Phnom Penh

A seven hour bus journey on the Mekong Express - a rather spiffy air-conditioned coach - got us from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Snacks, wet wipes, and bottled water were provided by a smiling attendant, easing the tedium of riding through flat, dry landscape and poor roads. Cows and water buffalo grazed on fields that would turn lush once the rainy season resumed. Halfway through the jouney we stopped for a restroom and food break in a little town by a bustling market. Among the tropical fruit and coconuts were big pots of fried insects. I bought a cut up pineapple and a bunch of bananas to sustain me for the next 3 hours.

Well Phnom Penh was not the chaotic, soulless city I'd imagined. With its 21st century aspirations, a French past, and an exotic East Asian culture, this city was unexpectedly entertaining. Plus, its location at the confluence of two major rivers - the Mekong and the Tonle Sap - allows you to take some scenic photos to post on Facebook and make people envious. I found the constant contrasts a little jolting. On the clogged streets people drive Lexuses and Hyundais, and then you cross to a potholed lane and you see cyclists wheeling baskets of fruit or smoldering grills. An imposing Colonial building will catch your eye, then at its shady base there are street people from the countryside (no work in the dry season) in makeshift structures cooking on open fires or trying to sell their wares.

Arriving in Phnom Penh after Siem Reap you are immediately hit by the rawness of a metropolis. Noisy, heavy car traffic, bustling, and dirty. But we immediately encountered helpful locals who got us a tuk-tuk to ferry us to our hotel. We drove through the unappealing center with its shabby buildings and clogged roads and ceaseless honking and arrived at the Riverfront area which took on a completely different character. We noticed ornate buildings - traditional Khmer style and French colonial - and beautiful parks.

H Hotel

We stayed at H Hotel, a small, über trendy, boutique hotel, near the Royal Palace. With a black and white color scheme and smooth, matt stone surfaces, my two days here felt very luxurious. The layout of the room was a bit unusual with a granite headboard away from the wall allowing for an office area with a desk and work surface between the bed and wall. An indulgent shower in the granite tiled bathroom with trapezoid shower stall and expensive soaps contrasted starkly with the street scene outside where spirited cart vendors awaited customers. Breakfast (notably a perfect croissant served with intensely flavorful passionfruit jam) was served in an open dining area with tables around the sparkling pool. Excellent coffee - espresso steamed milk - came in fine porcelain.

FCC Building

On our first evening we saw a romantically lit up colonial style building with columns and arches. It turned out to be the FCC Building, where journalists converged during the Vietnam War. Their outdoor bar in a lovely garden with low tables and candlelight was the perfect setting for a glass of excellent French Viognier. A bowl of roasted peanuts arrived at our table and we thought we could sit there forever. This rather pleasant experience set the tone for a most enjoyable two days in this city.

Friends Restaurant is famous for training street kids to cook and serve gourmet meals. An eclectic menu allowed us to take a break from tradional curries and rice. Zucchini fritters for starters and a leek tart for mains was proof to me that the young cooks here were off to a bright future.

National Museum

I spent a few absorbing hours at the traditionally designed terra-cotta National Museum. This stunning building consisted of four pavilions around a central courtyard. Roaming around the rooms, I took in the vast collection of Khmer sculpture spanning several centuries, and got quite an education about the pre-Angkorian and Angkorian eras. Intact statues of Hindu gods, mainly Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, were fascinating to see. Most interesting to me was a display of the statues of the five Pandava brothers and their father, which had been unearthed from the Kohker Archeological site. These almost fully intact statues had been looted by the West, and returned in the recent past. I also enjoyed a video animation of a functioning Angkor Wat. Golden topped towers, glistening lakes, people carrying on their daily chores and routines of a typical day. So splendid. Most impressive museum - not just the collection and information, but the design and beauty of the building too.

Royal Palace

The Royal Palace, striking with its no expense spared architecture and design, didn't excite me. First of all, it was such an ordeal to go around the complex in merciless heat. Then there was that nagging question: should you be entertained by the extravagances of the ruling class in a poor country? The floor of the Silver Pagoda, the most famous building in this complex, was made of silver. Emerald Buddha statues and other precious gifts were obscenely displayed in cases, and all I could think of was all that poverty outside this palace.

Tonle Sap River at Sunset

On an evening walk along Sisowath Quay we saw cart vendors selling lotus fruit and deep fried shrimp, couples strolling along the river, and happy kids running about. The street, clogged with traffic and impossible to cross, is lined with multi-storey hotels and restaurants. We went to the rooftop bar of The Quay Hotel from where we had terrific views of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. I sipped the best Bloody Mary I'd ever had, and watched the river and horizon change to crimson as the sun set on the opposite side.

Fish amok is a traditional Khmer dish cooked in a banana leaf with a coconut milk sauce and seasoned with cardamom pods, lemongrass, and black pepper. Lucky me, I found a delicious vegetarian version at Karma Restaurant on Sisowath Quay. I loved the friendly atmosphere and the focus on being healthy and ethical. The cuisine in Cambodia is similar to Thai food, and influenced by its Vietnamese neighbor. So menus feature stir fries, noodle dishes, and curries with spices like those found in Thai food.

I took an early morning stroll through the beautifully landscaped parks south of the Royal Palace because I wanted to see Independence Monument while it was still cool. Turned out, lots of people had already started their day. All through my stroll I saw groups doing aikido and tai kwan do and other morning exercises. Lining the parks were glitzy buildings housing American designer stores and Starbucks-like cafés. Along other streets I saw stately French colonial style buildings. And behind these grand boulevards there were roadside shacks beside shabby streets.

I found this juxtaposition of the first and third world blended into a colonial past and strong Asian traditions intriguing.

How To Spend a Relaxing Day in Siem Reap

Day 4  January 8, 2015
Spent a big chunk of the morning at the aptly named Peace Café, a vegetarian place that offered yoga and cooking classes. Hippyish, with an ethical and healthy vibe, it had the perfect setting for hanging out and catching my breath. We settled down on cushioned cane chairs in the shade of a wide limbed tree in their inviting garden. I was so overwhelmed by everything I'd seen and done in the last two days, and needed time to assimilate all the information. I also wanted to spend some time reading about Cambodia's ancient and recent past. So while sipping a chilled, fresh passionfruit juice, I first read about the glorious Angkor era when there was such an industriously creative energy manifested in the erection of grandiose monuments. Then I read about the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979), led by Pol Pot, which set about transforming Cambodia into a nation of slaves. The sick, infirm, intellectuals, or anyone not capable of performing a task was put to death. To think that many of the young people we saw around us were the offspring of people who lived in terror of a maniac dictator! It was truly heartbreaking. How is it that humans are capable of such cruelty? So Pol Pot was a psychopath. But what about his supporters who carried out his orders? It was interesting to me that the Vietnamese freed Cambodia -exactly 36 years ago - on January 7, 1979.

After two brutal days of temple touring we were desperate for a serious massage. Not like the weird one we had at our hotel yesterday on a regular bed, with clothes on, and the young ladies weren't even sure what we had ordered. And we certainly didn't want to take a chance on one of those numerous cheap places scattered all over the town. Alicia did some online research and came across rave reviews of Lemongrass Garden Spa. After a delicious lunch of tropical fruit salad from a roadside fruit juice vendor who very obligingly sliced up whatever fruit I requested, we went for our full body aromatherapy massages.

As soon as we entered the tastefully furnished and air-conditioned front office, we knew we were in for a good time. The experience was everything you could expect at a top end spa in the west - soft music, soothing aromas, low lighting - plus more. They served us herbal teas before and after the treatment. And the Asian style massage which involved pressing, kneading, stretching, and rubbing with fragrant oils was sheer luxury. Knowing I deserved this made it all the more enjoyable.

Afterwards we checked out the crafts at Artisan's d'Angkor, famous for helping the community by providing creative opportunities for locals. The silks and carvings were all beautiful and overpriced too, but we bought a few small items to support the cause.

After sunset cocktails at our hotel's rooftop bar we decided to check out the $1.00 tapas deal at the Soria Moria Fusion Restaurant. Every Wednesday evening they ran a training program for young adults registered with local NGO's as part of their extensive social program. Young men and women received training in the various aspects of food service by experienced chefs, turning the place into a cooking school on this evening of the week. We dined here to support their efforts, and were rewarded by a topnotch dinner. The menu was amazingly huge and quite international with chicken satay, meatballs, and sausage rolls. But there were a reasonable number of vegetarian options like samosas and spring rolls which were crisp, light, and filled with well spiced vegetables.
A fantastic meal with great ambience from the many local families dining there.
What a blissful day!

Siem Reap - Day 3 Outer Circuit of Angkor Temples

Day 3 - At 4:30 A.M. I was wrenched out of my deepest sleep by the telephone. We'd arranged to be woken up for sunrise at Angkor Wat, a not to be missed experience, we were told. Our tuk-tuk driver - the same gentle lad from yesterday - picked us up at 5:00 and drove us while it was still dark to the temple. The road was quite busy with other tourists on tuk-tuks, doing the same thing as us. Driving past the massive moat, then walking across the wide bridge into the complex felt a whole lot less bewildering than yesterday. We followed the crowds to the banks of the lake from where we could make out the dark shapes of the towers. We had a bit of a tedious wait in the dark and when daylight finally broke, clouds lingered over the horizon. But as the towers became more defined the atmosphere around me turned to hushed wonder. What a thrill to witness this human masterpiece becoming visible again for all to marvel at! It was easy to imagine I was looking at mountain peaks jutting above the trees, the shimmering reflection in the lake evoking a spiritual mystique. The gods were awakening, preparing for another day of watching their creation.
Alas! The spell was broken too quickly by the click, click, click of photos and the loud banter of tourists.

We returned to the hotel for another hearty breakfast of poached egg, toast, tropical fruit, and smooth Cambodia coffee. A strange red fruit intrigued me, so I asked what it was.


"Dragon fruit," they replied and cut it up into neat slices for us to sample. It was quite fleshy, sweet, and slightly acidic, a bit like kiwi.



Our tuk-tuk driver was all smiles at 9:00 when he helped us get seated in his carriage. It was a public holiday in Cambodia -Independence Day. On January 7, 1979 the Khmer Rouge was ousted by the Vietnamese, freeing the country from genocidal rule. But our driver couldn't sacrifice a day's salary to celebrate. Today he was taking us to the outer circuit of the Angkor temples, and to Banteay Srei - the Citadel of Beauty - a shrine dedicated to women.
Entering rural countryside we started to see dried paddy fields, cows, water buffalo, and laborers in loose cotton pants and checkered scarves for protection from the sun.
The first temple we saw on the outer circuit was Pr. Prerup.  Small and beautiful, it begged to be photographed. We did have to ascend a steep flight of stairs, though, to get to its towers. No escaping the fact that temple touring meant a little more physical exertion than you hoped for!

Pr. Prerup

Back in the tuk-tuk we had a long drive - about 30 minutes - past large expanses of barren paddy fields and poor villages with make shift houses on stilts. Our next stop was Banteay Srei, a temple that stood out due to its sandstone exterior and eye-catching carvings. This small and fairly well preserved temple buzzed with tourists hopping to each door frame for photos. It was a joy to stroll around and admire the engravings that covered practically every wall.

Banteay Srei

Just outside the temple a group of disabled musicians, victims of landmines, played traditional music for a donation. In such a poor country where much of the population battles to emerge from Pol Pot's oppression, surprisingly little panhandling exists. I found it heartwarming to see efforts to preserve dignity and provide respectful opportunities to earn money.

A colorful collection of inexpensive souvenir shops with decent quality stuff got our attention at the exit. Alicia bought a pair of brightly colored loose cotton cropped pants. We noticed the locals wearing them as they provided perfect protection from the heat. I considered getting one of those traditional checkered cotton scarves. Every local used one of these either as sun protection, or over their noses and mouths against dust and pollution. A side note: Khmer rouge soldiers wore these same kind of scarves in red.
I settled for an Asian style white cotton shirt with a picture of Angkor Wat for Daryl.

A refreshing coconut drink at a snazzy open air café - furnished with gorgeous wooden tables and chairs -worked like magic. We were ready for the next temple. We found our driver asleep on his hammock when we returned to our tuk-tuk. That's what all the drivers did while waiting for their customers.

We headed back toward Siem Reap to continue our outer circuit temple tour. First came East Mebon - small and easy to take in, similar in design to other Angkor temples with towers shaped like the mythical mountains of Hinduism.

Ta Som

Next we went to Ta Som, an unrestored single story, small shrine. Its distinguishing feature was a huge ficus which has grown into its east tower.

Around 1:00 we were hot, hungry, and exhausted. Rivers of sweat flowed down my body. Breathing in the dust and fumes while riding in the tuk-tuk became almost unbearable. Our driver gave us cold wet towels scented with eucalyptus to mop our brows and necks. Oh, it felt utterly divine. Trudging through temples was hard work. At this point our hearts were no longer in it. Should we quit and finish up tomorrow? Given the huge distance we'd have to cover to get back it didn't seem practical. Maybe we'd feel better after lunch.
A collection of restaurants near the next temple served the typical fare - various Khmer and Asian curries accompanied by big bowls of fluffy white rice. We dragged ourselves to the shady interior of the least busy one, where quick service, okay food, and a comfortable chair took away much of our misery.

Bridge leading to Neak Pean

Feeling a little more energetic we dutifully went to the next temple - Neak Pean. We had to walk along a long wooden bridge which took us across a massive man built lake.
This little temple - unrestored and in ruins sits on an island and tourists get to gawk and photograph it from across the water.

Preah Khan

With a feeling of tremendous relief we got off the tuk-tuk and headed to the last temple of the day - Preah Khan, which served as a monastery and teaching center a thousand years ago. You enter along a paved causeway bordered by carvings of gods on one side and demons on the other holding the body of a serpent. I had seen this style a few times now with Buddha sitting against the serpent's head.
Past the first enclosure I was amazed to see how substantial this place was. Oh no! More stairs to climb! We came to four gopuras (towers) and within these was the Hall of Dancers with a bas relief depicting Apsaras. The Apsaras were dancing women from mythology, and a recurring theme in many of the Angkor carvings all over the area. Major restoration work was in progress at this temple and in a few years this very interesting place will be even more so.

We were back at the hotel by 4:00 P.M., but with the early start, and a full day, it felt like midnight. After a magical shower we studied the spa menu offered by the hotel. Obviously it had to be the full body aromatherapy which included a foot massage!

Two young women showed up with fragrant oils and gave us unconventional, but pretty decent massages. They didn't ask us to remove our clothes and we were not on massage tables. But in true Asian style they got right up on our backs and pressed and rubbed every single aching muscle. Wow!

At sunset we went to the rooftop bar for free champagne - a Tuesday special at our hotel. The sky took on attractive shades of yellow and red as we sipped our fizzy drinks. We shared a table with a Swedish woman who told us about her life in her village 50 km from the North Pole. She showed us photos of the Northern lights which she sees everyday in midwinter.

For dinner we went into the buzzy center of Siem Reap and ate at Chamkar Vegetarian Restaurant, in the middle of The Old Passage - a very atmospheric narrow lane. It's inventive menu revealed an intention to please the discerning western tourist. For starters we had their wedding day dip made with creamed mushrooms, coconut milk, and roasted peanuts. It was served with baguette. Baguette, it turned out, was very commonly eaten in this country. We had an excellent tofu dish and Cambodian curried vegetables for mains. A truly satisfying meal after such an intense day.
A young English couple sat at the table next to ours and we got into a deep conversation with them. They seemed quite conflicted about spending money on luxuries here while there were so many poor people around. They felt they needed to do something about the poverty, but couldn't resist ordering a bottle of French wine with their meal.

After dinner we intended to go to a bar at King's Road Angkor across the lit up bridge to listen to live jazz. We had walked through this newly built center earlier in the evening on our way into town, and were so taken by its stunning architecture. A modernized take on a traditional Khmer village, the all wooden structure on two levels was built around a courtyard. This center was full of chic cafés, bars, and restaurants in individually designed houses. The upper levels were on stilts and we could see tourists enjoying happy hour drinks on the balconies. It would have been the perfect place for an after dinner cocktail, but fatigue steered us to our beds instead.

Ankgor Wat - Siem Reap's Raison d'être

Two scintillating weeks of travel through Cambodia and Vietnam launched me into 2015. Last summer when Daryl groaned at my "boring" decision to fly directly to Australia after New Year from South Africa, I perused a map to see what lay between these two countries. Cambodia and Vietnam glared indignantly back at me with a "Hell-lo-oh?". Yup! Why not yield to the current fashion?

My friend, Alicia, asked to join me when I mentioned I was going to see Angkor Wat. We came up with an itinerary with the help of friends who had recently traveled to the region and booked all our hotels in advance. We didn't want to invite unnecessary adventure since we figured we'd be encountering plenty once we were in Asia.

The first striking thing about Cambodia was the warmth and openness of the Khmer people. Their perpetual smiles and eagerness to be accommodating was actually heartbreaking. How could one avoid thinking about the brutality they endured under the Khmer Rouge?

Cambodia's past - both ancient and recent - haunts the visitor constantly. At my first destination, Siem Reap,  I was immersed in the history of the early Angkor era - from the years 802 - 1200, when all the glorious temples were built. At the same time, the chilling political events of the 1970's was ever pervasive. You are constantly made aware of the efforts to assist land-mine victims and street kids. Many foreigners, especially from Northern Europe, have set up infrastructure to develop this very poor country. They hire and train locals in an attempt to help and build up the local economy and community. At the temple exits a band of land mine victims plays traditional music to earn a living. Several training restaurants make it their mission to rescue street youngsters - the offspring of either soldiers or victims of the Khmer Rouge - and train them in the various aspects of the restaurant industry.

So spending time in Cambodia inadvertantly is an educational experience.

Day 1: We checked in at the Swedish owned Soria Moria Hotel in Siem Reap and I can't say enough wonderful things about this little boutique hotel. Entering its clean and elegant lobby I felt an instant rush of joy. The very friendly staff, the first Khmer people we interacted with, welcomed us with a refreshing fruit juice, and patiently answered our questions. They set us up with a tuk-tuk driver and suggested temple tour itineraries for the next 3 days. Our spacious room, furnished with gorgeous wooden furniture, felt utterly luxurious. I was jet-lagged and tired from my eight hour flight. I quickly showered, unpacked, and sank into a blissful nap.
It was late afternoon when we ventured out into the center of Siem Reap, across the river from us. Within minutes of leaving the hotel we found ourselves gawking at a beautiful temple. No, not one of those famous ones, but a more recently built ordinary one. Continuing our walk we discovered an unexpectedly charming center. A river slices through the little town and pretty bridges connect the two sides. Since it was early January holiday lights decorated the main bridge and parks. Every bar in town - and there were many - advertised Happy Hour specials. Cocktails, beer, and wine of top quality and irresistibly priced ($1.00 - $3.00) ensured full bars with happy customers. We were very entertained by the lively vibe from cafes, craft markets, restaurants, spa places, hotels, shops, and tourists.Yes, hundreds of tourists from all over the world - here to see one of the most famous monuments in the world - Angkor Wat. And the tourists give Siem Reap its raison d'être.

The Old Market Quarter of SiemReap

We meandered through a narrow lane of shops and cafes and then came to the famous Pub Street, where we spotted a huge Mexican restaurant. It's buzzy terrace full of tourists sipping margaritas was irresistible to us. Luckily the extensive menu had some traditional Khmer curries so we felt quite justified to relax here in the shade with a chilled Angkor beer while contemplating dinner.

Wandering further through the town after our very tasty meal, we were impressed at how much livelier it had become. Night markets with food stalls had opened up on every street and alley. Spa places offering massages and other treatments at absurdly low prices were in full swing. We saw tourists with their feet in little fish tanks where fish were nibbling at their dead skin. We considered getting the fish treatment, but it felt too icky for us. Wandering through the delightful Old Market we got a good idea of the local crafts, most notably handmade silks and cotton scarves with the traditional checkered pattern. I loved the intricate embroidery of the colorful cotton handbags which came in different sizes. On and on we walked, enjoying the coolness of the evening air, until our aching feet forced us back to our comfortable beds.

Day 2
Wow! What an incredible breakfast spread greeted us in the dining room! Fresh pastries, Asian stir fry, tropical fruit, an egg station, healthy breads, a variety of fruit juices, teas, and Cambodian coffee. A full day of sightseeing awaited us so we took the liberty to pig out. I ordered a poached egg and was most impressed at how perfect it turned out. I was a bit skeptical about the coffee, but to my surprise it was quite strong, yet smooth and a tad sweet.

Our tuk-tuk driver arrived at 8:00 AM to take us on a tour of the inner circuit of temples. I hesitated when I saw the driver on a motorcycle hitched to a carriage. But I didn't have a choice. This was how you got around here.

First temple - the most famous, most magnificent, and largest - Angkor Wat. It was about a half hour drive from our hotel - through less built up areas. We saw locals going about their daily business - uniformed school kids on bicycles, workers on scooters, busy cafés in wall-less shed type structures.

We drove by a huge lake, but soon realized it was the moat around Angkor Wat - a prelude to the staggering scale of this temple. This national symbol of Cambodia was built between 1113 and 1152 by Suryavarman II and dedicated to the Hindu deity Vishnu.
At the crowded entrance you have to cross a really wide bridge before coming to an elaborate entrance building, which I thought was the actual temple. Then you go along a promenade flanked by rectangular lakes and enter a central temple famous for its bas reliefs which extend completely around the building. We spent some time here trying to understand the historical events depicted in these impressive carvings, which exemplified the sophisticated art of the period. Further on, along a different wall, the bar relief showed scenes from the Hindu epic the Mahabarata. Scenes from the Ramayana - which I'd read many years ago - were also illustrated, and it was great fun to identify the gods and their actions. Imbued in the strong spirit of Hindu mythology, I lingered a little too long.

The sun had climbed higher and leaving the shaded hallway to get to the heart of the complex was a challenge. My heart sank when I realized I had to ascend a steep flight of unshaded stairs. Traveling for adventure was not supposed to be easy. Up I went, one step at a time, and found myself at the base of the enormous towers.

The highest tower rises from the exact middle of the entire Angkor Wat complex. It symbolizes Mount Meru,  abode of the gods, the Mount Olympus of Hindu mythology. The other towers supposedly symbolize the other peaks of Meru. Hinduism was the religion of the Khmers during the early Angkor period and sculptures and carvings of Vishnu, Siva, and Brahma and other gods decorate the temples. Later, when Buddhism was introduced, statues of Buddha were added. This explained the existence of the hall of a thousand Buddhas which we were glad not to have missed in this vast place.
What must it have been like a thousand years ago when people lived, worked, and worshipped here?After 3 hours of exploring the buildings and grounds in punishing heat, I was ready to collapse on a bed of ice.

We should have called it a day at this point. There was so much to assimilate. Plus, we were physically wiped out. A fine lunch, followed by a siesta, then a spa treatment, a happy hour cocktail, and dinner. That's what we should have done. Foolishly we thought all we needed was a one hour lunch break and we'd be ready for more.

We relaxed at Palmboo Restaurant (suggested by our tuk-tuk driver), which served traditional Khmer curries. It was in a tropical setting with coconut palms around it and sort of in the middle of nowhere, but minutes from our next destination. I had coconut water right out of a freshly cut coconut to go with my mildly spiced, but very aromatic vegetable curry. Nothing is more refreshing and thirst quenching than coconut water.

The name Jayavarman VII kept coming up during our afternoon tour since he had commissioned most of the inner circuit buildings. We visited Ta Prom, a much smaller temple, famous for ancient trees choking the ruins and towering over them. It was left unrestored to show what the temples looked like when they were found.

Back in the tuk-tuk with the heat beating down on us and dust from unpaved roads coating our arms and legs, we approached the next temple - Bayon. We entered the ancient walled city of Angkor Thom - the last capital of the Khmer Empire - through its famous south gate with carved faces each pointing in a cardinal direction - characteristic of the architectural design in this area.

This city was founded by Jayavarman VII in the 12th century and was the capital until the 17th century. We drove past the Terrace of the Elephants, the focal point of Royal receptions and the entrance to the Royal palace. We past the Terrace of the Leper King before arriving at the center where we saw the Bayon Temple. This beautiful temple had 54 Gothic towers, decorated with 216 enormous faces of some king when it was built.

With much effort I forced my body past the entrance, and along the unshaded path to the building.  I found it a bit spooky to be stared at by the huge faces.Thankfully, it was much smaller than Angkor Wat and a few minutes of exploration was sufficient.

Time for another break. We cooled down at the stylish Blue Pumpkin near the entrance to Angkor Wat. The ultra-modern and very popular Blue Pumpkin Cafés in and around Siem Reap looked like they had been lifted from a European capital and planted here. Sinking into a comfortable chair in air-conditioned luxury, I took guilty pleasure in leaving behind the exotic world of Cambodia. I ordered a scoop of their famous, homemade ice-cream and spent a blissful hour being inert.

Everyone has to see sunset over Angkor Wat - so we were told. Our driver took us to Phnom Bakheng for this purpose. Due to the crowds we set out early - around 4:00 - and had to hike up a hill to some temple ruins for the best views. Looking across I could see the whole Angkor Wat complex. This big picture gave me a better understanding of my morning tour. At the opposite end - the west - we could see the Tonle Sap Lake. Sunset would be over the lake so my expectations of a transformed Angkor Wat sank way down. However, it was quite pleasant up on the hill sitting on the remains of the walls of an ancient temple. We were highly amused by tourists smiling at their iPhones perched on selfie sticks "Taking the selfie to new lengths," I joked, and smiled at my cleverness! Alicia and I couldn't understand the hype over the somewhat ordinary sunset, but the photos revealed a beauty we hadn't fully grasped in real time.

As the light faded we made our way down the hill. A sudden chorus of shrill rings pierced the air. It took me a while to figure out that they were made by cicadas. Louder, shriller than I'd ever heard before.

Back at the hotel, all smartly dressed, after painfully fantastic showers, we considered dinner options that didn't require effort. Fortunately one of the city's finest restaurants, The Square 24, was just across the street. This place exceeded our expectations. The contemporary design with open air seating and tables along a rectangular pond and beautiful lighting gave an instant feeling of being indulged. Stellar service and first rate Asian cuisine cheered us to no end. The delicate flavors in my meal - a traditional Khmer curry - came from whole green cardamom pods, lemongrass, and black pepper. There was a good variety of fresh vegetables cooked just enough to deepen their flavors and colors, but retained a crunch. Trés magnifique! It really was the perfect ending to a most interesting day.

Munich - July 2014

During the three and a half hour train journey from Heidelberg to Munich my mind kept wandering back to my first Munich visit twenty years ago. I was filled with anticipation. Would the sites look just as they appeared in my memory? Resurrecting images imprinted in my mind from that first, incredibly interesting trip, it was the glockenspiel that first popped up. I remembered standing on tippy toes in a thick crowd to watch this world famous clock doing its spiel. Next, hazy images of the green onion domed towers of the Frauenkirche came up. More clearly, I could picture the bustle around the Chinese Tower in the English Tea Garden. It was the 4th of July and a van load of people rode around singing American patriotic songs. After scarfing down a slice of pizza I remembered strolling down to the Eisbach and resting on the shady bank, along with lots of others seeking shelter from a punishing sun. Across the bank was Munich's clothing optional beach, and nudists were sprawled on blankets, completely indifferent to the world around them. A young German man next to me made conversation. He was most impressed that I came from Santa Barbara and wondered if we spent all our free time lying on the beach. A copper skinned, attractive Egyptian woman joined in on our conversation. What a pleasant afternoon it had been. What an unforgettable four day visit it had turned out to be.
Twenty years ago. When I was single and lived on a tight budget.
I couldn't afford to stay in a Munich hotel then, so I camped at the Thalkirchen Campgrounds. And it was sheer luck that had made this possible. Without a tent and sleeping bag they didn't want to give me a site. I tried to convince them I'd be fine sleeping on my sheet in the open air. But in Germany rules could not be broken. Then, fate intervened, teaching me that when you traveled low to the ground amazing things happened. This was when you were more likely to encounter kind strangers who touched your life in unforgettable ways. It was such a stranger, a German Namibian, who appeared out of the blue (actually, he worked at that campground) and loaned me a tent and camping equipment, making it be possible for me to enjoy a few days in Munich.

Now, twenty years later, as we rode the U-Bahn to our apartment, I hoped it would be as luxurious as the website description. And it was - gleaming tiles, granite surfaces, a stylish bathroom, comfortable bed. In a word - contemporary.

Adding to our joy was the discovery that the neighborhood was as trendy as you could hope for. It was a Saturday afternoon when we arrived. Summer at its best, and the streets were bustling. I felt immensely happy to be here. All around us there were lots of lively cafés, international restaurants, bars, bakeries, supermarkets, and wine shops. Finding it impossible to ignore the irresistible cakes on display at one of the busy cafés, we grabbed an outside table and placed our order.

Strong cappuccino and moist, dark chocolate cake filled with fresh blackberries, combined with oodles of summer ambience - how could you not fall madly in love with this city? Sharing such a divine experience in the company of locals who were hanging out, having a good time with friends/partners/family should definitely be number one in a rule book on how to enjoy a visit to Munich.

Armed with Rick Steves' guidebook, we wandered over to Marienplatz to start his "walking tour". A festive atmosphere pervaded the city. Throngs of people - tourists and locals - were out and about. At Marienplatz we stood in front of the extremely ornate neo- gothic New Townhouse - one of the very few buildings that survived the bombing of WWII. It was almost 5:00 and the glockenspiel was about to "joust". A huge crowd practically smothered us. However, it was definitely worth it. We watched all four parts of the spiel - a wedding procession, the joust, cooper's dance, and finally a rooster crowing.
Looking around at the other grand buildings of the square, it was hard to imagine that they were all rebuilt after 1945. Unlike other German cities, in Munich bombed buildings were rebuilt to resemble the originals.

Right at the top of the New Townhouse is the Munchner  Kindl -a mini monk with outstretched arms, with a book in one hand. This is the symbol of Munich.

Discovering Munich is such a treat because there are so many beautiful surprises awaiting you. As we strolled through the pedestrian heart we arrived at the Viktualienmarkt. This is a daily market with many produce stands as well as other specialty foods like cheeses, olives, baked goods, wines, etc.

Wandering along bustling pedestrianized Sendlingerstrasse you come across an eye catching baroque building. It's the Assam Church, built by the Assam brothers who were architects. They built this as an advertisement for their skills.

 We had researched vegetarian restaurants before our Munich arrival and made reservations at Prinz Myschkin. According to one website this was Germany's top vegetarian restaurant. Cookies Cream in Berlin was number 2. After our unbelievably great experience at Cookies Cream, we had super high expectations for Prinz Myshkin. But, almost as soon as we were seated I suspected it wouldn't match the quality of the trio of Berlin vegetarian restaurants we had sampled. First of all, it was huge and so was the menu. The menu, while interesting with quite an international range, was the same year round, which meant a lack of emphasis on seasonal stuff. But the interior certainly was elegant, with a contemporary ambience, heightened by art pieces with bold colors. The dishes we sampled were disappointing after Berlin's vegetarian cuisine scene which featured immense creativity and skillful seasoning and presentation. Oh well! Most interesting to me was to observe how the locals lingered over their meals and seemed to thoroughly enjoy hanging out with their companions. Long after all the tables were cleared, the restaurant was still practically full. People sipped digestives or espresso and engaged in chatter as if they were in their living rooms. What a contrast to our restaurant meals which tend to be hurried.

From our apartment it was just a few minutes walk to the Isar River. From the bridge, looking back in the direction of our apartment, you see the towers of a nearby church and lots of green shrubbery and low trees lining the banks. Along the bank on the opposite side there are green spaces and a cycle lane that follows the river for many miles. Quite amazing to be in a major city, but escape to peaceful nature so easily. To enter the Altstadt from here we walked past the Deutsche Museum which is on an island in the river. Then we came to the Isartor, one of four old gates through which you enter the old town. Quite charming. I really loved the human scale of Munich.

We spent a pleasant Sunday at Munich's top 3 art museums - the Alte Pinakothek, the Neue Pinakothek, and the Pinakothek der Moderne. The Alte Pinakthek was undergoing renovations so much of it was closed. The first painting we saw was  Hieronymous Bosch's Last Judgement (1506 - 1508) which set the stage for a dream-like day. Like when you go to a movie and the opening scenes are so intoxicating you sit back and prepare for a most entertaining 90 minutes. Gazing at Last Judgement it  was impossible to believe that this rather contemporary, abstract piece was from medieval times. I realize this is not a good photo, but the point was to preserve this very special moment. We journeyed through Europe's great art from the 14th to the 20th centuries, and became familiar with the works of famous German artists. Starting with the Old Masters we followed the transition from medieval to modern art. Afterwards A good selection of works by the expressionists, Max Beckman and Paul Klee, boosted my art education. There was a special exhibit of works by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner which I appreciated being exposed to.

At each museum, after dutifully taking in the works of Dutch, Flemish, and German artists, we were always rewarded at the end by a few "crowd pleasers" - the French Impressionists, van Gogh, the Surrealists, Picasso, Kandinsky, etc.

The famous Hofbrauhaus with its huge beer halls was ridiculously loud and crowded. We wandered around looking for a suitable spot out of the 5000 seats with every intention to do what every tourist in Munich was supposed to do. But when we realized the smallest sized beer we could get was a liter, we had the perfect excuse to escape the rowdiness and seek out a more peaceful beer garden. Leaving the Hofbrauhaus we entered the Platzl, Munich's medieval heart. This whole area was flattened in the 2nd World War. I reminded myself of that fact as we walked past the bustling cafés and restaurants.

We ended up having our beer at the Viktualienmarkt. Local breweries take turns to sell here, at this market, and a board advertises which ones are available. Didn't make any difference to us. All the Bavarian beer I'd had was fantastic, and so was this.











I climbed up the 306 steps to the spire of St. Peter's Church and was rewarded by terrific views of Munich. It was interesting to see the Bavarian Alps which were surprisingly so close to the city.

The Residenz was the Wittelsbachs downtown palace.

Outside the grand buildings there are beautiful formal gardens which you enter through an arcade. Along the walls of the arcade are murals which tell the history of Bavaria from 1155 to 1688. I spent quite an entertaining morning examining these murals and then wandering around the gardens.

I didn't go inside the Residenz which houses a pretty good museum. Just looking at the grand building and grounds from the outside was quite impressive. What did not come as a surprise to me was that this palace was modeled after the Medici's Pitti Palace in Florence (so was the palace at the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris).

We spent our last hours in Munich at the English Tea Gardens. My experience this time, though utterly pleasant, was very different to 20 years ago. This time I saw a different part of the Eisbach where youngsters were honing their surfing skills. The area around the Chinese Tower was pretty sedate. We found a bench in the shade with a great view of the lake. A perfect place - peaceful and lovely - to catch up on some reading ... Then, a while later we wandered up to the Seehaus restaurant for dinner. The setting was quite special with lake views and the greenery of the park. The menu was special too. I had chanterelle dumplings in a white sauce and Daryl had a plate of grilled vegetables. Bavarian beer went down perfectly with this fine meal. The sun was low in the sky and it was time to say good-bye to Munich. We had to board a night flight to London.

Heidelberg - July 2014

Every morning for the two weeks I was in Germany, I'd wake up and think, "I like this country. A lot". I loved the attention devoted to dedicated cycle lanes separated from both automobile traffic and pedestrians. I loved seeing the honor system at work, especially with public transportation. There are no barriers and no turnstiles, but everyone has a ticket because they understand that the honor system can only work in an honest culture. Clean cities, excellent mass transit, a high tolerance of the English language, decent beer, blankets provided at beer gardens in case it got chilly, and a fine food scene (in Berlin, world class cuisine). So, of course, we had a very satisfying two weeks in Germany.

After the seductive buzz of Berlin, we found ourselves blinking in disbelief at the "can this be real?" beauty of Heidelberg. Just take a look at that picture. 

A high speed ICE train allowed us to experience one of the great marvels of the 20th century (still making its way to California, hopefully before another century passes) and deposited us in Heidelberg on a blistering July Sunday afternoon. Our apartment was a quick walk from the train station, in the Bergheim neighborhood, which had a relatively peaceful, suburban air about it. We quickly unpacked and then headed straight for the old town (Altstadt). What a pleasant walk it turned out to be. One that will stay in my mind for a long time. The River Neckar bisects the city and flanking its banks are attractive buildings. Framed by green mountains, with a fairy tale castle looming over the city, Heidelberg is blessed with a serious "wow" factor! As we meandered through buildings and parks parallel to the river, I said to Daryl I could easily imagine spending a month of summer vacation here. In fact, an academic quarter of Sabbatical would be even better. The prospect of a full week in this city thrilled me.

In Heidelberg we had quite a change of pace from Berlin. Daryl was here to do some heavy duty math with his colleagues at the university, and I saw this as an opportunity to catch up with my reading and writing. So we very quickly settled into a routine for the week. After breakfast Daryl dashed off to the university and I stayed at home. When I needed a break I either strolled over to a nearby café or hopped on a tram or bus to the Old Town. In the late afternoon I did some food shopping and then made simple meals which we ate as soon as Daryl returned. After dinner there were still several hours of daylight and we took advantage of this by going on long, long walks exploring the many interesting and beautiful parts of this city. We ended the day at a beer garden where we sampled the local brews and experienced German night life in midsummer.

Our apartment was on the 3rd floor of the middle apartment building with balconies. The owner's tasteful sense of style made this spacious apartment quite a satisfying base. Thank goodness! It rained for much of the week while we were there, so being stuck indoors was not a problem for me at all. I relished the time to read and write, without the pressure to be a tourist. A travel card allowed me to hop on a tram or bus whenever I felt like going out into the world. I made a daily trip to the food market, a most entertaining place, so that we could have healthy vegetarian meals.

This medieval castle inhabited by the Wittelbach dynasty for over 400 hundred years is Heidelberg's most famous landmark - Heidelberger Schloss - and the main reason tourists come to the city. It sits above the Old Town and is visible from everywhere. I took a funicular up here and enjoyed walking around the ruins, and the very lovely gardens, dodging droves of tourists, many from Asia. The world's biggest wine barrel resides in a cellar here. I sampled some wine - semi sweet and refreshing, served with an ice cube - that is still produced here.

Wandering along the two kilometer pedestrianized stretch of road into the Altstadt is the traditional way to get to know Heidleberg. On the Sunday that we arrived the place was flooded with tourists. Cafes and bars were chock-a-block and the squares were very active. At Universitiplatz there was an African market on. Numerous booths carried African clothes, musical instruments, and crafts. Drumming and music added to the festive air. All over the Old Town the city throbbed - but in a considerably scaled down way to Berlin. It was great fun to take in the fairy tale like architecture of the city and study dinner menus. As the light faded, so did the crowds. This came as a surprise to me. In Berlin, the opposite happened.

The main square - Marktplatz - toward the end of the Old Town, is a perfect place to enjoy a drink. It's at the foot of the castle and surrounded by attractive buidlings like the townhouse.. There's a pretty fountain in the middle with a statue of the Madonna. The numerous outdoor cafés create a pleasant summer buzz. We had nightcaps - Schnapps for me - here on our last evening.

After surveying the limited restaurant options for us on the day we arrived, we found a Middle Eastern place called Falafel. A platter for two had a yummy combination of dips, veggies, and falafel. We pigged out on this satisfying meal right in front of the stunning 12th century Peterskirche, the oldest church in Heidelberg.

During our week in Heidelberg we had most of our dinners at home. This gave us the opportunity to sample the goodies at the food markets and bakeries. Loaves of hearty, healthy bread studded with seeds feature prominently in bakeries. And bakeries were ubiquitous. A few excellent ones were around the corner from our apartment. This meant fresh breakfast pastries were a little too easily accessible!

I was delighted to see chanterelle mushrooms at the grocery store quite inexpensively priced. Back home in Santa Barbara, due to a few drought years, we have been deprived of these wild mushrooms. So I gave myself full permission to overdo it, i.e. buy chanterelles daily!

The food stores were well stocked for vegetarian customers. There were lots of soy products like schnitzel and sausages, so it was pretty easy to prepare simple dinners. Adding a salad and green vegetables to sautéed chanterelles and a soy "meat", with wholegrain bread and dry Riesling made for reasonable meals. Since we didn't have much in the way of seasonings, and we were aiming for quick meals, we were fine with the blandness. In other words NOBODY complained. Nobody dared complain! But, hey, the local Riesling - crisp, a little dry, with just the perfect level of fruitiness - made up for any shortcomings.

Every evening after dinner, we took long walks along the river. A large green space on the north side was quite the social hub of the city. We strolled across the soft grass, sniffing the sweet, moist air, enjoying its mildness, and mingled with locals engaged in various summer activities. People throwing frisbees, sunbathing, picnicking, kids playing in the water-park, and of course, a strategically situated beer garden so that parents could relax with a drink while their kids played on nearby equipment.

One evening we hiked up the Philosopher's Walk. The sky was a friendly blue and the air temperature at 7:00 PM was perfect. The trail started out in a very upscale neighborhood (Neuenheim), then continued along the slopes of a mountain. Higher and higher we trekked and the city views stunned us in direct proportion. Along the way we saw a little garden with colorful flowers. Sitting here, in this peaceful refuge, surrounded by sweet scents and brightness, with splendid views of a beautiful river, a stunning bridge, attractive architecture, and the majestic castle, wouldn't you expect great philosophic ideas to emanate?
We could have continued on the trail all the way to the top of the mountain, but we turned onto the very windy trail that took us down to the Old Bridge. From the bridge we descended on the steps down to the river. Back on the north side, but near the Old Bridge, the views in front of us were the prettiest yet of the city.

There was such an air of romance right at that moment. At 9:00 PM it was still light, people were up and about either standing on the Old Bridge taking photos, or strolling hand in hand along the river, or just chatting and laughing. The air was still ... and sweet. We wandered over to the beer garden in the park beside the river and smugly drank some well deserved Heidelberg beer. How many miles had we just walked?

Earlier in the week when I went to a wine shop for a decent local  Riesling, I learned about pear schnapps. Schnapps is a local digestif and comes in a few different fruit flavors, pear being the most traditional. I loved it. I loved that it was dry, yet the pear flavor was distinctive. What a perfect nightcap to end each wonderful day of that week!

And coincidentally, what a perfect metaphor for the ending of this blog.