French Riviera (June)

We moved out of Villa Maye to base ourselves in the heart of old town Antibes. We planned to spend the week working on our projects. So it wasn't quite vacation week. I had fantasies of doing some serious writing during the day and in the evenings we'd go out and enjoy Antibe's vibrancy and beauty. When we saw our new place we immediately realized what a mistake it was to move out of Villa Maye. The new place was so tiny (appropriately named Le Petite Masion) and even though the owner had gone to great pains to decorate the place with interesting art and foreign acquisitions, it lacked the class and elegance we had enjoyed. The best feature was its location.

We were steps away from everything! The Antibes produce market, boulangeries, cafés, the ramparts, wine, everything we could want  - just around the corner from us. I loved going out to get my morning croissant - always still warm - every morning while Daryl made the coffee. We breakfasted out in the tiny upstairs terrace, grateful to be able to see blue sky above us.

Daryl was pretty disciplined about working on his research projects during the day. I, on the other hand, experimented with spending my days doing whatever the heck I felt like doing. During the school year my days are extremely structured and quite intense. There are always numerous unfinished tasks and many more that required planning. So having a week in which I could decide how to spend each moment was quite a luxury. Since we'd been to Antibes many times in the past, there weren't any urgent "tourist have-to-do's" either. I usually started each day at the market, marveling at the many cheeses, breathing in the aromas of the summer fruit, admiring the deep colors of the vegetables, sampling the many tapenades. I could never get enough of the place. I roamed the pedestrianized streets of the old town, stopped for gelato, considered purchasing provencal linen, and later in the day I'd rest up in our little apartment.

In the late afternoon Daryl and I would go to the beach and swim in the pleasantly cool water. I can never get over how sensational the experience is - not just the feel of the water, but also the beautiful views all around - the Alps in the distance, the curve of the coastline, the old stone fort, the masts of the yachts, the color of the calm Mediterranean.

After a swim, we'd shower, get dressed, and seek out a place to enjoy an aperitif. Old town Antibes buzzed with tourists and locals. Outdoor cafés were full of atmosphere. Sitting beside a fountain or in a big square full of other people enjoying aperitifs is one of the great joys of European cities.

Sipping a kir at the Royal Hotel Café right on the beach is my idea of sheer indulgence. Ambivalence tends to plague us during these occasions, though - glamor doesn't fit our self-images.

My friend, Venita, who lived in Nice for  a number of years and now lives in Paris, happened to be on the Cote d'Azur while I was there. We met up for lunch in Nice on a perfect summer Saturday. Over Chez Thereza'a socca at the Nice market on Cours Saleya, we had a good old chat about our lives in the last year. She was not her usual bubbly self, and confessed that she'd been out partying all night. After a full day of meetings in Monaco, she and her work colleagues had gone bar hopping all night. At each bar they shared a bottle of champagne and only returned to their hotel rooms at 5:00 A.M.! Talk about a life of glamor!!


Sauntering through the Old Town of Nice is most rewarding. It has a most distinctive character. I love its Belle Epoque architecture, its magnificent squares, its specialty cuisine, and of course, its huge outdoor market which draws crowds of people. I returned to Nice a few days later to immerse myself again in its quaintness. After meandering through the narrow, cobbled lanes of the center I braved the heat and walked up to the Colline du Chateau. From up at the top the views are sensational. The Baie de Anges sparkles in all its azure glory just like the tourist brochures declare. You can see the pebbly beach and the Promenade de Anglais stretching along the coast. As you follow the coastline you can see Cap d'Antibes protruding into the sea. Enormous hotels line the promenade, and the white dome of the Hotel Negresca juts out most prominently.

Cathedrale St. Reparaté

As you fight the crowds through the narrow streets of Nice you inevitably end up in front of this gorgeous baroque cathedral in a very busy square called Place Rosetti. I enjoyed a fine Nicoise meal beside a fountain in a quieter square to round off my Nice visit.

Tourists absolutely suffocate this town. I realized that this is because of the huge hotels along the Promenade de Anglais. Antibes and other neighboring Riviera towns don't have many hotels and can therefore maintain more of their charm. Driving in and out of Antibes, though, is no fun at all. The roads are jam-packed making it a real headache to get anywhere by car. The public transportation within the towns are fine, but intercity connections are infrequent and inefficient.

The sad truth is that the French Riviera is the vacation destination of just too many people. As a result it is overdeveloped, overcrowded, and the roads are always congested.

Sospel

We whiled away a few hours in this cute mountain hamlet called Sospel. Just an hour's drive from Nice along winding mountain roads, it feels utterly remote. With its mountain backdrop, interesting architecture spanning a few centuries, and the River Bévéra bisecting the town, Sospel is quite picturesque. After a stroll through the quiet streets, we had a leisurely lunch at a café beside the river.

We had studied the menus of all the restaurants along this stretch and were dismayed at the lack of vegetarian options. The place we settled for had homemade pasta with vegetables. Unfortunately the pasta was stodgy with no sauce to compensate. But we did enjoy the bread and wine. And the setting, of course.

On our last evening in Antibes we hiked around the cap one last time. The beauty, the temperature, the air, the smells, sounds, colors, light - I wished I could bottle it all up. Afterwards we found a spot beside the water to enjoy a picnic dinner. We have picnicked out here many times in the past, and it always feels just as magical as the first time. Across the turquoise water we could see Antibes town, and Nice in the distance. We munched the regional specialty - pissaladiére -and salad in contentment.

Two weeks was definitely the right amount of time to enjoy this area. We were ready to move on to the next destination.

Antibes in June

What is it that draws us again and again to this part of the French Riviera? We fantasize about setting down roots here, living out our retirement years immersed in the dreamworld of the South of France. I first visited this area twenty years ago when I backpacked around Europe. I chose Nice as a destination because my South African friend Venita lived there at the time. Venita, unfortunately, had been away in South Africa the week I'd arrived. But, thoughtful, sweet person that she is, she had arranged for her friends, all graduate students at the University of Nice, to look after me. In those four days, with Sandrine and Jean Francois as my guides, I wandered through the vibrant streets of Nice in a state of dazed stupor. I hadn't prepared myself for the Riviera's magic. How could I not have realized that this had been the home of Matisse and Chagall and F. Scott Fitzgerald? Famous places like Monaco and Cannes were here. Ever since that trip, the Cote d'Azur has been like a magnet to me. Naturally, Daryl has fallen under its spell too.

Typically we book a vacation rental somewhere close to Nice/Antibes for a week and spend each day exploring a different part of the area. Relatives usually stay with us and our days tend to be absurdly busy. So many exquisite towns, such a lot of breathtaking countryside, and of course lots of beaches, hikes, museums, the list goes on and on. When the week is over we heave regretful sighs, wishing we'd had more time to just hang out and soak up the beauty around us. So this time we decided to spend two weeks here, basing ourselves in Antibes.

On the last day of school - June 7 - I jetted across the Atlantic and arrived at the Nice Airport in the middle of the night. Daryl, who had arrived earlier in the day, was there to pick me up and take me to our accommodation. We stayed at Villa Maye, midway between Cap d'Antibes and Le Vieil Antibes (the old town). The owners live on the ground level and rent out the very tastefully decorated upstairs. We had spacious rooms, a well equipped kitchen, and a fantastic terrace for outdoor dining. The beach was a five minute walk from here.

Plage Salis was the closest beach to us. To reach the center of Antibes we walked along this beach and  up the ramparts. The views from here are fantastic. We could see the snowcapped Alps in the distance. Expensive yachts bob on the water and the old fort squats over at the other end like a giant punctuation mark.

In our first week we were surprised at the very mild temperatures. It was the second week of June and in the past we've always found the daytime temperatures a tad too high. The cooler days were perfect for walks down and around the cap and for exploring the town.

Troy and Jon were with us during our first week in Antibes. This was our opportunity to spend quality time together.

Our typical day went something like this:
Coffee and croissant on the terrace (Daryl nipped out to the bakery every morning); then a morning hike - mainly around the cap; back home for lunch - fruit, baguette, cheese; siesta; afternoon stroll or drive to some nearby attraction; back home for aperitifs with olives; long dinner which was, of course, accompanied by good French wine.

Trail along Cap d'Antibes

Exploring the cap was a highlight of that first week. Around the tip of the peninsula the coast is very rugged. A well defined trail, paved much of the way, makes it really easy to enjoy this most stunning part of Antibes. As you walk around you are treated to different views. The water changes from green to turquoise to blue. There are many hidden coves along the steep cliffs. Far away from traffic and modern sounds you hear just the lapping of the waves and rustling of leaves.

Jardin Thuret

On the way to the cap from Villa Maye there is a botanical garden called Jardin Thuret. This place was set up as an experiment to grow exotic trees. We strolled through these peaceful gardens and saw enormous cycads and eucalyptus. Walking along these roads on the cap you see some impressive estates. We were reminded of the homes in Montecito, with similar landscaping. Purple and red bougainvillea draped walls and other familiar Mediterranean vegetation grew in the pampered gardens.

In the early evening we sat in the garden sipping rosé. If the owners were around they would strike up a conversation with us in their limited English. They had lived abroad in various African and Latin American countries for many years and had lots of interesting stories to share.

We made meals in the spacious, modern kitchen with produce acquired at Antibes's famous bountiful market. White asparagus was still in season so it featured in quite a few meals. We splurged on some good red wines and a couple bottles of champagne since we were in a celebratory mood. I bought a selection of cheeses (mainly chèvre) and olives from the market. Crusty baguette was always on hand to sop up the sauces on our plates. Great food, divine wine, animated conversation, and the opera Simon Bocanegra in the background made these evenings quite special. Of course, sitting out in the terrace, the sun lingering until 9:00, and the temperature just perfect helped with the sought after ambience.

Fondation Maeght in St. Paul de Vence

We drove into St. Paul de Vence one afternoon to visit the Fondation Maeght. This village, like pretty much all Provencal villages, sits atop a hill and looks stunning as you approach it. The central cathedral sticks out from the middle and the rest of the medieval buildings huddle around the main square. Inside the walls the cobbled streets are pedestrianized. From here there are jaw dropping views of the Mediterranean.

St. Paul de Vence

The Fondation Maeght is a modern art museum just outside the village of St.Paul de Vence.

We enjoyed strolling through the gardens, marveling at the enormous Miro sculptures. The front garden displays Giacometti sculptures and primes you for the modern art inside the building designed by a Catalan architect (Josep Lluis Sert). There are works by Bonnard, Chagall, and Braque, as well as exhibitions of contemporary artists. We were a bit disappointed because a lot of the permanent displays had been put away to make room for some contemporary American artist that we didn't care for.
Still, we enjoyed our visit and it made going up to St. Paul de Vence a lot more meaningful.

Another excursion we went on was a drive to the Grand Canyon du Verdon.

Grand Canyon du Verdon

We drove inland via Grasse (famous for perfumes) through mountainous landscape and pastoral countryside to the Grand Canyon du Verdon. Along the way we stopped at a goat farm to buy cheese for a picnic lunch. We felt like travelers rather than tourists when we followed the hand made sign pointing the way to "Fromage". We followed a narrow, rutted road and came to an old stone farmhouse. A herd of goats were resting in a corral. A few ducks clucked at us and a shaggy dog barked in annoyance. The baldheaded farmer appeared and escorted us to a small refrigerated room where he kept his home-made cheeses. When we pointed to the two we wanted he insisted we taste them first. He flashed a bright smile at our expressions and carefully wrapped up our purchases - a fresh, creamy one and an aged, crumbly one. We also bought a dozen eggs. I mean who can resist fresh eggs? Back in the car we continued on our route, eyes peeled for the perfect picnic spot. This appeared pretty soon.

As if on cue we spotted an old stone bridge, with a gentle stream flowing underneath. It came complete with a parking spot, lots of pretty trees, and not a human around. Could we ask for anything more picturesque? We had brought baguette and fruit with us, so the chèvre balanced out our meal.

Back on the road after lunch we started to see glimpses of the gorge.

We stopped at the many viewpoints to take in the beauty and capture the magic on film.



This stunning gorge, about 700 meters deep, has steep limestone cliffs and the river down below is turquoise.

We went to the restaurant at the "balcony" and sat on the terrace. Over refreshingly chilled beer we took in the incredible beauty of the French Grand Canyon.

We spent a most enjoyable afternoon/evening in what I think is the most romantic town in the world: Villefranche sur mer. This tiny medieval hamlet is just a joy to stroll through. Much of it is perched on cliffs with the Mediterranean just down below. Orange and pink pastel hotels and restaurants line the waterfront. Bright bougainvillea spills down the banks and small boats anchored at the little harbor add to the charm.

After a stroll along the ramparts and under the medieval arches and through the town we sat beside the water and enjoyed aperitifs. Later we dined at one of the waterfront restaurants, seated at a table right at the water's edge. It was pure magic. As usual the temperature was perfect. Troy, Jon, Daryl, and I enjoyed a pasta dinner and chilled wine in this unforgettable setting. The food wasn't anything special, but the experience certainly was.

The week came to an end too quickly and Troy and Jon returned to England.

Vacation on the Mayan Riviera

In our two weeks in Mexico over winter vacation we learned practically nothing new about the country, its culture, or its people. After many years of turning up our noses at Americans who went to Mexican resorts just to have a good time, we became those Americans! Well, not quite. We'll never stay at big, ugly expensive hotel resorts. So, even though we were in that part of Mexico called the Mayan Riviera which seems to exist to provide a vacation destination for Americans and Canadians, we explored the area a fair amount and made friends with a lot of locals.
We had a really pleasant time here. The warm Caribbean Sea and white sandy beaches saturated our senses day and night. In our second week we stayed in a nature sanctuary called Sian Ka'an. We expected to see lots of wildlife - monkeys, cats, etc. - but, it turned out there were no trails we could take into the jungle.

Casa Redonda

We had a house on a fantastic beach and about a 100 meters to the west of us was a gorgeous lagoon, home to crocodiles. What a treat to have the beach right at our doorstep! The views of the sea from from all over the house were sensational.   We were surrounded by nature - birdsong, the  wind swaying the trees, the sounds of waves ...

Casa Redonda had a very interesting architectural design. The ceilings resembled those of thatched palapas. Impressive round wooden beams were supported the sloped ceilings. There were lots of windows to take advantage of the views and also to provide light.

We were however, disappointed with the very poorly equipped kitchen. We were a long way away from restaurants and needed to prepare our meals. There were no cutting knives, no can openers, no coffee maker. There were two cooking pans - one too small and the other too big. After the fantastic kitchen we had the first week, this came as a shock.


At night we could see billions of stars and identified many constellations. A full moon rose from the sea just after sunset on our first day and that was just so beautiful.

How did we spend our days? Beach walks, reading, writing, preparing meals, getting skilled at making margaritas, and taking the occasional drive into town. Oh, and of course, visiting Maya ruins!!

Not far from us was a restaurant and the office of CESIAK - the ecological organization operating out of this biosphere. All the buildings on the property are powered by wind and solar energy. There are windmills and solar panels at various locations.

This photo was taken from a boat when we went on a boat tour across the lagoon. It was sunset as we approached the boat landing.

mangrove swamps

Sian Ka'an is part jungle, part mangrove swamp, and part savannah. The boat took us across the lagoon and then we hiked along a boardwalk built over a mangrove swamp.

 The highlight of the boat tour was floating down the river for 5 km. We used the life-vest as a float and just glided down with the current. The cool water, fresh air, and beautiful scenery made this a pretty sensational experience.

We had a daily ritual - to get up right before sunrise and walk on the beach - barefoot on the soft, white sand. That time of day, when the earth lights up and the sun begins to make its appearance is just pure magic.

We always went into the water - so warm, so delicious - and got splashed by the waves. By the time we got back to the house we were dry again.

Fruit and Vegetable Stand

 The fruit and vegetable stands in the neighborhoods were pretty decently stocked. So we were in the tropics and had high expectations when it came to produce. After all, in the US it is so hard to find fruit and vegetables that do not come from Mexico! We found lots of mangoes, bananas, papayas, and bananas. The vegetables were limited, though. Apart from poblano chilis and some squashes, we had trouble finding anything exciting. Still, it was a lot of fun shopping where the locals - mostly of Maya descent - shopped.

This is a cenote. These deep pools found in caves are common in this part of Mexico. You can get on a zipline and dive into the pool for a thrill. We found this one in Vallodolid on the way back from the famous Chichin Itza.








Okay, so we did learn a little bit about the people indigenous to that area (Quintana Roo and the Yucatan), namely the Maya. We spent Christmas Day at the most famous Maya site - Chichin Itza. Mainly we learned that the Maya built enormous stone pyramids and were amazing astronomers, keeping accurate calendars. We also learned that when they met the Toltecs they adopted the practice of human sacrifices. Much evidence of this has been found at this site.

Chichin Itza was a thriving village when the conquistadors arrived in the New World. Then at some point the Maya just abandoned the place. In addition to the big pyramid there were other important structures, like this temple.

Details on a wall

There are 96 steps leading to the top from each side, giving a total of 364. With the top platform you get a total of 365. See what I mean by "amazing astronomers"?

El Castillo

After dinner one evening Daryl and I were lying on the hammock out on the terrace enjoying the balmy evening. Suddenly we detected movement on the wall and spotted this scorpion. We didn't know what to do so we just ignored it and went inside.

The next day the scorpion wasn't on the wall and we couldn't see it anywhere. Then at dusk we noticed it (or its sibling) inside the house! We panicked. Daryl mumbled something about a nest of scorpions. Where was that nest? Sri and Daryl used a plastic cup and plate to carefully move the scorpion out of the house and into the bushes. No more scorpions appeared after that!

We spent a rather fun afternoon in the town of Playa del Carmen. It's a reasonably small place, but very much a tourist town. The beaches here are as cute as the ones you see in holiday brochures. The town is vibrant and has lots and lots of fantastic restaurants. If we ever return to this area I think I'd like to be based in this delightful town.

The first thing I did as soon as we arrived in Playa del Carmen was to test the waters. Magnifique!!

 We had lunch at a very popular garden restaurant called La Cueva del Chango. With the tropical vegetation and iguanas you really feel you are in an exotic place. The food was every bit as satisfying as advertised. Sri loved the molé sauce over nopales enchiladas and I killed an excellent tomato based aztec soup. I liked the chunks of avocado thrown in.

This photo captures very well how I spent much of my days in Sian Ka'an. Despite the balmy temperatures and the sound of the sea Zadie Smith whisked me off to North London with some incredibly interesting characters. Her latest book, NW, is every bit as satisfying as we have come to expect from such an intelligent writer.
Daryl read Adam Gopnik's Paris to the Moon, which he particularly enjoyed having recently spent three months in Paris.

When we got tired of looking at the sea we strolled over to the lagoon. So serene, so beautiful, and what amazing sunsets. We hoped to see a crocodile make an appearance, but that didn't happen.

Can you see the trash on the beach? On our beach walks when we saw the beaches covered in litter we were mystified. We assumed it came from the locals and maybe even washed up from the surrounding resort towns. On our boat tour through the reserve our guide informed us that in fact the trash came from other countries!! Two factors - the reef and the ocean current - lead to trash from the west coast of Africa and from the coast of Europe being carried all the way to these shores. There are international efforts being made to clean up the beaches here.
Interestingly, every morning workers employed by hotels and resorts clean up the trash and seaweed on their beaches.

The Sian Ka'an Biosphere is close to the town of Tulum, famous for its Mayan ruins. The most remarkable feature of these ruins is the location - right above the sea. Just below is the best beach beach in the area. The turquoise water was just pure magic.

Tulum town - a few miles away from the sea - is also quite interesting and lively. It has very much of a local, Mexican ambience. A great assortment of restaurants and other shops liven up the main road.
The tourists stay in hotels that line the coast just south of the ruins. This part of the Maya Riviera used to have more of a hippie vibe in the past. But the area is rapidly becoming a bit like Cancun ...

Why do iguanas fascinate us? They are as common in the Tulum area as garden lizards back home.

We were sad to leave Sian Ka'an when the week was over. It really is a very special place. The infrastructure for visitors to explore the area is lacking - but, perhaps that's what makes the area all the more charming. Some day there'll be loads of tour campanies taking people to the reef on kayaks, and snorkeling tours, and four wheel drives through the jungle, etc. We were lucky to experience it before an inevitable change.

Winter Vacation 2012

We are in Puerto Moreles, Mexico, a small fishing village sandwiched between the party towns of Cancun and Playa Del Carmen. So we are enjoying laid-back days in a stunning setting.
Our condo on the beach is comfortable, spacious, and well equipped for a luxurious stay.

We can see the calm Caribbean stretching way out into the horizon. The beaches are white with fine, soft sand. No shells, though.

We watch the sun rise from our beds just after 6:00 AM. The first morning we took a walk on the beach to experience the awakening of the day. The temperature was perfect. The wind was a bit strong but it was warm and not in the least bit unpleasant. As the sun emerged more fully we dove into the sea. Wow, that was sensational.

A string of resort hotels line the beach, but they are pretty low key compared to the ones in Cancun and Playa Del Carmen.

Right near us there's a "lifestyle" resort called Desire!!


Puerto Morelos is a village and walking through its quiet, clean streets you encounter the friendly locals - mainly American and Canadian expats and Mexicans of Mayan descent.

Boats to ferry passengers to the reef

There's a fantastic craft market in the town center. Typical Mexican crafts like embroidered clothes, colorful blankets, and pottery tempt tourists.

It's a lot of fun strolling through the quiet streets of Puerto Moreles. There's a variety of restaurants, a used book store called Alma Libre, and a great cafe to get espresso drinks and people watch.


This leaning lighthouse was knocked over by a hurricane some years ago.

There's a new one built next to it, but this old one is supposed to amuse visitors to the town.







In addition to the warm, tropical weather we are enjoying the fruit - mangoes, papayas, pineapples, flavorful bananas, guavas, passionfruit, and other more exotic stuff.

We go shopping for produce in a neighborhood called Colonia. This area has an authentic, working class ambience with lots of fruit and vegetable stands. I got some plantains here earlier in the week which we fried up to complement our meal of tortillas, beans, guacamole, tomatilla salsa, and roasted poblano peppers.

In the evenings I make margaritas. I sought advice on the best tequila we could find and have been experimenting with different tropical fruit. Sipping these refreshing drinks on the balcony, with an amazing view and the soothing sounds of the sea is quite special.

Premi and I are having fun creating meals with the local ingredients. She has been making a lot of seafood.

Warm, freshly made tortillas are available at every store. We've been having them everyday. Daryl's complaining now, so I'm going to have to make a pasta meal tonight.

It's so easy to succumb to the peace  and beauty here and just read and relax all day. But we've forced ourselves out of our lethargy and went on a couple day trips. We spent most of a day in Playa Del Carmen - about 20 miles south of us. And of course, we spent a day visiting the famous Chichin Itza.

More about those excursions in another blog.