Why Kampot?

January 11, 2015
Kampot, Cambodia

Despite concerted efforts to avoid adventure on this trip, choosing a destination not on the regular tourist circuit made that impossible. A long, long ride on a clunky bus, its window curtains caked and drooping with years of dust, filled me with misgivings about spending two nights in Kampot. Should I have chosen the popular beach resort Sihanoukville instead? Was it really full of rowdy youngsters partying and drinking? Kampot was supposed to show me a different Cambodia. It didn't have a world famous monument, and it wasn't a major city. Here, in this tranquil little town, I would see and experience something more authentic. As we rode further and further into remoter parts I felt increasingly doubtful about my choice.

But when a tuk tuk dropped us off at the Riverside Hotel where this postcard view greeted us, my spirits lifted. I knew I could sit on the hotel terrace forever (ok that's an exaggeration!) enjoying the glimmering water and a romantic Old Bridge framed by the gentle Elephant Mountains. After a siesta, forced on by the oppressive heat, I strolled along the wide treelined promenade toward the New Bridge. Reminders that Kampot was once the French getaway place could be seen in the decaying colonial buildings along the street parallel to the river, and in the design of the promenade and its parks. It was early evening and the riverside buzzed with activity. Kids romped around on the playgrounds, families picnicked on the riverbank, and tourists sauntered along taking photos of the sky that was turning golden from an imminent sunset. Wooden fishing boats bobbed on the calm water and I could see nets being cast. The Old Bridge looked like a movie prop in the dying light. As the sun hovered over the horizon I was back at my hotel, on the terrace, with a chilled beer. Despite noisy bikers whizzing past, a peaceful atmosphere settled over the area.

We organized a full day tour ($17) of the Kampot countryside through the official tourist information. A tuk-tuk picked us up right after breakfast and in the company of a young French couple and the driver, who was also a very informed guide, we had a most interesting day.

First, we stopped at salt fields where we could see how salt from the sea ended up on our tables. Quite a labor intensive process with people lugging huge piles of salt in baskets into storage facilities.

Riding into deeper countryside, we past traditional villages that seemed to belong to a different era.

In what seemed like the remote countryside we came to a cave carved into limestone mountains. First, we had to walk across a makeshift bridge - essentially two logs thrown across a canal. Seriously? There was no other way? Well, then! Amazing what you can make yourself do when you have no choice. After a short trail we had to climb up 203 stairs before reaching the cave. At the entrance we saw the ruins of Phnom Chhnok Temple, an ancient looking temple, though I didn't care to find out when it was built. Then, in the dark, cavernous interior we could make out some interesting shapes, most famously an elephant shaped rock. Outside the cave, our guide pointed to a dark and scary chasm. He told us that Pol Pot had ordered people to be thrown into that chasm. We shuddered, remembering the reasons people could be punished. An inability to perform a physical task, an expression interpreted as impertinence, any hint of being an intellectual.

Back in the tuk-tuk we rode along a canal which was used to irrigate the green fields of vegetables we could see around us. Quick growing vegetables like morning glory, onions, and peanuts were planted in the dry season. We came to what appeared to be a huge lake and learned it was a dam commissioned by Pol Pot. The Khmer Rouge wanted to turn the nation into laborers and came up with huge projects to achieve this goal. Much of the Kampot countryside that we were exploring had been Khmer Rouge territory.

Kampot pepper is highly sought after by the world's top chefs. We visited a pepper farm to learn about this significant crop. Landmines had to be cleared from this area before it could be turned into a pepper farm. I expected towering pepper trees like the ones we have at home that produce red (inedible) peppercorns. Instead I learned that black peppercorn plants are shrubs that grow around a support structure. When the pepper is still green, the Khmer people throw small clusters into their curries and stews for a delicate flavor.

A stop in Kep - famous for blue crab - brought me to the shockingly polluted and overfished Gulf of Thailand. The craft market was pretty entertaining and colorful with its variety of tropical fruit, sea shell crafts, and sizzling seafood aromatically spiced and cooked on open grills. And for good measure, a group of Buddhist monks in bright orange robes sat beside a mound of coconuts.
Lunch was at a popular seafood restaurant, famous for the local blue crab. They very kindly made me a tofu vegetable stir-fry which featured every vegetable they could lay their hands on. Pretty decent - cooked just enough to preserve a good crunch and color - though not as flavorful as I'd come to expect in Cambodia. From our table we could see bamboo baskets floating in the water and further away small fishing boats.

I strolled to the end the pier in Kep for a view of Rabbit island. I'd intended to take a boat out there, but the intense heat put me off. The beaches sounded great, but the lack of shade would have killed me.

From Kep we went back inland through more desolate countryside until we came to a little fishing village.

Here we saw rickety, wooden structures, that were probably homes, and a scary pier that looked like it was about to crumble up. Looking at the aging wooden boats you get a sense of how hard these folks must work to feed themselves and have a shelter.

We returned to town to freshen up for the next phase of the tour.

Together with 8 other passengers I sailed in an old wooden boat on the Kampot River at sunset. They gave us each a beverage - I chose a beer - and off we went under the Old Bridge. The air had cooled down to a much more tolerable temperature. We floated past mangrove swamps and cute wooden bungalows perched on the riverbank overlooking the water and the Elephant Mountains across. Away from the city, we were immersed in nature as the sun slunk behind the mountains, turning the horizon crimson.

With the setting sun reflected in the rippling river, we were lulled into a state of bliss. I understood then why Kampot had to be on a Cambodia travel itinerary. After sunset we continued down the river, silenced by the beauty and a lingering euphoria. Darkness had been gathering, but it was only when we came to trees covered with fireflies, that I realized every trace of daylight had disappeared. The driver pulled up against the bank so we could fully appreciate these intriguing insects. There were thousands of them - emitting the only light out there - miles and miles away from the city. Then, as we sailed back toward Kampot we started to hear splashing noises all around us. Pleasant splashes that made you smile, reminding you of nature's generosity. Shining a flashlight onto the water, we marveled at the jumping fish all around the boat. They were large - a foot long -and what made it all the more thrilling was that they were so easy to see. These delightful creatures kept us entertained on the long boat ride back in the pitch dark.

We ended the day at the most popular restaurant in town - Rikitikitava. Entering the all wooden structure, you feel that perfect jungle vibe aimed at pleasing tourists pretending to be adventurous travelers. I really wanted to have one last Khmer curry since it was my last night in Cambodia. So I was quite happy to see that they served a wide range of traditional cuisine. Well, it turned out to be an absolutely satisfying meal. The curry, with colorful vegetables and tofu, was so perfectly seasoned it didn't need the Kampot pepper provided at every table. No wonder this restaurant was so highly rated!


Strolling back to my hotel in the balmy evening, I thought what a perfect day it had been. And what a great way to end my travels in Cambodia. Tomorrow ... a new country ...

Phnom Penh

A seven hour bus journey on the Mekong Express - a rather spiffy air-conditioned coach - got us from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Snacks, wet wipes, and bottled water were provided by a smiling attendant, easing the tedium of riding through flat, dry landscape and poor roads. Cows and water buffalo grazed on fields that would turn lush once the rainy season resumed. Halfway through the jouney we stopped for a restroom and food break in a little town by a bustling market. Among the tropical fruit and coconuts were big pots of fried insects. I bought a cut up pineapple and a bunch of bananas to sustain me for the next 3 hours.

Well Phnom Penh was not the chaotic, soulless city I'd imagined. With its 21st century aspirations, a French past, and an exotic East Asian culture, this city was unexpectedly entertaining. Plus, its location at the confluence of two major rivers - the Mekong and the Tonle Sap - allows you to take some scenic photos to post on Facebook and make people envious. I found the constant contrasts a little jolting. On the clogged streets people drive Lexuses and Hyundais, and then you cross to a potholed lane and you see cyclists wheeling baskets of fruit or smoldering grills. An imposing Colonial building will catch your eye, then at its shady base there are street people from the countryside (no work in the dry season) in makeshift structures cooking on open fires or trying to sell their wares.

Arriving in Phnom Penh after Siem Reap you are immediately hit by the rawness of a metropolis. Noisy, heavy car traffic, bustling, and dirty. But we immediately encountered helpful locals who got us a tuk-tuk to ferry us to our hotel. We drove through the unappealing center with its shabby buildings and clogged roads and ceaseless honking and arrived at the Riverfront area which took on a completely different character. We noticed ornate buildings - traditional Khmer style and French colonial - and beautiful parks.

H Hotel

We stayed at H Hotel, a small, über trendy, boutique hotel, near the Royal Palace. With a black and white color scheme and smooth, matt stone surfaces, my two days here felt very luxurious. The layout of the room was a bit unusual with a granite headboard away from the wall allowing for an office area with a desk and work surface between the bed and wall. An indulgent shower in the granite tiled bathroom with trapezoid shower stall and expensive soaps contrasted starkly with the street scene outside where spirited cart vendors awaited customers. Breakfast (notably a perfect croissant served with intensely flavorful passionfruit jam) was served in an open dining area with tables around the sparkling pool. Excellent coffee - espresso steamed milk - came in fine porcelain.

FCC Building

On our first evening we saw a romantically lit up colonial style building with columns and arches. It turned out to be the FCC Building, where journalists converged during the Vietnam War. Their outdoor bar in a lovely garden with low tables and candlelight was the perfect setting for a glass of excellent French Viognier. A bowl of roasted peanuts arrived at our table and we thought we could sit there forever. This rather pleasant experience set the tone for a most enjoyable two days in this city.

Friends Restaurant is famous for training street kids to cook and serve gourmet meals. An eclectic menu allowed us to take a break from tradional curries and rice. Zucchini fritters for starters and a leek tart for mains was proof to me that the young cooks here were off to a bright future.

National Museum

I spent a few absorbing hours at the traditionally designed terra-cotta National Museum. This stunning building consisted of four pavilions around a central courtyard. Roaming around the rooms, I took in the vast collection of Khmer sculpture spanning several centuries, and got quite an education about the pre-Angkorian and Angkorian eras. Intact statues of Hindu gods, mainly Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, were fascinating to see. Most interesting to me was a display of the statues of the five Pandava brothers and their father, which had been unearthed from the Kohker Archeological site. These almost fully intact statues had been looted by the West, and returned in the recent past. I also enjoyed a video animation of a functioning Angkor Wat. Golden topped towers, glistening lakes, people carrying on their daily chores and routines of a typical day. So splendid. Most impressive museum - not just the collection and information, but the design and beauty of the building too.

Royal Palace

The Royal Palace, striking with its no expense spared architecture and design, didn't excite me. First of all, it was such an ordeal to go around the complex in merciless heat. Then there was that nagging question: should you be entertained by the extravagances of the ruling class in a poor country? The floor of the Silver Pagoda, the most famous building in this complex, was made of silver. Emerald Buddha statues and other precious gifts were obscenely displayed in cases, and all I could think of was all that poverty outside this palace.

Tonle Sap River at Sunset

On an evening walk along Sisowath Quay we saw cart vendors selling lotus fruit and deep fried shrimp, couples strolling along the river, and happy kids running about. The street, clogged with traffic and impossible to cross, is lined with multi-storey hotels and restaurants. We went to the rooftop bar of The Quay Hotel from where we had terrific views of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. I sipped the best Bloody Mary I'd ever had, and watched the river and horizon change to crimson as the sun set on the opposite side.

Fish amok is a traditional Khmer dish cooked in a banana leaf with a coconut milk sauce and seasoned with cardamom pods, lemongrass, and black pepper. Lucky me, I found a delicious vegetarian version at Karma Restaurant on Sisowath Quay. I loved the friendly atmosphere and the focus on being healthy and ethical. The cuisine in Cambodia is similar to Thai food, and influenced by its Vietnamese neighbor. So menus feature stir fries, noodle dishes, and curries with spices like those found in Thai food.

I took an early morning stroll through the beautifully landscaped parks south of the Royal Palace because I wanted to see Independence Monument while it was still cool. Turned out, lots of people had already started their day. All through my stroll I saw groups doing aikido and tai kwan do and other morning exercises. Lining the parks were glitzy buildings housing American designer stores and Starbucks-like cafés. Along other streets I saw stately French colonial style buildings. And behind these grand boulevards there were roadside shacks beside shabby streets.

I found this juxtaposition of the first and third world blended into a colonial past and strong Asian traditions intriguing.

How To Spend a Relaxing Day in Siem Reap

Day 4  January 8, 2015
Spent a big chunk of the morning at the aptly named Peace Café, a vegetarian place that offered yoga and cooking classes. Hippyish, with an ethical and healthy vibe, it had the perfect setting for hanging out and catching my breath. We settled down on cushioned cane chairs in the shade of a wide limbed tree in their inviting garden. I was so overwhelmed by everything I'd seen and done in the last two days, and needed time to assimilate all the information. I also wanted to spend some time reading about Cambodia's ancient and recent past. So while sipping a chilled, fresh passionfruit juice, I first read about the glorious Angkor era when there was such an industriously creative energy manifested in the erection of grandiose monuments. Then I read about the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979), led by Pol Pot, which set about transforming Cambodia into a nation of slaves. The sick, infirm, intellectuals, or anyone not capable of performing a task was put to death. To think that many of the young people we saw around us were the offspring of people who lived in terror of a maniac dictator! It was truly heartbreaking. How is it that humans are capable of such cruelty? So Pol Pot was a psychopath. But what about his supporters who carried out his orders? It was interesting to me that the Vietnamese freed Cambodia -exactly 36 years ago - on January 7, 1979.

After two brutal days of temple touring we were desperate for a serious massage. Not like the weird one we had at our hotel yesterday on a regular bed, with clothes on, and the young ladies weren't even sure what we had ordered. And we certainly didn't want to take a chance on one of those numerous cheap places scattered all over the town. Alicia did some online research and came across rave reviews of Lemongrass Garden Spa. After a delicious lunch of tropical fruit salad from a roadside fruit juice vendor who very obligingly sliced up whatever fruit I requested, we went for our full body aromatherapy massages.

As soon as we entered the tastefully furnished and air-conditioned front office, we knew we were in for a good time. The experience was everything you could expect at a top end spa in the west - soft music, soothing aromas, low lighting - plus more. They served us herbal teas before and after the treatment. And the Asian style massage which involved pressing, kneading, stretching, and rubbing with fragrant oils was sheer luxury. Knowing I deserved this made it all the more enjoyable.

Afterwards we checked out the crafts at Artisan's d'Angkor, famous for helping the community by providing creative opportunities for locals. The silks and carvings were all beautiful and overpriced too, but we bought a few small items to support the cause.

After sunset cocktails at our hotel's rooftop bar we decided to check out the $1.00 tapas deal at the Soria Moria Fusion Restaurant. Every Wednesday evening they ran a training program for young adults registered with local NGO's as part of their extensive social program. Young men and women received training in the various aspects of food service by experienced chefs, turning the place into a cooking school on this evening of the week. We dined here to support their efforts, and were rewarded by a topnotch dinner. The menu was amazingly huge and quite international with chicken satay, meatballs, and sausage rolls. But there were a reasonable number of vegetarian options like samosas and spring rolls which were crisp, light, and filled with well spiced vegetables.
A fantastic meal with great ambience from the many local families dining there.
What a blissful day!

Siem Reap - Day 3 Outer Circuit of Angkor Temples

Day 3 - At 4:30 A.M. I was wrenched out of my deepest sleep by the telephone. We'd arranged to be woken up for sunrise at Angkor Wat, a not to be missed experience, we were told. Our tuk-tuk driver - the same gentle lad from yesterday - picked us up at 5:00 and drove us while it was still dark to the temple. The road was quite busy with other tourists on tuk-tuks, doing the same thing as us. Driving past the massive moat, then walking across the wide bridge into the complex felt a whole lot less bewildering than yesterday. We followed the crowds to the banks of the lake from where we could make out the dark shapes of the towers. We had a bit of a tedious wait in the dark and when daylight finally broke, clouds lingered over the horizon. But as the towers became more defined the atmosphere around me turned to hushed wonder. What a thrill to witness this human masterpiece becoming visible again for all to marvel at! It was easy to imagine I was looking at mountain peaks jutting above the trees, the shimmering reflection in the lake evoking a spiritual mystique. The gods were awakening, preparing for another day of watching their creation.
Alas! The spell was broken too quickly by the click, click, click of photos and the loud banter of tourists.

We returned to the hotel for another hearty breakfast of poached egg, toast, tropical fruit, and smooth Cambodia coffee. A strange red fruit intrigued me, so I asked what it was.


"Dragon fruit," they replied and cut it up into neat slices for us to sample. It was quite fleshy, sweet, and slightly acidic, a bit like kiwi.



Our tuk-tuk driver was all smiles at 9:00 when he helped us get seated in his carriage. It was a public holiday in Cambodia -Independence Day. On January 7, 1979 the Khmer Rouge was ousted by the Vietnamese, freeing the country from genocidal rule. But our driver couldn't sacrifice a day's salary to celebrate. Today he was taking us to the outer circuit of the Angkor temples, and to Banteay Srei - the Citadel of Beauty - a shrine dedicated to women.
Entering rural countryside we started to see dried paddy fields, cows, water buffalo, and laborers in loose cotton pants and checkered scarves for protection from the sun.
The first temple we saw on the outer circuit was Pr. Prerup.  Small and beautiful, it begged to be photographed. We did have to ascend a steep flight of stairs, though, to get to its towers. No escaping the fact that temple touring meant a little more physical exertion than you hoped for!

Pr. Prerup

Back in the tuk-tuk we had a long drive - about 30 minutes - past large expanses of barren paddy fields and poor villages with make shift houses on stilts. Our next stop was Banteay Srei, a temple that stood out due to its sandstone exterior and eye-catching carvings. This small and fairly well preserved temple buzzed with tourists hopping to each door frame for photos. It was a joy to stroll around and admire the engravings that covered practically every wall.

Banteay Srei

Just outside the temple a group of disabled musicians, victims of landmines, played traditional music for a donation. In such a poor country where much of the population battles to emerge from Pol Pot's oppression, surprisingly little panhandling exists. I found it heartwarming to see efforts to preserve dignity and provide respectful opportunities to earn money.

A colorful collection of inexpensive souvenir shops with decent quality stuff got our attention at the exit. Alicia bought a pair of brightly colored loose cotton cropped pants. We noticed the locals wearing them as they provided perfect protection from the heat. I considered getting one of those traditional checkered cotton scarves. Every local used one of these either as sun protection, or over their noses and mouths against dust and pollution. A side note: Khmer rouge soldiers wore these same kind of scarves in red.
I settled for an Asian style white cotton shirt with a picture of Angkor Wat for Daryl.

A refreshing coconut drink at a snazzy open air café - furnished with gorgeous wooden tables and chairs -worked like magic. We were ready for the next temple. We found our driver asleep on his hammock when we returned to our tuk-tuk. That's what all the drivers did while waiting for their customers.

We headed back toward Siem Reap to continue our outer circuit temple tour. First came East Mebon - small and easy to take in, similar in design to other Angkor temples with towers shaped like the mythical mountains of Hinduism.

Ta Som

Next we went to Ta Som, an unrestored single story, small shrine. Its distinguishing feature was a huge ficus which has grown into its east tower.

Around 1:00 we were hot, hungry, and exhausted. Rivers of sweat flowed down my body. Breathing in the dust and fumes while riding in the tuk-tuk became almost unbearable. Our driver gave us cold wet towels scented with eucalyptus to mop our brows and necks. Oh, it felt utterly divine. Trudging through temples was hard work. At this point our hearts were no longer in it. Should we quit and finish up tomorrow? Given the huge distance we'd have to cover to get back it didn't seem practical. Maybe we'd feel better after lunch.
A collection of restaurants near the next temple served the typical fare - various Khmer and Asian curries accompanied by big bowls of fluffy white rice. We dragged ourselves to the shady interior of the least busy one, where quick service, okay food, and a comfortable chair took away much of our misery.

Bridge leading to Neak Pean

Feeling a little more energetic we dutifully went to the next temple - Neak Pean. We had to walk along a long wooden bridge which took us across a massive man built lake.
This little temple - unrestored and in ruins sits on an island and tourists get to gawk and photograph it from across the water.

Preah Khan

With a feeling of tremendous relief we got off the tuk-tuk and headed to the last temple of the day - Preah Khan, which served as a monastery and teaching center a thousand years ago. You enter along a paved causeway bordered by carvings of gods on one side and demons on the other holding the body of a serpent. I had seen this style a few times now with Buddha sitting against the serpent's head.
Past the first enclosure I was amazed to see how substantial this place was. Oh no! More stairs to climb! We came to four gopuras (towers) and within these was the Hall of Dancers with a bas relief depicting Apsaras. The Apsaras were dancing women from mythology, and a recurring theme in many of the Angkor carvings all over the area. Major restoration work was in progress at this temple and in a few years this very interesting place will be even more so.

We were back at the hotel by 4:00 P.M., but with the early start, and a full day, it felt like midnight. After a magical shower we studied the spa menu offered by the hotel. Obviously it had to be the full body aromatherapy which included a foot massage!

Two young women showed up with fragrant oils and gave us unconventional, but pretty decent massages. They didn't ask us to remove our clothes and we were not on massage tables. But in true Asian style they got right up on our backs and pressed and rubbed every single aching muscle. Wow!

At sunset we went to the rooftop bar for free champagne - a Tuesday special at our hotel. The sky took on attractive shades of yellow and red as we sipped our fizzy drinks. We shared a table with a Swedish woman who told us about her life in her village 50 km from the North Pole. She showed us photos of the Northern lights which she sees everyday in midwinter.

For dinner we went into the buzzy center of Siem Reap and ate at Chamkar Vegetarian Restaurant, in the middle of The Old Passage - a very atmospheric narrow lane. It's inventive menu revealed an intention to please the discerning western tourist. For starters we had their wedding day dip made with creamed mushrooms, coconut milk, and roasted peanuts. It was served with baguette. Baguette, it turned out, was very commonly eaten in this country. We had an excellent tofu dish and Cambodian curried vegetables for mains. A truly satisfying meal after such an intense day.
A young English couple sat at the table next to ours and we got into a deep conversation with them. They seemed quite conflicted about spending money on luxuries here while there were so many poor people around. They felt they needed to do something about the poverty, but couldn't resist ordering a bottle of French wine with their meal.

After dinner we intended to go to a bar at King's Road Angkor across the lit up bridge to listen to live jazz. We had walked through this newly built center earlier in the evening on our way into town, and were so taken by its stunning architecture. A modernized take on a traditional Khmer village, the all wooden structure on two levels was built around a courtyard. This center was full of chic cafés, bars, and restaurants in individually designed houses. The upper levels were on stilts and we could see tourists enjoying happy hour drinks on the balconies. It would have been the perfect place for an after dinner cocktail, but fatigue steered us to our beds instead.

Ankgor Wat - Siem Reap's Raison d'être

Two scintillating weeks of travel through Cambodia and Vietnam launched me into 2015. Last summer when Daryl groaned at my "boring" decision to fly directly to Australia after New Year from South Africa, I perused a map to see what lay between these two countries. Cambodia and Vietnam glared indignantly back at me with a "Hell-lo-oh?". Yup! Why not yield to the current fashion?

My friend, Alicia, asked to join me when I mentioned I was going to see Angkor Wat. We came up with an itinerary with the help of friends who had recently traveled to the region and booked all our hotels in advance. We didn't want to invite unnecessary adventure since we figured we'd be encountering plenty once we were in Asia.

The first striking thing about Cambodia was the warmth and openness of the Khmer people. Their perpetual smiles and eagerness to be accommodating was actually heartbreaking. How could one avoid thinking about the brutality they endured under the Khmer Rouge?

Cambodia's past - both ancient and recent - haunts the visitor constantly. At my first destination, Siem Reap,  I was immersed in the history of the early Angkor era - from the years 802 - 1200, when all the glorious temples were built. At the same time, the chilling political events of the 1970's was ever pervasive. You are constantly made aware of the efforts to assist land-mine victims and street kids. Many foreigners, especially from Northern Europe, have set up infrastructure to develop this very poor country. They hire and train locals in an attempt to help and build up the local economy and community. At the temple exits a band of land mine victims plays traditional music to earn a living. Several training restaurants make it their mission to rescue street youngsters - the offspring of either soldiers or victims of the Khmer Rouge - and train them in the various aspects of the restaurant industry.

So spending time in Cambodia inadvertantly is an educational experience.

Day 1: We checked in at the Swedish owned Soria Moria Hotel in Siem Reap and I can't say enough wonderful things about this little boutique hotel. Entering its clean and elegant lobby I felt an instant rush of joy. The very friendly staff, the first Khmer people we interacted with, welcomed us with a refreshing fruit juice, and patiently answered our questions. They set us up with a tuk-tuk driver and suggested temple tour itineraries for the next 3 days. Our spacious room, furnished with gorgeous wooden furniture, felt utterly luxurious. I was jet-lagged and tired from my eight hour flight. I quickly showered, unpacked, and sank into a blissful nap.
It was late afternoon when we ventured out into the center of Siem Reap, across the river from us. Within minutes of leaving the hotel we found ourselves gawking at a beautiful temple. No, not one of those famous ones, but a more recently built ordinary one. Continuing our walk we discovered an unexpectedly charming center. A river slices through the little town and pretty bridges connect the two sides. Since it was early January holiday lights decorated the main bridge and parks. Every bar in town - and there were many - advertised Happy Hour specials. Cocktails, beer, and wine of top quality and irresistibly priced ($1.00 - $3.00) ensured full bars with happy customers. We were very entertained by the lively vibe from cafes, craft markets, restaurants, spa places, hotels, shops, and tourists.Yes, hundreds of tourists from all over the world - here to see one of the most famous monuments in the world - Angkor Wat. And the tourists give Siem Reap its raison d'être.

The Old Market Quarter of SiemReap

We meandered through a narrow lane of shops and cafes and then came to the famous Pub Street, where we spotted a huge Mexican restaurant. It's buzzy terrace full of tourists sipping margaritas was irresistible to us. Luckily the extensive menu had some traditional Khmer curries so we felt quite justified to relax here in the shade with a chilled Angkor beer while contemplating dinner.

Wandering further through the town after our very tasty meal, we were impressed at how much livelier it had become. Night markets with food stalls had opened up on every street and alley. Spa places offering massages and other treatments at absurdly low prices were in full swing. We saw tourists with their feet in little fish tanks where fish were nibbling at their dead skin. We considered getting the fish treatment, but it felt too icky for us. Wandering through the delightful Old Market we got a good idea of the local crafts, most notably handmade silks and cotton scarves with the traditional checkered pattern. I loved the intricate embroidery of the colorful cotton handbags which came in different sizes. On and on we walked, enjoying the coolness of the evening air, until our aching feet forced us back to our comfortable beds.

Day 2
Wow! What an incredible breakfast spread greeted us in the dining room! Fresh pastries, Asian stir fry, tropical fruit, an egg station, healthy breads, a variety of fruit juices, teas, and Cambodian coffee. A full day of sightseeing awaited us so we took the liberty to pig out. I ordered a poached egg and was most impressed at how perfect it turned out. I was a bit skeptical about the coffee, but to my surprise it was quite strong, yet smooth and a tad sweet.

Our tuk-tuk driver arrived at 8:00 AM to take us on a tour of the inner circuit of temples. I hesitated when I saw the driver on a motorcycle hitched to a carriage. But I didn't have a choice. This was how you got around here.

First temple - the most famous, most magnificent, and largest - Angkor Wat. It was about a half hour drive from our hotel - through less built up areas. We saw locals going about their daily business - uniformed school kids on bicycles, workers on scooters, busy cafés in wall-less shed type structures.

We drove by a huge lake, but soon realized it was the moat around Angkor Wat - a prelude to the staggering scale of this temple. This national symbol of Cambodia was built between 1113 and 1152 by Suryavarman II and dedicated to the Hindu deity Vishnu.
At the crowded entrance you have to cross a really wide bridge before coming to an elaborate entrance building, which I thought was the actual temple. Then you go along a promenade flanked by rectangular lakes and enter a central temple famous for its bas reliefs which extend completely around the building. We spent some time here trying to understand the historical events depicted in these impressive carvings, which exemplified the sophisticated art of the period. Further on, along a different wall, the bar relief showed scenes from the Hindu epic the Mahabarata. Scenes from the Ramayana - which I'd read many years ago - were also illustrated, and it was great fun to identify the gods and their actions. Imbued in the strong spirit of Hindu mythology, I lingered a little too long.

The sun had climbed higher and leaving the shaded hallway to get to the heart of the complex was a challenge. My heart sank when I realized I had to ascend a steep flight of unshaded stairs. Traveling for adventure was not supposed to be easy. Up I went, one step at a time, and found myself at the base of the enormous towers.

The highest tower rises from the exact middle of the entire Angkor Wat complex. It symbolizes Mount Meru,  abode of the gods, the Mount Olympus of Hindu mythology. The other towers supposedly symbolize the other peaks of Meru. Hinduism was the religion of the Khmers during the early Angkor period and sculptures and carvings of Vishnu, Siva, and Brahma and other gods decorate the temples. Later, when Buddhism was introduced, statues of Buddha were added. This explained the existence of the hall of a thousand Buddhas which we were glad not to have missed in this vast place.
What must it have been like a thousand years ago when people lived, worked, and worshipped here?After 3 hours of exploring the buildings and grounds in punishing heat, I was ready to collapse on a bed of ice.

We should have called it a day at this point. There was so much to assimilate. Plus, we were physically wiped out. A fine lunch, followed by a siesta, then a spa treatment, a happy hour cocktail, and dinner. That's what we should have done. Foolishly we thought all we needed was a one hour lunch break and we'd be ready for more.

We relaxed at Palmboo Restaurant (suggested by our tuk-tuk driver), which served traditional Khmer curries. It was in a tropical setting with coconut palms around it and sort of in the middle of nowhere, but minutes from our next destination. I had coconut water right out of a freshly cut coconut to go with my mildly spiced, but very aromatic vegetable curry. Nothing is more refreshing and thirst quenching than coconut water.

The name Jayavarman VII kept coming up during our afternoon tour since he had commissioned most of the inner circuit buildings. We visited Ta Prom, a much smaller temple, famous for ancient trees choking the ruins and towering over them. It was left unrestored to show what the temples looked like when they were found.

Back in the tuk-tuk with the heat beating down on us and dust from unpaved roads coating our arms and legs, we approached the next temple - Bayon. We entered the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom - the last capital of the Khmer Empire - through its famous south gate with carved faces each pointing in a cardinal direction - characteristic of the architectural design in this area.

This city was founded by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century and was the capital until the 17th century. We drove past the Terrace of the Elephants, the focal point of Royal receptions and the entrance to the Royal palace. We past the Terrace of the Leper King before arriving at the center where we saw the Bayon Temple. This beautiful temple had 54 Gothic towers, decorated with 216 enormous faces of some king when it was built.

With much effort I forced my body past the entrance, and along the unshaded path to the building.  I found it a bit spooky to be stared at by the huge faces.Thankfully, it was much smaller than Angkor Wat and a few minutes of exploration was sufficient.

Time for another break. We cooled down at the stylish Blue Pumpkin near the entrance to Angkor Wat. The ultra-modern and very popular Blue Pumpkin Cafés in and around Siem Reap looked like they had been lifted from a European capital and planted here. Sinking into a comfortable chair in air-conditioned luxury, I took guilty pleasure in leaving behind the exotic world of Cambodia. I ordered a scoop of their famous, homemade ice-cream and spent a blissful hour being inert.

Everyone has to see sunset over Angkor Wat - so we were told. Our driver took us to Phnom Bakheng for this purpose. Due to the crowds we set out early - around 4:00 - and had to hike up a hill to some temple ruins for the best views. Looking across I could see the whole Angkor Wat complex. This big picture gave me a better understanding of my morning tour. At the opposite end - the west - we could see the Tonle Sap Lake. Sunset would be over the lake so my expectations of a transformed Angkor Wat sank way down. However, it was quite pleasant up on the hill sitting on the remains of the walls of an ancient temple. We were highly amused by tourists smiling at their iPhones perched on selfie sticks "Taking the selfie to new lengths," I joked, and smiled at my cleverness! Alicia and I couldn't understand the hype over the somewhat ordinary sunset, but the photos revealed a beauty we hadn't fully grasped in real time.

As the light faded we made our way down the hill. A sudden chorus of shrill rings pierced the air. It took me a while to figure out that they were made by cicadas. Louder, shriller than I'd ever heard before.

Back at the hotel, all smartly dressed, after painfully fantastic showers, we considered dinner options that didn't require effort. Fortunately one of the city's finest restaurants, The Square 24, was just across the street. This place exceeded our expectations. The contemporary design with open air seating and tables along a rectangular pond and beautiful lighting gave an instant feeling of being indulged. Stellar service and first rate Asian cuisine cheered us to no end. The delicate flavors in my meal - a traditional Khmer curry - came from whole green cardamom pods, lemongrass, and black pepper. There was a good variety of fresh vegetables cooked just enough to deepen their flavors and colors, but retained a crunch. Trés magnifique! It really was the perfect ending to a most interesting day.