So Long, Sydney Sabbatical; Hello West Australia Vacation

December 2019

A weird first half of December brought to an end our Sydney Sabbatical. The historically devastating bushfires surrounding the city and across the state overshadowed everything. We frequently awoke to ominously hazy skies and on some days grey smoke blanketed the city. Apocalyptic was the word of the month.

Orange sun through smoky sky in Sydney

Nevertheless summer and festive celebrations were full on in the city center. At the Rocks, the Queen Victoria Center and Martin Place there were elaborate Christmas displays and festivities.

Giant, ornately decorated tree inside Queen Victoria Building

Spot the Christmas tree on the Town Hall

Every evening after dinner we ambled around the harbor where restaurants were abuzz with party clad employees of the CBD's big corporations. The first December Friday was particularly bizarre with the juxtaposition of a gloomy smoke choked city and vivacious office parties held at popular restaurants.

Our last Sydney Opera House event was the Sydney Symphony Orchestra's rendition of Mahler's Klagende Lied, a cantata we'd never encountered before. The dynamic female conductor, Simone Young, (music director of Hamburg State Opera) exhibited boundless energy. Mahler was 20 when he composed this piece, based on a fairy tale. It failed to win the award that motivated the composition and he spent years revising the original. In this 3 movement  piece, there was a large orchestra, soloists, a chorus and an offstage band toward the end. The result was an impressive, moving piece of music with a beautiful combination of orchestral music and singing. So glad we splurged on good seats which allowed us to be moved emotionally by facial expressions.

Our last Sunday walk was a sort of repeat of a walk we'd done back in October, but in reverse, with an additional detour. We took a ferry to Taronga Zoo, then hopped on a bus to Balmoral Beach. The weather was ideal, not too warm, and the air delightfully smoke free. From the beach we headed into a forested section, up steep stairs over a suspended walkway and ended at Middle Head, a detour we hadn't done before.

Sunday walk from Balmoral Beach to Middle Head on the North Shore of Sydney

Here, there were World War 1 monuments, gun encasements and tunnels identical to the ones we'd seen in Bradley's Head back in October. It confused the heck out of me. To Daryl's amusement I insisted we'd been there before though we hadn't! The views of the city skyline and Harbor Bridge were gorgeous. Before ending the walk at Taronga Zoo we munched our last picnic lunch with harbor views from the North Shore - the usual avocado sandwich crammed with salad veggies.

There were two noteworthy new restaurants we tried out. One was the very popular Thai Pothong on King Street in Newtown, an inner west suburb close to the University of Sydney with an alternative Berkeley-esque vibe. All along King Street restaurants proudly display vegan menus. A vegan 'chicken' satay for starters signaled high quality. The kee-mow noodles and tofu jungle curry dish that followed were boldly seasoned, with a generous amount of crunchy vegetables. What a shame to have discovered this excellent restuarant at the end of our time in this city!

Yellow, an upmarket vegan restaurant in Potts Point, had been on our list of "must do" dining spots since September, and thankfully we finally tried it out. It's one of the Metropole fine dining locations, an indulgence to celebrate a successful Sabbatical. The 3 course meal was exquisite - inventive, seasonal, beautifully presented and the service was in keeping with what you'd expect at these establishments.

Emptying out closets and drawers at our Cove apartment was a joyless act. There was so much we'd miss. Most of all, that view of a dynamic, modern city from the living room glass wall: green and yellow ferries departing and arriving at Circular Quay; ceaseless traffic across the Harbor Bridge; cyclists, joggers, walkers on Observation Hill; tourists milling along Opera Quays; a giant cruise ship drifting out of the harbor, and above all, the famous and beautiful Sydney Harbor Bridge. I'll miss popping into Coles for groceries, weaving through elegantly dressed office workers emerging from Wynyard Station and rushing to work. We'll miss hopping down our street, Harrington, to the Munich Bar for Happy Hour where a pint of locally brewed pale ale went for just $5.00 and paired perfectly with a warm, doughy pretzel.

Our favorite Happy Hour place - the Munich bar down our street at the Rocks where a pint of Pale Ale is just $5.00

So much else to add to the list of things we'll miss ...
Luckily, the 2nd half of December was packed with exciting plans through clever planning.

Perth and West Australia

In WA you are instantly hit by a relaxed pace, an absence of density, a calmness. You can't help being aware of its remoteness. Yet a definite 21st century pervades the metropolitan areas. Perth and its sprawling suburbs are concentrated along a long stretch of coast. Our days were inevitably centered around beaches of powdery white sand and water, a mesmerizing turquoise.

Pristne, peaceful beach north of Perth

On our first morning in Burns Beach, a northern Perth suburb where Pam and family live, Daryl and I awoke at 5:00 A.M. for a beach walk. The sun was already peeking above the horizon when we crossed the street over to the park from where we caught our first vistas of the Indian Ocean. Stepping down the steps to the beach we saw a lady sitting lotus style meditating. The few locals we past smiled and greeted us - something Sydneysiders avoid doing (!). By 6:15 the sun was too fierce to continue our walk. That was when we realized beach walks should be done late in the day. In the days that followed we headed out around 5:00 PM when the temperatures were deliciously mild.
One late afternoon, instead of our usual walk south toward Perth City where we encounter friendly families walking their dogs, we headed north, which was more desolate, pristine, and as beautiful as those beaches you see in glamorous travel magazines. We had been misinformed that the walking track connecting Burns Beach to Mindara Marina 2 kilometers away, had been completed. It wasn't - so when the track ended at a wall we stepped down to the beach. The soft sand covered in shells, nature sounds and the sweet air at a perfect temperature tempted us on ... until we reached Mindarie Marina two hours later.

Pigging out at Mindarie Marina after a 2 hour beach walk

There, we collapsed at a bar terrace and rewarded ourselves with a jug of local beer and a platter of carb heavy tapas - quesadilla, arancini, battered courgettes, sweet potato fries. Pam ferried us back home.

Other than beach walks, Perth city center provided a day of fun entertainment. The summer heat though, was unbearable. Luckily, at the airconditioned Art Gallery of West Australia we could enjoy the paintings of early 20th century Australian artists. The modest collection of 18th and 19th century European art was satisfying too. Later in the day we headed out to the gleaming new Elizabeth Quay waterfront development. Over a chilled locally brewed IPA at a bar terrace we admired the eye catching new bridge, the sleek contemporary architecture and a giant metal sculpture of concentric ovals.

Perth City

Perth's economy cycles through booms and busts and the new Elizabeth Quay development was a result of a boom a decade ago, only recently finished.

King's Park, above the city center, provided hours of outdoor joy on a different day. Here, landscaped botanic gardens lead seamlessly to natural bush, with meandering and raised walkways and bridges over ravines. Sensational views force you to stop and gape.

Baobab tree in King's Park, trucked here from northern territories

View of Perth's skyline from King's Park

Double helix ladder, King's Park, Perth

We spent an afternoon in Fremantle (known as Freo by the locals), a port town at the mouth of the Swan River. The lively craft and food markets in a historic Victorian building were great for a meander. Then, out on the streets we strolled to the fishing harbor, passing colonial era buildings, and many cafes and bars with an alternative vibe. From the boardwalk, past vibrant cafe terraces and boats, we hopped onto the walking trail which led to 19th century stone remnants. We managed a quick glance at the famous Femantle Prison, a stone structure with round towers, before the drive back north along the coast road. We past bustling Scarborough, famous for its stunning beaches, then Hillary's, a cute harbor and beach suburb, before reaching the quieter, laidback Joondalup municipality where Burns Beach is located.

Down South to Wine Country

We joined Pam and family for 4 nights in the Margaret River Valley, a 3 hour drive south of Perth. Our Airbnb, a rather spacious beachside house, was in Dunsborough at Geographe Bay, where the water, just across the road from us, was warm and shallow, and the beaches wide, with soft sand. The region is famous for its high quality, highly structured wines, but it has plenty of natural beauty too due to an interesting coastline - rocky, curvy with inlets and bays, and many small, utterly beautiful beaches.

Rocky Coastline, Margaret River Valley

The emerald colors and fine, white sand attain perfection at Meelup Beach. Unfortunately, on the afternoon we appeared on this jaw-dropping beach, a great white shark had just been spotted and everyone was ordered out of the water.

Meelup Beach

What torture it was to stare at the water and not be able to plunge into it!

The Margaret River Valley, despite all its offerings for the perfect vacation, felt remarkably remote, the lack of crowds enhancing every joyful experience. Wine tasting leading to a purchase at Stella Bella and another at Vasse Felix, sampling oils and dips at the Olive Farm, stopping to gawp at a herd of kangaroos, lunch on the terrace of the Berry Farm where ingredients came right from the gardens around us, the stupendous boysenberry tart for dessert forever imprinted in our minds.

It's still free to taste wines at the Margaret River Valley!

Christmas

Christmas atmosphere was of course constantly in the background during our 2 weeks in West Australia. This year we yielded to tradition since we were at the home of close family in Burns Beach, Perth. There were presents under a small, artificial tree in the living room for all of us. So after breakfast we took turns to open up gifts that mainly reflected thoughtfulness rather than extravagance. Books, clothes, magazines - that sort of thing. Pam and I prepared a big lunch centered around a roast turkey and vegan duck with salad sides, and for dessert, a trifle featuring fresh summer fruit. In the late afternoon - you guessed it - we headed to the beach for a walk and a splash in the water.

We returned to Sydney for New Year's Eve. We stayed at Max's place and from his Darling Island Road apartment balcony we were in the midst of the celebratory Sydney atmosphere. Though, I must say that it was distinctly toned down this year. With the terrible bushfires still raging and in some areas, worse than ever, people were obviously conflicted about "celebrating". The parks around the apartment building filled up with people eager to see the fireworks across the Harbour Bridge. For the first moments of 2020 we sipped champagne and smiled at the dazzling display of fireworks lighting up with Sydney sky. The media pitched it as a celebration of the Australian spirit!

Crowd gathering to see fireworks on New Year's Eve

Fireworks over the Harbor Bridge at midnight to welcome 2020

A tough spirit we became familiar with during our 4 months in this country. I'll drink to that.

Sydney Diary - November 2019

About to Spring into Summer Down Under

A uniquely Australian phenomenon, the Melbourne Cup, ushered in the month of November. All through October restaurants and bars had been advertising specials for this Nov 5 event. We learned it was the biggest, most significant horse race in the country. The city center on the day of the Melbourne Cup took on a celebratory atmosphere with crowded bars and clusters of fashionably dressed people all over the place.

The Rocks set up for Melbourne Cup

The merriment was short-lived, however. For much of November we awoke to a hazy, smoke blanketed city due to bushfires ravaging much of New South Wales. How disheartening it is to witness the same drought fueled phenomena we've had to endure back home in California. Air pollution levels in Sydney on some days were comparable to Beijing.

The dismal atmosphere here seemed to foreshadow the Cave Fire in Santa Barbara days before Thanksgiving. From thousands of miles away we scrutinized the news, rattled to learn that our area was in a mandatory evacuation zone as heavy winds pushed the rapidly growing fire toward the city. Thankfully, a storm system ended the nightmare. On Thanksgiving morning there was snow on the the fire footprint. Fire and Ice! And our incredible firemen ensured that no structures were damaged. Phew!

In other depressing news, my 80 year old mum is unable to obtain a tourist visa to join us in Australia for the holidays. The reason? A computer glitch at the high commission in Canberra mixed her file up with an Australian citizen with the same first name as hers! We've been struggling with this since July and it's unclear when the problem will be resolved.

Now for something more uplifting. Jacarandas. A November emblem for Sydney. For weeks now showy purple enrobed jacarandas have brightened up the city, heralding the festive and summer season.

Early November Jacarandas burst into bloom on University of Sydney campus

With the sun lingering past dinner time I love going on evening walks. Observatory Hill, below our building on the other side of the Harbor Bridge freeway, provides fantastic views of the waterfront, the Anzac Bridge, and on smoke free evenings the Blue Mountains. It's the perfect spot to watch the sun sink into the horizon.

Sunset from Observatory Hill

Evening strolls around The Rocks, Miller's Point, and Circular Quay are also quite magical, emanating from the buzz of diners on cafe terraces, the changing light on the water and high rises, and the mild temperatures. I don't even mind the increasing presence of festive decorations, including massive Christmas trees, because it's the arrival of summer that dominates the mood.

Hunter Valley Weekend

Early on the 2nd Sunday morning of November we drove out of the city in search of bush scenery on our way to the famous Hunter Valley wine region. After over 2 months in the city we finally saw kangaroos (aren't they synonymous with Australia?) at the Australia Walkabout Wildlife Park in Calga. In this small nature center, an hour's drive from Sydney, we petted the free range kangaroos as wallabies and emus circled around us. We saw other local fauna in enclosures - wombats, a koala, echidnas, dingoes, colorful birds and pythons.

G'day mate! Australia Walkabout Wildlife Park

We drove along a quiet country road passing farm stands with spring produce offerings. Inevitably, we stopped at a farm stand where we picked up a box of nectarines for a mere A$6. Intermittent gum tree woods were a welcome distraction from the otherwise dry landscape on our drive. In the Hunter Valley it took a while before we saw an actual vineyard. At the first wine country town, Wollombi., we followed signs for Undercliff Winery. When we did a tasting of their organic wines we congratulated our instincts and made our first wine purchase. Another first was sampling a sparkling cold shiraz.

Sculpture on the ground of Undercliff Winery, Wollombi

There was a sculpture exhibit on the grounds of this small, boutique winery. It added interest to our picnic lunch which we munched from a patch of shade. Among the unusual works by respected artists was a life size horse made from rusting metal scraps.

We stayed at the elegant but dated Chateau Elan, just outside the town of Pokolbin. The resort is set on a golf course. Our room had glass sliding doors that opened to an outside terrace and sprawling gardens.

Dinner at Amanda's at the Edge, a quick drive from our hotel, showcased the region's culinary sophistication. They offered a separate vegetarian menu with inventive offerings borrowing from all over the globe. We shared a starter of dumplings. For mains, silky gnocchi on a tomato based sauce accompanied by roast squash and a mushroom dish featuring king oysters.

Gourmet Mushroom Main at Amanda's on the Edge

A local shiraz from a winery called Emma's Village paired really well with the meal.

View from dinner table at Amanda's on the Edge

The setting of this excellent restaurant was unbeatable, with a view of vineyards and woods. We could make out kangaroos hopping on the field and disappearing into the trees.

Kangaroos were definitely a theme on this trip. In the morning when we pulled open the drapes at Chateau Elan, there was a family just outside our room.

Mornin' to you too, maties! Outside our hotel room at Chateau Elan

We indulged in the hotel's hearty breakfast, seated at an outside table with a view of the golf course and the eucalyptus woods lining the periphery. From the incredible buffet spread we selected poached eggs, toast, fresh fruit, pastries, juice and strong coffee.

On the drive back to Sydney we hoped to stop for a hike in Bouddi National Park on the Central Coast, an area with a dramatic coastline of inlets and harbors. But fires from further north had rapidly spread south causing road closures. When we returned to the city we learned just how serious the situation was. The sky was blanketed with smoke from numerous bushfires all over the state. In fact, the situation was described as catastrophic. We'd escaped the Hunter just in time!

Culture

Our November entertainment calendar was packed. Here, in Sydney, the calibre of talent is of the standard we expect in London and New York. So, of course, we are obliged to take full advantage of this opportunity.

Live Theatre

On the first day of the month we went to a stand up comedy show at the Studio theatre inside the Sydney Opera House. This live recording of a popular television show called "Just for Laughs Australia" was hosted by Nick Cody. An hour of laughing hysterically at talented, self-deprecating comedians was a fine way to end the work week. Interestingly, the subject matter steered away from politics and religion. Conforming to the TV channel guidelines, perhaps? I was disappointed that there was only one female - with an androgynous appearance - her gender apparent only when she started talking.

We saw 3 outstanding plays this month. Cosí, a joint Melbourne Sydney project, is set in an asylum in the 1970's. A young professor is commissioned to do a play with a group of patients, each expertly exhibiting their idiosyncrasies. A patient, a lover of opera, succeeds in persuading the professor to perform Cosí Fan Tutte. In this comedy the supremely talented cast deal with all the predictable problems that the premise promises. Themes of the era are woven into the story. Mental health treatment methods (electroshock therapy), the Vietnam War, drugs, free love, attitudes toward communism, conflicts with patriots toward innocent war victims. A thoroughly engaging two and a half hours.

Bell Shakespeare, a national touring theatre company, took on Much Ado About Nothing this year. We are believers in seeing at least one Shakespeare play a year so we dutifully trotted off to the Drama Theatre of the Opera House with our 2 for 1 ticket purchase offered every Tuesday at 5:00 PM. It became evident early in the play - featuring a multiracial cast - that the current "Me too" zeitgeist heavily influenced the directing. The production bent farcical to preserve the Bard's poetry, while updating gender roles for today. Such tinkering exposed the absurdity of Claudio's character. How could you sympathize with someone who showed no grief when he was told that his bride had died? In the altered ending, Hero doesn't just forgive and forget but slaps Claudio across the face and distances herself from him on the stage. Would she take him back, we wondered, until we reminded ourselves that the play started with the ending. I'm excited to see stage directors breaking out of the mold to update Shakespeare's problematic plays.

Every Thursday at 9:00 AM Sydney Theatre Co. releases $20 tickets for purchase at their box office which is a 15 minute walk from our apartment. That was how we ended up going to see The Beauty Queen of Leenane at the Roslyn Packer Theatre in Walsh Bay. This disturbing dark comedy had a terribly depressing storyline yet it was a must see if only to witness the 4 actors in a gripping performance. From the moment the revolving stage spun from a stone cottage exterior to a suffocating interior we, the audience, were fully transported into the desperate lives of these Irish villagers.

Stage setting of BeautyQueen of Leenane

Gasps, laughter, breath intakes from the audience showed what a deeply felt performance it was. The playwright, Martin McDonagh who wrote the scripts for "In Bruges" and "Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri", took us to uncomfortable places as he portrayed the bitterness of a 40 year old virgin daughter stuck in the role of looking after her demanding mother. After the play on our walk back home we were too stunned by two hours of cruel comedy to even articulate our feelings about the play. What was the purpose of such a play, we both wondered days later when we were able to disentangle the story from the performance.

Classical Concerts

We attended two excellent classical concerts this month, both at the Sydney Opera House. In an all Russian themed evening, the Sydney Symphony Orchestra performed two achingly beautiful pieces- Tchaikovsky's Piano Concerto 1 and Rachmaninoff Symphony 2.

Sydney Symphony Orchestra at the Sydney Opera House

On a Sunday afternoon, the touring Australia Chamber Orchestra (expanded for a symphony) performed Brahms Double Concerto and Dvorak's Symphony 8. A pair of delightful pieces that we enjoyed from seats behind the orchestra facing the enthusiastic conductor. We were two rows up from the orchestra pit, with close views of the instruments. The performance was recorded and streamed and we had to have had a visible presence on video! Dvorak's 8th, a lyrical, accessible 4 movement piece, was new to us and it was interesting to read in the program notes that it bore similarities to Beethoven's 6th and Mahler's 4th.

Because of the 2 for 1 Tuesday at 5:00 PM offer, we found ourselves at a ballet at the Opera House. Sylvia, performed by the Australian Ballet Company with music composed by Léo Delibes, transported us to the ancient world of Greek Mythology. Luckily we prepared ourselves for this unfamiliar ballet by listening to the music a few times and studying the complicated, convoluted plot.

Ballet at the Opera House

In the fast paced stage action choreographed to playful, merry music, you had to know the story to identify the characters, their motives, and their actions. Sylvia is a warrior nymph in Artemis's army and her story of falling in love with a shepherd is intertwined with the love interests and antics of the various gods and goddesses. The bond between Artemis and Orion enrages Apollo, with treacherous consequences. There's a third love affair - between Pschye and Eros. There's Sylvia's abduction then rescue; there's the involvement of Zeus, Aphrodite, other minor gods, nymphs, fawns, and mortals. So much action, no time for thoughts to wander! The scintillating performance was enhanced by fabulously costumed dancers and impressive staging. The back wall depicted in bold, dramatic colors the various settings: Hades, Mt Olympus, pastoral countryside. What a beautiful evening of entertainment!

Restaurants

Around the Opera House the numerous cafes and bars have become more crowded and atmospheric with the arrival of Spring. The weekend evening scene on the cafe terraces with swankily clad hipsters lingering over drinks with their buddies is a phenomenon. Inevitably, we were drawn into this vibrant setting a few times. Once, at the more intimate Portside Restaurant outside the Drama Theatre, the venue of our evening event, we enjoyed a fine meal. A smoky eggplant dip with crackers to start, followed by a pasta dish seasoned with truffle sauce and ending with our first pavlova of this trip. From the restaurant's upper level terrace on the west wing of the building, the harbor views were even better than the crowded places on the lower concourse.
Admittedly, the vibe at the Opera Bar lured us over on other evenings for drinks and/or dessert.

Another Friday evening "hot spot" in the city is Barangaroo, the new Darling Harbor waterfront extension. Since the area is also a hop, skip and a jump from us we soaked up the vibe on a blustery but warm evening. On the terrace of Anason, a Turkish Restaurant, we sampled some unusual, and artfully presented dishes. Lentil kofta, a seeded pretzel shaped bread, and exotically spiced roasted cauliflower and cabbage leaves on kebab skewers.

One of our favorite Sydney restaurants that we'd discovered years ago is  Bhodi in the Park, which serves tasty vegan Chinese cuisine. The perfect opportunity to enjoy their dim sum lunch arose when my friend Wendy visited Sydney with her sister-in-law in mid November. We gorged on dumplings, sticky rice stuffed with shitake, stuffed buns, and fried sesame balls for dessert. Delicious food matched by the the beautiful setting in the Cook and Phillip Park.

When Daryl and I went to Bhodi for a Saturday dinner it was the vegan Peking duck served with hoisin sauce in pancakes that wowed us. The dessert was exquisite too. Vegan key lime pie with a scoop of ice cream and accompanied by berries in a fruity sauce.

One evening, after a visiting mathematician at the University of Sydney gave a talk meant for a general audience but became too specialized too quickly, Stephan, Daryl and I trekked over to The Green Mushroom, a vegan Indian restaurant on Glebe Point Road. Here we encountered the most appalling service ever. Due to a series of mistakes the food arrived over an hour after the waiter took our order. Though the eggplant, okra and vegan lamb roganjosh dishes were divine, with perfect spicing and a delightful freshness, the memory of this experience would be forever marred by our foul moods.

The vegan/vegetarian scene in Sydney is delightfully prominent. We indulged in fine vegan dining at the trendy Paperbark Restaurant in the suburb of Waterloo. The 4 course set menu we selected came with artfully presented dishes, all composed of premium vegetables and seasonings, with careful attention to textures and flavors. But as with high end fine dining establishments, the portions were minuscule. We supplemented with an order of their homemade sourdough bread (heavenly) and at the end, after the hefty bill, we convinced ourselves we'd had plenty to eat!

Weekend Walks

On a mild Saturday morning when we strolled across the Harbor Bridge we saw familiar sights from a different perspective. Even the cruise ships were interesting to look at from above. At the other end of the bridge we ambled along the atmospheric streets of Kirribilli, debating whether to treat ourselves to a breakfast pastry from one of the many bustling cafes.

Across the Harbor Bridge, city view from Kirribilli

We spent a Sunday morning at the Royal National Park. Getting there involved an hour long train ride to the beach suburb of Cronulla, then a short ferry ride to Bundeena, a built up town at the entrance to the park. From he wharf we cut through the neighborhood and arrived at a deserted sandy beach. It felt like we'd arrived at some paradisical island. We continued on a dirt trail along the shore where the coastline became more rugged and rocky. We descended to a rocky beach and crossed over enormous flat boulders as we explored the shore.

Haven't seen so many shells on a beach in decades!

It was low tide, allowing us to examine the many rock pools with abundant of sea life. Patches of sandy beach were covered with seashells.

Deserted, peaceful shore at Royal National Park

We were now close to Jibbon head, where the land comes to a point, and around the point is the open ocean. We could see the heavy surf lashing vertical cliffs. We would have loved to continue on the coast track but the unshaded trail and high temperatures turned us off.

On the last Sunday of November we took a ferry to the west and alighted at Meadowbank where we picked up the Parramatta River track. While the area lacked the dramatic harbor scenery of our previous Sunday walks, we enjoyed the mangrove forests along the riverbank. Apart from the many cyclists on the cycle path that follows the river for many miles, the area was relaxing and restorative. If you kept heading west you'd arrive at the Blue Mountains. In fact, there's a walking track from Sydney's outer western suburbs all the way to the mountains. Something to consider on a future trip.

We couldn't help feeling a little sad that these Sunday hikes were about to come to an end. The final month of the year has descended.

Sydney Diary - October 2019

Spring in the City

The  switch to Daylight Saving Time on the first Saturday of the month marked the start of spring. Mild temperatures, comfortable, though still chilly enough for sweaters lingered until days ago when the thermometer shot up. Now we're in sandals and at night even a light comforter gets kicked off.

Sydney now has that familiarity where it feels like home. And at times I wish it were home. This easy, livable city is clean, safe, orderly, dynamic and relatively crime free. It has an efficient mass transit system. It's cosmopolitan and sophisticated with no shortage of decent entertainment and an exciting multinational gastronomy scene. On top of all that it is blessed with a generous helping of natural beauty due to its harbor setting. We're so lucky to be able to drink in harbor views right from our apartment. Often, in the evening we glimpse a cruise ship drifting out of the harbor.

Sydney at night

While this antipodean city feels so familiar we've barely scratched its surface. I still discover new stores, bakeries, bars, etc. in my neighborhood. And so we're assured of never getting bored or tired during our time here.

Cousins

At various times this month I spent time with relatives I'd known during my South African childhood but rarely saw in adulthood. My cousins Silvie and Ray emigrated with their families to Sydney in the early '90's. Silvie hosted a birthday party for her sister Letchie, who was visiting from South Africa. Daryl and I took a train to the home of Silvie and Dan in Minchinbury, an outer west suburb. We spent a fun, fun evening with three siblings and their families. We danced and sang to music from the '70's. Music we'd grown up with, the lyrics locked in our memories. Bollywood hits featured too.

Photo pose before Letchie blows out candle

That was one delicious birthday cake layered with fresh mango slices, passionfruit pulp and fresh cream.

Nelson Bay

Two weeks later (Oct 21 - 24) I joined my 3 cousins (and their spouses) on a trip to Nelson Bay on the Port Stephens harbor. We stayed in an Airbnb vacation rental - a huge house, fully equipped - in a quiet neighborhood above the town center. The quiet, laid-back town was full of hotels, restaurants, and beach and water activities eagerly awaiting Sydney-siders seeking escape. Everyday I strolled along the paved walking/cycling track - a former bridle way - that hugged the coastline. It was a beautiful walk with views of little bays, bleached, powdery beaches, and eucalyptus woods. Once I saw a flock of black swans which looked stunning against the turquoise water.

Black swans and picturesque beaches in Nelson Bay

Birdlife out here is quite a phenomenon. Sea gulls and pelicans close to the water. And at the vacation rental my sleep broke every morning to bird sounds. Not quite a chorus - more like an orchestra warming up before a symphony performance. When I opened the blinds I'd see a kookaburra on the telephone wire. Colorful lorikeets fluttering on branches of a tree. Crested pigeons perched on a tree. Sulphur crested cockatoos darting into and out of another tree. Mynahs flitting about. And irate magpies shouting at the world.

Evenings with the cousins and their spouses were highly entertaining and relaxing. The guys went out on (unsuccessful) fishing expeditions during the day. When they returned we'd sit around the dining table with drinks and nibbles, and when darkness fell progressed to big dinners. Biryani, pungent vegetable curries and rotis - all prepared in advance in Sydney to free up time on this vacation. Conversations were lively, often pivoting to the past. The colorful days of childhood and youth in South Africa. Apartheid South Africa. We reminisced about our grandparents, laughing uproariously at their quirks. We all shared memories of Wesselsnek, the coal mining village where our grandparents raised our mothers. We sang songs from our childhood, including Tamil songs, the fragments we could dredge up.

We ended our time together with a boat tour to see bottlenose dolphins. It was a blissful two hours of gazing at clear, turquoise water, rich with marine life.

Bottle nose dolphins in Port Stephens

The dolphins put on a magnificent show for us, providing excellent photo opportunities. Beautiful images to bring to an end a memorable mini vacation in Nelson Bay.

Sunday Coastal Walks

Daryl and I continued our Sunday tradition of packing a picnic lunch and hopping on a ferry to a coastal suburb to pick up a walking trail. Our top favorite walk so far was the one we did on the first October Sunday. It almost counted as a bush walk since the trail got us into eucalyptus forests and fern meadows.

Gum tree woods and fern meadows on the hike to Balmoral Beach

He watches us eat our lunch

From Taronga Zoo on the north shore we headed to Athol Bay to begin the 6.5 km hike. The trail followed the coast, providing delightful views across to the Sydney skyline and the Harbor Bridge. Then when we entered the bush, nature sounds and scents drowned out the city. A discordant but uplifting symphony of birdsong interrupted by the familiar "laughter" of kookaburras. It was a three day weekend and a good proportion of the locals were on the trail too. Small, hidden beaches along the walk were a draw judging by how populated they were. At times we were sandwiched between scrawny gum trees and shrubbery adorned with fragrant spring blooms.







The cackling families of kookaburras on gum trees were tricky to photograph. Then, at a beachside park while we munched our sandwiches, a lone kookaburra was perched above us on the telephone wire.

The trail continued to Bradley's head, an interesting spot with military monuments and panoramic views of north and south heads and city skyline.

North Head and South Head of Port Jackson (Sydney Harbor)

Beyond Bradley's head we entered more bush, interrupted by little bays and secluded beaches. Conveniently benches all along the way allowed for rests in scenic spots. The trail ended at bustling Balmoral Beach, a built up area with a wide, paved promenade and a cluster of cafes and shops. Lots of shade on this beach thanks to a row of giant Moreton fig trees, including the biggest one I'd ever seen.

The biggest Moreton Bay Fig tree I've ever seen!

Another satisfying Sunday walk was the 5km Federation Cliff Trail starting at Dover Heights. It was another cloudless spring day when we ferried over to Watsons Bay for this walk. First we followed the South Head loop to Hornby Lighthouse. Directly across from us we took in stunning views of north head. The views of the city skyline and the Bridge were also terrific. No wonder there were so many coach tour groups out there.
The heat was building up as we headed to Gap Park, onto Old South Coast Road and then to a timber walkway above a series of sheer cliffs. Magical. Blue and green hues of the ocean. Frenetic surf lashing sandstone cliff walls. Rock layers depicting thousands of years of geologic history.

Federation Cliff Trail

Leaving behind the tour groups we arrived in Vaucluse, a neighborhood of palatial homes. Now we had to do some steep climbing in unshaded heat. My energy fizzled. Our goal of ending at Bondi Beach felt absurdly ambitious. The pool back home beckoned.

Fish engraving in sandstone from a thousand years ago

When we awoke to mild weather on the Sunday before Halloween we came up with the bold plan of doing the entire Manly Scenic Walk all the way to the spit. But Manly turned out to be summery hot. Though we were constantly immersed in the beautiful scenery for which the walk is famous, the heat diluted our enjoyment. At Dobroyd Head the views were especially thrilling. Now that we had hiked much of the coastal track we understood the area's geography. At Grotto Point we took a look at the Aboriginal rock engravings of fish dating back a thousand years.

Beyond that we detoured through bush to the Grotto Point lighthouse. I was terrified of encountering native fauna on the narrow trail. But the view of an inlet in the harbor was worth it and our avocado sandwiches tasted like gourmet fare. We didn't make it all the way to the spit this time.

The Culinary Scene

This city is paradise for the epicure. At William Blue Dining, a culinary school near our apartment building, we lapped up a delicious 3 course meal.

Spring has sprung, say those veggies! First course at William Blue Dining

Spring veggies with poached egg; risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and parmesan; panna cotta and dark chocolate mousse for dessert. The bottle of Shiraz we selected was light and pleasant and we actually finished the entire bottle. While the chefs appeared ready for the world of discerning diners, our waitress, a brand new student, seemed visibly nervous. She came to take our order before bringing us the menus! This was a training establishment after all!

On a recent Saturday evening the vegan menu of Alibi Restaurant lured us to Woolloomooloo, on the other side of the Royal Botanical Gardens. At 6:00 PM the park was utterly magnificent for a stroll. What an incredible variety of majestic trees! Arriving at the Ovolo Hotel my heart sank when I realized that the restaurant was tucked within a converted shed like structure. No windows looking out to the water surrounding the building. Sure, the décor was elegant, but it felt more suitable for a chilly winter night. We chose the 8 course tasting menu because the Asian thrust made everything sound divine. First came a slice of house made sourdough bread - warm and delicious with an almond coconut cream spread. Then things slid downhill. Earnest attempts at adventurous flavors were evident - the stuffed pillows featured horseradish and miso - but stodgy textures were the issue. A chargrilled broccoli topped with satay sauce for a main course would've appealed more had we not been stuffed when it arrived. The wine pairing disappointed too, but thankfully two inventive desserts redeemed the meal. A vegan banoffee pie and a fruity suspension in a jelly like cube tasted heavenly.

A meal we adored and badly want to repeat was one we had at Malabar South Indian Restaurant in Darlinghurst. It was Diwali and we hoped for a festive atmosphere. But, apart from a separate Diwali Specials menu, there was no other sign of this major Hindu holiday. When we tasted the samosa starter, a baked filo triangle stuffed with greens, it was clear that a talented chef was in charge. Vegan butter chicken along with baby okra displayed big flavors and pleasant textures. Judging from the packed, atmospheric interior, this restaurant had earned quite a reputation. A 30 minute walk back home was just what we needed after stuffing our bellies. As we cut through Hyde Park we came upon many costumed people in party mood. Both Halloween and Oktoberfest were observed in a big way.

Happy hour is a biggie in Sydney. $5 wine and beer offered everywhere. The Munich bar at the bottom of our street has excellent beer which we enjoyed a few times in an Oktoberfest atmosphere. Friday evenings at Barangaroo are great for party atmosphere and views. And opposite our building the Italian restaurant Rosetta serves delicious woodfired pizzas and decent beer and wine at half price on their terrace. We met up there with our Santa Barbara friends, Ken and Janis, who were in town in early October. However, the music they played to usher in a 3 day weekend made conversation impossible. We got together with Ken and Janis again at an Indonesian restaurant, Salt and Palm, on Glebe Point Road right next to their Airbnb. Here, we sampled traditional rice platters with accompaniments of peanuts, tempeh, and chillies washed down with orange gin and tonic. Ken and Janis were flying the next morning to Cairns for adventures in the Daintree Forest and the Great Barrier Reef.

The best meal of the month would have to be the one we had with Stephan and Brangwyn at their home in Randwick, near Coogee Beach. A beet dip with pita wafers to start. And for mains, stuffed zucchini and savory rice topped with pomegranate seeds straight out of an Ottolenghi cookbook. Dessert was strawberry crumble. Stephan and Brangwyn have a passion for gourmet cooking. But it wasn't just the food that made the evening special. We love this family. Their sons Jasper and Fabian provided pre-dinner entertainment. Fabian got out his magic set and performed some tricks. Jasper showed off his math knowledge, especially his special interest in Pi. After they turned in, our adult conversation hit a variety of interesting topics.

Entertainment

We are definitely taking advantage of the city's many entertainment options, especially because the venues are an easy walk from us. We saw the movie 'The Eulogy' a fascinating documentary about Geoffrey Tozer, an Australian pianist. It examined why the Sydney and Melbourne Symphony Orchestras shunned him. Internal politics? A tormented soul, pampered and idolized by his mother, a music teacher. A prior Australian prime minister, Paul Keating, in a eulogy lamented Tozer's unrecognized talent, and this was the impetus for the documentary.

We saw a hilarious live theatre production called The Wharf Revue at Roslyn Packer Theatre near Walsh Bay. This musical political satire was similar to the Capital Steps in the US. Major political events and figures were skewered in witty sketches. The digs at local politics were lost on us, but we learned more about Scott Morrison (ScoMo) and his conservative views. He ran on an anti immigration platform feeding into the current racist climate. He also believes that "god" has chosen him for the job. The Hamilton songs ridiculing Boris and Trump had us in stitches. There was a touching tribute to Bob Hawke, a respected Labor Party prime minister who died this year.
Aung San Suu Kyi appeared, defending her policies, as her humanitarian quotes  from her jail time flashed on the screen. Then to the tune of Don't Cry for me Argentina she justified the persecution of the Rohingya people. This part was a bit unsettling. All in all, a fantastic night of entertainment!

At the Sydney Opera House we enjoyed an evening of Bruckner's Symphony 7 conducted by Donald Runnicles. Seated just a few rows from the stage we were able to fully appreciate this expansive piece (similar to a Mahler symphony).

Sydney Symphony taking curtain bows after Bruckner Symphony No 7

We returned to Sydney's iconic monument for the opera "Il Viaggio A Reims". We'd never heard of this Rossini work before, then we found out that it is rarely performed. In fact it had been composed in the mid 19th century for the coronation of a king and then disappeared, until the 1980's when it was reconstructed. The music was wonderful. The production creative. Farcical themes open up wide possibilities. The director set most of the opera in an art gallery. Characters from famous artwork come alive and walk across the stage. Lots of laughs and silliness. No plot to speak of.

Curtain bows for Il Viaggio A Reims

Appropriately, on this Halloween holiday, the actors were costumed! Not an opera I'll return to, but glad for the experience in the Joan Sutherland Theatre.

The end of October marked the halfway point of our time in Sydney.

Sydney Diary September 2019

Tail end of Winter

It's been a month since that 14 hour flight out of LA on the Dreamliner, an extraordinary feat of engineering. When that giant chunk of metal taxied then gracefully glided up into the air over the Pacific Ocean I couldn't help marveling at the accomplishments of my species. Of course I was flying economy but I felt privileged. My brain doesn't come anyway near those humans endowed with the intelligence that advances our civilization. At the same time it is equally astonishing that our species is responsible for the leadership mess in the US and the UK, not to mention Australia!

Sydney is our home this autumn. Spring, to be accurate. Daryl has taken up duties as a visiting professor at the Maths Institute attached to the University of Sydney. I'm working on a book (just so I can sound pretentious!).

September in Sydney was similar to March in Santa Barbara. Chilly days and summery days interspersed among mostly mild days. Some blustery days in the first half of the month and a couple of rainy days. Each day the sun rises a little earlier and sets a little later. The avenue of plane trees lining the road below our apartment were bare when we arrived, and are now clad in bright green foliage. Around the city most of the trees (many graceful mature ficus varieties) are evergreen and provide no hints of the season.

Our apartment building - The Cove

We had a bit of a rocky start on our arrival. The Glebe apartment we'd booked many months ago turned out to be unsuitable for many reasons. Below street level, it had a chilly, gloomy interior. But it was the presence of mold around the doors and windows that made it intolerable.

Ten anxiety filled days after our arrival we packed our things and moved into a high rise called The Cove, designed by a famous local architect. Our suburb is The Rocks, and the Opera House is a quick walk from us. Through the floor to ceiling living room window we have views of the Harbor Bridge and Circular Quay. We have access to a rooftop terrace, a gym, pool, sauna and steam-room. Safe to imagine our days here border on luxurious.

On Day 1 we walked along the waterfront for a quick look at Sydney's sights. This is a side view of the Opera House from across the Museum of Contemporary Art

What have we been up to in our free time?

On the cultural front we attended two events at the Sydney Opera House. Before the start of every performance, respects are paid to the First Nations. The Gadigal clan, who originally lived on the land occupied by the Opera House, is honored.
We enjoyed a gripping performance of Holst's "The Planets" by the Sydney Symphony Orchestra under the baton of Vladimir Ashkenazy (now in his early 80's). This was preceded by a heartwarming piano concerto by a Russian composer we hadn't heard of before. Probably because Nikolai Medtner was Rachmaninoff's contemporary. Alexei Volodin, a Russian pianist, did a phenomenal job of making the piece accessible!

Our second Opera House event was a finely tuned performance of Tom Stoppard's 1982 play "The Real Thing" at the more intimate Drama Theatre.

Cast of The Real Thing taking their final bows

In the hands of an outstanding cast, the play's probing questions on love and writing kept us stimulated and captivated. Not to mention laughing hard at the many witty lines. So glad we got to see this and even better, I managed to get a discount coupon from the Welcome committee and saved $60 on 2 tickets!
I must add that the walk back from the Opera House to our apartment is always entertaining. The outdoor bars buzz with folks lingering over drinks. All along the quays you see clusters of the city's cosmopolitan residents and visitors, basking in the lit up skyscrapers and the Harbor Bridge, outlined in bright colors these past evenings.

Sydney Harbor Bridge at night

A city that feels so alive energizes me.

Sydney's culinary scene is excitingly diverse. A week after our arrival in Sydney it was my birthday. For dinner Max, Daryl and I celebrated at Manjits, which promised fine Indian cuisine with a Darling Harbor view. It delivered on both fronts. A robustly spiced roasted eggplant dish and a rich kofta dish were divine. Max gave his grilled fish dish a definite nod of approval. The last time he and I were together on my birthday was way back during our student days in Durban. He took charge of the wine, choosing a crisp Chardonnay (currently trendy varietal in Australia) which worked pretty well with our meal.

A couple weeks later, at Mercado, one of a collection of upmarket Angel Place restaurants, we indulged in superb Mediterranean fare. Starter share plates of creamy hummus with housemade pita bread (resembling thick roti) and a polenta flavored with parmesan were faultless. As were the delicate pumpkin ravioli and smoky wood-fired broccoli. The wine list had looked intimidating with its mainly highly priced European selections. As a rule we go for local so we chose a Hunter Valley Shiraz which at A$52 was one of the cheaper options. It turned out to be an excellent choice, lots of structure with a great balance of dryness and fruitiness.

Jounieh, at the Harbor Bridge end of the newly developed waterfront precinct called Barangaroo, was another Mediterranean restaurant we tried and loved for its polished creativity. Their homemade flatbread came piping hot and was instantly addictive. We used it to scoop up three yummy dips - a smoky babaganoush, good hummus and labneh. The other starter dish we shared, called kabees, consisted of marinated olives and pickled turnips and chillies. For mains we had an usual green falafel accompanied by chargrilled eggplant. The terrace with pleasant water views was a delightful setting, tempting us to prolong the meal with dessert. We ordered baklava, prepared to be underwhelmed. To our surprise the larger than expected block consisted of delicate layers of rectangles separated by something creamier and less sweet than honey. It more closely resembled a high quality mille feuille.

At Indu, another high end restaurant at Angel Place, the idea of modern Sri Lankan village food so intrigued us we decided to go for the multi course vegetarian feast set menu.  Course after delicious course arrived - slices of warm cumin bread with a creamy spread; a roasted eggplant and bell pepper mini-casserole, spelt dosa stuffed with curried potatoes and crispy kale; pumpkin curry, dhal, rice, paratha, beetroot raita, grilled brussels sprouts. An impossible amount of food. All of it meeting the high expectations of food snobs. The desserts borrowed heavily from the west - a cube of carrot cake and dark chocolate mousse with orange sorbet. Thankfully we were allowed to bring back leftovers in a to go box.

Just to be clear, we eat home cooked meals at least 5 nights a week. Produce from Paddy's market and from weekend farmer's markets provide the inspiration. As spring approaches produce shopping is increasingly pleasurable. Asparagus is in season now. Isn't that cool?

To balance our restaurant indulgences we spent hours on walking trails every weekend. Coastal tracks abound along Sydney's curvaceous harbor and coastline. During our first week in the city, when the air still held a winter chill, the Glebe Foreshore track provided an easy escape from our gloomy apartment. Within two minutes of shutting the door I found myself on a paved path which followed the Wattle Bay shoreline, under the Anzac Bridge, past several parks bordered by graceful, mature trees. City skyline views across the bay were splendid.

Anzac Bridge from Glebe Foreshore

Further along, the high rises disappeared and the horizon at sunset was delightful. I loved the neighborhood atmosphere on this walk late in the day when I merged with joggers, residents walking their dogs, cyclists, fitness buddies, and others. On the Sunday before leaving Glebe for our new digs Daryl and I walked all the way to the end of the track and arrived at the Tramsheds. A collection of restaurants and gourmet food stores occupy this converted tram depot. In the central court a food market with several stalls of produce and artisanal foods conferred wonderful atmosphere. We felt excited, anticipating more Sydney discoveries in the months ahead.

We knew we had to do the Bondi to Coogee trail while the weather was still cool. Arriving by bus at Sydney's most famous surf beach on a calm Saturday afternoon we were surprised at the tame surf.

View of Bondi from the Bondi to Coogee Track

The sandy beach and sapphire ocean were as dazzling as they appear in movies. Even though we'd done this walk multiple times in past visits, we still gasped in awe at the sheer limestone cliffs, city views and little beaches along the path to Coogee.

The next day we boarded a ferry for Manly, the other popular beach area. Harbor, bridge and Opera House views from the water never get stale. With so many options to choose from in Manly we went in the opposite direction to the crowd. Unlike the previous day's hike which was entirely in an urban setting, this walk had more variety.

Cliff on Manly walk 

A water dragon in Manly

We quickly found ourselves in the bush, then in a posh neighborhood, then a secluded beach hidden in vegetation. We followed the trail upwards, greeted periodically by giant lizards (water dragons?) and arrived at the top of a steep cliff.

In various places signs were displayed, urging you to call this number before considering stepping off the cliff. The walk led downwards to the popular Shelly Beach before looping across the Corso back to the harbor.

On a different weekend we walked 8 km from Rose Bay to Watson's Bay and saw new parts of Sydney. The ferry ride to Rose Bay provided a different angle from which to view the city skyline and Harbor Bridge. The start of the walk took us to a built up neighborhood of gorgeous mansions before returning us to the coast where we entered the Hermitage Foreshore Walk.

City Skyline from Hermitage Foreshore Walk

Much of it was on timber boardwalk through the bush with views of small beaches and bays. We saw and heard lots of birds, including a family of kookaburras.

Crested pigeon? On Hermitage Foreshore Walk

At times we caught glimpses of the city skyline across the bay. The walk continued through parks and neighborhood before we reached the ferry dock at Watson's Bay three hours later.

Could a Sunday get any better? Guess what! Back at Circular Quay we boarded a ferry to Pyrmont Bay to check out the wine festival in Pirrama Park. Wineries from Orange, a region 200 miles inland, beyond the Blue Mountains, were showing off their cool climate 2018 wines. On this sunny day, sitting on the grass in front of a live band, the bay in the background, any wine would have tasted fine. But the pinot noir I tried was impressive. When Max joined us - his apartment was a five minute walk away - we tried a couple of Chardonnays. Unexciting. I tried a red blend from a vegan, organic vendor. I liked it. It tasted young, but held great promise at maturity.

Wine Festival, Pirrama Park

The wine scene in Australia is dynamic and full of pleasant surprises. At the moment we're exploring wines from New South Wales but in a non methodical manner. Don't ask us for advice!

September has been a busy month. And now we're looking at our already crowded October calendar!