15 January 2008

Kerala - is this India?

If I were forced to live in India I would not be unhappy in Cochi. I find it very easy to walk around and explore. The roads are in fair condition and named so finding my bearings has not been a problem. This city has many parks, community halls, great restaurants that are clean and shiny, intersting shops. Yesterday I took the ferry to Fort Cochin, one of the islands that make up the city. Well, I was shocked when I got off the ferry. It was like entering another country. Fort Cochin drips with history going back to the East India spice trade. There are many colonial buildings built by the Portuguese, Dutch, and English, and these buildings are well maintained. Around the island are churches and a synogogue in a Jewish Quarter. Along Bazaar Road are merchants selling - you guessed it - spices! You could be back in the 16th century. But the 21st century is everywhere on this island: a spotless 24 hour Internet cafe, cafes selling espresso drinks, gourmet restaurants, Ayurvedic massage places, and lots of fine hotels. It looks a bit like a European resort wtih many, many western travelers all over the island. Along the water there are fishing boats and fisherman selling their catch.
You should only see Fort Cochin after you've seen a fair bit of India. Then it comes as a surprise. Personally I prefer the mainland. This is where the real folks live and work and it's far more interesting. You can enjoy India without the hassles of loud traffic, pollution, mounds of trash, etc. I haven't seen a single cow in Cochin!

This morning I had breakfast at a place called India Coffee House. This is a chain of cafes spread around Kerala and it's a worker's co-operative outfit. What I loved was that it was full of locals - well dressed, probably on their way to their office jobs - and it good, strong coffee. I looked around to see what the locals ate for breakfast. Here in Kerala it seems like people eat some type of bread/starch product (porota, puri, putu, or apam) with a subjee or curry. I had an omelette and toast. Great way to start the day!

Another cool thing about this city is that I've been able to talk to locals on an
equal footing. I don't stand out and people only realize I'm foreign when they talk to me in Malayalam and I give them a confused look. Then when I say something they
know I'm from a foreign country, and this then leads to conversation. It's great.

Well, ciao for now!

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