16 January 2008

A Dose of South Indian Culture

Cochin seems like a city that takes culture seriously. You see a number of fine arts galleries, dance schools, and every evening you can find classical music, Kathakali, or some other cultural event. Kathakali, a Keralan art form, is a dance dramatising a play or story from the Indian scriptures like the Ramayana. So yesterday I got a ticket and attended a performance. I was surprised when I entered the humble theatre to find tha the audience consisted solely of tourists. Oh well! Before the performance the audience gets to witness the performer putting on his make-up. The artist's painted face, crazy costumes, and elaborate headresses is a major part of the act. I found the dance itself a bit uninspiring. Eye and facial movements seem important to the expressing of the story. When it was over, as I walked away, I thought, hmmm interesting, but not anything to write home about. It was still early evening - 8:00 - si walked over to the temple near my hotel where a major festival ios going on. There's a big park area in front of the hotel which is festively decorated with lights. A stage is set up for nightly performances. Well, last night I got there in the middle of a Bharata Natyam performance. Boy, did I luck out! Bharata Natyam is a South Indian classical dance form - equivalent to ballet in many respects - where dancers dress in gorgeous costumes and play out a story from Hindu scriptures using intricate hand, neck, head, and leg movements.
I sat on the grass among the locals - the night was balmy - and let the talented dancers and wonderful classical Indian music transport me to heaven. I was completely spellbound. What graceful movements, and becauce I have a smattering knowledge of Indian mythology I even understood some of the dances. One was the courtship of Lord Krishna and Radha, his consort. I could have watched this all night.
I'll leave Cochin with many pleasant memories. Today I leave for Allepey, the headquarters of the backwater experience!

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