning view when I stepped out onto the porch of our bungalow

We were in Sukothai to see a UNESCO World Heritage site not easily accessible without a car. Due to the unbearable heat in this part of Thailand we waited until late in the day to visit the site. Sukhothai is a sprawling complex of the remains of an ancient kingdom dating back to the 13th century. It's surrounded by a moat and a wall in the shape of a rectangle. Within the walls, in a park like setting, there are ruins of palaces, temples and other structures.

Wat Mahathat, the park's centerpiece, was the largest temple of the Sukhothai kingdom. Its main chedi has a lotus bud shape, and is surrounded by eight smaller pagodas. Two rows of crumbling columns lead to a standing Buddha image.

Majestic trees, centuries old, among the ruins, competed for attention.

The many ancient trees all over the grounds were jaw dropping, not just in their beauty, but in so many other ways. Towering, with interesting trunks and shapely branches, they emitted an overwhelming sense of power.

I'm proud of this silhouette I managed to capture

As the sun sank lower and lower  behind the distant mountains, the ruins took on incredible hues. We wandered around enormous bell shaped stupas, Buddha statues and columns and it all felt unexpectedly peaceful and relaxing. It ought to be overrun by tourists and someday that may be the case.
In the park there's also a recent monument, built in 1975. It's a bronze statue of King Ramkhamheang the Great sitting on a throne. A head scratcher!

Sunday Night Market at Sukothai

It was Sunday. A night market was setting up beside the large central pond. A row of food stalls, a few crafts stalls, and music livened up the place. Twilight shadows on the water and the mountains silhouetted against an orange sky heightened the atmosphere. Wandering from stall to stall we watched how pad thai and other street food is made. Everything looked clean and fresh. But fish, chicken or other meat products went into every dish. So no street food for us. Darn! It was quite the perfect setting. In lieu of picnic tables two long, narrow picnic mats were spread on the grass beside the pond.

We nipped across the park to a nearby restaurant where we were served a delicious spicy noodle dish full of fresh, crunchy vegetables. We also tried out the local Sukhothai soup, a gingery broth with thin rice noodles and vegetables. A Chang beer, icy and refreshing, washed it all down.

It was Christmas Eve the next morning when we lapped up a feast of a breakfast in the sheltered outdoor dining area of Sawasdee. A view of fields and natural vegetation boosted our moods. Annoying Christmas music was playing. We'd traveled a long way to escape this! But the buffet spread more than made up for it. Pancakes, eggs, fried rice, stuffed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, fresh fruit (bananas, papaya, watermelon), cereals, toast, jams, real maple syrup. Strong coffee. I ignored my superego and tried a bit of everything. No regrets since it was all of stellar quality. As we were leaving the dining area we were given a beautiful gift box containing shortbread cookies.

What a shame to have to leave behind all this pampering!

Before heading out of Sukothai we visited more archeological ruins outside the walled section in the east and north zones. Wat Si Chum in the East Zone is famous for a giant Buddha image. On the approach through rows of ruined columns the image is visible through a vertical gap. Its enormity didn't hit me though until I got closer.

Wat Si Chum

Staggering, at 15 meters high and 11 meters wide!
The northern zone was a disappointment. Just piles of ruins spread out over a few acres. There wasn't much to see except for the first structure where a Khmer style temple design could be discerned.
A car made our Sukothai visit possible. Most visitors cycle to the zones outside the central part, but the heat is intense and the distances aren't short.
I should mention that a car also allowed us to drive to a 7 Eleven (they're all over Thailand) for good, strong take-out coffee.

Phitsanulok 

December 24

The spacious lobby of our hotel, the Grand Riverside, looked like a scene from a 1970's movie. But our 7th floor room was spacious, with a comfortable bed, and we had nice river views. We were spending the night in Phitsanulok because of its convenient train connection to Bangkok, where we were heading in the morning. This mid sized Thai town tends not to be on the usual tourist circuit. Most of the afternoon we hid from the heat in our air-conditioned room. But close to sunset we stepped out for a stroll along the river. The town was surprisingly full of life and activity.

The river in Phitsanulok at dusk

A paved cycle and pedestrian path runs along the river bank below street level, and it was full of joggers and walkers. The night bazaar and markets were setting up on the roads along the river. An alcohol free street food market operated from a line of attractive, newly built wooden sheds. It created a great atmosphere on our side of the river. Hoping to enjoy the setting with a drink we asked for a menu at one of the stalls. The beverages were all milk based! When daylight disappeared festive lights strung across the bridges and around the river illuminated the area.

For dinner we selected TripAdvisor 's number 2 restaurant, Krua Nannum, which was 500 meters from our hotel. The short walk turned out to be a challenging one. Heavy traffic made crossing streets close to impossible. Then, there was an empty lot along the river close to the restaurant occupied by a depressing number of stray dogs fouling up the air. As we past them one of them growled menacingly. I was sure it was about to attack us. But we marched on and minutes later arrived safely.
And what an incredibly attractive outdoor dining area! Tables were arranged along a colorfully tiled rectangular pool sporting a classical Greek sculpture fountain. Dense green shrubbery and vines draped the walls for a jungle theme. The place was full of locals but conversation was subdued. A talented singer with an appealing voice entertained us with familiar pop music from the late 60's and early 70's. In that ambience even a mediocre meal would've worked. It wasn't, though. Traditional Thai dishes here were divine. We loved the whole experience, especially because it was Christmas Eve and we were far, far away from the hype.

Thailand Vacation - Part One

December 2018

Thailand, in South East Asia, was bound to be interesting regardless of how we chose to spend our two weeks there. As we explored itineraries in preparation we aimed for passively absorbing the experience rather than cramming our days with activities. It was this mindset that steered us into spending a third of our time up north in Chiang Mai, a third of our time down south at a beach resort, and the other third mostly in Bangkok with a few days at significant sites between destinations. This sensible itinerary worked well to give us an appreciation for the country's history, culture, and beauty.

We saw shiny Buddha images everyday

We quickly learned that Buddha has been and is an integral aspect of Thai culture. Gilded, shiny images of every size, posture and expression exist in the country.

What impressed us immediately was how friendly, polite, and respectful the Thai people were. Everyone smiles and greets you with their palms together and a bow. It's incredibly touching. They never raise their voices. They display patience and an eagerness to accommodate your wishes.

Exploring a new destination inevitably means good, bad, and in-between experiences. While there was much to enthuse about, we witnessed unpleasantness too. Most disturbing to me were stray dogs. We saw them in every town loping forlornly through lanes, or sprawled on roads late in the day. Most of them looked fed, and for the most part it appeared that the locals respected these dogs as neighborhood inhabitants. But their sad faces brought my spirits down.


Here's the first of multiple posts.

December 16, 2018

Our vacation began as soon as we boarded a new A350-900 ultra long distance plane. I'd been dreading the 17 hour flight from LA to Singapore, but it turned out to be a remarkably pleasant and enjoyable journey. The plane is designed for two classes - Premier Economy and Business - and carries 150 passengers. Apart from attentive service and tasty meals for which Singapore Airlines is famous, other luxuries are provided. State of the art entertainment with a laptop size screen, noise cancelling Bose headphones, and a vast selection of movies and mini series. I managed to sleep reasonably well on seats that recline further than economy class, and when I woke up I binge watched The Handmaid's Tale. I noticed that the crew changed the lighting at appropriate times, and infused the air with pleasant scents at various times.

A six hour layover in Singapore provided us the opportunity to take the efficient Metro to Marina Bay. The city's iconic steel and glass skyscrapers had us gasping in awe. Especially the triple tower crowned by a surfboard shaped roof, and the lotus shaped arts and science center.

Singapore's Skyscrapers viewed from the Marina

We'd seen "Crazy Rich Asians" some months ago, so it was cool to see the movie's settings. Due to the oppressive tropical heat and humidity we decided against a stroll along the waterfront. We headed toward downtown, passing gleaming towers, and arrived at a complex with vast lunch options. Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, Malaysian, Italian. This was clearly food paradise and any random selection would have pleased us. On the second floor of the complex we settled on a place specializing in healthy bowls. You choose a grain base (quinoa, faro, rice), a protein (tofu), and two vegetables from a selection of steamed and grilled veggies. Delicious. We could eat well in Singapore. What else did it it have for us? Another time ...

This trip was about Thailand.

Chiang Mai (December 17)

Laid-back. Everyone says this about Thailand's second largest city. Yet, I was still surprised by the small town feel of Chiang Mai. Low-key restaurants and bars. Empty streets. Even the markets were mellow. This city, nevertheless, is a popular tourist destination.
It's so easy to settle into vacation mode here. You spend your days visiting historic temples set in tranquil gardens. For a break you can nip into one of its many inviting cafes for a caffeine fix guaranteed to satisfy you. And later, when you want to escape the heat, you can indulge in a cheap but expert massage at one of its numerous reputable massage places. The gastronomy scene is hot, and in addition to trendy global cuisine, cooking classes are easily available. And, because of Chiang Mai's location at the foot of a mountain range temperatures are mild, compared to the rest of Thailand.

The East Gate - most tourists concentrate here, both inside and outside the wall of the Old Town

There's something instantly charming about a walled city, surrounded by a moat, with four gates at each cardinal point to enter and exit.
Our hotel, the Green Tiger Guesthouse, was inside the wall, close to the north gate. Every morning when I looked out the window of our third floor room my eyes would fall on a large Buddha image seated on a pedestal in a temple garden. I'd sweep my eyes across roofs and temple spires, to the mountains that framed the city. What a gratifying view to wake up to!

View from our hotel room

Basing ourselves at this boutique hotel ensured we'd be well fed. The hotel restaurant served exclusively plant-based cuisine, emphasizing healthy, fresh, organic, sustainable ingredients. Breakfast every morning consisted of two generous courses along with strong coffee, toast and house made mango jam. The first course was muesli soaked in coconut milk, served with a fruit salad (pineapple, papaya, bananas, watermelon). The second course was either eggs prepared to order or pancakes with slices of banana.
After stuffing ourselves each morning, when we stepped outside, the air was always deliciously cool. Perfect for meandering through the old town.

Every morning as we set out to do tourist stuff we'd see locals going about their daily activities. Preparing meals in their open walled, modest homes. Hanging up laundry. Setting up food stalls. Chirpy uniformed kids heading to school. Monks in saffron robes. Bikers suddenly appearing and zipping past. Stores and cafés opening up. Juice stands setting up their mounds of fruit to make juices and shakes.

Stalls lining a big road inside the walled city

The old town, characterized by a blend of residential and commercial structures, felt local. The clusters of western tourists wandering in and out of the many, many temples around town seemed like a background activity.

Using the Lonely Planet guidebook, on our first morning we visited Wat Phra Singh, the city's most famous temple. Our introduction to Lanna style architecture. Steeply pitched multi-tiered roofs with gables curving in a V shape. Carved nagas (serpents). Brass with overlaid gold. Intricately designed faćades.

Wat Phra Singh

The interior of this temple, in red and gold,  was no less ornate. Two rows of impressive teak columns led to an elaborate altar with gilded Buddha images and inlaid mosaic tiles.

Interior of main temple at Wat Phra Singh

As we strolled along tidy garden paths to the rear we realized a temple is actually a complex consisting of multiple structures laid out in a specific Buddhist design.

Stupa at Wat Phra Singh

In the middle of the Wat Phra Singh complex, in the midst of meticulous gardens, there is a prominent bell shaped gilded stupa (or chedi) on an octagonal base. Surrounding it are smaller, gilded stupas. Enormous, shiny, shapely, it commanded attention and I felt like I needed to photograph it from every angle.
The gardens, with beds of bright flowers and healthy trees, delighted us, especially with the morning air still pleasant. Despite being in the middle of the city at the biggest tourist attraction, there were very few people around.


On the grounds of every temple there are lots of graceful trees. Close to every entrance there is a banyan tree decorated at the base with flower garlands and flags. It's the Bhodi tree. Buddha is thought to have meditated under such a tree, and this was how he acquired his philosophy.

Bhodi Tree - every temple complex has one

Everyday we popped into random temples. Each one created a visual impact. While they were all similar in layout and features, there was always some unique feature that set it apart from the others.

Statue of a Hindu god - unusual!

This temple was a reminder of the Khmer dynasty when Hinduism predominated.

Chiang Mai's second most famous temple is Wat Chedi Luang. Its most notable feature is a towering brick stupa in ruins.

Chedi Luang

Entry to temples is usually free, but for this one it cost foreigners 40 Baht ($1.20) to enter these grounds. Circling the enormous stupa perched on a base the height of a two storey house, I mulled about humankind's drive for creativity, and prevailing ideology providing a channel for this.

The Wat Chedi Luang complex is spread out on extensive park like grounds. Luckily, rows of trees provided shade, and I was able to wander past the large and active monks' quarters, and over to the main temple. At this fully intact, grandest of Chiang Mai's temples, I was surprised to find a thick cluster of worshippers and tourists. 

Fortune cookie level of aphorism

At every temple complex we saw what I thought were pretty shallow sayings on boards hanging on trees. Such venerable monuments surely deserved something more high minded!

By midday each day, the temperature soared. This was indeed the tropics. We could see it in the surrounding vegetation. Palm trees, huge epiphytes, fig trees, ginger plants, orchids, hibiscus, and plumeria. Their sweet scents infused the air. To cool off, we once sampled a passion fruit shake from a roadside fruit juice vendor.

When we planned this trip to Thailand we assumed we'd be pigging out on our favorite cuisine every single day. Turns out vegetarianism isn't a Thai thing. Dried shrimp or fish sauce go into every dish, so our options tended to be quite limited. Chiang Mai's dining scene definitely leaned toward healthy, vegetarian cuisine geared for western ex-pats and tourists. But much of this was standard western fare!
Thankfully, Reform Café, our hotel's restaurant, served up plant based Thai cuisine. Though, we discovered at our first dinner, we'd have to put up with timid spicing. Noodles with tofu and stir fried vegetables delivered on quality nutrients, textures, and colors, but not on fiery flavors. We did enjoy a mushroom dish made with a selection of local mushroom varieties, served with crunchy, green vegetables, slightly braised, and fluffy, fragrant Thai rice which was harvested just a few miles from Chiang Mai. This restaurant strove for quality combined with elegance. There's ambience too from a garden terrace seating with lots of greenery.

Khao Soi - A Chiang Mai soup

A regional specialty is a soup called khao soi. All restaurants in town served it, but again, the only reliable vegetarian version we could find was at Reform Café. Composed of egg noodles in a curried coconut cream broth, with crunchy vegetables it was spicy and utterly flavorful. Pickled vegetables and sliced shallots accompanied this soup which was garnished with fried  crispy noodles. I could eat this everyday!

One evening, for a change of atmosphere and a break from Asian food, we dined at an Italian restaurant. Their outdoor terrace faced a road on which tourists sauntered up and down. The air was still and the temperature just perfect. The Italian ex-pat owners served us an incredible wood fired pizza which we we scarfed down in minutes. Feeling the need to continue eating we grabbed a falafel  sandwich from the restaurant next door! Amazing how small the world has become! The same, familiar food so far from home.

Everyone raves about Thai street food and there was plenty of it especially right after sunset when night food markets opened up. Near our hotel, there was a very "authentic" street food market just outside the north gate. Great for a wander. Lots of atmosphere as the locals came out to socialize. But nothing for vegetarians.
The Night Bazaar, outside the moat, about a mile from the east gate, is where tourists go for street food. It was a pleasant 30 minute walk from our hotel and much to our delight we found the street food section to be a most welcoming space. A square lit up with strings of festive lights. Pleasant live music from a stage added atmosphere. It reminded me of a German Christmas market. 

Street Food at Night Bazaar

Lining the square were food stalls serving an international assortment of cuisine. High quality was clearly discernible. This market existed for tourists. Cocktails, beer, and wine were available at a few stands. Daryl chose pasta with pesto. I ordered tofu/tempeh curry and mushroom sushi rolls from a vegan food stand. A gin and tonic accompanied this fine meal. A fair number of tourists were around, but the square was anything but crowded.

Nor was the adjacent night bazaar where artisanal products and locally made clothes and textiles could be purchased from polite vendors. When we spotted a vendor doing those roll up Thai ice-creams on a frozen tray, we were ready for dessert. At 150 Baht ($5) they were not cheap! No wonder there was no line for this. In New York's Chinatown, where we had Thai roll ups for the first time, the line stretched down the block. And yet this one was so much tastier.

Daytime markets were entertaining too, especially because they catered to locals, not tourists.
I loved soaking up the exotic atmosphere at the Talat Warorot Market, a four storey building with stalls of apparel, jewelry, ethnic textiles and cosmetics on the upper floors. Fresh produce and all sorts of food products were enticingly displayed at ground level. The lack of bustle for a market this size was refreshing. No crowds, no noise and no pushiness. Adjacent to this building are more market stalls that spilled onto the sidewalks. Fruit vendors and a vibrant flower market. We were surprised to see baskets of strawberries. White, unripe ones were cheaper than the bright, red ones. We bought a bag of large, heavy passion fruit for $1.00 and a papaya ... because, who can resist? 

Talat Warorot

The next day we discovered another entertaining market at the South Gate, aka Chiang Mai Gate. It looked older, a bit shabby, but did not lack atmosphere. There was a big fish market section. We shot past busy vendors cleaning and gutting the catch of the day, and came to the produce and other miscellaneous stuff. A stroll through the aisles enlightened us on what everyday Thai people used in their kitchen and homes.

Massages are obligatory in Thailand. Best done in the heat of the day. At Lila Thai Massage, for just $8.00, a well trained ex-inmate pummeled and stretched all parts of my body, and an hour later I felt utterly renewed. They ask you to change into a loose shirt and pants. No oils were used, and the bed does not have a hole for your face. It's definitely a different experience! I loved the company's raison d'être. To transition women who've been incarcerated back into productive lives. And that, in itself, is a compelling reason to support them!

Our time in Chiang Mai was a good balance of tourist activity and free time for reading and relaxing. Tour companies urge you to visit elephant parks and places where you can pet tigers. We didn't want any role in animal exploitation. We didn't take cooking classes either, another very popular tourist activity. No regrets. We loved this start to exploring Thailand.